Eau de Metal (1986)
by Paco Rabanne

Another hidden disappeared gem for us and one of the most sublime "Odes" to the gorgeous note of ylang-ylang I've stumbled upon in my miserable life of southern solitary perfumista :-). Eau de Metal, yes a classic treasure straight from the "old style" Paco Rabanne's glorious "course", welcomes us dramatically (I'd say "metallically" in a quite angular, edgy, aldehydic-herbal-sharply floral-earthy-leafy-botanic way and just for twenty seconds or few more) before quickly morphing in to one of the most apparently "soapy-neutral-abstract-mossy" (but actually complexly floral) bases I've ever experienced on my "experienced" mediterranean skin. Eau de Metal is basically a musky-floral concoction (smelling finally at same time subtle-floral-chic and warmly organic-musky on skin) and the dry down is almost identical to a familiar aroma for me, namely the one of bath-foam Nidra Latte Palmolive (being Eau de Metal surely more subtle, complex, musky-boise and nuanced). Despite a veritable massive floral presence the floral perception is moderate under the nose (like something substantially restrained) because of a really dominant and catalysing soapy-musky vibe. White musk and oakmoss are complemented by soapy amber, balsams, tonka and by a complex "flori-herbal" bouquet (mastered by rose, hyacinth and ylang-ylang). The first blast is edgy with its lamellar twist of leaves, bitter-green notes, aldehydes, green earthiness (vetiver) and aromatics. A musky aura is by soon evident in its balmy substance supported by a sheer ambery soapy presence with a multicolored floral kaleidoscope of sophisticated nuances (jasmine, iris, ylang-ylang, hyacinth). Ylang-ylang is super chic, radiant and exotic while a musky hyacinth enhances a dominant "neutral" mossy (earthy-humid) atmosphere throughout (kind of vaguely earthy, mouldy, camphoraceous and boise). All the laminal elements gradually tame their "fury" tending to slide towards a more silky musky-soapy-floral atmosphere mastered by musky amber and chic/exotic ylang-ylang. Dry down is warm/musky/soapy on skin, is like a dive in the most heavenly hot foamy bathtub of this universe (spumous, milky, laundry-neutral, dreamy) but is super chic and sophisticatated "at distance" as well. Ylang-ylang and hyacinth are the royal elements of this marvelous soapy bouquet providing a surprisingly modern glamour "unisex" vibe. This juice is disappeared from the shelves but is still incredibly modern and timeless in its attractive intimate aura. A great pity its disappearance.

A rare treasure, but one definitely worth seeking out. This rather unique release by Paco Rabanne is part of the rich history of the house. It came out in 1986, and was actually, according to some old marketing I found, released "for Men". Here, on Basenotes, it is classified as a "Feminine" scent. However, most people who have worn it would probably agree it is truly Unisex. The bottle I have is not as shown, but instead came in a reddish/silver box with a big silver "Pr" logo on it with the bottle having the large, Vintage "Pr" logo - clear glass with all red lettering, no white border or white cap. The cap is actually black and is as wide as the bottle. You can find what I am talking about on Ebay, hopefully.

The notes here are actually wonderful! A vibrant opening of aldehydes, hyacinth (gorgeous here), lily-of-the-valley, rose (not dominant), jasmine and a nice note of ylang-ylang as well as a light iris which offers a touch of powder. There is also basil, which adds a nice green, herbal note that balances nicely and carries into the heart of florals.

The base is well-done as it doesn't dominate the florals. You will find oakmoss (more of a fixative than a note, but it is there and keeps the green notes alive and the florals fresh), a light vetiver, a touch of warm amber and a nice clean white musk.

On my skin, I find it to be very fresh and a wonderful radiating aura scent with just a single spray! I have done a wearing (3-4 shots or so) on a warm spring day and it lasted for hours. Definitely a scent for men who want to explore fragrant florals on their skin and don't mind presenting their feminine archetype (as Carl Jung would express). I have a static feminine with a dominant masculine, but I feel totally confident and comfortable wearing this. A composition to admire and one you will not find in today's mainstream boredom.

Glorious and harmonious. One of the better (and least known) Paco Rabanne bottlings, Eau de Metal in the clear glass (no white border) and red lettering with the red & silver box. I prefer to wear it during Spring, Summer and Fall days - with sunshine! The sensation is one of the flowers opening on your skin when the rays of sunlight interact with this fragrance. I deeply love masculine florals - and this one is even short of that and is fully Unisex (my wife wears it and it smells amazing on her as well). Enjoy...this is truly beautiful!!