Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme (2009)
by Nicolaï

This incredibly handsome patchouli-fougere-mousse fragrance is thick and rich as shaving cream. I call it a mousse fragrance because it very well may be just as much about the wet, well-lathered moss as it is about green patchouli. There's no earthiness to be found here: just a balance between long-lasting, creamy-fougere notes and the more minerally, vitamin-esque side of moss and geranium. Light vanilla peeks through toward the end. I often wear this to work, but sometimes, I even wear it when I'm having a stay-at-home day.

This is good. It gives me a memory of being in France. It works as a masculine fragrance, as labeled. It would make a virile aftershave. Maybe I've encountered someone in France wearing this. This definitely smells like being in France: in someone's house, in a car.

This came in a sample pack with some Etat Libre d'Orange samples, including Je Suis un Homme, which I preferred to this for being more wearable in my style.

This one, Nicolai Patchouli Homme, is strong, and makes a statement. It smells of essential oils, thick and concentrated. I could imagine it being too much for some people to feel comfortable trying to pull off. I could also imagine people being elated to have a bottle of this, and feeling extreme confidence and mood elevation wearing it. Because of my associations with the smell, it feels like a better fit for someone over 40, even a woman. It's so evocative.

I could imagine someone who wears Yatagan liking this. There's something similar in the boldness, bordering on brash, this one even more so, perhaps.

I received a 15 ml. travel size of Patchouli Intense as an extra when I purchased a another 100 ml. Nicolaï. It is a bit strange, but in my opinion, wonderful blend. The ingredients seem to work both with and against each other in a curious development. As soon as the top notes begin to fade and the bay rum note kicks in this transformation begins. This is not the bay leaf that goes into soups and stews, but a much sharper, somewhat camphor-like note usually only found in Bay Rum colognes. In a sense, it's the monkey wrench in the mix, but it also provides a crucial bridge into the dry-down along with the soon-to-follow cinnamon and patchouli. When incense and vanilla make their appearance, the whole show is on the road. The bay oil retains its linch-pin position to the end, but as the top notes fade further away, it sets up a new and equally pleasing impression with the base notes.

Some people my find this a stretch, but I think any fragrance fan can appreciate the artistry and bold stroke that it represents. The more Nicolaï creations I get to know, the more my admiration for the artistry of this house grows. I've visited their Rue de Richelieu store on two different trips to Paris, and their personnel are very kind, knowledgeable, and welcoming. Rumor has it the basement there is the location of their laboratory. Intriguing... As always, it's an advantage to speak French if you can...

Parfums de Nicolai has at its helm Patricia Nicolai, one of the most skilled perfumers of her generation. Her creations are rich, traditional, and complex. This doesn't seem to click with many, while many also find them too conventional or stereotyped. I, on the contrary, love this house. The compositions are complete, polished, exhibit the craft of the perfumer, the quality of ingredients, and, while there surely are some that do not make the mark, there is not a single release that can be considered bad, vulgar, or of low quality.

Patchouli Homme apparently has had a mixed reception, particularly because it's very different from most other niche patchouli fragrances. This is not a hardcore patchouli fragrance, even though patchouli is the most prominent member in the cast. Anyone looking for a 'patchouli' fragrance is likely to be disappointed. Here, it's not about patchouli. It's about the blend. Patchouli Homme firmly belongs to the 'patchouli and more' camp.

Patchouli Homme is an aromatic, and, at times, vaguely soapy interpretation of patchouli, where patchouli is somewhat in the shadows. I get notes of lavender, rose, mild spices and woods in an incredible accord that's hard to describe. The individuals notes are a little hard to discern, yet they manage to create many subtle nuances and dimensions that make the fragrance feel layered, rich and complex. There is a long and slow transition from the initial bright aromatics and touches of herbal elements to the comforting patchouli laden late dry down. It is assured, suave, sophisticated and simply smells divine. I'm sure it employs a fair degree of synthetics, however, there is a rich presence on skin, as it gives off impressions of a seamless blend of high quality essential oils. I have run through half of my 1 oz bottle, and now I can mention this in no uncertain terms: Patchouli Homme is, at least to me, right up there with the best Guerlains. While some might find it too conservative, this screams to me classic traditional French perfumery, rich and opulent - at least in the 21st century.

Lastly, for a perfume lover always crying about thin sillage and duration, Patchouli Homme is fantastic. François Hénin, founder of Jovoy, has apparently mentioned about Psychédélique: "Even the rain and mud of Woodstock won’t wash it away." Born in '86, if I could time travel to any one music festival, that would be Woodstock. In reality, unfortunately I cannot perform that experiment, irrespective of how much I wish I could. Now here comes the connection: I just wore Patchouli Homme all day last Friday in Chicago, including a day and afternoon out in the city with lunch and drink intervals, a mind bending four hour evening concert by Phish, followed by late night rounds at the good old blues bars on Halsted. Patchouli Homme was still discernible in the wee hours when I finally crashed.

5/5

Big bold opening with a luxurious rose and cinnamon dry down which then morphs to a patchouli/frankincense/sandalwood scent that is glorious. Fragrance last a long time on me.