Perfume Directory

Diaghilev (2010)
by Roja Dove

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Diaghilev information

Year of Launch2010
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 90 votes)

People and companies

HouseRoja Dove
PerfumerRoja Dove

About Diaghilev

Diaghilev is a shared / unisex perfume by Roja Dove. The scent was launched in 2010 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Roja Dove

Reviews of Diaghilev

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Review of the Parfum

After a brief introductory moment of citrus (bergamot, lemon, line, and orange)and fruity blackcurrant buds with peach, one enters the core zones of this creation.

Firstly, a floral intermezzo, which, after an slighly creamy ylang-ylang scents the scene, on me mainly consists of a dark-ish non-waxy tuberose and a somewhat simple rose; the tuberose has more depth and nuances. An equally dark violet, and a dscrete jamsime impression. A touch of a gently spicy heliotrope prepares me for the next phase, which is the main game, ad this main game is chypre:

Now a large cluster of many notes arises: mainly a mix of oakmoss, benzoin, civet,labdanum, dark musks, ca touch of clove, a fairly intense cumin, a harsher styrax and a dark but not very harsh patchouli. together with a herbal touch - tarragon mainly - and an underlying tarragon, the chypre nature of this creation is becoming evident; at times is has more of a balsamic undertone than one expects from a classic chypre. There are hints of a dark leather that is not particularly soft, and a slightly earthy vetiver with hints of nutmeg, but the latter two are very weak and perfunctory on me. In all this mix the core chypre character remains in the foreground.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and nine hour of longevity on my skin.

This scent for autumn evening is an interesting take on the chypre concept. It presents many typical classic component one expects, with some contemporary variations here and there. Some of the large amounts of ingredients hardly make a meaningful impact on the whole individually, and that result in a bit on an overload of notes, but the Parfum is blended so well such as to result in enough development to entice, and displays good depth and texture. The allusion to ballet seems a but arbitrary though. 3.5/5
29th January, 2021
I really wanted to LOVE this, as generally enjoy a well made chypre, and this had many positive reviews, and notes I love. I tried a sample from reliable source -- several different times,in fact. I just didn't "get" the blissful experience others seem to enjoy. There were moments I enjoyed in the dry down. Then I'd catch that gritty bitter underlying tone that made my nose wrinkle for the first few minutes always seemed to be in the background like an annoying gnat,longevity was 4-6 hours.
Guess I should be glad I didn't fall in love with it, given the price! I may try Misouku as it has been mentioned as a similar scent.
28th September, 2020
I have to confess when I read one review about this being "mainly a feminine musky floral mix that comes off like old lady perfume, I was kind of apprehensive about trying it especially when you take the cost into account but make no mistake this is Red Riding Hood's Wolf hiding in Granny's panties. A very pleasant with fragrance with the occasional reminder a killer frag takes no hostages.
29th February, 2020
Diaghilev by Roja Dove is PACKED with a bunch of notes that ends up making this feel a bit ungrounded, though not altogether cloying.

This outing from Roja Dove certainly seems to fall into the floral chypre category of scents: A crowd of floral notes inhabit the heart and makes Diaghilev feel more like a lady's scent than for men. Like the earthy-musky floor of the fragrance, but otherwise it isn't one that is a bit dated and disconnected to me (albeit it looks thoughtfully crafted in a classical style, where many notes could make for usually unique results).

And that price!! You'd have to fall head over heels for this old-school style of chypre scent to want to pay the outrageous asking price for a full bottle.
07th January, 2019
D is a summary of a genre that is long lost in modern perfumary. The epoch of the chypre genre was the animalic fruity floral with mossy leather nuances with some spice.
It opens with herbs and citrus much like the greats of yesteryear then opens up a mossy leathery heart with cumin, and fruit. The animalic ending makes this dirty and sexy..like you are wearing contraband or something that the IFRA would have a heart attack over. Is it the greatest of all time? No. I will say I have worn the iconic vintage chypres of this genre. Diorama, Patou Lasso, Rochas Femme, Etc. However, If you do not/cant get these vintages..then yes Roja is a great piece.

This is made for a vintage enthusiasts or a well educated nose. This has substance. I find it closer to Femme than Mitsy.

It reminds us how great perfumery used to be.
02nd November, 2018
I don't want to admit how much I love this scent because its price point is completely and truly outrageous. So much so, in fact, that I will never buy a full bottle of Diaghilev even though I (theoretically) could. I will never buy anything that Roja makes for just this reason, although I doubt that he is crying tears over my abstention. Okay, now that I got that off my chest...

The scent itself is wondrous: a truly old-school chypre that smells like Mitousko to the third power. I breathe in its fumes like a dog smelling fried bacon, floating off in a haze of gorgeous peach-laden oak moss, jasmine and rose, and just the right hints of cumin and civet. It definitely smells old fashioned, so stay far away if hard-core vintage scents are not your thing. I could wear this quite happily most days...if I were a millionaire and didn't object to RD's business principles (or lack thereof).

Edit: Now that I have worn nothing but vintage Misouko for a month, I find that my infatuation with Diaghilev is just that. Roja's scent misses the contrapuntal notes that the Guerlain provides in spades. Diaghilev is simply a bit too sweet and mellow, while Misouko is greener and much more layered and mysterious. Mitsy operates in both the upper and lower registers of tone, while the Dove fragrance stays static in the alto range. It provides only the low notes of a cello, while Mitsouko brings the whole string quartet.
05th October, 2017 (last edited: 28th December, 2018)

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