Blackmail (2016)
by Kerosene

Hello, smoke! I don't know why I'm shocked that a fragrance from a line named Kerosene smells so strongly of smoke and fire on initial spray, but this is almost overwhelming to me on first application. There is a little oud in there, but it's hard to get to as it's overpowered by the smoke scent. However, I will say this: my house was struck by lightning and burned down last year and the smell of smoke still brings back Proustian recollection of pain and terror in me: scrambling around to get my possessions as the flames grew around me. My opinions on smoke are not objective: however, unlike Winter of 99 (which I will be reviewing later this week), this smell seems smoke-heavy for me for the first 30 minutes.

The middle notes are a strong improvement to me: a gourmand lushness develops, vanilla and berry begins to edge and blends in seamlessly as the smoke recedes. This happens concurrently with the projection becoming mere embers: which is unfortunate, as this is the highlight. It becomes a skin scent after a few hours.

The sillage is very good (6-7 hours) for my skin, but the projection goes from moderate to almost nonexistent too quickly: just as it's getting good. If you're a smoke lover and a gourmand lover, this may be the scent for you: just be ready for much more of the former and a bit less of the later.

6.5-7/10

Blackmail is my favorite Kerosene fragrance today, and really perfection for someone who both enjoys oud scents and loves gourmand/amber scents.

I can understand why its extremes--a reasonably heavy-handed use of oud but still an abundance of sweetness, overall--could each be a bit overwhelming to fans of more modest fragrances, but I love these extremes, and find them to be worked well with each other, as it leans slightly sweeter than oud-intensive, as would generally be my preference.

The sweetness is also interestingly a great mix of creamy amber, vanilla, and fruits—specifically, mixed berries that lean toward raspberries, mostly. It’s a solid blend, not too fruity or too heavily vanilla-only.

And at least on my skin, it’s strong—very strong—I’d give it a perfect 10 out of 10 as far as performance though it might be a smidge weaker on my skin than, say, the dark Slumberhouse juices (Ore, Jeke, Norne, Sova) or perhaps a couple of Tom Ford Private Blends, but it’s basically perfectly strong. I really only used a modest few sprays from what remains of my original decant from a couple of years ago, considering I’m at work, and it’s still beastly. The Kerosene atomizers are fortunately pretty strong and consistent but not, say, as overwhelming as Creed atomizers.

Blackmail has the peculiarity of only being sold via the boutique of the same name in Austin, TX, and it must be ordered over the phone, as the boutique does not have an online shop. Needless to say, a little added effort is worthwhile if you love the fragrance as much as I do. And $140 for 100ml remains a great price for what generally are pretty strong perfumes from the Kerosene line.

This is a superlative fragrance, a nod to both gourmand- and oud-lovers, and a fun, bold expression that reminds me why I love fragrances so much.

10 out of 10