Pour Un Homme L'Eau (2018)
by Caron

The good thing about Caron Pour Un Homme L'Eau is that it's the true-to-the-original, lighter L'Eau we've all been waiting for. While I enjoy Sport and think that it's well made, it was quite a departure from CPUH and probably not what most people were expecting. L'Eau remains true to form, comprised mainly of the same sort of lavender/vanilla combination as the original, only made much lighter and with some additional citrus notes that make it more of a warm weather option. Indeed, this is a lighter, airier, more watery version of the original, with soft citrus notes infused throughout and a cooling, partly mineralic/earthy geranium twist laid over the same green, herbal lavender of the original As it develops, L'eau takes on something of a more dry, ozonic air with a warm, salty accent, most likely a result of the ambergris that's listed in its pyramid. There are times when this dry saltiness almost comes across smoky, and it's a unique quality to L'Eau--one aspect which helps give it distinction and personality. In fact the entire scent, despite its lightness and airy structure, is quite distinct. The embellishments that have been added while creating L'Eau do enough to give it its own profile and personality while never straying to far from the theme of the original. And just like the original, everything concludes in a base of soft vanilla, a smooth, easy landing that's comforting and relaxing.

I think real fans of the original and die-hard fragrance enthusiasts are going to appreciate this, though I could see there being one main issue with the more mainstream crowd---it's very light. There will no doubt be some complaints about both projection and longevity, as this is a very airy, and at times subtle fragrance. At its peak, L'Eau projects about 1 foot off the skin, though it does create a pleasant sillage when it catches the air. It's all but a skin scent in about 5 hours. For some, this will not be enough, but as a lighter option to CPUH, at least to me, this really seems like the perfect execution of the concept.

Just to review, L'Eau is an airier, citrus-infused, salty-ambergris-tinged, dry-ozonic and at times even waterier version of the original, with a cooling/earthy geranium accent and overall a much lighter, diffusive density. It's very well done although it may be too light for those expecting something with more power and presence. For true fans of the original who like the idea of a lighter, l'eau option, I recommend this as a blind buy--it will most likely satisfy your expectations and maintain the essence of the original. For others, who are just casual fans of CPUH, I recommend sampling this first. While it's very good, it may be perceived as "weak" by some. Thumbs up, and a final solid rating of 8/10.

First the bad news. Instead of striking out in a new direction for their masculine range Caron have just launched their fourth flanker of Pour un Homme.

On the other hand, the good news: 1) it's better then the last two efforts and 2) composed by a new perfumer William Fraysse (no doubt the son of the previous incumbent).

The perfume itself is the old lavender and amber classic given a contemporary makeover. The lavender now has a fresh juicy twist with lime and a peppery aquatic and the amber has been paired with ambergris which - with its salty aquatic and fatty aspects cleverly ties in with the changes in the head. There is a geranium note in the middle that hints at fougère, but the most interesting part is the addition of an all new burnt caramellic, dusty-woody vetiver and sweet powdery base. This represents a departure from the old formula that works nicely. There's also woody amber in the dry down even if it is quite discrete - for once, but technically that also makes it a spiky wood...

With hindsight the effect is a bit predictable. L'Eau is Pour un Homme for the 21st century. It targets young men, fed up with lamentable teen frags who want something mature but not Fogeyish. It's like Caron are trying to position this as a entry point to a more sophisticated style of masculine. A weaner frag, if you like.

Another thing about l'Eau is it feels a bit overstated. Perhaps this is a consequence of the strain put on the structure as it's bent out of shape, or perhaps it's more to do with the expectations placed on the newbie, but it feels like a demonstration piece designed to showcase a rookie's talent.

But credit where it's due. The new base fits the profile nicely, showing that William Fraysse has learnt the structure inside out. This is no cut and paste job with a few novelties thrown in but a fully reworked composition that (with the caveat that it's been touched up with a grab bag of different motifs) doesn't offend the spirit of the original.

In the long term l'Eau may turn out to be just another flash in the pan flanker, but if it acts as a gateway to the original (which seems to be Caron's strategy) then so much the better.

In the short term however, its significance is more positive. With a new perfumer at the controls the worst of Caron's problems may be coming to an end. It's too early to say right now but l'Eau does give grounds for cautious optimism.

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