Perfume Directory

Derviche (2018)
by Rogue Perfumery

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Derviche information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 35 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About Derviche

Derviche is a shared / unisex perfume by Rogue Perfumery. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Manuel Cross

Reviews of Derviche

Derviche starts off effectively medicinal and kind of apothecarian in order to morph down (relatively) quickly in to a fantastic musky/floral accord of leather and perfumed tobacco leaf. Leather is the main theme and this dominant element smells finally smooth, velvety and suedish. I get resins and animalic patterns along the way. Olibanum in particular is initially detectable on skin. Olibanum is perfectly connected with animalic musk/labdanum, amber, woods and medicinal hesperides in order to exude a wonderful retrò and stuffy atmosphere (like breathing the "mouldy aura" of an old parisian attic full of old books, pipe-tobacco smoke, decrepit fornitures, "potpourry flower pots" and vintage stuffs). Spices, probably dried fruits, vanilla and leather provide effectively this weird final "cherry accord" which is vaguely floral and definitely suedish. Dry down is smooth, natural and intimate, like a quite pleasant floral/suedish olfactory pearl. Suede is well rounded, vaguely rubbery and woody (for a refined combinaton of perfumed tobacco and mild - vaguely pencil-shavings - wood). Derviche is my second Rogue-experience after Tabac Vert and I have to say that my impression is completely positive (this is a super refined suedish-accord civilized by musks, delicate jasmine, vanilla and soft resins, not a complex accord but something incredibly balanced, discreet and well crafted). I detect a vague resemblance with Ambre Narguile but Derviche is definitely woodier and smoother (with its delicate touch of soothing vanilla. Vanilla, supported by musks, is the amalgamative factor connecting all together the diverse elements).
02nd September, 2020
Derviche starts off in a slightly medicinal fashion, but soon moves into the territory where it stays thereafter: cherry tobacco with a definite "red" theme, as reviewers have already noted. For these reasons, it reminds me of a more cultured version of CK One Shock, with elements of Guillaume thrown in: certainly Aube Pashmina (for its vegetal sheen) and Naiviris (for its red iris) come to mind. Not sure I would buy this over tobacco-themed stablemate Tabac Vert, but this is pleasant and a grower once you've come to terms with it. It has excellent longevity and a terrific, comforting drydown which has received positive noises in the FWF household.
18th May, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Derviche opens with just a hint of nose tingling orange bergamot, combining with much more substantial relatively sweet starring amber-like labdanum rising from the base with a supporting cherry pipe tobacco accord underpinning it before gradually moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the amber-like relatively sweet labdanum and now deepening pipe tobacco accord remain now as co-stars, as the the labdanum adds a leather-like facet to the mix along with supporting gentle warm saffron spice and subtle hints of floral jasmine. During the late dry-down, the composition remains linear as it eschews some of its early sweetness and the jasmine floral, as a mildly sweet vanilla and soft woody sandalwood tandem in the base gradually emerges and takes the fore, coupling with remnants of the labdanum and pipe tobacco remaining from the heart now in a supporting role through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity excellent at over 12 hours on skin.

It took me a bit of time to completely come around to Derviche. The early amber-like sweetness comes off a tad synthetic smelling and a touch too sweet for this writer's aversion to sweet compositions. That said, the ambery labdanum calms down as time passes as the pleasant smelling pipe-like tobacco accord takes hold. While the composition is pretty linear so changes happen very gradually, the subtle emergence of the less sweet vanilla and sandalwood from the base sneaks up on the wearer as a nice surprise that almost goes unnoticed and ultimately clinches the deal. While I doubt Derviche will go down as perfumer Cross' best work, when viewed as a relatively straightforward ambery sweet pipe tobacco and vanilla composition, it is a successful one that is hard to dislike and much easier to fall in love with, as I did. The bottom line is the $150 per 100ml bottle Derviche may not show off Mr. Cross' immense talent like the much more complex Chypre-Siam does, but for what it is, the composition is an addictive and successful relatively sweet pipe tobacco focused "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rated perfume that is recommended in particular to lovers of compositions like Tobacco Vanille, but want a bit more complexity.
29th December, 2019 (last edited: 30th December, 2019)
Imagine if Hypnotic Poison gave up working as a stripper, went back to school, got her law degree, and bought herself a wardrobe by Prada.

Then you wouldn't be afraid to take her home to meet your parents.

28th November, 2019
Whirling Dirvish, indeed! Images of middle eastern or near-far eastern markets filled with dark, rich scents, colors, and sounds. Resinous. Deep. Heady. Sultry aromas here. I am particularly drawn to the labdanum, olibanum, and musky, sensual, animalic things. Soft, floral, vanilla things. New, soft leather. Unisex, leaning better towards feminine, in an adventurous way.
Finely crafted, smells so Real, without all the crap out there these days (I am Not being a snob here). This, is one of the finest "oriental-style" fragrances I have experienced in many years.
There is a vague forest-like and, cherry candy thick accord, going on here later. It. Just. Gets. Better. Always resinous and smooth.
More of a candied amber accord with time. Well done!!
03rd September, 2019
For me this is primarily a sweet tobacco scent, very reminiscent of Dusita's Issara, with its sheer, fresh yet earthy, hay-like sweetness. There's a minty note up top, which, combined with the animalic notes of musk & civet beneath, reminds me of the construction of Kouros, being both fresh & dirty at the same time, although the overall scent is quite different. I get a touch of leather, & then the vanilla sweetness begins to build, until two hours in the tobacco has faded & the base is powdery amber with a hint of heliotrope. The projection is low on me, from the three hour mark it's very soft indeed, & five hours in it's pretty much gone.
I don't detect any floral notes here, & while there is a passing resemblance to Ambre Narguile, this one isn't quite as gourmand to my nose. It is my kind of oriental though, & definitely my favourite from this house, although I'd prefer greater projection & longevity. I think perhaps spraying would show it off to fuller advantage, but as I tried it as part of a sample pass, I didn't want to risk using up too much of the little dabber vial.
19th June, 2019

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