Perfume Directory

Fougère L'Aube (2019)
by Rogue Perfumery


Fougère L'Aube information

Year of Launch2019
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 29 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About Fougère L'Aube

The company says:

I built the initial base structure of Fougere L’Aube as a classic 1930s fragrance which yielded a cozy, classic scent. It was reminiscent of the men’s colognes and aftershaves I smelled as a child; very nostalgic, very familiar. I then took this base formula and accentuated it with a few modern aroma chems and the fragrance was completely transformed into a super-fresh late 1980s style fougere. It’s a bit of a projection monster. Fougere L’Aube opens promptly with bright lavender and citrus notes, backed with bitter green galbanum. What I find interesting is that although a large portion of the fragrance is built on rose and sandalwood, what I perceive is not an attar-like note in the middle but rather it melds into the ‘fougere effect’ through and through. From what you see in the color of the juice, I used a rather large percentage of naturals; a few of which include: lavender absolute and essential oil, real Indian sandalwood (santalum album), Moroccan rose absolute, pure cold-pressed bergamot, petitgrain bigarade coeur from Robertet and oakmoss absolute.

Reviews of Fougère L'Aube

Rogue Fougère L'Aube is a new appreciable alchemy issued by this american niche lab and a real jump back in to a glorious "barber-shop" past under my vulgar nose. I agree with drseid that this fragrance is a fine example of what a traditional aromatic fougère should smell like (a modern example of the "real deal"), due to the effort of this artisanal perfume house refusing (likewise few others) to comply with the penalizing IFRA guidelines which have finally almost killed and depersonalized the historical olfactory categories. Since the first minutes after the application on skin several classic herbal fougére creations as Trophee Lancome and Trussardi Action Uomo jump more than vaguely on mind with their "legacy" of dry floral notes, aromatic lavender, grass, piquant spices, galbanum, coumarine, juniper berries and moss. I perceive by soon (in the top stage) a certain aromatic/citric grassy piquancy under my profane nose, probably provided by dry/aromatic spicy notes, which are slightly hesperidic (lime, coumarine and bergamot) and quite grassy-minty (fern, mint, angelica?). The grassy notes are vivid, vibrant, vaguely coniferous, kind of "minty/balsamic", lymphatic and definitely aromatic (conjuring the cool "early morning air" on the high mountains). In particular hay, galbanum, petitgrain and camphor produce a dominant sort of bitter/peppery, grassy/resinous, woody/paper and mossy/camphoraceous dryness all around (conjuring me several more recent Testa Maura-creations as Carticasi and Mia Murzia as well), quite notable in the general grassy/leafy atmosphere. The latter is the mossy "field" on which a dry piquant floral tandem (rose/geranium?) at one point settles its roots in the real core of the olfactory performance. As the composition enters its final basic stage than notes as oakmoss, coniferous resins, woods and galbanum (supported by hay, coumarine and grassy aromatic notes) finally cast down the woodsy vivid ambience of this olfactory "silvan" creation. Dry down is somewhat linear, still bitter/peppery, basically mossy-resinous (cistus/labdanum), dry/leafy-floral and definitely grassy. Projection is medium while longevity is above average on my skin. In conclusion Fougère L'Aube could not be defined a real crack but is definitely a more the dignified contemporary "reproduction" of the classic fougère structure by a wise assemblation (in line with a glorious herbal aromatic past) of high quality raw materials and natural ingredients.
13th December, 2020 (last edited: 14th December, 2020)
Lots of camphor to lighten the scent. Almost radiant; opens very cool and refreshing with citrus (lemon, bergamot, also petitgrain ?). I get the ashy galbanum too. Lavender appears a bit later.

The costus (dirty hair) hides discreetly in the middle notes; smells like hair combs used to when people washed (their hair) less often : of scalp and hair and their interaction with the comb.

Strong, good projection. Very nice. This is another yes, and possibly my favourite of all the Rogues. However, at the moment, Jacomo de Jacomo has this role in my wardrobe. Fougere L'Aube has more citrus and brightness than the Jacomo - it's not goth.

Very smooth - all melds nicely into a classic fougere within a fairly short time. Extremely wearable.
Drydown has sweet honey note (not pissy at all)
23rd November, 2020
Stardate 20200815:

Opens up as bitter-green and sweet floral. I don't smell any lavender here.
Moves to sweet musk and rose.
A very floral masculine. Givenchy did that successfully with Insense. This one may be better
FBW and thumbs up
15th August, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Fougere L'Aube opens with a tinge of slightly sharp bergamot citrus, with a moderately sweet honeyed-green petitgrain and galbanum tandem in support before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart a fine aromatic lavender joins sharp, rosy-green geranium with a combination of the remaining green galbanum, hay-like coumarin and oakmoss from the base in support. During the late dry-down the composition stays relatively linear as the overall fern-like accord from the heart remains through the finish, with the green aspect gradually receding to unveil supporting relatively sweet, subtle sandalwood detectable in the base. Projection is average, and longevity above average at 9-10 hours on skin.

Due to IFRA regulations, real aromatic fougeres (complete with bergamot, oakmoss and "hay-like" coumarin) are a dying breed if not near-extinct. Luckily we have artisanal perfume houses like Rouge Perfumery that refuse to comply with the ridiculous genre killing IFRA guidelines, reminding us what the "real deal" actually smells like and keeping the category alive, if not still on life support. Fougere L'Aube is a fine example of what an aromatic fougere should smell like. It has all the ingredients one would expect to create the classic "fern-like" accord while never (thankfully) straying into modern fougere territory. The mossy-green oakmoss and hay-like coumarin in this case are more subdued, letting the rosy-green geranium take center stage in the heart to drive the relatively linear development. In the end, Fougere L'Aube breaks no new ground, but perfumer Cross has the classic fougere structure down to a tee, coupling great skill with the use of high quality ingredients, making for a fine outing regardless. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml bottle Fougere L'Aube may not plow new ground, but is one of the final true examples of a real classically structured aromatic fougere, presented wholly intact and crafted with fine skill and polish by perfumer Cross, earning a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 rating and a solid recommendation to old school aromatic fougere lovers lamenting IFRA destruction of the genre.
07th June, 2020
Wow. From other reviews I went in expecting something that was a citric variation on Green Irish Tweed... they’re similar but so different.

For starters, the opening to this is green without being shrill. The bergamot used is an old school, powdery, gentlemanly style that reins in the galbanum quite nicely and transitions smoothly to geranium. The citrus hangs around as an undercurrent without overtaking the opening.

I was expecting a dry, bracing kick and taken completely off guard by the lack of piercing qualities, then delighted by how this develops. During the dry down, the GIT comparisons really begin to make sense - beautifully restrained masculine florals with a peck of sandalwood. The sandalwood is incredibly subtle and not really discernible as a distinct note floating on its own, which makes sense - Mysore sandalwood is perilously expensive... and Fougere L’Aube is not. Simple economics dictate Manny can’t be using a whole lot in each blend.

Words kind of fail me going further into the wear. There is oakmoss and it is good. Then my brain go melty with happiness.

This is much more than the sum of its parts. If you’re a big fougere fan or like verdant fragrances, you should at least get a sample... or just go hard and buy it. It’s fucking awesome.
04th May, 2020
I've tried but not yet reviewed Chypre-Siam by the same house, which I will leave until I can do it justice.

Today, though, is Fougere L'Aube. An equal achievement? Perhaps not, but very, very good. The opening provides citrus and galbanum, making for a wistful and summery accord, much in the mould of Papyrus de Ciane. After a little while, the florals come through and this is where the barbershop, starched-shirt impression is formed. References at this point might be Sartorial, Carven pour Homme, and Floris's Jermyn Street. That's not in fact my favourite part of the fougere spectrum; thankfully the final act of Fougere L'Aube is a slightly sweet, slightly biscuity lavender making for the warmer scent that personally I am happier with. If there is amber, sandalwood, or oakmoss at this stage, they are very much in the background. But the notes I discussed are easily sufficient for this reviewer.

So in short, traditional but original, lovely construction, not "beastly" by any means, but very wearable and utterly bottle-worthy. Post CV-19 I intend to shift those parts of my collection that don't get worn and replace them with those that will. This could easily be a contender.

Near immediate update: there is a definite connection to GIT here, but FL'A uses violet in a way that's acceptable to me. Normally I can't stand it. And that base note - some here have it as sandalwood. I'd say more biscuity (so lavender) than creamy, but, well, it could be both, or neither.
30th March, 2020 (last edited: 08th April, 2020)

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Rogue Perfumery Fougere L'Aube 30ml

US • Current Price: USD 39.99.

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