Perfume Directory

R de Capucci (1986)
by Roberto Capucci


R de Capucci information

Year of Launch1986
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 76 votes)

People and companies

HouseRoberto Capucci
Parent CompanyWeruska & Joel

About R de Capucci

R de Capucci is a masculine fragrance by Roberto Capucci. The scent was launched in 1986

R de Capucci fragrance notes

Reviews of R de Capucci

Roberto Capucci is an Italian designer famous for his "sculpted" dresses throughout the mid-to-late 20th century. His fragrances arrived in the 60's and he's an older presence in the fashion world, but like Gianfranco Ferré or Nicola Trussardi, was relatively small-time compared to the big Italian houses such as Armani, Gucci, and eventually even Versace. Also like those other Italian houses, his early masculines tried to capture the Italian countryside in their composition, with citrus, herbs, mosses, and leathers, giving them acute warm weather usability but not much else. R de Capucci (1986) is the third masculine from the house following Capucci Pour Homme (1967) and Punjab (1979), but despite it's release year, really feels older than it is, which might be part of it's relative obscurity. R de Capucci is a dry herbal chypre that vintage masculine collectors seem to go ga-ga for on this forum, but after spending some time with it, I feel much of this price-spiking forum hype is the usual "The harder it is to acquire = the better it smells" self-brainwash, which shares a common thread with niche obsession that will call the most-expensive representation of a given style superior to it's peers. It all just leads back to sociological craving for exclusivity us Human beings seem to have, because it makes us feel validated and special. R de Capucci is good, but there's a heck of a lot like it in this vein, some examples with chypre bases, and some more along fougère lines, but most of them already out long before this released. People like to compare this often to Chanel Antaeus (1981), but outside of a really faint note correlation, there isn't a lot of similarity to my nose. R de Capucci isn't virile or unapologetically macho, being relaxed with it's aromatics and moss approach. R de Capucci seems to follow a line started with Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme (1971), and Balenciaga Ho Hang (1971), a line of succession involving heavily-herbes citrus chypres or fougères.

This line followed through with obscure entries like Avon Blend 7 (1973), Bogart Eau de Toilette Pour Homme (1975), Dunhill Blend 30 (1978), and crossed paths with Azzaro Pour Homme (1978) and Van Cleef & Arpels Pour Homme (1978), one being more anise-led fougère, and one being more leather and orris chypre. Un Homme Charles Jourdan (1979) seems to be an extremely close connective tissue to R de Capucci, since it shares the herbs and lemon but borrows Azzaro's anise. Aramis Tuscany Per Uomo (1984) and the concurrently-released Gianfranco Ferré for Man (1986) went further with citrus, but the latter is basically kissing cousins with R de Capucci in the dry down. It's a symptom of the dry aromatic style to smell like so many others within that style, not too altogether different from the later aquatics which can also be hard to tell apart, but R de Capucci carves it's own niche. Amalfi lemon, petitgrain, and bergamot open this, with kitchen herbs like sage, basil, and thyme putting us on a really green path to the floral heart. Carnation, jasmine, rose, and aldehydes are dessicated by that dry citric green top and a leather note in the middle, but then more green comes in the form of vetiver in the base. Patchouli, amber, and musk do a number of rounding and smoothing tricks, but like the aforementioned Gianfranco Ferré, oakmoss soon becomes the star of the finish. Like so many things made this way, oakmoss is heavy-handed here and R de Capucci breaks down into primarily an oakmoss scent, which is a trick it and it's brood learned from Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955) decades before. Nearly-naked oakmoss finishes are also of consideration when deciding if you should hunt this, because it's something of an acquired taste that many do not acquire anymore, and thus don't appreciate, thanks to IFRA. I like a fat oakmoss bottom end, but it might be jarring to some, so try a mini before going Indiana Jones on getting a full bottle.

The whole point of R de Capucci is to be an extremely green and bone-dry take on the Italian aromatic gentleman's cologne. Gucci Nobile (1988) seems to take this in a sweeter fougère direction for one final stab, but like comparisons made to Antaeus, saying R de Capucci is close to Nobile doesn't hold much water. In conclusion, R de Capucci is a good aromatic leather chypre, but that's just all it is: a good aromatic chypre. Like so many other hype monsters worshipped by vintage fans, and consequently used as vehicles by eBay sellers to fleece the unsuspecting readers of their reviews in ever-increasing amount, it just fails to meet those expectations, but it does not fail as a quality fragrance when separated from that zeitgeist. I can recommend R de Capucci for fans of anything listed above, but if you're stateside, this one is passable unless you're okay with international shipping or exorbitant prices from domestic sellers until this style of masculine maybe becomes relevant again and they start producing more with that fancy "fractured" oakmoss which chemist firms claim to have devised. Good deals do happen, but much like Calvin by Calvin Klein (1981) or the aforementioned Gucci Nobile, this one's reputation is just the result of an online echo chamber that sellers monitor like brokers do the stock market, which can be said of a lot of things, not just fragrance. R de Capucci is an extremely serious wear, so I'd keep it to weekday office or casual weekend day use. Wear time is good and sillage acceptable, but like most aromatics in the Italian style, this is no powerhouse. One thing you won't have to worry about with R de Capucci is smelling like "that cologne guy". Thumbs up, with trepidation.
21st August, 2018
This is more like Gucci Nobile to me, which I only see mentioned once below, than Antaeus, which I see mentioned several times. I can see it as sort of a cross between the two, but it's reminding more of Nobile. I also agree with the comparison to Derby - I think it's closer to Derby than Antaeus. All four are great scents I enjoy, Antaeus most of all.

The comparison to delicious, revered classics speaks well for R de Capucci. It's right in the mix. Is Trussardi Uomo (original) another one that's similar?

Into the base of this, the top notes that reminded of Gucci Nobile are gone, and it's more in the Gianfranco Ferre for Man style. I think this one is better though.
18th July, 2018
Very much a winner, shares the beautiful chewy oakmoss bed of many of the classics, and very much to my nose in the same family as (in my collection), PPHomme (jammy, fruity), Macassar (intense,dark,woody), Maxim's (boulevardier,tobacco), Phileas (raw, soap, celery).
R goes the fresh route with a great citrusy opening seamlessly turning greener as it evolves melding with the flowers, moss and a really nice and comfortable tonka warmth toward the far dry down.In it's freshness it reminds me of Nobile which does it with lavender.
Excellent stuff!
03rd February, 2018 (last edited: 07th September, 2018)
Stardate 20180125:

House of Capucci is not talked about at basenotes or elsewhere. A shame cause they made good stuff.
Capucci PH (both versions), Punjab, Yendi and R de Capucci are all great fragrances and it is unfortunate that they get little airtime. Perhaps because they are discontinued and Italian.
R de Capucci is a fougerish leatherish chypre. The florals make up for the lack of lavender.
Capucci PH and R de Capucci share the leatherish chyprish aspect. But R is the happier, prettier, brighter and more wearable of the two siblings.
The florals blend well with citrus, moss and amber giving it a nice glow.
And then there is the Rose.
Get it while you can. A masterpiece.

25th January, 2018
Dry, herbal, mossy chypre from the 80s with a touch of Italian seasoning. Refined. Mossy. Did I say mossy? I liken it to one man show dialed back by half... and more mossy. It shall forever be associated with mr. duckfinder, in gratitude.
07th November, 2017
Genre: Chypre

R. de Capucci has a classical opening of citrus and aromatics with plenty of dry, powdery lavender. Next up is a very rounded sandalwood supported by toasty spices, including a distinct touch of nutmeg. There is a dry, edgy rose in the heart as well, its character sharpened by an angular bitter note that seems to emanate from the woods. Since there's quite a bit of powder in its composition, R. de Capucci might come off as stuffy and "perfumey" without this bitter edge. Instead, the scent registers as tough and uncompromising. It's no Yatagan, but it's certainly not trying to smell "pretty," either.

R. de Capucci's bitter note eventually reveals itself as a very sharp vetiver, which takes over for the rose as the woody accord's principal accent. The drydown arrives quickly, but it is extended and attractive. All traces of the floral and aromatic notes dissipate to leave the vetiver resting on a very mossy leather base. There is nothing remotely sweet in R. de Capucci, and the impression that it leaves is that of a particularly austere chypre.

If you like Yatagan but find it too confrontational for daily wear, it's worth seeking out R. de Capucci. It's just as dry and austere as the Caron, but less harsh and animalic. In fact, it's civilized enough to make a sophisticated office scent.
24th June, 2014

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