Perfume Directory

Eau de Néroli Doré (2016)
by Hermès

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Eau de Néroli Doré information

Year of Launch2016
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 31 votes)

People and companies

HouseHermès
PerfumerJean-Claude Ellena

About Eau de Néroli Doré

Eau de Néroli Doré is a shared / unisex perfume by Hermès. The scent was launched in 2016 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena

Eau de Néroli Doré fragrance notes

Reviews of Eau de Néroli Doré

Hermés Eau de Néroli Doré (2016) isn't the first "dirty citrus" to hit the market under the house banner, and as part of the brand's Eau de Cologne line, isn't much meant for day wear in the first place, but still feels a bit lacking in purpose and execution. With more marketing pomp than substance, Eau de Néroli Doré claims to take half of Tunisia and Morocco's annual neroli crops to produce, and is painstakingly hand-distilled by Jean-Claude Ellena himself to bring the ultimate in luxury cologne experiences, yet is easily out-classed by something from Guerlain's cologne lines for much less. There are some redeeming qualities to Eau de Néroli Doré, but only hardcore Hermés fanatics will find them significant enough to warrant a purchase.

Eau de Néroli Doré is touted to be a simple three-note wonder. The top is bitter orange, the heart is that telltale neroli from orange blossom, and the base is saffron, providing a variant of the "dirty citrus" vibe usually accomplished through the use of cumin or civet. The bitter orange and neroli both open, but the neroli seems to fade and blend quickly into the orange peel-like tartness, hiding any trace that this contains an entire economy of natural orange blossom harvests. The saffron is noticeable afterward, but is accompanied by some slight orris-like soapiness that isn't listed in the official notes, mildly neutering whatever dirty spice the saffron was meant to communicate. The total wear lasts a few hours but poofs to skin scent levels after 30 minutes as traditional eaux de cologne tend to do, and I am left a bit wanting from the experience.

Most eau de cologne fragrances become after-shower indulgences for me, but without any real complexity or bracing freshness in Eau de Néroli Doré, it fails at its intended purpose as a decadent luxury cologne. Some of the rather overpriced Hermés Eau de Cologne series feels like catalog padding in general, with a bottle filling a need for a specific note focus or color to complete the rainbow appearance of the line, and Eau de Néroli Doré is an example of such. I don't hate this, but having a neroli scent just to be one of the cool kids (like Tom Ford) just doesn't feel very much like the usual meticulous Hermés way of doing things, but this gets a solid neutral for not being unpleasant. Sample and see for yourself.
17th April, 2019
The opening was nice. Interesting, even. But it quickly fades into a weak and boring eau de Cologne. Disappointing.
31st May, 2018
The Kiss - Gustav Klimt - 1907
20th September, 2016
Starts beautifully. It really smells like Colonia from Acqua di Parma for the first minute. After that, it dried to an absolutely horrible powder. All I smelled was powder + powder. Where did the pleasant citrus note go that was first there?

1/10
08th July, 2016
For an established luxury goods producer, the trick to remaining relevant is to promise both the past and the future. The authenticity of heritage and a bright future of previously unimaginable luxury. This two-step is nothing new for Hermès. Their products are exceptional specimens of craft, but their true artistry lies in manipulating perception.

The brand’s Eau de Cologne series shares the standard Hermès bottle with the Hermessence perfumes but come in in bright, lollipop colors, a carefree alternative to the austere pastels of the Hermessence line. They are ‘note-driven’, just like the Hermessence line. (Grapefruit, narcissus, rhubarb for the colognes versus osmanthus, massoïa and paprika for the high-end.) They are effectively a ‘mini-Hermessence’ line.

Hermès tend very carefully to the symbolism of their products. The language surrounding the products might seem nonchalant but the meaning is specific and the intention is unmistakable. When Hermès launch a product, nothing is left to chance. From images of the product to the text describing it to press events, every detail is deliberate. Hermès know how to manipulate the echo chamber effect of the fashion world with an almost scientific precision. Whisper the stories in just the right places and through unquestioning repetition, they become legend.

The concept of Eau de Néroli Doré is not a new one. This strategy, Finery At All Costs, is an unsubtle one in the first place but Hermès have pulled out all the stops. Their claim of using one half of Tunisia and Morocco’s annual neroli production is an undisguised demonstration of both power and crassness. Hermès are apparently capable of putting the northern portion of a continent on hold in order to suit their product design. (And in doing so, hand you a flawless example of post colonial arrogance wrapped up with a bow.)

No theater works without an audience and here Hermès rely on the privilege that they foster in their consumers. Part one of the strategy is the scale of the act: A multinational claim on a material. Part two is the intent, which is to invite its customers to relish the frivolousness. International economies are bent to your whim. So what that an equally good eau de cologne could have been made with less sensationally-sourced, inexpensive materials? You deserve finery at all costs.

Hermès’s sentimental account of a young Jean-Claude Ellena’s learning to distill orange blossom is an attempt to give Eau de Néroli Doré a sincerity, a human scale. In classic cake-and-eat-it-too fashion, Hermès want to alter the economy of nations, but they also want to project a wide-eyed artisanal purity. For all the spin surrounding Eau de Néroli Doré, it can’t beat the perfume truism that any cologne is pretty much as good as any other cologne. It has an olfactory ‘aftertaste’ that undermines the touted neroli. It smells briefly aromatherapeutic and then like a bottle of cologne smashed on sidewalk cement.
21st June, 2016
Cabbage. Bad breath. Mothballs. Utterly ridiculous. My first experience of a scent with neroli in the name. If it weren't for Darvant and rbaker's informative reviews I'd have concluded that neroli is to be avoided like the plague.
10th May, 2016

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