Perfume Directory

Ungaro pour L'Homme II (1992)
by Ungaro


Ungaro pour L'Homme II information

Year of Launch1992
Average Rating
(based on 174 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerFrançois Demachy
Parent CompanyFerragamo Group
Parent Company at launchWertheimer > Chanel

About Ungaro pour L'Homme II

Ungaro pour L'Homme II is a masculine fragrance by Ungaro. The scent was launched in 1992 and the fragrance was created by perfumer François Demachy

Reviews of Ungaro pour L'Homme II

Ungaro pour L'Homme II (1992) is the second of three masculine fragrances created by Wertheimer for Emanuel Ungaro, tapping Chanel house perfumer Jacques Polge and then director of reaseach and development for Wertheimer François Demachy. The first of the three was the aptly-named Ungaro pour L'Homme I (1991), a fragrance that came across like a past-meets-future dandy rose chypre that was both darkly saturnine and contradictingly fresh at the same time. Ungaro pour L'Homme II is the least-celebrated of the three, but also the second most-expensive of the triptych because it was discontinued immediately following Wertheimer's severance with Ungaro, while Ungaro pour L'Homme III (1993) had enough sales to convince Ferragamo Group to re-orchestrate it to the best of their abilities and continue selling it under license like it did Salvatore Ferragamo pour Homme (1999). Ungaro pour L'Homme I contained lavender in a brief appearance as a top note, but Ungaro pour L'Homme II is all about that lavender, presenting itself as a musky turn-of-the-century early fougère exercise similar to Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904), but modernized with Demachy's touch in the slightest of ways according to the standards of the 90's. Civet plays a key role in this as does patchouli, which also makes Ungaro pour L'Homme II draw some comparison's to Mouchoir de Monsieur's matriarch, Guerlain Jicky (1889), plus a few key others like Caron Pour Un Homme (1934) prior to re-orchestration under the Fraysse family, or Avon for Men (1949) in cologne configuration. There isn't much to say about Ungaro pour L'Homme II as there is the first one, mostly because the hype isn't there, and it is the most anachronistic of the trio.

The opening is lemon, bergamot, orange, lavender, coriander, neroli, and basil all "skanked up" by that opening touch of civet. The civet in Ungaro pour L'Homme II is not on the fecal levels of potency as it is in classic Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur, being more like the modern homage to it like Cartier Déclaration (1998) is to Eau d'Hermès (1951). The civet blends in faster to the composition here than it does in those antique Guerlains, smoothing and warming the lavender, which is then joined by a kitchen sink of florals like jasmine, rose, carnation, and geranium. This ode to Guerlain complexity continues with a touch of soapy orris and sharp black pepper to add that modern "pop" which sets it apart from the dense opacity of the Guerlains. The Chanel/Wertheimer proxy for Guerlinade then comes on, which I guess we could jokingly call "Werthinade" or "Polginade", but it shares some similarities to Chanel pour Monsieur Eau de Toilette Concentrée (1989) and Tiffany for Men (1989), which Polge also developed. Amber, sandalwood, tonka, oakmoss, vanilla, benzoin, cedar, patchouli, you name it, the gang is all here in textbook fashion. Ungaro pour L'Homme II could compete with Aigner Super Fragrance for Men (1978), Creed Bois du Portugal (1987), Nicolaï New-York (1989) or Guerlain's own Héritage (1992) in the semi-oriental dry down department for this reason. Wear time is over 10 hours, with good sillage and projection for half of it, plus wears formally enough for black tie use in cooler months, if you don't mind the throwback musk elements which really make this one challenging in ways Ungaro pour L'Homme I wasn't. I can also see why Ungaro pour L'Homme II doesn't get as much talk, and that's because it's far more conventional despite the larger animalic component, so it doesn't stir up opinions as much.

Exploring Ungaro pour L'Homme II is still an expensive proposition, even if not quite as bad compared to its older brother, and with literally no hype to taint your initial reaction, is easier to get a grasp on with first impressions. I guess sometimes social psychology plays a bigger role in enjoying fragrance than we like to admit, because without the echo chamber of "lost masterpiecers" and "Jesus juicers" building Ungaro pour L'Homme II up to a near-religious experience, and with the relatively greater availability (albeit still fairly extortionate in pricing) of the stuff in the aftermarket, one can just sorta of go on cruise control when approaching it and let the nose-brain do most of the talking. My nose-brain says that Ungaro pour L'Homme II is even less essential to own than Ungaro pour L'Homme I, because while the first one has a few less-rare but still discontinued alternatives, this one has many readily-available options which can replace it, several of which were contemporary releases to it. While it is true that Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur as also become something of a rare bird (although historically it always has been), Jicky is still a dime a dozen in the gray market if you need your lavender and civet fix. The dry down of Ungaro pour L'Homme II can also be found in pretty much anything I mentioned above, all of which are still produced save the Aigner. All in all, the middle brother of this trio of artistic revisionist history exercises in men's perfume is the least interesting one, but also the richest and most complex of the lot, inadvertently being a commentary on the eventual state of luxury perfume in years to follow. Thumbs up.
25th January, 2021 (last edited: 26th January, 2021)
bokaba Show all reviews
United States
Ungaro II is a bright, hesperidic chypre with a powdery/musky drydown very similar to vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur EDT. Their s some civet in here that you can smell at first whiff, but it is not too pronounced with a conservative application. The civet here reminds me a genuine tincture to some extent. It smells a bit of bad breath and sweaty scalp like the real thing. I would recommend this as on par with Chanel pour Monsieur and it has better longevity.
04th October, 2020
The top is indeed very reminiscent of Jicky with the lavander,louche civet and vanilla, soon however spices and woods pulls it closer and closer toward oriental territory and away from Jicky's classic (and perhaps seminal) fougere accord and gently but surely toward woody spicy scents such as Chanel PMC, Versace l'Homme, Tiffany PM but where the civet and lavander still stay primarily showcased

Jicky plus wonderfull Cedar and spices makes for a great perfume if not particularly showy initially, it took me a few wears to realize how superlative it actually is.
05th August, 2020

I have 2 backup bottles of the vintage it's that good...
01st November, 2018 (last edited: 04th February, 2019)
Incredibly smooth, animalic, old-style scent. If you like civet, this one is for you.
16th February, 2018
Stardate 20170927:

The second of the troika. Great fragrance. Somewhere between Chanel PMC and Jicky.
Dirty powdery floral. Quality stuff.
Has that Polge signature (you see it in Tiffany too). He may have a hand in it since Ungaro was owned by Chanel at the time of Ungaro II launch.
27th September, 2017

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Ungaro Pour L’Homme II 2.5 Oz

US • Buy it now: USD 90.00.

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