View RSS Feed

Mala O Mata

Indolic florals

Rate this Entry
Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
It's usually used in the context of flowers. Certain flowers have a rather over-ripe quality that smells slightly "off" and animalic, due to chemicals called indoles. Apparently they smell quite foul on their own, but in most florals they just add a warm depth, I've found.
Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
If I may quote Luca Turin, who described indoles quite nicely his 'Perfumes: The Guide' review of Olene by Diptyque:

Quote from page 267: 'One of the many difficulties that nature has strewn in the path of perfumers is the vexed problem of indole. Indole is a small molecule made up of a hexagonal ring and a pentagonal ring fused together and nitrogen. It and its kissing cousin skatole are breakdown products of the digestion of food and are therefore found in feces. They are also found in large amounts in white flowers such as jasmine, ylang, etc possibly to attend to the eclectic tastes of pollinating insects. In the textbooks, their odor is described as, 'fecal, floral in dilution', which is nonsense: they smell like shit when in shit and like flowers when in flowers. By itself indole smells like ink and mothballs; skatole smells like bad teeth and that wonderful tripe sausage called andouilette. What, you ask, is the problem? If you measure the amount of indole in, say, jasmine oil and make up a synthetic mix with the same amount of the pure stuff, it will smell of mothballs whereas the natural one doesn't. Why? Nobody knows. But that is the main reason why white-flower reconstitutions seldom have the back-of-the-throat rasp of the real thing. Perfumers put in as much indole as they dare, but usually stop short of the full dose.'

More info on my thread from May last year here: http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=210392
Categories
Uncategorized

Comments

  1. Mala O Mata's Avatar
    Champs Lunaires opens with a smooth coconut milk and airy non-indolic tuberose duo with just a hint of underlying rose before transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the non-indolic airy tuberose takes the fore with the coconut milk and now more vociferous light rose remaining in support, coupling with a vague fruity citrus accord. During the late dry-down the tuberose gradually recedes as does the coconut milk, leaving the remnants of the fruity accord and gentle rose turning slightly powdery as they couple with barely detectable slightly sweet sandalwood from the base. Projection is average to above average, and longevity excellent at around 12 hours on skin.

    At its core Champs Lunaires is a tuberose focused composition. Unlike the much more hardcore deep indolic tuberose of Flos Mortis from the same house, the stuff here is light, airy and enhanced by an equally airy, fruity rose that melds perfectly with the white floral. The coconut milk is immediately detectable on initial application and acts as a successful binder for the airy florals. I have worn this composition a number of times and like it more and more with every wear. That said, something in the back of mind screamed I had smelled a perfume in the same general vicinity previously, but just couldn't remember what it was... After putting my mind to it, I now realize that the general fragrance profile I was thinking of was the original formula of Richard James Savile Row. If you aren't familiar with Richard James, it is in the general mold of compositions like Dia Man from Amouage. No, Champs Lunaires does not smell exactly like Richard James, but the fruity non-indolic lighter tuberose presentation definitely is in the same ball park, exuding sophistication, subtlety and uber-luxury. As I love compositions like Dia Man and Richard James (owning vintage bottles of both) it should come as no surprise that I love Champs Lunaires as well. The bottom line is the $125 per 60 ml bottle Champs Lunaires is an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rated perfume that would smell great on anyone and is recommended to sophisticated light floral lovers of both genders.
    - drseid
  2. k12peterson's Avatar
    This is the first time that I visit here. I found so many exciting matters in this particular blog, One thing I would like to request you that pls keep posting such type of informative blog.

    https://www.mjackets.com/category/womens-studded-jacket/
  3. k12peterson's Avatar
    I appreciate this blog your blog is vert help full for me i really enjoyed this stuff dude.

    https://www.hleatherjackets.com/category/mens-leather-jackets/
  4. GarminNuvi's Avatar
    I never used all the features of Garmin.com/Express. But still I can say that this is the best app I have ever used. Garmin Nuvi comes with some refined features. Check out Garmin Nuvi or call +1-888-309-0939 for instant help from Garmin GPS experts.

    Visit the website https://www.garminnuvimapupdate.com/mygarmin-express.php
  5. Vattuchongtham's Avatar
    sure. I found so many exciting matters in blog. Your blog is vert help full for me i really enjoyed this stuff dude.
  6. masocarter's Avatar
    Get Cannabis Grade AA++ online at reduced prices [url=https://qualityweedstore.com] Quality Weed Store [/url]
    Buy medical marijuana online at [url=https://cannamedshop.com] Canna Med Shop [/url]
    Buy Premium quality weed online at [url=https://420deliverystore.com] 420 Delivery Store [/url]
    Buy xanax online at [url=https://pillpharma.com] Pill Pharma [/url]
    Buy flowers at [url=https://legalkushfarm.com] the kush store [/url]
    Buy vapes online at [url=https://aretedankvapes.com] best vape shop usa [/url]
    Buy injectables online at [url=https://aretesteroids.co.uk] online steroid store [/url]

Trackbacks

Total Trackbacks 0
Trackback URL:



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000