Perfume Directory

Lui (2017)
by Guerlain

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Lui information

Year of Launch2017
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 29 votes)

People and companies

HouseGuerlain
PerfumerDelphine Jelk
PerfumerThierry Wasser
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About Lui

Lui is a shared / unisex perfume by Guerlain. The scent was launched in 2017 and the fragrance was created by perfumers Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk

Lui fragrance notes

  1. Top Notes
  2. Heart Notes
  3. Base notes

Reviews of Lui

Beyond its emphasis on smoky vanilla, Lui doesn't feel particularly connected to Guerlain's history; smoky vanilla this may have, but there's no real Guerlinade here.

But it does feel more classic than contemporary, with its carnation and clove and vanilla gesturing in the direction of such accomplished scents as Caron's Third Man. We might say it's a bit of classic French elegance filtered through contemporary abstraction.

There's a beguiling, enigmatic aspect to Lui in its early stages; the pear is almost ghostly, and the dry, dusty clove and vanilla creeps in like a fog. It's not especially sweet or gourmandish, instead more like a potpourri with a harvest-time aroma.

There's an air of relaxed romance present in Lui, courtesy of its inviting coziness and lack of pretense or formality. It's a scent that's utterly at ease with itself, accomplished but with no desire to trumpet its own accomplishment.

I must give credit where credit is due to Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk. In Lui, they've made something very special.
02nd May, 2020
Light airy pear clove benzoin. Leather drydown. It is a very light wear, in my eyes it leans feminine. Well blended and of obvious quality. It goes down to neutral from Up because of its light nature. I like a little more body.
06th October, 2019
Lui opens with a dusty, almost smoked clovey/light fruit combination that quite caught me off guard. I didn’t get much of the listed pear note in the opening, which is probably a good thing.

This ashy, dry spice (clove/carnation) structure offsets the underlying sweetness beautifully, so the composition never comes off as overwhelming or "thick" - but it has a definite, extended presence. The evolution is not extreme: Lui comes across as a dry-sweet, lightly spicy leather/benzoin scent from top to bottom, with more spice and smoke on top, and dusty, almost papery, leathery benzoin on the bottom.

In general attitude/vibe, I am reminded somewhat of Arsen Lupin Dandy. Add some smoke and spice to that suedy leather, and you’d maybe have something like this. Fairly unique in today's market, Lui is satisfying, versatile and unique. Thumbs up!
31st May, 2018
An interesting combination of vanilla and greens. Lui has a lot of the dna of L'Instant Pour Homme, notably the mix of vanilla and vetiver and Guerlain's signature sweet pea note. But then it's also got a lot of ethyl maltol, that candied toasted nut cigar smell, as well as a shot of papery tobacco leaf. The end result is nice, the mix of greens and that roasted smell over the marshmallowy vanilla works better than I'd have expected - this could have been a Pink Sugar nightmare, but the greens go a long way to prevent that and land Lui in specifically Guerlain territory. That being said, I'd still pick L'Instant over this, and I think Cologne du 68 does what Lui (and L'Instant, for that matter) does with much more panache and complexity.
15th March, 2018
I finally got my hands on this and here we go:

To begin with, I will state that this is my first full wearing, and I may feel the need to come back and update.

The first time I sprayed the fragrance was in the store while making the purchase, and the sales associate had just got in the shipment with only one box, my box of LUI. Along with the SA, and a customer at the Guerlain counter(Neiman Marcus, Denver) we were all eager to smell it.

Now don't get me wrong it smells great, however, I will second the notion that a spray on paper, or a judgement of the top notes does not due this gem any favors.

I will spoil a bit early that I love the fragrance, but did not get that "wow" first impression I was hoping for from the listed notes, I needed a bit of time with it to understand her(though it is "unisex" and I am a man.)

Please, please everyone, wait for the dry-down. This is where, IMO, the fragrance really expresses itself.

All of the remaining comments are to be read understanding that the entire scent lives relatively within an elbows length to the skin, but ebbs and flows constantly. I am writing this after almost 8 hours of spraying

Breakdown:

In the opening I am enveloped in an almost powder like feeling, which I come to realize is actually more of a fine ashen dust than it is powder like you would get from iris. It most certainly is not that. It is an ashen dusty spice that is giving you textures through your nose. I've now seen that pear is listed in the top notes, and we'll get to that, but to start with, I feel I am experiencing the mealiness of the pear as a texture in the clove-spicy ashes.

What is beautiful, is that the fragrance keeps hinting that it's not yet finished revealing itself, and this seems to come on quickly so you don't lose patience.

Next you will get the most beautiful carnation, and for those of you that really like benzoin, I will tell you that the way these two elements play off of each other, is a hint of the magic you will get through the life of the fragrance. It is absolutely gorgeous! That same base, for me, is what revealed the leather, just when I was falling into the softness of the carnation-resin treat...the rest begins.

All of the rest of the notes start pouring in, but in traditional Guerlain fashion, they are all blended so smoothly. A soft leather and deep woods, incense, more ash, now the freshness from the pear, clean musk, back to the spice, and then some vanilla. This scent is awesome!

As I said this was now 8 hours ago, and while it has become a skin scent, when I started writing this, I was reminded to leave the review by the wafts I was still getting of the leathery-carnation-benzoin-incense that was still floating around when walked back in from the cold.

I hope you all like it as much as I do.

-This was written in October of 2017, but I edited to clear a typo.-
08th January, 2018 (last edited: 07th December, 2018)
Lui is fragrance running counter to the market trend (unlike Mon Guerlain, which has taken up the baton of the market trend). Lui is subtle.

I applied a heavy dose, and felt somewhat anosmic to it at first, but it eventually warmed its way into my affections, eventually smelling like a sweet, smoky vetiver, although I see now that vetiver isn't listed, so make that woods.

I got great longevity from it, and was excited that Guerlain had produced something this nice.
23rd December, 2017

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