Perfume Directory

Thé Noir 29 (2015)
by Le Labo


Thé Noir 29 information

Year of Launch2015
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 83 votes)

People and companies

HouseLe Labo
PerfumerFrank Voelkl
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Thé Noir 29

Le Labo say:

Thé Noir 29 is an ode to the noble leaf and the craft that surrounds it. Thé Noir 29 combines depth and freshness, softness and strength through permanent oscillation between the light of bergamot, fig and bay leaves and the depth of cedar wood, vetiver and musk. A special extraction of black tea leaves wraps up the composition by bringing to the formula a dry, leafy, hay, tobacco feeling in the dry down to transform this creation into a sensuous and addictive essence.

Thé Noir 29 fragrance notes

Reviews of Thé Noir 29

alexmate Show all reviews
United Kingdom
Fragrance in three words: Intoxicating Fruity Fig

I was in the middle on this one, but I've decided a thumbs up is the way to go as I think there is something unique and intoxicating about it.

It wasn't what I expected. I was hoping for a big black tea heavy note like Gucci pour Homme II (2007) or Black by Bulgari (1998). The tea note in Thé Noir 29 is very subtle almost an afterthought, despite its name. You get a massive fruity fig note which dominates. Drydown to me is musty woods.

Price in the UK is £130 for 50ml or £189 for 100ml (in 2020), which makes it about on par with Byredo.

For me it isn't bottle worthy, but I would score it 7 out of 10.

Official 0.7ml Sample Vial
06th November, 2020 (last edited: 03rd February, 2021)
Fruity-sweet and leafy-green opening. Oooo INDOLES alert - like honeyed dried fruit and flowers.....Oooo....the rather miserly sweatiness/Saltiness of dried Rose/tea comes to live ON SKIN and really balances the sweetness, OR the salt of my skin just makes the Rose and Tea more enjoyable and familiar. It’s like having high-end potpourri MISTED lightly on skin. I wish this was much more indolic, more sweaty and had more decaying nuances. The small amounts of indoles are there, which marks the resemblance to honey and potpourri. i generally enjoy the smell of certain Rots,decays, ferments. Got Yeast? Oh you haven’t a clue how much I’d love to smell your sweaty skin! (Roja Dove explains this fascination best). Additionally, you will also learn to enjoy the LACTONIC/CREAMY floral accords in 29 that become quite prominent within 20 min to the half-hour. In closure, this fades into a mild and sweet incense base, sticking much closer to skin than its top and mids. Overall, there is some density to this but from cleaner sources, none of the heavy powdery civet, but rather subdued clear musks, saving this from being another transparent or watery creation. This is much safer than what I tend to enjoy, but definitely not a wasted addition or redundancy. Rose 31’s distant Cousin for sure. “Creamy Rose-tea Incense”.
26th October, 2020
Looking at the profile and notes of TN29 I knew instantly that it was for me. I'm a giant fan of fresh/spicy/gourmand/ozonic/balsamic (I know,I know) frags so rather than waste my money on yet another beautiful dud that lasts 4 seconds on my skin (I'm looking at you, Santal Royal/Oud & Bergamot/Terre d'Hermes) I thought I'd get a decant off eBay. Which, by the way, was everything I was hoping for: lush, juicy fig, a breezy but definite tea note, incensey, warm but exhilarating. And it lasted hours and hours and I knew I'd found my new signature as Royal Oud is proving too expensive a habit.
Fast forward to ordering a full bottle. Even as I opened the stopper my heart sank. It smelled thin, watery and stank of disappointment. It lasted all of 15 minutes on me. I sold the bottle on eBay a few days later. So my question is this: was the decant from the 2016 bottle 'off' or had it matured beautifully? Should I have waited three years for my bottle to develop?! Or am I anosmic to all the scents i love? So infuriating.
18th June, 2019
The Noir 29 is a remarkably polished and alluring blend of fig, tea and an accord that hints at a dry, dark rose. It starts off with a citrus laced accord of fig and black tea, airy and radiant. There is a hint of rose, and I perceive minimal musks; I don't detect any hay or tobacco. It's translucent but persistent; I smell a lot of synthetic woods in the dry down. There is a passing hint at Cartier's Declaration d'Un Soir, but The Noir 29 has more dimensions. It has an unusual freshness, is quite clean and crisp, and has surprising sillage with good duration, based on a moderate application. It is dressy, and perhaps more suitable in cooler weather.

I loved The Noir 29 the first time I wore it, but thereafter realised a problem; the perfume is too sharp for me because of the synthetic notes, especially what I perceive to be woody-ambers (even though I don't find it ambery). This is even more surprising since I love and wear a fair number of perfumes that are too sharp/synthetic for many, such as Portrait of a Lady and the aforementioned Declaration d'Un Soir. The sillage of The Noir 29 is very elegant on someone else, and this is definitely complimented upon by others, based on personal experience. However, it becomes too jarring for me when I wear it; which is a little sad, since I like the scent.

21st March, 2019
I haven't been too keen on Le Labo overall, as I find their "sciency-wiency" gimmick and naming things one way but having them smell another to not be so cute as they'd hope it to be, but I rather like Thé Noir 29 (2015). Those not brushed up on French might see this as "The Black 29" but it actually means "Black Tea 29". Yeah, we have another case of not smelling like what it's called, but in this instance, I forgive Le Labo for their quirky misleading single-note titles because what it -does- smell like is pretty damned good. Thé Noir does contain elements of black tea, but the elephant in the room which makes this not what it seems is a fig and rose pair of Siamese twins. You get a big ol' fat dry fig and rose compound note conjoined at the hips which is the true focus of this composition, whether real or just a happy coincidence from the mix of black tea and it's surrounding support columns, but for anyone who has smelled Cartier Déclaration d'Un Soir (2012), Salvatore Ferragamo Pour Homme (1999) or Mancera So Blue (2015), it's a darker take on the same aura. As a whole, Thé Noir is a dark, brooding, dry, "Gothic Romance" fragrance in the atmospheric (but not necessarily olfactory) vein of Salvador Dali Pour Homme (1987) or Portrait of a Lady (2010), just with black tea, hay, fig and tobacco as the canvas for it's rose instead of animalics or ambery synthetics, respectively. This is so far the one Le Labo I'd buy, and the most accessible of the range's most popular creations by far, since Santal 33 (2011) and Rose 31 (2009) are pretty "out there" in comparison to Thé Noir 29. I'm not saying being "out there" is a bad thing, just not a great quality to possess for easing newcomers into a brand, since folks regularly test these at Nordstrom counters where they're most-commonly found.

Thé Noir opens with dry bergamot, which is almost a prerequisite for this psuedo-Victorian style, but the black tea shows it's face pretty early, holding hands with fig on the left and rose on the right, like the top notes are playing a very intense game of Red Rover. It's all pretty stiff and linear going in, which is the biggest weakness of the opening, as a love-or-shove reaction will be had then and there, but if you get passed it, there is some development. Cedar, hay, and vetiver comprise the middle, tightening and firming with grassy and woody aromatics with just enough hay to give Thé Noir growl without feeling like being down on the farm. These middle notes join the simple musk and slight tobacco base near the end. Yeah, there's some synthetic play here, like Iso E Super, but I don't get much else. The tobacco is very leafy and almost invisible against the rest, and the musk isn't very rich, with most of Thé Noir living in the strong top and aromatic middle, coming across as pale, dimly-lit, and mysterious. Sillage is on the impressive side but this isn't a bomb, and longevity is appropriately sufficient given the niche price point. The kicker here is how much do you like dark, dry, leafy tea, fig, and rose on an aromatic bed, and if that answer is "a lot", then this may be right for you. I'd say Thé Noir is too "Depeche Mode" for the work space, but on a night out at a darkly-lit gastro pub or an art exhibit, this feels particularly right. There's a bit of unisex appeal in Thé Noir as well, but it does swing mostly masculine to my nose.

Thé Noir sits somewhere between modernity and antiquity, as do a lot of things in this perennial genre. Other scents present stronger tea notes, like Bvlgari Black (1998), while still others have a more-prominent rose, like the aforementioned Déclaration d'Un Soir, and if you want to go full-fig, there's Philosykos by Diptyque (1996), so the value in Thé Noir is in it's blending of these themes on an aromatic base. For that reason, Thé Noir is spared from being assessed as an ineffectively expensive option in a crowded samey genre, like so many niche fougères or niche Western ouds, because there isn't much exactly like it, albeit there are many more economical options in the same wheelhouse. Frank Voelkl earned his perfumer stripes making compositions on a much smaller budget for Avon and Kenneth Cole before becoming a Le Labo mainstay, and like his compositions for those houses, Thé Noir displays a certain level of "less is more" efficiency despite being a niche scent, giving it great note separation and a bit of transparency in spite of it's voluminous strength. Niche done like a mainstream cheapie or niche done cheaply? That's for you to decide, but if you're up for the $240+ price tag Le Labo commands for 100ml, this is almost a blind buy for lovers of leafy, floral, dark, aromatic perfumes. For everyone else, I suggest a sample first, lest a steep blind buy make this Gothic romance transform into an Expressionist stage play full of tragedy and long faces. Thumbs up for me!
09th October, 2018
Yes, this is good, real good. The most accessible Le Labo of them all. The first time I wore it was from the official 1.5ml sample. I wasn’t blown away but I liked it. The second time I got way more depth. The third time was from the 100ml bottle and wow, kinda stunned. It’s easy to wear and the sillage and longevity are deceiving as it’s a little softer than you might think, but it lasts and projects. Really like this. A lot. Gentle black currant and fig tea that’s different enough from the rest to really stand out.
31st March, 2018

Add your review of Thé Noir 29

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Thé Noir 29 products online

Some of the links we use are affiliate links, meaning if you click the links and make a purchase, we may receive a commission, which helps us keep the site running

Shop for Thé Noir 29 at online perfumeries

Search on ebay

Member images of Thé Noir 29

There are no member images of Thé Noir 29 yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.