Perfume Directory

Le Canotier (2018)
by Rogue Perfumery

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Le Canotier information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 19 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About Le Canotier

Le Canotier is a shared / unisex perfume by Rogue Perfumery. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Manuel Cross

Reviews of Le Canotier

I've worn Le Canotier on three consecutive days (sample now ended) as I wasn't sure I was getting the full picture. Day 3 confirmed this - let me explain.

On the first two days of wearing, I was getting some citrus and violet but not a lot else. Nice quality, but that's it. On day two, a hint of some dry woods, perhaps guaiac or even oud. Today, though, I at last perceived the vetiver and I think the concept became clear. First, though, I'm at a loss to explain the different experiences on these three days. Perhaps some of the heavier notes needed time to settle after decanting? Plausible, I think, but I've never had this before.

So from reviewing the Day 3 version, by far the best rendition, it's a vetiver with pleasant additions, very much as Jack describes. On this basis, it puts me in mind of my favourite Root of all Goodness, by Parterre, but LC, good as it is, is not going to displace that any time soon. And I have to say, for a scent that lists ambergris, moss, and tobacco, they're extremely subtle if there at all. I do wish I had a large bottle with a proper atomiser to continue testing, as when the vetiver makes an appearance, it's really very good, but I doubt that will happen in the foreseeable.
28th April, 2020 (last edited: 14th May, 2020)
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Le Canotier opens with a slightly bracing, bitter-green orange bergamot and violet leaf tandem before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart, the sharp-green violet leaf recedes but remains, now joining dulled orange in support of an emerging lemon-like woody vetiver that takes the fore. During the late dry-down the composition development stays relatively linear as the vetiver remains the star, only softening slightly as time passes as the violet leaf vacates to reveal an underlying mild, natural smelling tobacco leaf in support through the finish. Projection is outstanding, as is longevity at well over 15 hours on skin.

Le Canotier is somewhat of a departure from most of the Rogue offerings by talented perfumer Manuel Cross. While most of the line focuses on compositions of the past, with many the *distant* past... Le Canotier feels quite modern in style and structure by comparison. I can see how one going into smelling the composition expecting a more classical structure based on the others in the line could walk away surprised and disappointed by the perfume, but this writer finds the sharp, lemony vetiver-centric modern perfume to be quite compelling and intoxicating regardless. The perfumer's deft use of the supporting blonde tobacco to take a bit of the edge off the vetiver as time passes is a particularly interesting and wholly successful choice, with the combination working well when sniffed up close on skin, but even more effective in the sillage. The bottom line is the $110 per 60ml bottle Le Canotier may be a stark departure for perfumer Cross, but in no way an unwelcome one, earning an "excellent" to "outstanding" 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 rating, and an easy recommendation.
14th December, 2019
From the top I get a citrus infused vetiver that is also woody with hints of tobacoo, violet and ambergris. You get this interesting blend of notes straight away all blended and intertwined very smoothly. It smells very nice and it also has a good dose of oakmoss with a hint of white florals. It's quite complex and like a vetiver scent that you always wanted to be more interesting. Well here you have it with blended with a lot of agreeable notes.

06th November, 2019
Jungle, sweet greenery. Not overly bitter citrus. Masculine, to start.
Smoky, more green, as in green tobacco leaves in the early stages of drying.
This fragrance is difficult to describe. It's just straight up, well done!
I later get some earthy, forest green. Also some seaside accord. Clean ocean. No shitty, rotting seaweed smell.
It IS a manly scent. Ladies with open minds could wear this well.

It reminds me of a cologne my father wore in the 1970's.
26th August, 2019
This opens with bitter citrus, & green notes of violet leaf & vetiver. I also get a smidge of a "turned" note, but not for long. The first hour is dominated for me by the vetiver, a note I don't enjoy in heavy concentrations, & reads to me as decidedly masculine. After this, the citrus fades away & the vetiver takes a smokier turn, before being joined by tobacco & a pronounced ambergris note. I don't get any florals here, but two hours into the drydown the smoke & salty ambergris combine to make things more enjoyable. Later on there's a metallic tang, & seven hours in, a faint sweetness just as it all fades out. The projection is good for most of its duration.
This one is not for me, but I think anyone who loves a smoky vetiver should try it.
19th June, 2019
ROGUE – LE CANOTIER (2018)

Vile! This is a scrubber. Harsh bitter oud – period. None of the notes listed are detectable to my nose and I am a big fan of vetiver, jasmine and tobacco.

I can’t get past that one nasty note. It’s like inhaling ammonia. No, I take that back. Ammonia is more fragrant.

Both my husband and myself ran for the scrub brush, but it won’t budge. It’s going to take growing new skin cells to rid ourselves of it.

An insult to the nose.
10th May, 2019

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