Arsène Lupin Voyou (2010)
by Guerlain

A mirthful mingling
Of Derby's world and Thierry's.
Fine fragrant mischief.

This begins as a generic oceanic woody scent, similar to seemingly millions of chain department store and cheap celebrity juices.

I kept waiting for it to develop in some way, as other reviewers have noted, but on my skin and to my nose, nothing further happens, other than a bit of spicy pepper slowly being added to the mix. It calms down to a mix of sweet musks.

Because of its lack or originality and its commonness, I must give it a negative rating, especially at the prices asked for it. The mix of notes seemed intriguing, but the end of the journey is not worth the experiment.

The first 30 minutes of Voyou might fool you into thinking it's just one of those really generic fragrances on mall counters. Indeed, it has a "been there done that" fresh and sweet vibe during this stage. But Voyou evolves into something completely different, dominated by sage, pepper and sandalwood, with a touch of sweetness (from the benzoin) to give it a playful character.

The melange of herbs, pepper and woods captures the magic of a master perfumer as the composition conjures up unmistakably Guerlain. It's definitely not a strong scent, it actually whispers. But the times when I catch occasional whiffs of it really are breathtaking, which makes me wonder if the herbs and spices are from exotic lands.

Voyou, the thief with many disguises, takes me on a journey I wish would never end.

Well, I didn't hate this nearly as much as everyone else seems to. It smells like a powdery fougere with a touch of pepper and citrus keeping it from being completely boring and the Guerlinade holds things together nicely. That's really about it. It's quite pleasant to me, but I wouldn't spend the money for a bottle--especially considering it seems to be rather weak. Took a few sprays to feel like I smell like anything, and even after that projection was on the low side. I thought it was rather nice, if undistinguished, and it has Guerlain stamped all over it.

Tested Arsene Lupin Voyou side by side with the different (and far greater) Dandy version, well I just see a balmy-rosey benzoin/sandalwood/patchouli accord supported by rich spices (probably cinnamon, nutmeg and cardamom) and a final touch of muskiness. The synthetic vibe is effectively notable but the aroma is delicate, spicy and pleasant. Anyway any trace of texture or elegance. A touch of sweet tobacco takes probably part at the ceremony. An humble fragrance not in line with the great Guerlain's tradition.