Perfume Directory

Costa Azzurra (new) (2021)
by Tom Ford

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Costa Azzurra (new) information

Year of Launch2021
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
Not enough ratings.

People and companies

HouseTom Ford
Parent CompanyEstee Lauder Companies

About Costa Azzurra (new)

Costa Azzurra (new) is a shared / unisex perfume by Tom Ford. The scent was launched in 2021

Costa Azzurra (new) fragrance notes

Reviews of Costa Azzurra (new)

There is one review of Costa Azzurra (new).
Okay Tom Ford, I see you over there with the 50 pages worth of listed notes, but what is actually in Tom Ford Costa Azzurra (2021)? For starters, this is a retooling of the Private Blend iteration of Tom Ford Costa Azzura (2014) and re-release into the Signature Line in the same manner that Tom Ford has done with several other Private Blend releases, but sees a bit more noticeable of a shift in tone than the previous transfers to the Signature Line. The original Costa Azzura was an aquatic and this new version is not, so right away there's that to get past. Secondly, with the birth of this new Signature Line entry comes the death of so many other Signature Line fragrances loved by the online fragrance community, including Tom Ford Noir (2012) and Tom Ford Noir Anthracite (2017), meaning Costa Azzurra feels something like a signifier of a more-commercial direction change for the house (also read "the death of the brand"). I'm not so sure how accurate this is considering stuff in darling genres to the fragrance community like Ombré Leather (2018) and Beau de Jour (2020) got put into the Signature Line too, so let's just say that Tom Ford maybe just decided to switch out one retro vibe for another, with this newest Signature Line adoption feeling like the first thing he's put out in that line which targets a distinct early 90's aesthetic. Costa Azzurra is marketed unisex, but one sniff will communicate 90's "men's cologne".

Let's get out of the way the fact that there is no discernable oud in this scent, despite whatever the Baskin Robbins 31 flavors note pyramid tells you. I get a very similar golden fruity sort of ozonic feel which reminds me very much of vintage Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger (1994), which considering that brand is also governed by Estée Lauder like Tom Ford, makes this linkage a very real possibility. Once the heart heats up, things change in tone to become more resinous yet still slickly modern like a better take on Acqua di Colonia Assoluta (2003), with standout ozonic citrus and fruit notes of the top being mulled with cardamom, benzoin, juniper, herbs, and patchouli. The base is richer still, offering a golden almost Chanel No. 5 (1921) type glow minus any animalic facets with a synthetic oakmoss chypre riff blended into olibanum and mastic with bit of vanilla. Gone are the aquatic top notes from this version, with the only thing really linking it to the old Costa Azzurra being the fruitiness and floral parts of the scent. The base is the biggest difference here, and the decision to go more with citrus than remain aquatic is the deciding factor over whether or not you'll like this version. Wear time is a long noticeable 10 hours and this feels best as a casual spring through fall scent but is warm enough for year-round use in climate-controlled evironments with brief jaunts between car/bus/taxi and wherever you're headed when outside on a cold day. I think a woman could pull this off if they were fans of that golden fruity ozonic period and wore stuff like Creed Millésime Impérial (1995) at that time, and you could almost say this is Ford's answer to it.

Tom Ford Costa Azzurra does fill a sort of niche lacking in the Signature Line up until this point, and that was for a fresh dumb-reach kind of scent that didn't feel like a throwaway aquatic a la many Nautica releases, but also wasn't the stiff traditional masculinity of something like Grey Vetiver (2009). We may never see a fully abstract post-aquatic "blue" fragrance like Bleu de Chanel (2010) or Dior Sauvage (2015) enter the range to fill this need, and that's a good thing. I don't believe the usual Tom Ford customer is looking to smell like they're keeping up with The Joneses, but also doesn't want to scour eBay for overpriced surviving examples of truly vintage fragrances, so they buy into the slightly less-overpriced "repackaged timelessness" that is essentially Tom Ford perfumes. Costa Azzurra is the first time TF masculines have targeted a 90's style, as past entries have floated between the powdery animalic glory days of Guerlain in the 20's to the very hairy-chested Burt Reynolds vibe of the 70's and 80's, most of which represents stuff sadly culled from the TF line-up. While aforementioned options still exist if you wanna get your prestige postmodernism groove on, it is nice to see TF do something that isn't an ambery or smoky baroque period piece but still clearly inspired by things we don't see much of anymore. I mean, who wears Tommy anymore (besides me)? However you slice it, Costa Azzurra is potentially divisive, but a needed drop of sunshine on an otherwise overly serious (and overly expensive) line. Thumbs up.
25th February, 2021

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