Perfume Directory

Eau Capitale (2019)
by Diptyque


Eau Capitale information

Year of Launch2019
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 12 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerOlivier Pescheux
Parent CompanyManzanita

About Eau Capitale

Eau Capitale is a shared / unisex perfume by Diptyque. The scent was launched in 2019 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux

Eau Capitale fragrance notes

Reviews of Eau Capitale

Fine, but a little uninspiring. I like that Eau Capitale avoids the clichéd berries that ruin so many rose perfumes. I like the powdery violets on top and the juiciness in the middle. But somehow, despite all that, I just don't care for Eau Capitale that much. I can't really find fault, but this just smells like what someone who knows nothing about perfume thinks perfume smells like. Meh.
11th June, 2020
Eau Capitale is a clean, true rose fragrance that lasts for hours until it slowly winds through a clear patchouli base that leaves a slight woody clean finish although it doesn't change the overall light rose fragrance aroma. The opening is what I would call bubblegum rose - syrupy sweet + pink powdery rose which is not as subtle and expansive as true rose oil but this phase doesn't last long. By the mid notes dry pink pepper & bergamot rose scent emerges. Patchouli is mentioned but unlike other rose scents where the patchouli is natural and green, this scent has a transparent clear patchouli that mostly adds dryness to complete the pink peppercorn opening. Rose as a fragrance is never boring when it is done this well, however when there is not a bold contrasting note to modify or define the rose scent, it often is interpreted as a feminine note or an old fashioned rose. When comparing Eau Capitale to other rose scents I notice that almost every one I tested outshines the rose in this Diptyque and they all contain some contrasting notes to help define the rose scent against the contrast. This perfume is a conservative, not very exciting, natural rose that is unisex or slightly feminine. First time I wore Eau Capitale, by spouse said to me, "you smell like an old lady, please take that off!"

I am reluctant to review Eau Capitale with a thumbs down because I the like the brand and also I collect Diptyque fragrances. However, when compared to eight other rose fragrances in my collection, I find every one preferred over this Eau Capitale, at least to my nose. I like rose scents but this one gets a reluctant rating: 5 of 10 stars, and I can not recommend this scent to anyone but the most hard core rose lovers.
14th May, 2020 (last edited: 25th May, 2020)
Interesting rose-animalic scent. Has the dirty rose thing going on, more like Declaration dun Soir than Rose 31. I prefer the Le Labo, so this is not my favorite kind of dirty rose. More of a medicinal rose. It's also far more fem than masculine, more "perfumy-flower" rose than the classy rose you get in some of those men's frags.

Projection is impressive. Longevity is also very good. A very good performer overall.
12th April, 2020
Eau Capitale by Diptyque (2019) is a stunning modern interpretation of the 80's animalic rose chypre, and sits somewhere between a classic example of one like Montana Parfum de Peau (1986) and the bigger-boned animalic rose patchouli chypres like Estée Lauder Knowing (1988) that also existed at the time. Of course, being as this is a completely 21st century perfume beholden not just to IFRA restrictions but also sensibilities of the market base, Eau Capitale is going to be extremely light on any animalic tones and contain only a speck of oakmoss (if any) in the structure. Ultimately, this proves fine to my nose, as I appreciate a subtle tease sometimes more than gratuity anyway, but to the hard-nosed vintage purist, this will probably prove insufficient. For everyone else, Eau Capitale is a bold rose chypre that is very faithful by design, but colors within the lines of what squeaks by the censure of the buying public or perfume industry itself, which isn't easy.

Eau Capitale opens with a lusciously jammy Turkish rose and bergamot, very similar to Ungaro Diva (1983). Perfumer Olivier Pescheux has really done his homework here and keeps this chypre accord alive by adding some pink pepper to the patchouli heart, which helps hide the synthetic wood accord that zips and zings about within the seams. The base has some synthetic musk with an animalic tone (probably civetone) dosed real low with evernyl backfill and some of that aforementioned wood accord which becomes the "chypre" of the whole thing in place of something like sandalwood or cedar. I can't tell if it's some mix of polysantal, javanol and cedral or something else because the blending is too good, but I get the sharp "woodiness" that slides alongside the "mossiness" and the "muskiness" of the base; these things take a nose used to older specimens to familiar territory by proxy, but not with 100% accuracy. Wear time is good for an eau de parfum, and sillage is not verbose like an 80's perfume, but this is beautiful nonetheless.

Fans of modern rose perfumes really haven't had better outside maybe an expensive bottle of Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (2010) or a nice taif rose perfume from a Middle Eastern house, as most other niche perfumers seem focused on fresh "rose water" types like Maison Francis Kurkdjian's À la Rose (2014) if they're not playing with oud or patchouli. With Eau Capitale, Diptyque shows us that a "big" rose perfume without oud is still possible in these bleak times of aromachemical dependency and marketing department creative suffocation, although perfumistas used to the taste of vintage roses will find this homage to be a bridge too far in adulteration. I like me a nice no-holds-barred shoulderpadded Aqua Net hair tease of a rose perfume too, which is why I'll always love vintage Montana Parfum de Peau, but sometimes it can be a bit "extra" whereas something like this may scratch that same itch more discreetly. Oh well, I'm not going to split hairs here. This smells good. See for yourself. Thumbs up.
21st February, 2020
Stardate 20200203:

A modern rose "chypre". They tried to do a Coriandre, a Diva. And while they came up short, I will recommend it cause I am a sucker for rose chypre and they did try to do right by the genre.
It is worth a try for rose fan and I think FBW if you don't want to go hunt for vintages.
04th February, 2020
Contemporary Pink Peppercorn scented rose patch thing. Effete Watercolour that ends up as a Bubblebath yawn.
Pass me the Tempo! Then again if you sample this, you owe to yourself a
nose on Divine l'Inspiritrice. For about the same peso, a scent for your Goddess!

Ignore Epapsiou and Zealot Crusader and their younger noses.
30th January, 2020 (last edited: 21st February, 2020)

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Diptyque Eau Capitale EDP - 5ml Sample Only

US • Buy it now: USD 20.00.

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