Perfume Directory

Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe (2000)
by Cartier


Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe information

Year of Launch2000
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 56 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerMark Buxton

About Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe

Based on Pasha, with an empasis on the mint. Very refreshing and stimulating.

Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe fragrance notes

Reviews of Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe

The crossover from the 90's into the 2000's was an interesting time, since IFRA regulations were only just beginning to strangle creativity and give large chemical firms like IFF or Givaudan an unchecked monopoly on perfume source materials, so the reaction from large designers was to "party like it's 1999" because quite frankly, it was. In just another decade's time, more regulations in place would assure that everything made below a certain price threshold was chock full of the same 6 or so aromachemicals and came in one of only 3 or 4 primary flavors to assure positive consumer testing, especially in the men's perfume market where tastes were generally narrower and increasingly focused on extroversion or mass-appeal from the start. Before that however, every stop was pulled and every trick tried to find the next "big thing" as aquatics became passé for the moment and fresh fougères (to some "fauxgères") wore out their welcome, making possible the creation of interesting flankers like Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe by Cartier (2000). This scent is a fractioning of three main notes from the full composition of the original Pasha de Cartier (1992) penned by Jacques Cavallier, making this flanker a study on the mint, patchouli, and green cardamom found in the original scent. Mark Buxton did the perfuming on this number, in his days working for designers and upstarts before he became something of a callgirl to ultra high-end luxury perfume outfits, working only with conspicuous consumption brands for the social elite like House of Sillage, Phuong Dang, Parfums d'Elmar, or his own limited-run eponymous marquee. Buxton does a good job here, and something like this might even be considered niche these days, plus is obviously discontinued for perhaps that very reason.

The opening of Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe is going to be mint (spearmint), but a bit of lavender from the original, caraway seed, eucalyptus, and mandarin orange sweeten things up and finesse the mint just a tad. Pasha Fraicheur Menthe is still a fougère where it counts, but runs closer to a shaving-style fougère like that found in Skin Bracer by Mennen (1931) or Proraso Dopobarba (1948), but with extra spices and patchouli to round things out in ways those don't. I would imagine the opening gives that away but once the heart of coriander, rosewood, and green cardamom start, you realize that this is indeed just a heftier version of those wet-shaving staples, with the spices acting like how starch is used to thicken soup stock. The base is focused on the aforementioned patchouli, but sandalwood, oakmoss, labdanum, and a pinch of tonka complete the fougère accord by emerging in the end, making Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe feel like a green twist on the original with more subtle projection after the opening blast, and a greater emphasis on clean without coming across too aqueous or laundry-like. If you wanted a designer-quality Skin Bracer with less powder in the finish and no menthol overdose, Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe is your ticket to ride, but you sacrifice a bit of performance on the extroversion side of things even if skin tenacity and sillage are about the same. Wear time of Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe is almost year round because the mint jives with hot weather while the spices and oriental components click with cooler seasons, but is about as casual of a wear as the actual aftershaves after which it is seemingly patterned.

I'd reckon that Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe made a huge splash at the time it was released, when green was briefly back on top thanks to scents like Gucci Envy for Men (1998), Calvin Klein Contradiction for Men (1999), Jacomo Aura for Men (2000), and Lucky You for Men by Lucky Brand Jeans (2000), staying in fashion until stuff like Cartier's own Eau de Cartier Concentrée (2002), Calvin Klein Truth Men (2002), and Versace Jeans Couture Men (2002) started pulling more-abstract aromachemical elements into the green scene, thinning out then folding back in with aquatics by the end of the 2000's. By that point, Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe's moment in the sun had passed and it was discontinued, although Mathilde Laurent continued toying with mint as a note in men's perfume when she was made house perfumer by Cartier, releasing Cartier Roadster (2008) like a spiritual successor at a time when a composition like that would be deemed bizarre. In some ways, this flanker (along with several others) maintained attention on the brand, filling a gap and catering to evolving tastes, giving Cartier time to plot their next big move between the success of Pasha and Cartier Déclaration (1998), which is all any flanker is meant to do unless it overshadows the pillar release. I wouldn't pay a mint for this (pun intended), but I concede its affable and well-constructed "dad's aftershave" nature. It's a shame something this easy-going and likeable wasn't liked enough to stay on the books for good. Thumbs up.
02nd April, 2020
More of a skin scent than typical loud men's fragrance. Still, I like how this flanker capitalizes on the mint note of the original Pasha, with a slightly musky evenness to it that I find nice. I bought mine for a decent price about ten years ago; now, it commands some CRAZY prices online!!
15th December, 2016
Tested over 3 days from a 2ml sample.
Light, fresh opening. To be honest I was expecting more obvious mint, whereas here the dominant note is lavender. This was a disappointment for me, as I've long been in search of a stunning mint fragrance, and I had been hoping this would be "the one": it isn't. Having said that it's a pleasant, elegant, barbershop (due to the lavender) scent with a classy feel to it.
The problem for me is that I was after something different and outstanding. This is very expensive stuff, so for me it needs to stand out to justify the price. A good example of a pricy scent with mint that I believe stands up for itself and it's price is Russian Tea by Masque. Pasha FM is like a lot of generic lavender-based male fragrances from around the turn of the century, with that unmistakable sort of watery, metallic after taste. I think someone likened it to Hypnose; I agree. For a classy lavender I'd prefer something like Azzarro, which I already own.
So, nice as it goes for a safe, fresh summery daytime office scent go for a nice, smart, conservative guy, but not remarkable, and not worth the price tag, in my humble opinion.
Sillage and longevity both soft to moderate.
My search for the perfect mint continues.....
January 2016
04th January, 2016
bFlay Show all reviews
United States
Opens with a sinus blasting mint that is arctic in its coolness and far too abrasive for a personal scent. After several minutes, a slight orange oil bitterness comes forward followed quickly by an herbal note that is more green salad than clean cologne. This is basically an obnoxious loudfragrance that breaks down to oily herbs and mint then disipates to almost nothing (except mint) within an hour. Bad mix of notes, badly formulated.
28th January, 2015
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The opening of coriander, mint, labdanum and mandarin is gently freshening and warm, with lavender and an extremely smooth and soft patchouli added in the drydown. Delightful. A gentle green mossy component signals the begin of the base, where a lovely exotic wood aroma is added. Very soft, smooth with the mint adding subtle freshness. Less spicy than the original, this is - not unusual for Cartier - another case where I prefer the flanker to the original. Good silage and very good projection, with over ten hours of longevity. Great for warmer days in autumn.
14th May, 2014
Pasha Fraîcheur Menthe is a lovely fragrance. I love the mint and citrus in the beginning. This is the only mint based cologne that I own. It is sophisticated and elegant like the original Pasha. It can be worn both day and night. Very nice.
25th February, 2014

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