Perfume Directory

Rose de Nuit (1993)
by Serge Lutens


Rose de Nuit information

Year of Launch1993
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 120 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
PerfumerChristopher Sheldrake
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Rose de Nuit

Rose de Nuit is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 1993 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Christopher Sheldrake

Rose de Nuit fragrance notes

Reviews of Rose de Nuit

I adore this weird, wild scent! It smells like nothing I am familiar with, although it triggers distant memories of a rosy, leathery chypre from the golden, olden days, but one that is somehow leavened with something waxy and softening--almost as if you are smelling it through layers of muslin or a mummy's wrapping cloth. Thankfully it is far less bombastic than Knowing or L'arte di Gucci and contains none of their unending spikiness, either. This is a wondrously animalic apricot rose wearing expensive leather pants while desultorily placing somewhat wilted roses by their dead mother's crypt.

I must have a bell jar.
18th January, 2018 (last edited: 02nd November, 2018)
Notes: Turkish Rose, Musk, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Beeswax, Amber, Apricot.

Rose de Nuit is a musty, dusty, musky, dry, powdery, and rather dark rose. It is not a fresh living rose but more of a rose that has dried out in its vase. I mainly detect rose, of course, as well as musk and beeswax. The jasmine, amber, sandalwood, and apricot notes are lost on me. In fact, I cannot detect anything even remotely fruity in RdD which is too bad because I like apricot.

I detect a lot of roses in Jean Patou's Joy, but the roses in Joy are greener, fresher, more alive. If I place Joy on one end of the spectrum, I would place RdN at the opposite end of the spectrum. Mind you, my experience of rose-centric perfumes is limited, though. I recently purchased Lutens Fille en Berlin and will be interested to see how it compares to RdN. I also hope to eventually compare Guerlain Rose Barbare to RdN, too. I suspect the latter two will suit me better than RdN.

RdN is a well crafted rose perfume, but I have awarded it a generous 7 out of of 10 because I cannot imagine where I would wear this fragrance other than at home alone, and even then, I cannot imagine I would wear it often at home alone. It does not lend itself either to festive occasions, to religious services, to date nights, or to the office. Somehow I imagine King Tut's Tomb may have smelt like RdN whence Howard Carter first walked into the chamber. : )

I would not wish it to be a very fresh, just picked from the garden type of rose, but I probably would enjoy it much more if it were a bit more sweet and not so dusty and dry. I would like it to be more lush and voluptuous.

I do not generally assign fragrances to any particular age group, but I cannot imagine a young woman wearing RdN. To my mind, this is a fragrance for someone who is at least in her/his 40s or older.

Fragrance: 7/10

Projection: 5.5/10

Sillage: 5.5/10

Longevity: 7/10
31st October, 2017
A rich, dark rose soliflore.

I disagree with Tania Sanchez, who calls this a "rose chypre." It has been compared elsewhere in these reviews as being similar to true rose chypres, such as Coriandre, Perles de Lalique, etc., with their sharp, peppery green galbanums. I don't get that similarity at all.

There is amber supporting this dark rose, but the composition is not as complex as that of a chypre. To my nose, it is a straight-forward soliflore rose, very quiet and subdued, which is unusual for this house. I am used to Lutens as a power house, with strong oil concentrations, almost parfum strength, in their edp releases.

This is restrained and eminently wearable.
26th February, 2016
As a lover of animalic rose chypres, I had high hopes for this; I was already fantasizing about it becoming my mysterious and elegant signature scent, how I would pretend it was Nombre Noir. While it is beautiful, it is simply too quiet to be worth its $300 price tag. Perhaps if I could purchase it in Paris where Lutens bell jars are about $150 I would spring for it, but the import cost is obscene.
The reputed strangeness of Rose de Nuit is dependent on the wearer never having smelled an 80s rose chypre. If you are familiar with Montana, Coriandre, La Perla, La Nuit, Magie Noire, Paloma Picasso, Aromatics Elixir, Knowing, Aramis 900, even Agent Provocateur, Rose de Nuit will seem like a disappointingly quiet and short-lived version of those with an admittedly gorgeous silky texture and top-notch raw materials. If you are not, it will probably blow your mind as rose chypre accords did when I first smelled them. It is an exotic odor often termed "old lady" but framed with cool Lutens opulence and exclusivity that make it palatable and mysterious. It's like how someone who has never seen a truly out-there inscrutable art movie (Andrei Rublev, Persona, Melancholie der Engel) would have their minds blown by, say, It Follows. Rose chypres are shocking to modern noses because millennials, having grown up with no fragrance except the occasional calone or Iso E, simply can't comprehend someone choosing to smell like that.

Still, if I make my way to Paris, I may buy a bottle. The prospect of dumping it on copiously from a bell jar is appealing.
07th October, 2015
It is the opposite of a fresh rose, more of a musty (not, musky) rose, with a bit of sweet and woody notes thrown in.

It is interesting in the sense that this is a non-fresh rose but not a usual oud-rose or patchouli-rose combo. I kind of like it, but do not love it. It does not strike me as something I feel compelled to wear.

It is long lasting, but the projection is rather limited. Unisex.
29th April, 2015 (last edited: 01st May, 2015)
Far from your average pretty rose soliflore, this rose has seen better days. Its beauty wanes in its twilight, the petals a little dry, withering around their edges, its scarlet hues noticeably darker with the inevitable decay. There is a certain element of darkness or intrigue about it, like a fading beauty flirting with danger. I can imagine why the mature fragrance wearers could appreciate this better than novice noses.

Earlier references to rose chypres are well-deserved for Rose de Nuit smells like a fallen rose on a bed of moss and dark earth. While I didn't enjoy the somewhat animalic opening its last few hours kept me enthralled. That it often evokes compelling stories is testament to the genius behind this composition.
14th October, 2014

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