Perfume Directory

Derviche (2018)
by Rogue Perfumery


Derviche information

Year of Launch2018
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 40 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About Derviche

Derviche is a shared / unisex perfume by Rogue Perfumery. The scent was launched in 2018 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Manuel Cross

Reviews of Derviche

I made the following notes initially by blind sampling, and then seeing what the listed notes were when I could not name/ID them.

[B]Derviche[/B], using a dabber to swipe onto forearms.

Opening seems familiar, somehow. It reminds me of a scented candle, something like "citrus and 'black' amber". Nicer than the average scented candle, though. The opening citrus tones down after minute or so. At the very start, there is a fleeting burning plastic note - what is this ? (wtf is wrong with my nose, I also got this with CdG Parfum in the blind sample pass?).

Guessing bergamot, with vanilla+labdanum for the amber accord - and is there oud in this ? A dark, dirty note but with something high-pitched at the same time - if not oud (having read the notes), is this the civet and saffron ? A bit boozy (similar note/combo to Bentley for Men Intense ? in my mind - have not done a side by side comparison)

After the initial drydown, I'm getting leather and booze/rum with the amber. A bit of incense. Also reminding me of Bel Ami Vetiver, but lighter and not quite as 'burnt', which is a very good thing. What makes the boozy note ?

Now it's quietened down a bit, I get a floral I can't ID but I know what it is not so it's probably a white floral (jasmine, according to the list of notes), and another note that freshens / lightens the overall feel (geranium would be my first guess; but perhaps mint or clove? - none of these are listed - Manny, what is the cooling/freshening note ?)
If it is jasmine I can smell, it is not like the skanky L'Heure Bleue jasmine that I dislike. This jasmine is very pleasant (non-indolic ???).

A bit later on, the scent is lighter again, but still with the dirty dark underpinning. Just recognised a sweet pipe tobacco accord (vanilla, tonka?, and a tobacco note I guess). This is not like the tobacco note in Aramis Havana, which is greener and more sour - cigar tobacco rather than pipe ?
Later... sudden whiff of honeyed floral. The dark stuff still lurks at the very deepest base of the honey. Where's the civet gone ?
Far drydown is sweetish vanilla tobacco with that deep base, which is also woody? (could be the sandalwood, going by the notes).
By this point (5-6 hours), it's a faint skin scent. But I did dab. Longevity and strength are less than I expected. Perhaps I did not apply enough ?

I need to try this again, because I find the opening a bit much (though I did enjoy it), but the drydown is faint, though quite pleasant.
This is a scent I would not have sampled because of the stated notes of jasmine and civet. I'm glad I did, and glad I sampled semi-blind.
It's interesting, and I don't hate it. The civet+saffron give it presence/form.
I think it is a scent that would take several wearings to grow to love, that its complexity would repay persistence.
23rd November, 2020
Derviche starts off effectively medicinal and kind of apothecarian in order to morph down (relatively) quickly in to a fantastic musky/floral accord of leather and perfumed tobacco leaf. Leather is the main theme and this dominant element smells finally smooth, velvety and suedish. I get resins and animalic patterns along the way. Olibanum in particular is initially detectable on skin. Olibanum is perfectly connected with animalic musk/labdanum, amber, woods and medicinal hesperides in order to exude a wonderful retrò and stuffy atmosphere (like breathing the "mouldy aura" of an old parisian attic full of old books, pipe-tobacco smoke, decrepit fornitures, "potpourry flower pots" and vintage stuffs). Spices, probably dried fruits, vanilla and leather provide effectively this weird final "cherry accord" which is vaguely floral and definitely suedish. Dry down is smooth, natural and intimate, like a quite pleasant floral/suedish olfactory pearl. Suede is well rounded, vaguely rubbery and woody (for a refined combinaton of perfumed tobacco and mild - vaguely pencil-shavings - wood). Derviche is my second Rogue-experience after Tabac Vert and I have to say that my impression is completely positive (this is a super refined suedish-accord civilized by musks, delicate jasmine, vanilla and soft resins, not a complex accord but something incredibly balanced, discreet and well crafted). I detect a vague resemblance with Ambre Narguile but Derviche is definitely woodier and smoother (with its delicate touch of soothing vanilla. Vanilla, supported by musks, is the amalgamative factor connecting all together the diverse elements).
02nd September, 2020
Derviche starts off in a slightly medicinal fashion, but soon moves into the territory where it stays thereafter: cherry tobacco with a definite "red" theme, as reviewers have already noted. For these reasons, it reminds me of a more cultured version of CK One Shock, with elements of Guillaume thrown in: certainly Aube Pashmina (for its vegetal sheen) and Naiviris (for its red iris) come to mind. Not sure I would buy this over tobacco-themed stablemate Tabac Vert, but this is pleasant and a grower once you've come to terms with it. It has excellent longevity and a terrific, comforting drydown which has received positive noises in the FWF household.
18th May, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Derviche opens with just a hint of nose tingling orange bergamot, combining with much more substantial relatively sweet starring amber-like labdanum rising from the base with a supporting cherry pipe tobacco accord underpinning it before gradually moving to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the amber-like relatively sweet labdanum and now deepening pipe tobacco accord remain now as co-stars, as the the labdanum adds a leather-like facet to the mix along with supporting gentle warm saffron spice and subtle hints of floral jasmine. During the late dry-down, the composition remains linear as it eschews some of its early sweetness and the jasmine floral, as a mildly sweet vanilla and soft woody sandalwood tandem in the base gradually emerges and takes the fore, coupling with remnants of the labdanum and pipe tobacco remaining from the heart now in a supporting role through the finish. Projection is very good and longevity excellent at over 12 hours on skin.

It took me a bit of time to completely come around to Derviche. The early amber-like sweetness comes off a tad synthetic smelling and a touch too sweet for this writer's aversion to sweet compositions. That said, the ambery labdanum calms down as time passes as the pleasant smelling pipe-like tobacco accord takes hold. While the composition is pretty linear so changes happen very gradually, the subtle emergence of the less sweet vanilla and sandalwood from the base sneaks up on the wearer as a nice surprise that almost goes unnoticed and ultimately clinches the deal. While I doubt Derviche will go down as perfumer Cross' best work, when viewed as a relatively straightforward ambery sweet pipe tobacco and vanilla composition, it is a successful one that is hard to dislike and much easier to fall in love with, as I did. The bottom line is the $150 per 100ml bottle Derviche may not show off Mr. Cross' immense talent like the much more complex Chypre-Siam does, but for what it is, the composition is an addictive and successful relatively sweet pipe tobacco focused "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rated perfume that is recommended in particular to lovers of compositions like Tobacco Vanille, but want a bit more complexity.
29th December, 2019 (last edited: 30th December, 2019)
Imagine if Hypnotic Poison gave up working as a stripper, went back to school, got her law degree, and bought herself a wardrobe by Prada.

Then you wouldn't be afraid to take her home to meet your parents.

28th November, 2019
Whirling Dirvish, indeed! Images of middle eastern or near-far eastern markets filled with dark, rich scents, colors, and sounds. Resinous. Deep. Heady. Sultry aromas here. I am particularly drawn to the labdanum, olibanum, and musky, sensual, animalic things. Soft, floral, vanilla things. New, soft leather. Unisex, leaning better towards feminine, in an adventurous way.
Finely crafted, smells so Real, without all the crap out there these days (I am Not being a snob here). This, is one of the finest "oriental-style" fragrances I have experienced in many years.
There is a vague forest-like and, cherry candy thick accord, going on here later. It. Just. Gets. Better. Always resinous and smooth.
More of a candied amber accord with time. Well done!!
03rd September, 2019

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Derviche By Rogue Perfumery - 60 ml Full Bottle

US • Buy it now: USD 125.00.

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