Perfume Directory

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur (2018)
by IFF


Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production / Limited Edition
Average Rating
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People and companies

PerfumerCaroline Dumur

About Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur

The company say:

The perfumers of IFF thrive on creative challenges. This is what inspired Speed Smelling™, a scented variation on speed dating. 14 perfumers have less than 7 minutes to seduce the most exacting of juries: the best fragrance editors and bloggers in France. This 2017 Speed Smelling Postmodern collection uses irony, a characteristic of the postmodern movement, breaking codes to better reconstruct them, and for the IFF perfumers to freely exercise their talents as olfactory artists.

Anatomy of a carnation. But under the pressure of modernity, a cocktail of orris, ylang, and black and pink peppers are added. Carnation is thus renewed, as well as transgendered.

Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur fragrance notes

Reviews of Speed Smelling 2017 Postmodern Collection : Caroline Dumur

A fresh spicy floral, maybe genarium? Synthetic, but recognizable as a floral for sure. It smells simple, brisk and soapy. I'm reminded of the tone of Diptyque's Geranium Odorata, but a more spicy and clovey/peppery. So maybe carnation instead of geranium, or a mix of the two. (According to the card, it is indeed intended to be carnation).

There's a clean woody/musky/incensey backbone. The floral feeling fades and spicy-incense aspect comes to the fore. It feels very composed and market-ready, and could totally see this coming from a house that specializes in simple, honest Diptyque. I like this one and could wear it easily in a variety of venues.
07th January, 2019
Caroline Dumur's proposal for 2017's Speed Smelling is a modernized carnation, with a seeming main catch of getting around the severely limited usage of eugenol, one of the major components in clove as well as in a traditional carnation accord of perfumery.

Because the carnation flowers that I'm familliar with smell almost like powdered clove to me, and because Dumur replaced eugenol with black and pink pepper, I would not describe this fragrance as a realistic carnation, but a transposed one.

The fragrance is mostly a linear affair, but meticulously constructed. A silky floral heart of rose and ylang ylang is the central pairing to my nose, hightlighting the former's honeyed suavity and tart wine-like aftertaste, as well as the later's banana peel-like duality of green astringency and sweet creaminess. The sparkles of aldehyde provide a refreshing lift to the flowers, while a subtle puff of iris powder lend a certain sophistication.

The peppers being more woody and less fiery than clove, create a cooler, sleeker personality than the warmer, more enveloping traditional carnation, and indeed more modern. But I also occasionally detect a discreet mossy woody undertone reminiscent of a very faint isobutylquinoline that pulls me back to a more classic setting, although I don't know if it's actually used or an olfactory illusion of powder, rose's greenness and other woody elements.

Among the 14 entries of 2017's Speed Smelling, Dumur's "modern carnation" is one of my favourites, and one that I'm most inclined to purchase as it is. On the surface, it's pretty straightforward as a composition, but the different facets of floral rotate and glitter with time, contributing to its natural sensation while still maintaining a clarity and accomdating to modern taste, which I find quite successful. Here's hoping that it will be released as a fragrance itself or as a main accord of a fragrance one day.

09th November, 2018
This one opens big and peppery with some very light floral nuances and a heavy dose of cedary pencil shavings. I’d say that the floral notes don’t particularly stand out to me individually except for the iris upon initial spray, but the carnation accord that’s in here reminds me of the one that’s present in Aramis: Havana. Ever so slightly metallic, green, and very open/airy. As it dries down you start to get more of the ylang ylang, but it is fleeting at best and really seems like it exists only to add a slight amount of floral muskiness to the middle stages of the fragrance. The dry down to this one is a very open/airy, light green floral.
11th September, 2018
Stardate 20180626:

Starts with a blast of peppers. Nice strong but not overpowering. Soon develops into a soft floral with subtle pepper background. I get Iris and some orange blossoms. Maybe some white musk.
I like it
27th June, 2018
This scent was an experiment to create a rich, believable carnation accord, which is a particularly tricky note to accurately represent. Apparently, carnation isn't (can't be?) naturally extracted so it is instead typically represented in perfumes by combining rose with eugenol. I ran into this issue recently when I sampled Vetiverus from Oliver & Co, and I couldn't for the life of me understand why it had such a potent herbal note to it that I identified as cloves. Cloves were not listed as a note but with a little further research I found that eugenol can present as cloves. So for anyone whose nose is more sensitive to eugenol, the two elements won't combine properly to produce carnation. That made it particularly impressive that Dumur produced such a believable carnation here. She put together a cocktail of floral elements and spices to produce what to my nose was a wholly accurate carnation scent. It was like having a corsage of carnation on my wrist. Not that I’ve ever had a corsage of carnation on my wrist. Well, now it's like I have had a corsage of carnation on my wrist so I can't say that any longer. The carnation had a nice longevity with little variation over time but still impressive nonetheless.
17th May, 2018

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