Perfume Directory

Bracken Man (2016)
by Amouage

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Bracken Man information

Year of Launch2016
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 80 votes)

People and companies

HouseAmouage
PerfumerOlivier Cresp
PerfumerFabrice Pellegrin

About Bracken Man

Part of the 'Midnight Flower' collection.

Bracken Man fragrance notes

Reviews of Bracken Man

A gentleman with a refined style.It is the prototype of a classical fougere with nice quality ingredients which are very well blended but to create a real classic fougere one must add to the coumarin note and oakmoss. A green,citrusy freshness, combined with the depth of cloves and patchouli.
a perfume that whispers screams but starts where the delicate notes of fresh gradually give way to spicy and woody.

The bitterness of cypress and bergamot,then suddenly from nowhere were born the floral notes of granium and lavender and only at the end of all this celebration of fireworks were succeeded notes of patchouli,musk and woody notes for men with a passion for beautiful things.the fragrance is aimed at men in quest of subtle elegance and absolute virility.
In fact Initially bitter and pungent then it immediately starts to get smooth and dry,as you get whiffs of the cloves and sandalwood It gets into the woody-spicy zone for a bit still very dry but airy and breezy in a way.The base is warm musk anchoring the patchouli which comes over as a dark brooding oud.

Bracked Man is a mature scent that lets the people around you know that you've arrived.it certainly smells conservative and safe but wearing something this well made is simply a pleasure and bound to attract all kinds of positive attention.suitable for day and night wear.If you like old-school fougeres you have to try this one.

Sillage?Moderate to heavy.

Longevity?Very good on my skin.

6.75/10
12th August, 2020
The concept of a perfume house from Oman stepping into the shoes of the French to make a proper 19th century fougère fragrance - not a mid-century powdery barbershop fougère, a 1970's aromatic fougère, a 1980's musky floral fougère, or a 1990's "fresh" fougère - seems like enough evidence to me that perfume has come full-circle as a universal art form rather than a regional specialty, and I'm glad for it. Amouage isn't just any perfume house from Oman however, they are the official perfume house of the royal family itself, and the preeminent perfumer for the region, reknown globally as a pillar of luxury fragrance that competes with Creed, Roja Dove, Xerjoff, Clive Christian, and others for that market segment. Amouage has history with fougères prior to Bracken Man (2016), as evidenced by Reflection Man (2007) and others before it, but never have they tackled the ur-fougère style until now. At once Bracken recalls Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882), but also a host of others in the same vein like Zino Davidoff by Parfums Davidoff (1986), but adds its own unique oriental flavor and domineering projection that ultimately identifies it as an Amouage creation first, and a fougère second. The word "bracken" itself refers to a type of tall fern that is among the largest and most-prolific type in the world, so it seems clear Amouage aims high by adorning the bottle with a depiction of it.

The key thing that separates Bracken Man from other fougères that would chase the same seminal ground is how it merges the cleaner and greener lines of a traditional fougère with heavier doses of patchouli and spice like the semi-oriental fougères born from the lineage of Pierre Cardin pour Monsieur (1972), which include scents like Santos de Cartier (1981) and Creed Bois du Portugal (1987), but still remains sharp rather than growing puffy around the waist like they sometimes can. Amouage Bracken Man achieves this by using a medicinal lavandin in place of traditional lavender, and using a very camphoraceous patchouli in the base where oakmoss in high volume may have once sat. The lavandin is flanked by bergamot, lemon, sour cypriol, clove, and nutmeg up top, while a heart of geranium and cinnamon maintain that 19th century dandy feel of the originating Houbigant entry. The base is full-on patchouli blast, smoothed by a little oakmoss and sandalwood, dried by cedar, and laced with some musk. The patchouli, clove, and lavandin become the focus of Bracken Man by the end, so you better love them. Wear time is all day, plus this is Amouage so you know how the sillage and projection will be (in other words monstrous), so use carefully. Outside of volume adjustment, I see no reason why Bracken Man couldn't be a year-round signature, but this never a casual wear due to its potentially divisive nature. Maybe there is a bit of 1980's in here after all?

All in all, I'm very impressed by Bracken Man. Sometimes the patchouli can be a bit much, like a milder take on the full-on terpetine smell of Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle "Monsieur." (2015), but luckily the lavandin and geranium really help steer the course, making that patchouli feel like a forest floor rather than a forest fire. Tom Ford would do similar things perhaps patterned after Amouage Bracken Man with Beau de Jour (2019) in the Private Collection (since promoted to main Signature line in 2020), but tempered the camphor of the patchouli by parly using the akigalawood isolate. I like that one a lot too but letting the patchouli just run wild like Amouage did with Bracken Man just feels more fun, and is more true-to-form for a house that tries to come across tantalizingly exotic yet familiar enough to trust. Of course the $300 price tag does not make Amouage Bracken Man a blind buy nor even a casual pick-up unless you're floating in dough, but after some successful sampling, this is one I'd say is worth working towards for fans of both classic fougères and strong patchouli perfumes. With so many Western takes on oud and other Middle East perfume phenomenon, it's nice to see someone from the other side of that fence return the favor by capturing a Western style in a Middle-Eastern way, even if the final product is more challenging than a traditional fougère. Thumbs up.
07th April, 2020
I wasn't sure how I was going to get on with Bracken Man at first, but in the end, I really love it. Immediately, it struck me as a clove fragrance...and not much else. The opening is a spicy fresh wallop of cloves, cloves and more cloves, and it's so intense that it's hard to pick up on any other notes. Of course this is great news if you love cloves, but if you're like me, and need to be in the right mood for them, it may be a little disconcerting. "How can I endure 10 more hours of cloves?" I thought to myself. But fortunately, things slowly begin to change after about half an hour or 45 minutes. While the cloves still remain very much present, other qualities start to peek out and swirl around. A dark green aromatic accord begins to show up in the form of cypress, with warm fir balsam notes pairing with the cloves. It becomes earthier too, with a prominent patchouli note giving you the sense of trees and dirt, perhaps a forest floor or some kind of lush jungle. All of this comes together rather seamlessly by the second hour, and at that point Bracken Man seems alive, with an almost-tangible humidity behind its dark-green earthy aroma. I didn't know what a "bracken" was until now, and learning that it's a tall variety of fern, the name is very fitting as during this stage it smells very much like how I'd imagine the environment you'd find one in. It's very enjoyable at this phase of development, as the fragrance is both interesting in the way it unfolds, but also just a nice masculine, aromatic balsam smell.

It wears like this for a while, at least 3 or 4 complete hours, and then, right before your nose, and seemingly out of nowhere, it takes a sharp 180 degree turn and goes in a completely different direction. Lavender shows up in full force--not a dry, leafy, herbal lavender you might expect, but the pleasantly sweet, well-groomed classic barbershop variety. It's flanked by sandalwood and musk, which provide a creamy sort of warmth, very different than the previous form which was earthy and humid, and suddenly it's the most beautiful, comforting, powdery, barbershop lavender dry down imaginable. I absolutely love this stage, and while I was enjoying the dark green earthy aromatics that had preceded it, I never expected Bracken to wind up where it did, and I was kind of thrilled to find it there in the end. I think of great, powdery barbershop dry downs in fragrances like Invasion Barbare or Prada L'Homme, or 1725 and Sartorial, and I'd put Bracken's right up there with any of them (I may like it even more, though the scent is relatively new to me and I need more time to compare it properly in context with the others). This is more or less Bracken Man's final stage of development, and it lasts at least another 4 solid hours, but probably even more (I counted 6 before I ended up going to bed...and I could still smell it on myself in the morning).

In the end, Bracken Man's really a story of two fragrances. You have the first, which lasts 3 or 4 hours; a clove fronted composition that morphs into a green and earthy, cypress/patchouli aromatic and natural sort of smell, and the second; a lavender loaded barbershop scent that's powdery-smooth and comforting as all get out with a warm sandalwood and musk finish. Both "fragrances" are very nice, and their development (how one seems to spontaneously morph into the other) is true olfactory magic. Longevity is insane, 12 hours plus, and projection is just as it should be--easily noticeable and apparent without feeling too strong and intrusive. To me, Bracken Man can be easily worn as a casual fragrance. Between the earthy, nature smells of its first half, and the relaxed lavender in its second, it's a very comfortable scent. At the same time, it could also work in a formal situation, as the aromatic beginning recalls more traditional masculines (such as Antaeus) while the drydown impresses the clean, well-groomed aura of the classic barbershop fougere. In other words, it's good anytime anywhere. As far as weather goes, it's been doing great for me in cool and cold temperatures, though I haven't had the chance to test it in a warmer climate. I imagine it would work well in spring, but you may run into some issues once temperatures exceed 70. Final rating, an enthusiastic 9/10.

Side Note: It's funny how challenging or bizarre or rough openings can become a really addictive and beloved aspect of a fragrance once you know that what follows it is something you enjoy. Years ago, when I first tried Caron Pour Un Homme, I found its opening of harsh, astringent lavender difficult to digest. But I really enjoyed the soft, relaxing vanilla/lavender combination that ensued once the opening settled down. Eventually, the rough opening became something I craved, my favorite part of the fragrance in fact. Knowing that it would eventually end gave me the ability to enjoy it for what it was. The same sort of thing has occurred here with Bracken Man and it's high-intensity clove-laden start. While I initially didn't like it, and was worried when I thought it was going to dominate the scent, know that I know it lasts only about 30 or 45 minutes, I look forward to it and really enjoy it. Although Bracken's dry down is still my favorite aspect of the scent, I dig the cloves too.
31st December, 2019
This is exactly what is says on the packet.
Fresh and green.
Cypress and cedarwood throughout with the citrus opening fading quickly. Not sure what the origin of the minty fresh vibe is but Lavandin is meant to a more potent variant of lavender.
I am not sure I want to smell fresh and green. Its a bit on the unisex side.
I don't see any similarity to Creed Viking which is fresh yet clearly masculine and not green.
I am not completely decided on this and will update here accordingly. I can confirm it lasts hours!

Fragrance: 7.25/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8/10
14th September, 2019
A houbigant fougere royale tribute, with added clove giving a nod to the bayrum fragrances of the same time period, all rounded out with a heavy dose of damp patchouli. I have to say, the blending here is fabulous, it is so good it brings a modern feel to the whole composition and rejuvenates a sleepy genre. The enjoyable clove in this nearly killed the concept but just as it threatened to do so it quickly dropped off quite spectacularly, the star of the show is the damp patchouli that lingers long into the dry down, I get average to good performance with a close to the body projection, all season and most occasions, if Amouage were planning on doing shaving products then this would be the perfect scent.
10th June, 2019
Wow, a true masculine frag in 2016!!! Who knew? You mean I don't have to settle for the androgynous (almost feminine) Le Male?

This one reminds me of Polo Green from a better day. Original Jaguar also comes to mind. I like the original masculine frags from the 80's. They were all character no fancy notes like vanilla, berry (of any type), melon (of any type), and roses.

The masculine frags were unapologetically in your face. You could smell up the room before you walked into it... They had man notes, man! Cedar, cloves, tobacco, leather, sandalwood... I think that Aramis actually had formaldehyde as one of its notes. Just kidding, but you get the picture. I hope that Versace, Calvin Klein, and Armani read this post and get their s*** together.
29th April, 2019

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