Perfume Directory

Sagamore (1985)
by Lancôme

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Sagamore information

Year of Launch1985
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 92 votes)

People and companies

HouseLancôme
PerfumerCalice Asancheyev-Becker
PerfumerPauline Zanoni
Parent CompanyL'Oréal Group

About Sagamore

Sagamore is a masculine fragrance by Lancôme. The scent was launched in 1985 and the fragrance was created by perfumers Pauline Zanoni and Calice Asancheyev-Becker

Sagamore fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Sagamore

If you can find some of this,in Vintage, at an acceptable price, grab it. Sagamore follows a similar path as Bois du Portugal, Nicolai New York (and Intense), Chanel Pour Monsieur. The bloom of the heart is a little softer and dry down is closest to 80's Vintage PM.
It runs a little warmer than all of these.
For me Pour Monsieur Vintage 80's and back edges out all the others by it's timelessness.
The others tend to be for the Older set.
07th July, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
*This is a review of original formula vintage Sagamore.

Sagamore opens with significant aromatic lavender, infused with just a touch of light sanitized jasmine before moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart, the lavender vacates as a green geranium tinged rose and carnation floral tandem takes the fore with trace hints of the sanitized jasmine remaining in faint support, joined by mossy-green oakmoss rising from the base. During the late dry-down the composition turns decidedly green as the florals vacate, leaving the oakmoss to take claim as the focus through the finish with remnants of the sharp, green geranium to add a balancing additional lighter green touch. Projection is average but longevity excellent at well over 12 hours on skin.

Sagamore (vintage) has built a legion of fans over the years, and when coupled with its mid-80s release a blind buy seemed a relatively low risk endeavor. Now wearing the composition many times over on skin, the assumed low-risk has proved true - Sagamore is a winner. There are a lot of winners from the great 80s (my favorite decade for perfumery), so the *real* question is whether Sagamore stands out from the already strong field of its 80s peers, and that is much less of a "sure thing." The composition does not particularly smell complex or innovative to this writer... It is a well-crafted classically structured green aromatic all the way with a significant floral heart. Indeed the rose and carnation florals found in the composition's heart are probably the best thing about it, with the oakmoss and geranium keeping the "green" motif throughout. Once the florals vacate, the late dry-down smells good, but far from superior to so many others of its time. The bottom line is the $120+ per 50 ml bottle on the aftermarket original formula Sagamore impresses, but the "very good" 3.5 stars out of 5 rated composition doesn't really distinguish itself from its generally excellent peer group except in its higher cost, yielding a somewhat hesitant but positive recommendation to vintage 80s perfume lovers.
24th May, 2020
In the first instance it feels a bit odd. Tangy, sharp, even vinegary. It's a strange spicy smell and not quite right. But after a few minutes the plan is revealed.

Sagamore is a collection of spices, warm herbs, evergreen resins and civet, and they combine into a red grubby funk of bay rum and bodies - which anyone who's smelled Cuba will recognise. But unlike John Stephens' 2002 creation, Sagamore isn't content with the whiff of a back street shebeen, it doubles back from the West Indies to an oriental boudoir. And here, Sagamore is closer to Nathalie Feisthauer's Havana of 1994.

This manouver, from bitter to sweet and hard to soft, was originally done by Shalimar, but in that case the relative weights of spicy animalic head and oriental body were reversed. But modern versions of Shalimar don't do this any more - so great was the animal pong of the vintage it has now been cleaned up; something which it's down to these current scents to preserve.

Another possible reason for Guerlain's caution can be seen in the transitional phase, when Sagamore moves from the raunchy red spice to its oriental support. During this time all the spice-fuelled audacity is lost and the profile threatens to sink into a shapeless quicksand of vanillic balsam. But it comes through that, and when it does the reveal is sudden, and wonderful; like rum soaked pirates breaking through a Dead Man's Chest and gazing on the burnished treasure at their feet.

But of course, like buried treasure around pirates it doesn't last long and the effect soon fades into the sweet and musky oriental. This only happened once I tried wearing Sagamore; on paper and skin it doesn't really bloom, and isn't that good.


Although I've only got Havana in the aftershave, I think it's probably fair to say that it's a variation of the theme of Sagamore : spicy bay rum and raunchy red funk, set on a soft balsamic ground; and also, you could say, Cuba is a slimmed down version - without the oriental.

Whether new Sagamore is the same as the brown bottle vintage, I can't say. So it may not be worth chasing it down, unless of course Havana and Cuba are all time favourites in your collection, and drink and the devil have done for the rest...

4*
23rd April, 2020
Note: Review is of the 'current' version.

I haven't tried the vintage version of Sagamore, but based on reviews and comments I have some idea of what it can be like. The version of Sagamore I have tried from my sample is the re-release. This is completely at odds with descriptions of the vintage I've read. Even if a perfume is stripped of oakmoss, there remains the skeleton essence - as is evident in the overwhelming majority of reformulations. Sagamore smells completely different, with vague, soft spices and florals (jasmine) over an indistinctive base of woods and musk. It is what I imagine Le 3me Homme de Caron would smell like if diluted to 40% and considerably cheapened. Both sillage and duration are sub par.

2/5
30th January, 2019
Lovable precursor to Beyond Paradise and Zanzibar.

Lancome's Sagamore comes off as a dewey, bamboo-like iteration of a citrus and sandalwood fragrance. It is slightly grassy like Japanese green tea and blobby and indistinct in texture in the way that over-blended mall counter scents from back in the day such as the men's Lauder line are. It smells out of focus, if that makes any sense. This is not a dynamic juice for extroverts and night club hopefuls, but rather a comfortable, contemplative creation for taking one's day slowly. I can't help but wonder if CK Truth for Men was intended to be a retelling of the same tale using modern ingredients?

This one isn't likely to wow anybody but if you're looking for a watercolor sandalwood that smells vaguely of melon you will be quite pleased with it.
04th October, 2018
The version of Sagamore I'm sampling (which I think is vintage, but not original) is predominantly an oak moss fragrance, in the same way vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur is. This might be a slightly swampier oak moss than Chanel Pour Monsieur, but hardly different. I'm not sure I could tell this apart from Chanel Pour Monsieur.

I might have a sample of Chanel Pour Monsieur labeled as Sagamore. I'm certainly not smelling any benzoin, and the references to Tiffany for Men make no sense to me.
19th July, 2018

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