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Wild Gardener

  1. Fire at the Circus Ball

    Sometimes it can be difficult to say what a perfume smells like. It can change from when it’s worn to on the smelling strip, from one time to the next, how much you spray on, the seasons; many things can influence the way a perfume smells.

    But there is another factor, one that is more objective, the concentration of the juice - which can vary in composition as well as strength. Take the case of No5. In their seminal work Perfumes : The A – Z Guide, Turin and Sanchez review it three ...

    Updated 11th June 2021 at 10:28 AM by Wild Gardener

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  2. The Birth of a Legend

    The story is simple and I personally know all the details. It happened at Chiris, where my father was lab manager.
    The client already knew the company director, they had met on the Côte d’Azur where he had tried to convince her to launch a perfume.
    She was hostile to the idea but agreed to visit his factory.
    In the creation laboratory, she was seduced by the flacons of rare essences. The chief perfumer let her smell them and told her how a perfume is made with such materials. ...

    Updated 25th May 2021 at 08:23 PM by Wild Gardener

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  3. Is Frédéric Malle going off the boil?

    There has been grumbling for a while now, niche houses sell out to corporations and the quality of the perfume goes down; both in the back catalogue and, most likely – but harder to gauge, in new releases.

    By comparing old and new samples you can often find out if a perfume has been tweaked, but the quality of new releases - compared to the back catalogue - is more difficult to judge. One approach is to look at the ratings a house gets, before and after being sold to a corporation. ...

    Updated 27th March 2021 at 05:11 PM by Wild Gardener

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  4. Sex, magic and white flowers

    Blogger, lecturer, prize giving judge; when Denyse Beaulieu had a perfume made for her by Bertrand Duchaufour, her involvement in the world of perfumery took on a new role, that of art director. Duchaufour was the composer of Séville à l’aube, but this was a collaborative affair between him and Beaulieu - whose vision was the driving force behind the scent.

    In her book The Perfume Lover, she relates how she told the composer about a drunken night in Seville with a Spanish guy named ...

    Updated 25th January 2021 at 09:34 PM by Wild Gardener

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  5. Fracas - What the Critics say

    Fracas is a hard perfume to write about. Not because it’s hard to break down into chords, or there’s nothing to say about it, it’s hard because most things worth saying have already been said.
    So instead of trying to find something original to say, I will draw on the comments of other writers who have already dealt with this great classic.

    Fracas is widely held to be the reference tuberose, the one by which all others are judged. Raiders of the Lost Scent calls it a ‘benchmark ...

    Updated 14th December 2020 at 09:34 PM by Wild Gardener

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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000