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  1. MIA Review: Light Blue Forever pour Homme (2021)

    Dolce & Gabbana have taken a similar turn as Calvin Klein in recent years by relying heavily on past successes rather than trying to do anything new or standout. In some ways, D&G have leaned into the "if it ain't broke" mentality even harder than CK have, if only because Klein still throws out the random zinger now and then like Reveal Man (2014) or cK2 (2016) that tosses everyone for a loop. Not D&G though, as they are content with issuing flanker after seasonal flanker yearly ...

    Updated 11th May 2021 at 07:39 AM by Varanis Ridari

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  2. An Applied "Philosophy" for Fragrance, including tips and lessons I've learnt along the way. Part 2.

    Advice, Lessons, Tips, Tricks, and Insights

    This list is continued from Part 1 HERE.

    - Try to avoid hedonism but embrace the aesthetic nature of perfumery. Whether that's with samples or, if you have the money, full bottles, it's ok to try lots of fragrances until you find something you enoy. If you do buy full bottles, just make sure to keep selling what you know won't make the grade: don't hold on to something just because you invested in it. The used market is there ...
  3. An Applied "Philosophy" for Fragrance, including tips and lessons I've learnt along the way. Part 1.

    I have finally discovered the blog section after two years of basenotes membership. Given my predilection for long-form posting this feels like a belated match made in heaven. I have enjoyed writing discursive essay-style topics in the discussion section of this website yet a blog seems a far more natural setting for these posts.

    With that in mind, it seems sensible to start at the start: a beginner's guide to modern perfumery that is in no way just for beginners. At the start of ...
  4. MIA Review: Eternity Cologne for Men by Calvin Klein (2020)

    Calvin Klein has been scraping creative rock bottom for a few years now, there's no getting past that. The decades of insipid seasonal flankers to their best-selling classics and endless focus group experiments like Euphoria Men (2006), Encounter (2012), and Obsessed for Men (2017) have most guys thinking all they know how to do is cannibalize their own past successes and throw stuff at the wall to see what sticks beyond that. Other designers have jumped on the bandwagon with the prestige tier psuedo-niche ...

    Updated 9th May 2021 at 09:29 AM by Varanis Ridari

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  5. MIA Review: XX Artisan by John Varvatos (2020)

    John Varvatos XX Artisan (2020) doesn't really smell like a true part of the contiguous Artisan (2009) line, but rather more like an unused formula for something else dressed up in Artisan wicker and slapped with the same XX anniversary trappings as John Varvatos XX (2020) of the same year. I'm not saying this is bad, but also not saying it's good either, and if post-bankruptcy Varvatos fragrance (now mostly an imprint under direct control of EA Fragrances like Giorgio and Claiborne) has showed ...
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