Perfume Directory

Avant Garde (2006)
by Micallef


Avant Garde information

Year of Launch2006
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 44 votes)

People and companies


About Avant Garde

Avant Garde is a shared / unisex perfume by Micallef. The scent was launched in 2006

Avant Garde fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Avant Garde

I'm revisiting this fragrance and getting a different reaction to it now. After looking at the reviews, there is no consensus on Avant Garde. This is a chameleon-type fragrance, so a large sampling is in order before committing to a bottle. One reaction which stayed the same in my wearings is that it is a translucent mix of normally thick notes - tobacco, cocoa, incense, leather, ambergris.
The citrus in the opening are immediately intimately connected to the tobacco, so it opens with a citrusy tobacco vibe, rough and bright, sort of brown and lime colored.
When the citrus dries off, the fragrance intensifies into what is its theme - an interesting play on cocoa, tobacco and cherry. Cherry has strong associations with both cocoa and smoking tobacco, so though the cherry is pronounced, it never quite becomes gourmand for me because of its strong connection with scented tobacco. Other reviews spoke about Avant Garde's gourmand quality, but my skin amplified the tobacco and kept it from straying there. So the mix of chocolate-covered cherries and scented tobacco drives this fragrance a bit. Leather and incense are there in the midnote more as modifiers to the tobacco, but that's always a great combination - it's hard to go wrong with tobacco, leather and incense.
It doesn't have a lot of sillage (thank god) and stays fairly close to the wearer. With this combination of strong notes, I think it would make me a little queasy having to be near someone radiating this fragrance into the air. It's much better, and saved, by its association with the skin.
As it ages, tonka starts coming out, first as a subtle hay note which lightens the chocolate-cherry-tobacco accord, then warming and lightening even more with a birchy russian leather. The dry down is softer and lighter than the rest of the composition, a little more comforting and relaxed. But the tobacco edge never leaves, so it doesn't become a comfort scent, only more mellow. This phase is the one which wears best on my skin, a nice play of many rich notes that could go dark and thick, but instead mellows.
I like the way Avant Garde plays with the gourmand aspect without actually going there. But you have to like the cocoa-tobacco-cherry accord that drives this fragrance, so this is one I wouldn't wear, even though I find it worthy.
07th January, 2014 (last edited: 09th March, 2015)
drseid Show all reviews
United States
I am not a big gourmand fan, but I like Avante Garde. I kind of liken it to a similar scent as a dark chocolate covered cherry. As I love dark chocolate covered cherries it is hard for me to dislike this scent. That said, it is a bit strange walking around smelling like one. It really does not smell exactly like one, but it is the closest descriptor i can think of. Maybe in a more romantic situation this might work, but as a general daily wear scent it is tough to pull this off. Longevity is quite good, but projection is only average. In the end I have to give Avant Garde a thumbs up and a "good" 3 out of 5 rating, but just understand what you are getting into before you buy as it will not be for everyone, and people who dislike gourmands may have issues wearing it. This should not be a blind buy, IMO.
18th January, 2012 (last edited: 26th December, 2012)

There’s something intriguing about this one. My first testing of it gave me so little to go on that I scrawled a vague, noncommittal description then put it away and forgot about it. On finding it today I gave it another trial. This time the balance and discreetness exhibited a new-found depth and proportion hiding under the translucency of the fragrance..

Avant Garde is very hard to describe because it’s so subtle. First off, I get no citrus or orris in the opening…. I get a soft, translucent powdered cocoa note, balanced by an enrichment that I can’t really identify – except that the pyramid says “tobacco” and that could very well be. It holds that cocoa texture for a couple of hours and then gradually drifts off with a somewhat sweet drydown of tonka. As translucent as it is, I love the balance and delivery… and, most importantly, I feel good wearing it. Sillage is of skin-scent tenor and its longevity is poor.

13th May, 2011
I like this however there's something in it (possibly the musk) that puts off people around me (i.e. they sneeze a lot). I do not like that in a fragrance. Avantre Garde is a fresh musky scent that feels casual. The freshness is too much, though and feel unbalanced with the musk leaving an odd peppery note that lingers around. It also feels very robust and thick. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a bottle.
09th October, 2009
If you put 70% cocoa pebbles and 30% fruity pebbles in a bowl and top it with grape soda you may get an idea of what Avante Garde smells like. As it dries to the base it only gets more chalky. In fact, there doesn't seem to be any real base notes at all. If worn on clothes a fruity wet smell stays prominent throughout even after the cocoa and grape soda dissipate, which is better than chalkiness, but has been done much more pleasantly by countless other perfumers.

I really wanted to like this considering that at the time of this writing there is only one review, but there just is no hiding this unpleasantness.
09th April, 2009

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