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  1. Fracas - What the Critics say

    Fracas is a hard perfume to write about. Not because it’s hard to break down into chords, or there’s nothing to say about it, it’s hard because most things worth saying have already been said.
    So instead of trying to find something original to say, I will draw on the comments of other writers who have already dealt with this great classic.

    Fracas is widely held to be the reference tuberose, the one by which all others are judged. Raiders of the Lost Scent calls it a ‘benchmark ...

    Updated 14th December 2020 at 10:34 PM by Wild Gardener

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  2. Coty's last perfume and the aldehyde connection

    Complice was originally released in 1934, the year Coty died. It was subsequently relaunched in 1973 under the title Complice by François Coty.

    Complice is a cool creamy bouquet, aldehydic and lightly pink; a soft abstract floral that clearly owes a lot to Ernest Beaux. Complice is a fine aldehydic (at least in the 1973 version) but it's nothing special. It stands alongside Infini and 1000 which were released the year before but doesn't really outshine them. The interesting thing ...

    Updated 10th December 2020 at 04:37 PM by Wild Gardener

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  3. More than a Feeling

    L'Heure Bleue - the witching hour, when day slips into night. Dusk falls, and orange lights on the banks of the Seine twinkle in the deepening blue. The atmosphere is cool, elegaic...

    Some people find l'Heure Bleue sad, and indeed, there was something weighing on Jacques Guerlain's mind when he composed it. Jean-Paul Guerlain later told Michael Edwards his uncle had a premonition he couldn't describe - and so he expressed it in the way he knew best - in a perfume. With the benefit ...

    Updated 26th September 2020 at 08:49 AM by Wild Gardener

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  4. Was Bleu Marine really the first Aquatic?

    Bleu Marine was released by Pierre Cardin in 1986, two years before Cool Water and New West for Him, and with a name like 'Navy Blue' it sounds like it should be the first ever aquatic, but was it?

    First of all, what are we talking about here? There are two versions of Bleu Marine: Bleu Marine de Cardin and Bleu Marine pour Lui by Pierre Cardin - which was released some time later. Obviously the later version of a scent cannot be the first of anything, so I am going to ignore it for ...

    Updated 24th August 2020 at 04:27 PM by Wild Gardener

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  5. Unicorns still exist - but there are no Flying Horses

    Unicorns, like Nombre Noir, can still be found in some distant land, but the 'hidden gem in the pharmacy' is nothing but an urban myth. These days, you have more chance of hitching a ride on Pegasus than finding a forgotten classic.

    First of all, any perfume that was good, or even decent will have left some footprint in perfume lore. Only the most wretched brands such as Bienaimé have slipped through the net, and, I can tell you, their stuff is definitely not classic. If a perfume ...

    Updated 18th June 2020 at 10:03 PM by Wild Gardener

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