Perfume Directory

Fleur de Peau (2018)
by Diptyque


Fleur de Peau information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 30 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerOlivier Pescheux
Parent CompanyManzanita

About Fleur de Peau

Fleur de Peau is a shared / unisex perfume by Diptyque. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux

Fleur de Peau fragrance notes

Reviews of Fleur de Peau

A really nice take on iris, and my favorite Diptyque since 2016's Kimonanthe.

What I like about Peau is that it uses ambrette, which is usually very chilly (Chanel No. 18 is a good example), but manages to make it feel warm. I'm guessing that it's a soapy/ambrox base that's warding off the chill, but there's also a pinch of fruit and a slight hint of almond that makes things appear more woody than nutty.

I think you'd have to be an iris obsessive to really tell this apart from all the irises out there now, but I AM an iris obsessive, so I'm loving this...
11th June, 2020
Clean flowers and woody, pencil-shavings iris in the opening. That iris continues into the heart of the scent, lasting for many hours. The drydown is a clean, slightly sweet laundry musk.

I agree with unisex on this, could go either way.

This is one of those scents that hangs in the air without feeling heavy.

I get good projection and 8-9 hours longevity.
16th March, 2020
Here’s the thing with clean musks – no matter how you dress them, eventually it will be that whiter than white, thoroughly washed (and washed out?) quality that will prevail. If you’re really unlucky, you’ll be anosmic to them soon after application and miss much of the uplift they can provide. But despite the great similarity among clean musk perfumes – how much variation can one get from white on white? – there are some that to my nose are like Goldilocks’s perfect bowl of porridge, just right. One of those is Tola’s ruinously expensive Misk Begum which sparkles with the coolest aldehydic floral and green notes, and now I am pleased to have found another in Fleur de Peau.
The first thing that will envelope your senses on wearing Fleur de Peau is that billowy, clean musk, something that in my mind smells like how cirrus clouds look. Slowly accents of pepper and perhaps crushed coriander seed peek through the mist, mere glints no more, with the main theme of iris emerging so deftly that it is perfectly blended with the musk. This iris is slightly chalky, a bit like lipstick and carrot shavings, but it is tender, tender, tender; there’s no fattiness to it, this is smooth and foamy stuff. Fleur de Peau makes me feel like I’m luxuriating in a tub-full of lather whipped up from those creamy white soaps that my mum always went for.
So far so good, but I must end with a warning – as with all white musk perfumes, the law of diminishing returns applies. The nose becomes quickly familiar with them and the ‘Oh wow’ sensation is ever in danger of changing to ‘Ho-hum’. My answer to this problem is to leave several days between wears, so that old friends can still feel new.
27th March, 2019
This opens with a drier Grappa than the Chanel 18. A blast of Carrot has the Iris just a little larger than life, I suppose to attract the "American" palate. Remarkable also, is the power of the Powder, which is presented, as a contained explosion.
JTD is correct in that structure is similar to, turning the page of a Picture Book to reveal a brilliant subject, with only whispers of the other notes. Gentle Musky Rose appears, opaquely, around the edge, for me.
I expect broad North American appeal as the lay upon the skin is somewhat Vintage "Tide" clean.
The drydown has telltale signs of Givaudan WAC, however, that, does not get in the way of the "Delightful" story.
Fits nicely in my wardrobe,between the 18 and Feu Secret.
27th October, 2018
Dyptique’s Fleur de Pear was released about a year after Le Cri de la Lumière and is also based on an ambrette accord. If I had to characterize the difference between the two, Le Cri stems from the overlapping of its notes and accords and Fleur de Pear is build from a sequence of consecutive musk accords that appear one after the other. Convergence. Divergence. Two different approaches to ostensibly similar accords.

Fleur de Peau moves very differently than Le Cri. Wearing it is like strolling from room to room in a large house. Each musk is joined to the next in a chain. The top note is a papery iris. Then a starchy musk à la Mugler Cologne. Then a grainy pear, then shoe polish, then waxy skin. No accord goes away entirely, but they don’t merge. They just reappear periodically. This olfactory junket is captivating in that it’s so meticulous and methodical. It’s not just the aromas that oscillate, it’s the tones. The iris is cry and crinkly, the rose is sheer, the pear is grainy, the skin note is fatty and waxy. The accords maintain their edges and don’t bleed into each other. They simply rotate.

Diptyque’s ambrette is more animalic than Perfume d’Empire’s and it’s very human. The Diptyque ventures much further into the sweaty-skin facet of ambrette, which can make the perfume seem a bit odd as it moves from sweat to laundry soap to floral bouquet. If you tune in closely to the perfumes fluctuations, though, it’s compelling.

The specificity of the composition creates an interesting opportunity for perfume critics. The fluctuation of the perfume, its progression through distinct olfactory territories creates the opportunity to consider composition without referring to formula per se. It can be described in terms of its qualities and can be analyzed based on its dynamics. Any perfume can be viewed this way, but Fleur de Peau lends itself particularly well to this approach.

27th June, 2018
Stardate 20180503:

One of my favourites this year.
Musky Rosy Iris. I dont think many have tried to make this combination.
Dior's Gris Montaigne has the similar musk-rose accord but is more loud. The iris in P'eau mutes the accord and gives it a soft glow.
I wish they had use the more animalic musk instead of the white one. But I will take it.
Performance is excellent - which is expected from Diptyque.

03rd May, 2018

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