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Varanis Ridari

MIA Fragrance Review: Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf (2021)

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This one is quite spicy! I'm not sure what happened between the release of Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf (2021) and the previous flanker of Spicebomb Nightvision Eau de Parfum (2020), but evidently someone decided to steer the theme of the line back to its namesake with this release. In my opinion, it's for the best, and the concept of "Nightvision" could have very well just been its own pillar range, rather than have tenuous association with the original Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb (2012). With Infrared, we see a spicier but also richer and smoother take on the original DNA, which may in fact be an improvement. This definitely feels more "old school" spicy than most things that shove a bunch of cardamom and pink pepper in there to call it a day, although Spicebomb Infrared still has the latter.

The opening of Spicebomb Infrared will remind a lot of people who've been around awhile of stuff like Joop! Homme by Parfums Joop! (1989), Montblanc Individuel (2003), or Creed Original Santal (2005), in that there is a fruity floral spiciness right off the top. I don't know what "red berries" are as a note, but this fruity sweetness mixes with pink pepper and cinnamon almost immediately, recalling the obscure Avon Friktion for Men (1999) in the way sage and some lavender come into the mix. A pimento note similar to DOlce & Gabbana K (2020) comes in to up the spice further, before benzoin, saffron, and tonka (conveying "tobacco") smooth it all over. There is some late stage cashmeran too, giving me MFK Baccarat Rouge 540 (2014) vibes, but I like it. Wear time is a strong 10+ hours and projection is also in the "club banger" range, which suggests proper context for usage.

Obviously, something leaning so hard into spice is going to be a piss poor choice for any sort of heat whatsoever, unless you like potentialy reeking of atomic fireball candies in the dead heat of summer. Otherwise, Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf might be a good choice for guys who miss the days when Liz Claiborne Spark for Men (2003) roamed the Earth. There's no perfumer attached to this, and another odd omission is the black pepper note that so famously gave the original its pop, but I guess with a name like "infrared", the idea was to try a different form of spice than the norm. Fans of Parfums de Marly Kalan (2019) but not liking the pesky price have something to investigate with Spicebomb Infrared as well, since the two scents share some DNA. If you don't like cinnamon or pepper however, avoid like the plague! Thumbs up.

Updated 7th April 2021 at 12:32 AM by Varanis Ridari

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