Perfume Directory

Fontevraud (2018)
by Bruno Fazzolari for LuckyScent


Fontevraud information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
(based on 12 votes)

People and companies

HouseBruno Fazzolari
Created ForLuckyScent
PerfumerBruno Fazzolari

About Fontevraud

Created to celebrate 15 years of Lucky Scent

The company say:

Inspired by The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud, a 900 year-old french monastery that was the burial place of Eleanor of Aquitane and Henry II. After the revolution it was transformed into a prison that became the setting for Jean Genet’s autobiographical novel, The Miracle of the Rose.

Fontevraud fragrance notes

Reviews of Fontevraud

Maybe I'm not as familiar with the smell of guava as I thought, but I swear the very opening this smells more like a very tart and unripe passionfruit to me. I do not enjoy the early opening (first 10-15 min) at all. The tart tropical fruit note, whatever it may be, is important later on - but out of the bottle, it's shouty and shrill.

Thankfully, that note smooths out over the first hour or so, and I start to enjoy it quite a bit. The tart-tropical note still dominates in a more restrained way, and is joined by a demure rose note that I have to concentrate on to pick up.

What I did not expect and am pleasantly surprised by is the big whallop of bitter, dry moss that enters the scene. It has some serious bite, and is backed by a bone dry, spiced resinous ambery accord. The effect is almost incensey to me - very dry - an unexpected and welcome quality in a "tropical" composition. This basic accord comes to dominate for me, and a couple of hours in, the tropical opening is just present enough to lend an laid-back exotic flair where this might otherwise feel a little austere. I find the rose and patchouli notes be very light, and serve more to lend kind of chewy/earthy feel to the base.
29th March, 2019
Bruno Fazzolari Fontevraud, his limited edition creation for Luckyscent's 15th anniversary, defies categorization. The note list is a curious mix: bergamot, guava, pear, rose, oakmoss, opoponax, patchouli, amber.

For me, the opening to first hour is sharper, characterized more by more oakmoss and patchouli with the bergamot, but the dry down thereafter is a fruity rose mix featuring the guava/pear combination, curious choices, neither of which are my favorite fruit by a long shot, but they work well together here. The result is a dry down that's very pleasant and waers well, particularly for those that the dig the fruity rose subgenre.

Performance is solid, fitting for a year-round scent that has some bass to it in terms of the notes. Pricing is higher than BF's usual $110 for 30ml, instead boasting a $145 for 30ml, but that's expected of a limited edition, and frankly, like his other creations, Fontevraud is unique enough that it merits attention.

Thus far, Five and Ummagumma remain my favorites from his lineup and the only two that I've given serious consideration to buying full bottles of, but Fontevraud is near both of those. It's quirky to the point those looking for something new and unique should definitely check it out. I'm not sure it's quite right for me, personally, but I appreciate the art in it.

7 out of 10
09th July, 2018
Fazzolari calls his new perfume, “a celebration of the ancient and the contemporary” and names it Fontevraud, after a serially repurposed abbey in France. It is produced in a very limited run (50 bottles) in celebration of Los Angeles’s famed perfume retailer LuckyScent/ScentBar’s 15th anniversay. Combining a chypre with a fruity floral is a logical old/new combination, but as with Fontevraud Abbey’s cortège from monestery to prison to UNESCO World Heritage Site, Fazzolari’s Fontevraud is neither expected nor obvious. I’ll admit I had reservations when I saw the list of notes, which includes guava, rose and pear. Visions of Sophia Grosjman’s Calyx for Prescriptives came to mind. A gorgeous perfume, but perhaps the most hyperbolic fruity chypre ever made.

A chypre is not a new undertaking for Fazzolari, who previously nailed the genre with the voluptous Au Delà/Narcisse and the gleaming Seyrig, but true to his claim Fazzolari devises something new. Most attempts to resuscitate the genre try to fill in the hole left after oakmoss and all the other noxious materials were dug out. They shovel in patchouli, laundry musks and PR bullshit about how authentic the perfume is. But they’re counterfeit and they smell forged. The effort of wearing them without feeling like a fraud is too much for me.

Fazzolari punks us all by creating one of the mossiest perfume in recent history that doesn’t actually smell like a traditional chypre. Fontevraud uses the chypre’s compositional configuration as a starting place to build a perfume with a texture different than either the time-honored or spurious versions. It focuses on the material’s resinous facets more than its inky and smokey qualities and lends itself to darker hues like dry fruit and spicy balsams.

Rose chypres were known for their brassiness. The outspokenness of the flower often gave the perfumes hulking presences. Rose is seeded throughout Fontevraud, from top to base and from resinousness to fruitiness, but I feel as if I see it through a mirror. Visible, apparent but just out of reach no matter how close. Rose lines the whole perfume and carries a big stick but doesn’t push its way to the front. It’s a great way to tame a big note without actually declawing it.

Fruit is another common chypre component but guava and pear are unorthodox picks. Fazzolari plays both fruits against type. He avoids the predictable tropical clichés of guava by giving it a dark edge. It’s as if he compresses the fruit’s distinctive redolence into a compact shape and, while it smells like guava, it smells dark, almost bitter. On the tree or in the kitchen pear’s distinctive sweet scent really only comes forward when the fruit is ripe. Before that it smells more woody than fruity. Fontevraud plays on the woody facet of pear by emphasizing the sharp, almost vinegary taste of the skin of the fruit. Fontevraud’s pear appears within the first minute that the perfume is applied but the reveal is somewhat startling. A mineralic opening segues into a mushroom note (Fazzolari says it’s a function of opoponax) which in turn becomes a grainy pear note. It’s a surprising transition that took me a few wearings to wrap my head around but now I give myself a minute or so after applying Fontevraud just to get taken for the ride. It’s a blast.

The fruit tones that Fazzolari comes up with are unexpected but appealing and he has played fruit against type before. Monserrat uses a peach/grapefruit/osmanthus accord to create one of the more sophisticated fruity-florals you’ll find. Unsettled‘s smoky, buttery pineapple manages to be sultry without relying on the simple olfactory language of pineapple=tropical=exotic. Fazzolari calls Fontevraud bright but I disagree. By turning such uninhibited fruits into introverts and creating a reticent rose he designs a stylishly dark perfume that works for the same reason a little black dress or a tuxedo works. It’s impeccable and has a sexy silhouette.

27th June, 2018
Stardate 20180527:

Caron Third Man with synth guava note. I expect better from Bruno.

Guava is such a wonderful fruit. I grew up with a Guava tree in my yard. This fragrance is not guava.

Also I am not a fan of third man so this is a big pass.
27th May, 2018

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