Perfume Directory

40 Rogue (2019)
by Rogue Perfumery


40 Rogue information

Year of Launch2019
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 18 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About 40 Rogue

40 Rogue is a resurrection of the classic Jean Desprez fragrance, 40 Love. It is descibed by the perfumer as "a bracing, fresh fougere with some brief florals and an animalic musky drydown. Very easy-going yet suave and sophisticated."

Reviews of 40 Rogue

Opening is kinda familiar from other Rogues in previous sample pass : citrus; 1960s slightly nose-puckering acetic alcoholic hairspray/hair salon vibe; something fruity apart from citrus; fresh - fresher than I was expecting - nice (almost minty/herby). Settles down to smoothness, hay/grass (?), slight plastic/heliotrope note. Mid and base very well blended but faint. It subsides , and although it lasts on my arm, it is not - I think - throwing out massive sillage, nor is it projecting for ages (unlike Mousse or Derviche).

This scent didn't do anything for me. I'm not a vintage aficionado.
23rd November, 2020
Love the drydown!! It reminds me of Lauder for Men, vintage, with real oakmoss.

However, it takes a long time to get there. And that's my gripe. I'm not a fan of the heart, which lasts for 4 hours. It's not off-putting, but it's not what I would drop coin for.

Great longevity though, after 12 hours I still had a scent bubble around me.

Try before you buy, and maybe it'll be worth your while, but I'd rather try something else with more of this base.
17th October, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
40 Rogue opens with an odd, dark narcissus floral and rotting orange fruit led accord with underlying green oakmoss before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the rotting fruit gives way to an aldehydes spiked floral accord that is predominantly carnation with just a hint of rose. As time passes, the aldehydes become more and more assertive, as they meld with the carnation to become co-stars over time. During the late dry-down the aldehydes finally vacate to leave the remnants of the carnation to pair with only slightly animalic musk through the finish. Projection is below average, as is longevity at around 7 hours on skin.

This is a tough review to write... Not because the notes are particularly complex or difficult to pin down. No, it is tough because 40 Rogue is supposed to be a resurrection attempt of the long since discontinued 40 Love pour Homme by Jean Desprez. Not having sniffed 40 Love it is difficult to comment on whether the resurrection attempt is successful from a replication perspective. On this, I can only say that the aldehydic carnation accord is quite recognizable to a similar accord in many Desprez compositions I *have* sniffed. So maybe 40 Rogue succeeds in its attempt? Having said that, while potentially succeeding to resurrect 40 Love, if it smelled like this stuff, what a stinker it must have been! The open is completely off-putting, with its very bizarre mixture of narcotic florals and rotting fruit. While the open is horrific, the aldehydic carnation development which is substantially more appealing and near-surely on point to the original still is not much of a lure, nor is the musky late dry-down. Add in some relatively poor performance metrics and from a pure smell perspective 40 Rogue flops and is the least appealing offering from the house to the nose of this writer. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml 40 Rogue may be successful in its attempt to resurrect 40 Love, but if 40 Love smells like this "below average" 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5 rated mini-stinker, I would think it better off left dead, yielding an avoid recommendation to everyone except fans of 40 Love.
15th June, 2020
Here's a hoary one. My point of reference for 40R, after some thought, turned out to be the Truefitt range, especially where they pull off this same menthol followed by florals trick. And - while I hate to quote myself - this bit of a review of Truefitt's Grafton provides an excellent stepping-off point:

"...given that it could use a big slug of oakmoss to finish, a bit of a shame it's not constructed somewhat more robustly." [I should also reference Freshman here for its menthol opening, while Grafton has tarragon as its starting point.]

The pay-off to this review is that 40R doesn't really represent a big advance on the Truefitt scents. A properly animalic or mossy drydown would have worked wonders. Sadly, on me it dies away before getting anywhere near. It's still beautifully constructed, with the tarragon giving way to the florals and then something a little dirty at the back end. But for this reviewer it never quite lifts off - and it's *so* old-fashioned.

A proviso: still certainly worth trying. And perhaps this tells us more about the long-term successes of the Truefitt scents than I had realised. But, not something I hanker after trying again.
16th April, 2020
I get a lightly aldehydic opening with a brief whiff of fruit, herbs (mainly tarragon) & a pronounced note of menthol. This is supported by floral notes of carnation & narcissus, & an animalic note wafting up from the base. Over the first hour the menthol slowly dies down, before a sweet, powdery heliotrope comes into play, followed by moss. Four hours in, it's warm, sweet, mossy & ambery, but retains that menthol-like freshness when sniffed up close. At this point, the already moderate projection has receded quite close to the skin. Later there's a little vetiver, & there are still traces on my skin after twelve hours.
I haven't tried the original 40 Love fragrance on which this is based, so I can't comment on any similarities. It's rather too retro in style for my personal taste, but it is an interesting mix of clean & dirty notes.
04th December, 2019
It begins with bubbles and sparkly effervescence, up my nose. Slight grapefruit. Loads of basil and tarragon. Barber-shop aldehydic qualities. Big-time mossy-ness. The carnation behaves itself for me, and my preference towards this particular flower. Dark, dark rose. Some furry, animal musk in a layer all its own.
In time, rose and narcissus create a lovely but, masculine floral combination - a floral fog really. Whole thing becomes less dark. Lightens up, like a sunrise.
More moss later.
Overall, Very Good!
22nd August, 2019

Add your review of 40 Rogue

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for 40 Rogue products online

Some of the links we use are affiliate links, meaning if you click the links and make a purchase, we may receive a commission, which helps us keep the site running

Search on ebay

Member images of 40 Rogue

There are no member images of 40 Rogue yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.