Perfume Directory

40 Rogue (2019)
by Rogue Perfumery

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40 Rogue information

Year of Launch2019
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 15 votes)

People and companies

HouseRogue Perfumery
PerfumerManuel Cross

About 40 Rogue

40 Rogue is a resurrection of the classic Jean Desprez fragrance, 40 Love. It is descibed by the perfumer as "a bracing, fresh fougere with some brief florals and an animalic musky drydown. Very easy-going yet suave and sophisticated."

Reviews of 40 Rogue

Love the drydown!! It reminds me of Lauder for Men, vintage, with real oakmoss.

However, it takes a long time to get there. And that's my gripe. I'm not a fan of the heart, which lasts for 4 hours. It's not off-putting, but it's not what I would drop coin for.

Great longevity though, after 12 hours I still had a scent bubble around me.

Try before you buy, and maybe it'll be worth your while, but I'd rather try something else with more of this base.
17th October, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States
40 Rogue opens with an odd, dark narcissus floral and rotting orange fruit led accord with underlying green oakmoss before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the rotting fruit gives way to an aldehydes spiked floral accord that is predominantly carnation with just a hint of rose. As time passes, the aldehydes become more and more assertive, as they meld with the carnation to become co-stars over time. During the late dry-down the aldehydes finally vacate to leave the remnants of the carnation to pair with only slightly animalic musk through the finish. Projection is below average, as is longevity at around 7 hours on skin.

This is a tough review to write... Not because the notes are particularly complex or difficult to pin down. No, it is tough because 40 Rogue is supposed to be a resurrection attempt of the long since discontinued 40 Love pour Homme by Jean Desprez. Not having sniffed 40 Love it is difficult to comment on whether the resurrection attempt is successful from a replication perspective. On this, I can only say that the aldehydic carnation accord is quite recognizable to a similar accord in many Desprez compositions I *have* sniffed. So maybe 40 Rogue succeeds in its attempt? Having said that, while potentially succeeding to resurrect 40 Love, if it smelled like this stuff, what a stinker it must have been! The open is completely off-putting, with its very bizarre mixture of narcotic florals and rotting fruit. While the open is horrific, the aldehydic carnation development which is substantially more appealing and near-surely on point to the original still is not much of a lure, nor is the musky late dry-down. Add in some relatively poor performance metrics and from a pure smell perspective 40 Rogue flops and is the least appealing offering from the house to the nose of this writer. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml 40 Rogue may be successful in its attempt to resurrect 40 Love, but if 40 Love smells like this "below average" 2 to 2.5 stars out of 5 rated mini-stinker, I would think it better off left dead, yielding an avoid recommendation to everyone except fans of 40 Love.
15th June, 2020
Here's a hoary one. My point of reference for 40R, after some thought, turned out to be the Truefitt range, especially where they pull off this same menthol followed by florals trick. And - while I hate to quote myself - this bit of a review of Truefitt's Grafton provides an excellent stepping-off point:

"...given that it could use a big slug of oakmoss to finish, a bit of a shame it's not constructed somewhat more robustly." [I should also reference Freshman here for its menthol opening, while Grafton has tarragon as its starting point.]

The pay-off to this review is that 40R doesn't really represent a big advance on the Truefitt scents. A properly animalic or mossy drydown would have worked wonders. Sadly, on me it dies away before getting anywhere near. It's still beautifully constructed, with the tarragon giving way to the florals and then something a little dirty at the back end. But for this reviewer it never quite lifts off - and it's *so* old-fashioned.

A proviso: still certainly worth trying. And perhaps this tells us more about the long-term successes of the Truefitt scents than I had realised. But, not something I hanker after trying again.
16th April, 2020
I get a lightly aldehydic opening with a brief whiff of fruit, herbs (mainly tarragon) & a pronounced note of menthol. This is supported by floral notes of carnation & narcissus, & an animalic note wafting up from the base. Over the first hour the menthol slowly dies down, before a sweet, powdery heliotrope comes into play, followed by moss. Four hours in, it's warm, sweet, mossy & ambery, but retains that menthol-like freshness when sniffed up close. At this point, the already moderate projection has receded quite close to the skin. Later there's a little vetiver, & there are still traces on my skin after twelve hours.
I haven't tried the original 40 Love fragrance on which this is based, so I can't comment on any similarities. It's rather too retro in style for my personal taste, but it is an interesting mix of clean & dirty notes.
04th December, 2019
It begins with bubbles and sparkly effervescence, up my nose. Slight grapefruit. Loads of basil and tarragon. Barber-shop aldehydic qualities. Big-time mossy-ness. The carnation behaves itself for me, and my preference towards this particular flower. Dark, dark rose. Some furry, animal musk in a layer all its own.
In time, rose and narcissus create a lovely but, masculine floral combination - a floral fog really. Whole thing becomes less dark. Lightens up, like a sunrise.
More moss later.
Overall, Very Good!
22nd August, 2019
This is a revival to Jean Sesprez’s 40 Love Pour Homme. Clearly it has a very dated feel to it. The fragrance opened with a citrusy lemon accord that came off clean and refreshing, I’d say skewed in the soapy realm. There’s two fragrances that came to mind: Orange Spice and Cypres Musc. The citrus accord in Orange Spice does seem similar to the one in 40 Love. The soapy accord in Cypres Musc does seem similar to the one in 40 Love. Ironically they were all fragrances from the same era, 40 Love (1947/1951), Orange Spice 1950, and Cypres Musc 1948. Back to the scent, as the opening notes wore off a substantial amount of musk could be detected with an animalic note. At the same instance floral notes began to creep in. What kind of florals they were I wasn’t quite sure. I wanted to say there was a presence of some sort of herbal note present in the scent. Honeysuckle came to mind of all things. There was a tinge of green and powdery feel at the heart of the scent. Finally at the base I’m left with the lingering musk and animalic accord in addition to what I believed were a dusty amber note and smidge of oakmoss. There was decent longevity with moderate silage early on before staying close to the skin for the remainder of the duration. A very satisfying and comforting scent that was resurrected exceptionally well.
13th June, 2019

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