Perfume Directory

La Petite Robe Noire Couture (2014)
by Guerlain


La Petite Robe Noire Couture information

Year of Launch2014
Average Rating
(based on 31 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerThierry Wasser
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About La Petite Robe Noire Couture

La Petite Robe Noire Couture is a feminine perfume by Guerlain. The scent was launched in 2014 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Thierry Wasser

La Petite Robe Noire Couture fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of La Petite Robe Noire Couture

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The opening is mainly a raspberry candy impression, mixed with raspberry jam. Not the fresh fruit. Not overly sweet.

The drydown adds a rose, a rose of medium brightness that is. I get the the blossom only without and green leaves or woodsy component. The rose remains in the background on me, as the raspberry form the beginning remains centre stage and pushes the rose aside. Towards the later stages a slightly mossy component arises, but it is rather perfunctory and not particularly green.

The base continues with the initial fruitiness, and adds a touch of brightness from a vetiver that is lacking any darkness it earthiness. I also get a bit of tonka that adds more sweetness, but it never becomes intrusive or cloying.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

This raspberry-heavy spring scent is simple, sweet but not bad; it lacks, however, what it makes to raise above average levels, as the notes are too generic. 2.75/5.

19th January, 2020
Raspberry & rose are as one. Jammy sweet. Thick. Not overly sweet, to me. Tonka bean does not wait to be "heard". It locks arms with the top and middle notes. These notes create a dark sweetness, like burnt sugar, with a slight booze aspect. Close to the skin, an earthy greenness exists.

After time, I find this one reminds me of cherries soaked in some type of alcoholic beverage. Rum maybe? I don't find this too sweet, even now. This frag seems better suited for cooler months, in my opinion. Evening-wear, too.

Everything merges, mellows. Rose becomes a little sweeter after time, on my skin.
22nd March, 2019
Thick, simmered-down cherry compote with a touch of booze topped with mint and plasticky aldehydes. It's curious, the molten plastic keeps this from smelling like stupid, immature candy, but it also makes everything a bit gross.

Things get better with time, as some signature Guerlain gourmand elements slip in underneath the plastic mint cherry slop, but it's not enough to win me over.
05th September, 2018
It sits on a knife edge of fruity diabetic coma and something masculine, as if L'Homme is lurking underneath. I stood in a queue where the woman in front tapped the 1st woman in line and asked "What is your perfume, may I ask".... It was La Vie est Belle, not Couture, but they are examples of what may be appealing from a queue can be quite hard to wear hour after hour. This is a fragrance that definitely quarrels with anything else, your soap, your deodorant, your hand cream, hair product. Don't blend them as I did before I understood my crime. Don't mess with Couture, keep it understated, wait for the dry down, this girl went Haute Couture, and won't brook competition.
09th September, 2017
Berries made classy, but the whole fragrance is a bit uninteresting for me. I bought it blindly after smelling the first "La petite robe noire" on people. I don't regret buying it, but I wouldn't have bought "La Petite Robe Noire Couture" if I had sampled it before.
03rd May, 2017
Guerlain have long followed the rule that it's better to be good than to be first. Or at least it's better to be the last one standing. Coty Chypre created the genre that defined perfumery in the 20th century. Mitsouko copied the formula, improved it and is now the standard-bearer. Shalimar came on the heels of Coty Emeraude and a number of other huge vanillic/balsamic ambers that were popular at the time. It then surpassed them and became the model of the genre. Coty l'Origan, then Guerlain l'Heure Bleue. Caron En Avion, then Guerlain Vol de Nuit. Even on the men's side, Guerlain's eponymous Vetiver followed Carven's by four years.

The Fruitchouli genre is a somewhat restrained take on the egregious gourmands of late 1990s. The Fruitchouli's emphasis on berry notes makes it technically gourmand in nature, but it is Gourmand 2.0. The questionable goal of smelling like a cupcake was toppled and 'hints of (fill-in-the-blank) berry' became the marketing catch-phrase. In 2009, late in the game, Guerlain entered the fray with La Petite Robe Noire eau de toilette. The reference Fruitchoulis by this time were already dead and gone. Badgely Mischka by Badgely Mischka was discontinued and Miss Dior Chérie had been thoroughly reformulated, flanked and renamed to the point of anonymity. Guerlain went the shell-game route of Miss Dior Chérie, quickly replacing its first version by Delphine Jelk with a similar version by Thierry Wasser, then releasing an eau de parfum. Then came the stream of flankers, each distinguished by a slightly different silhouette of a little black dress on the bottle. Most buyers don't actually know which perfume they actually have.

La Petite Robe Noire Couture is the stand-out of the lot. It is unmistakably a Fruitchouli, but rather than simply following the reduction of the genre (sweetness + berry flavor = perfume) that has become the norm, it benefits from Guerlain's years of twisting patisserie into perfume. It shows its Guerlain DNA in an almost campy exaggeration of its predecessors. Mitsouko's plum is prim next to La Petite Robe Noire Couture's sweet berry cobbler, but the likeness is there. La Petite Robe Noire Couture's dark sweetness is a less restrained play on L'Heure Bleue's bittersweet version of the floral oriental.

La Petite Robe Noire Couture's real precedent, though, is Guerlain Insolence. Insolence was derided as a trite sweet floral that watered down the reputation of the brand. Guerlain's smart move was to beat the criticism by going further over the top, creating Insolence Eau de Parfum. It was a monstrous, laughing fuck-you of a perfume that made critics of the original appear out of step and fussy. If La Petite Robe is considered just the next post-LVMH nail in Guerlain's coffin (also said of l'Instant, Insolence, Idylle, Shalimar Parfum Initial and l'Homme Ideal) the Couture model wades further into the dogfight. The berry compote is simmered down to an even thicker consistency so that Couture's sweetness is denser than the edt's or edp's. It even steals a page directly from Insolence with a touch of a hairspray note that gives Couture a defiantly 'perfumey' quality.

You thought the original Petite Robe Noire was a little déclassé for Guerlain? Try Couture. Modesty is for pussies.

17th May, 2015

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