Perfume Directory

Ambre Fétiche (2007)
by Annick Goutal


Ambre Fétiche information

Year of Launch2007
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 230 votes)

People and companies

HouseAnnick Goutal
PerfumerCamille Goutal
PerfumerIsabelle Doyen
Parent CompanyAmore Pacific
Parent Company at launchStarwood Capital Group > Taittinger > Louvre Groupe

About Ambre Fétiche

Part of the 'Les Orientalistes' trio alongside, Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant.

Reviews of Ambre Fétiche

I loved the very unisex amber, powder and mushroom opening but then the projection became too masculine (leather) for me at times. Amber, vanilla and incense. I would absolutely love it on a man, but I know some may say the powdery (iris) feel would be too much for them. Great fragrance anyway.
13th July, 2018
Ambre Fetice , a Goutal meets Amouage and Lutens. Wins Goutal.
19th June, 2018 (last edited: 20th June, 2018)
"One, two, three
If you close the door
The night could last forever
Leave the sunshine out
And say hello to never

All the people are dancing
And they're having such fun
I wish it could happen to me

But if you close the door
I'd never have to see the day again."
10th October, 2017

I am not a fan of amber as star of a production. I find it too powerful, too mentholated, too suffocating. I prefer it as a superbly tailored supporting player, one never forgotten when not on screen or stage, but not constantly in my olfactory arena.

Goutal’s Ambre Fetiche is such a star production. Amber, very strong and center stage, tempered a bit by vanilla, supported by frankincense and patchouli. There is a peppery, sharp wood underlay that is for me particularly off-putting. I find this in all modern perfumery using oud and/or guaiac wood.

I am sorry to miss the other notes so lovingly described (labdanum, iris, benzoin) in reviews, but alas, I cannot pick them up.

Top notes: Frankincense, Vanilla, Amber, Labdanum, Pepper
Heart notes: Iris, Benzoin, Geranium
Base notes: Leather, Patchouli, Styrax, Woods

Ambre Fetiche may have been influenced by the iconic Creed Ambre Cannelle (1949), a heavy rose and ambergris-dominated scent, which I loathe. This had a heavy medicinal, menthol note that annoyed me. It was practically nose-numbing. This was Eva Peron’s scent and as such, may have hastened her demise. That concoction involved cinnamon, juniper, rose, bay, coriander, musk and real ambergris.

Ambre Fetiche is no way near as powerful as the Creed and for amber lovers, I imagine it is gorgeous and just what they are looking for. Since I have to be honest and consistent, I must pass on it, so while I cannot enjoy it, it does seem to be well made and assembled. I will let the majority of positive reviewers on Basenotes sway me to a positive thumbs up for the product itself, regardless of my inability to enjoy it.

22nd August, 2017
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
This opening blast is quite something! Burning smoky rubber, leather, hints of latex, some benzoin with resinous birchtar - a delightful blend of rough smoky leather. At that stage the amber is more like a backdrop on this dramatic olfactory canvas.

The core principle underlying the development of the drydown is: lose the rough edges gradually, introduce a floral component, mainly iris, and see the amber increase in intensity and its presence over time gradually. Over time this turns into a warm, glowing and smooth amber, which dominates the base and peters out gradually.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection and an impressive ten hours of longevity on my skin.

The first stage is very convincing, albeit of less high quality than, for instance, Knize Ten, and with a somwhat contrived leather impression, but nonetheless well crafted. The later stages with the amber in the centre of their development are also lovely, but a bit more linear. Overall a rather nice product. 3.5/5.

18th January, 2017
I like Ambre Fetiche, but I have to admit that the opening smells more like a byproduct of the petroleum industry than a perfume. Something plasticky and greasy in the top notes suggests Vaseline to me, or perhaps pleather. I don’t find this unpleasant, merely a little unsettling, especially when mixed with the sickly, biscuity undertone of the amber underneath.

The mental image: a prostitute at the Bunny Ranch, Nevada, at 2:30 in the afternoon, a big dollop of lubricant making a snail’s trail down the inside of her left thigh while a man in Stetsons huffs and puffs on top of her. The man's breath smells like biscuit crumbs - he hasn't washed his teeth. Bored, she turns her head to admire her new white pleather knee-highs, up around her ears now and close enough for inspection. Squeak-squeak goes the pleather with every thrust.

Biscuits, syrup, Vaseline, pleather. Stale cigarette smoke mingling with the powerfully sweet Victoria’s Secret Amber Romance body lotion she applied that morning.

The texture of the perfume is both dry-harsh and syrupy-sweet, resulting in an interesting pulling apart motion in the fabric, like honey rubbed against the grain of a plank of wood. The syrupy white amber is thickly poured, but clashes against the parched powder of benzoin. The resin sticks in my craw and the syrup cloys. It’s too intense, this feeling. The only other perfume that mimics this effect is Byredo’s 1996.

The discordant harmony of the birch tar, the amber, and the iris produces something of a similar push-pull feeling within me: I like it, and then I like it not. Each time I wear this fragrance, it’s like plucking out petals and never knowing whether you’re going to end up. Sometimes, I find the thought of the ride quite exciting. Sometimes, the thought of it exhausts me. Either way, like the Bunny Girl's client, it always lasts way longer than I want it to.
13th February, 2016

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