Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 164519

Replica Matcha Meditation by Martin Margiela

Very artsy, even for Replica. I don't like the bitterness of actual tea flavor but I do like tea-based scents that focus more on the aroma of tea. Matcha Meditation starts off citrusy but then becomes bitter like the flavor of tea and green leaves, mixed with an overabundance of jasmine. Smelled up close on skin, there's also something odd that reminds me of cardboard or gunpowder.

The drydown becomes more agreeable, the further it gets from the opening. It becomes more powdery and sweet. Much nicer.

Average performance overall. The projection is decent but never loud while the longevity is maybe 4-5 hours.
14th June, 2021

Fan Your Flames by Nishane

The smell of steamed bamboo leaves. Come over for dinner and I’ll prove it.
14th June, 2021

Black Tie for Men by Fragrance One

Watching the self-absorbed "FragBro" sub-section of the online fragrance community show its ugliness in reaction to Black Tie for Men by Fragrance One (2020) is probably more fun than smelling the scent itself, which admittedly isn't bad if you separate it from the enormous price tag. Really, this could be any off-the-shelf luxury brand like Parfums de Marly or Royal Crown, where industry perfumers are involved and a modicum of quality is applied to the overall composition, but still smells like it should cost less if not for the over-amped performance. Just like with many popular PdM fragrances, Black Tie for Men justifies its existence by adding a twist of the exotic then dialing performance to 11 so it blows out your speakers on the first bass drop, and with Jeremy Fragrance asking for over $300, Fragrance One is now butting heads directly against established luxury men's lines like those from Amouage. Of course, there is the little bit about this being an extrait de parfum, but when the rest of the packaging and presentation is the bog-standard black bottle and thin metal cap that slides over an uncollared atomizer, the kind of people expecting a $300 fragrance to look like one are going to snub their nose. The smell is really what will make or break you on this brand anyway, and I'm afraid that despite what Black Tie for Men offers, it doesn't quite pass muster in the league where it's trying to hang. The hardcore "Fragrance Army" types are probably already sharpening their knives at me, oh well. Your tears sustain me.

The opening is a bit sweet and bubblegummy, but nowhere near like with past Fragrance One efforts like Fragrance One: Date for Men (2019) or Fragrance One: Office for Men (2019). The same DNA is there of course, it's just dressed up in a bit more of a bitter citrus mix, claiming lemon, orange, and bergamot. The ethyl maltol in the mix gets buried under a high dose of guaiac wood and associated woody-amber compounds. Once again Alberto Morillas seems to know what he's doing, and he's delivering the perfect formal scent for the ur-FragBro of them all, Jeremy himself. Love him or hate him, Morillas knows his clients, or else he wouldn't be satisfied to lean so heavily on machine learning and AI tools at Firmenich. The spiky woods and the slightly skanky amber accords here remind me of Indian oud to a degree, and also the "Band-Aid" leather of another Morillas composition: Gucci Guilty Absolute pour Homme (2017), but they don't last long against the cardamom, tonka, denatured patchouli and ambrox that fill in the massive sillage of the fragrance. This is effectively the same base as all other Fragrance One scents, and claimed to be intentional so they can be layered on throughout the day as one moves from office, to date, to wherever. Purpose-built signature scents is pretty smart for the "one cologne guy" which is who Jeremy seems to target, so hats off there. Longevity is all day and projection is insane. Best use is as the manufacturer suggests, haha. If left up to me however, I'd say if you end up paying for this monster, use it sparingly in winter and ironically not to black tie events, because it's too tacky.

If every entry in this line was around $50 and you could pick up the entire kit and caboodle for about $200, I might be sold on this as the ultimate dumb-reach fragrance line for the dumb guy who doesn't want to think about how he smells, and I may have said this before. The slight ratcheting up of each new entry in price is the real horror show here, because it's luxury window-dressing on an ostensibly pragmatic line, not something made to veblen in nature. If Jeremy wanted to use etched crystal bottles, with big brass caps and ornate Arabic script and felt labels on the bottles, with maybe a rhinestone in the cap or something, maybe $300 would seem fair for the experience of ownership. I'd still balk at the scent for smelling like it does for the price, but at least I can entertain the notion that my trash here could be another man's treasure. The basic bottle, the mostly basic fragrance design which amounts to a drier woodier slightly muskier take on the same DNA Jeremy has always pushed in his fragrances, plus the "take out the guesswork" marketing just clashes with the price point, case closed. On it's own, Black Tie for Men (and oddly not Fragrance One: Black Tie), is just a leathery woody amber with a bit of leftover clubber and blue scent DNA tacked on for familiarity, and smells pretty good. It wasn't a total rehash of DNA with a small topnote change like Unisex for Everybody (2020), so I won't flunk it out, but Black Tie for Men is still very much out of its league. Neutral
14th June, 2021
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Chypre Mousse (new) by Oriza L. Legrand

The name made it sound like it was going to be a Roja Dove confection, but surprise! It is all forest floor, vine, earth, leaf and dust; the bitter edge of herbs. There’s many styles of ‘natural’ green-leaning fragrances. Chypre Mousse heads in the direction of a Hamlet contemplation - time, death, decay, compost, renewal. And it spends part of its time in a crypt.
So yes, there’s a time-honored Djedi somberness to it, but lacking Djedi’s Guerlainade note, and more plant-leaning. The Guerlainade note is what gives yearning and hope to Djedi. Those emotions are lacking here - it is more an experience of all those elements playing out in the natural world, like a biology field trip. It was the aspiration in Djedi that transformed it and made the somberness tolerable, even inspired.
There is a touch of that here. The violet leaf works its subtle magic of stillness within change - here the change of natural elements in the cycle of life. What makes that bearable as a fragrance? An element that sits still. That should be the mineral element, but for me it usually falls back to violet leaf.
Chypre Mousse gets lighter and less somber as it ages. Air starts coming into the drying humusy notes, and becomes more tree, resin and wood. A slight bitter edge remains and works with the drydown elements. I find it a little difficult to dwell in the early part of this fragrance too long while I’m indoors. I have the same difficulty with ‘Sonnet XVII’ by Olympic Orchids - I’m compelled by the process of dwelling in the roots and plants, the primal dirt of Sonnet XVII, yet there’s something in me that fears it. Very instructional, but a little unnerving.
That being said, I actually don’t consider Chypre Mousse an indoor fragrance. It feels at home when you wear it outside, and has a resonance with the air and greenery. It becomes a handsome herbal wood fragrance with depth from the violet and develops a complexity and character.
I give Chypre Mousse a neutral for indoor use, and a thumbs up for outdoor use. But because it’s capable of rising to the occasion I give it an overall thumbs up.
13th June, 2021

Cedar Woodpecker / 10 by Parle Moi de Parfum

Quite nice, I'm usually not into those super woody niche things, I find them grating after a while, especially since they're most often shock full of IsoE, which I like pretty sparingly. How much Iso is in here I can't tell quite a lot most likely. All's that is listed is cedar and iris and I can't detect anything else really. All in all the cedar and woods are very nicely smoothed out by the iris. It's simple, it works. Well done.
13th June, 2021

Animal Mondain by Pierre Guillaume

Prepare for the initial gust of Woody Amber Aromachemical. As it settles, a slightly honeyed Cognac and gentle breeze of fine Tobacco emerges as core. There is a whisper of, what I would assume is Pear Tree Leaf, leaving a hint of the spiciness of Pear Fruit.
There are suggestions of L'Ombre Fauve animalic, which bring to the scent, a Mammalian muskiness and buttery drydown.
Mingles well with my Masculine Musk to have my partner saying "You Smell Nice"
PG has a knack of artfully designing fragrance to complement Human natural Odor, by careful, judicious use of an Aromachemical base.
13th June, 2021

No. 19 Poudré by Chanel

Chanel No. 19 Poudré is retro but not in an 90s way more like a french lady when she goes out and socializes with philosophers, artists,and musicians in parisian locals at dusk,like Misia Sert or a charming 1950s bride on her wedding day.very romantic so feminine,boudoir chic scent. a cool green woody iris which turns a little musky. green and dry,warm and fresh at the same time. feminine air with a metal edge.

First spray is a strongly powdered iris,and within minutes the colder herbal note from the combination of bitter galbanum and sweet tonka bean.iris is actually more noticeable on me way into the dry down after an entire day of wearing and is anchored by dry is the smell of a clean body when you get out of the shower after you've washed yourself with expensive soap, shampoos and condition and then apply luxurious body creams.if you prefer the emphasis on galbanum and green than absolutely powdery scent,try this one.sillage is pretty soft,almost to the close to the skin and it does not overwhelm a room,but it does make to feel clean and confident.pure class in a retro bottle.
13th June, 2021

White Suede by Tom Ford

Balanced notes of suede, light white florals and unlit cigarettes. Reminds me of my youth wearing a vintage suede coat wearing those powerhouse floral scents of the early 2000's white carrying a pack of Winston Lights or Camels. Don't get me wrong, the tobacco/cigarette notes I get are very well done.

Longevity wasn't so great on this though and I'd be hesitant to pull the trigger on a full bottle, but definitely worth trying a decant.
13th June, 2021

Forever New Orleans by Bourbon French Parfums

Bourbon French – Forever New Orleans

Although gardenia oil does not replicate the scent of the gardenia blossom, it does have a slight scent, best described as a light green impression. Chanel’s gardenia perfume unashamedly made use of this. Here it is matched with jasmine, itself an ingredient (usually along with tuberose) in the perfumer’s recreation of the olaceous gardenia blossom. The result is somewhat underwhelming to my nose.

This is a very, very light floral, sweet, worn close to the skin. Its projection and sillage are slight.
There is a slight spiciness that develops as the scent unfolds, perhaps a bit of carnation or cinnamon? A dryness also accompanies Forever’s development on the skin.

Although perfectly decent, this is not one of Bourbon French’s outstanding florals. It is light and unobtrusive enough to be a choice for hot New Orleans summers and perhaps this is its intent. Decidedly feminine. Perhaps best worn by a girl or very young woman.

13th June, 2021

Cereus pour Homme No. 7 by Cereus

Cereus as a brand had a lot of hype around it when the perfume house launched in 2007, and among the masculine market releases (all numbered) that launched when the brand did, Cereus pour Home No. 7 (2007) seemed to get the most hype. Years after the fact now and all mention of this brand is but a whisper, while every now and then, No. 7 still gets a citation here or there from someone around the online fragrance community who remembers when this one blew a hole in the wall. I'm obviously very, very late to the party trying to weigh in on this hype in 2021, but I'm glad I did. For the record, Cereus pour Homme No. 7 isn't a bad little fragrance, maybe a bit overpriced for what it is, but definitely not bad at all. Having almost zero information about the founders and the motive behind creating the house, besides the name being lifted from a night-blooming cactus flowern is a little annoying. Coupled with every bottle having the same form factor and "Cereus" listed on the front, with no change besides the color of the fragrance or the bottom sticker telling you which number you have, is also a bit annoying; such was the niche world with its "focus on the fragrance and not the packaging" shtick back then, so whatever. Cereus appears to have not changed one iota either, which is honestly rare, if not necessarily endearing. I had expected to find this one discontinued and the brand shuttered but evidently not. You still see this and now many more numbers of Cereus pour Homme sold directly from the brand or niche retailers, but does anyone still care?

So all the hubbub about Cereus No. 7 seems to stem from its similarity to Creed Green Irish Tweed (1985), something heavily noted upon in 2007, which is readily apparent from the opening spray. It isn't like perfumer Olivier Gillotin hadn't referenced or wouldn't again reference other brands, as he did so when working for Ed Hardy and Tom Ford too. No. 7 isn't really a clone of anything though, it just has the unfortunate feature of being heavy on dihydromyrcenol and violet ionones, even if the rest of the scent is really quite different from Green Irish Tweed. You get bergamot, juicy orange, and clary sage accompanying that aquatic opening element, followed by clary sage and a bit of jasmine hedione in the heart. There is no verbena here like in Green Irish Tweed, and no lavender like in the designer cousin Davidoff Cool Water (1988). The base goes in an old-school leathery direction which when mixed with the violet, brings impressions of Dior Fahrenheit (1988) to the fore, except the leather here is coupled with cashmeran and Iso E Super, which is very much unlike the Dior. The sour-ish isobutyl quinoline leather remains, and when mixing with the green vibes of the top, gets really close to Avon HisStory (2003) for me. Violet-heavy masculines come across professional, detached, prim, and aloof like the best variety of British and French barbershop takes on the note, with Cereus No. 7 being no different. Best use is as an office scent, and expect moderate performance all around, suitable for just about all seasons and really as a potential signature if you dig this violet style. Quality of materials is really kind of designer-like, which is a nitpick but valid at this price.

With so many violet options from Kiton, to Burberry, and newer niche options like Mancera at the lower end of niche, then Royal Crown at the absolute higher end of niche, Cereus No. 7 with its $120 for 75ml and not much in the way of stand-out performance may feel like it actually seems at a cursory glance: a "middle niche" fragrance moved on from by its target market, who now hunt rarer or more value-oriented options accordingly. I can tell you right now, most of the people who latched onto this in the late 2000's did so from one of the many capless testers the house seemingly flooded the market with when it launched to try and get boutiques interested in carrying the brand. All those testers ended up on eBay at or around $20, so a bunch of new faces jumping into the online community at the time saw Cereus No. 7 as on of several gateway drugs into the world of niche fragrance collecting, in the days before Creed Aventus (2010) and its many clones would serve that same purpose. Citrus, violet, leather, and woods spell a winning formula for the conventionally-minded novice that probably didn't have much point of reference for the scent, so it blew minds until sweeter meats were eventually tasted. With most of those old testers now dried up from the gray market, and full retail being among the remaining options to buy No. 7, the glory has appropriated faded. That isn't to say Cereus pour Homme No. 7 isn't still decent and at least worthy of sampling if nothing else, but unless you're new 'round here, you have smelled this fragrance or something like it countless times before and likely for less money. Good at the old tester prices, but a bit of a rip at retail. Neutral
13th June, 2021
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Bullion by Byredo

Bullion goes on with a burst of moderately sweet fruity floral osmanthus enhanced plum supported by black pepper before gradually transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the plum fades into the background with the osmanthus remaining to leave traces of the fruit still detectable in subtle support to the black pepper that takes on a co-starring role, adding a waxy sheen to natural smelling dark woods rising from the base. During the late dry-down the composition gradually sheds its black peppery facet as it turns somewhat musky sans all but just the hint of any animalic heaviness, with remnants of the dark woods remaining, now in support. Projection is good and longevity excellent at well over 12 hours on skin.

Bullion is a perfume that on its surface is pretty simplistic with its peppery, almost incense-like woody focus. The osmanthus floral element is quite intriguing though, as in the heart section of the perfume's development it allows the plum from the open to remain to a degree, even though now it really is the floral primarily driving its detection. The woods used are quite pleasant and natural smelling but difficult for this writer to make any real distinction as the which ones are used. There is a waxy, almost iris aspect added to the peppery woods in the heart that to a modest degree reminds me of Declaration by Cartier, without the cumin. The late dry-down is a rather mundane, safe affair with the perfume never really taking major risks with its sanitized musky woody finish. There is no doubt Bullion is well put-together, but I never quite feel it distinguishes itself from a relatively crowded space of perfumes with similar fragrance profiles. The bottom line is the apparently discontinued $175 per 100ml EdP bottle at liquidators Bullion implies wealth and opulence, but delivers the more commonplace earning it a "good" 3 stars out of 5 rating but a neutral recommendation to most except peppery woods collection completionists.
13th June, 2021

Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford

She might have one dress,but that dress is always pressed and clean and tidy.that's what this scent reminds me of.class without any need to flaunt or be excessive. class from the has a vintage vibe and i could imagine a mature lady loving this.a delicate combination of perfectly green,slightly sweet and soapy galbanum.ODH reminds me in a way of Serge Lutens Bas de Soie,no so much in scent but in feel.

It has very green,almost botanic opening.the heart is rich,yet not overwhelming floral.simple, mild soapy,floral here is not scret. that fresh green galbanum note added with the beautiful violet leaf,musk,floral accords give this the most beautiful aromatic green,fresh aroma which really lingers around you for hour's. lush green notes made sharper by the hyacinth.this is an intimate scent,not sexy but a hint of more to come.
13th June, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Fucking Fabulous by Tom Ford

The opening blast is dominated by bitter almonds, but they are not unpleasantly bitter due to the counterbalancing effect of a vanilla not, which has resinous characteristics.

The other counterbalance is provided by an orris impression, which exudes a discreet spiciness that works very ell with its two predecessors. resulting in an original composite aroma that is on the bright and positive side. An undertone of coumarin gives is additional depth, assisted by a light and soft leather accord with minimal smokiness only on me.

Towards the end herbal touch of dried sage develops, based on a backgound of a nonspecific woodsiness contributed by a cashmeran that is lacking any spiciness at this stage.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and a very good longevity of eight hours on my skin.

This scent for bright and warmer autumn days manages to throw together a few constituents, a mix of an unusual one with several more commonly used ones, to create an original composition with good performance. A couple of ingredients are rather generic, but overall the over-hyped marketing was unnecessary: This is a quite good fragrance. 3.25/5
13th June, 2021
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The Most Wanted by Azzaro

The Mosted Wanted by Azzaro (2021) took me by surprise, as I really wasn't expecting to like this based on all the early complaints of it being a sugar bomb. The trend of the late 2010's and early 2020's towards men's fragrances in the designer space getting sweeter and sweeter still has many guys yearning for the days of green aromatics or even aquatic fresh tones, plus running away screaming and usually into the arms of overpriced niche brands offering yesteryear's mainstream tropes at a premium. Under this modus operandi, I was expecting claims of another sugarbomb being exactly that, but I was wrong. Make no mistake, The Most Wanted is in fact sweet, but no more or less sweet than the original Azzaro Wanted (2016), and actually less sweet than Wanted by Night (2018). My guess is that the absolutely horrid Wanted Tonic (2020) did so poorly (deservedly), that they've already swept it under the rug (no box stock at the nearby Macy's, the tester sitting unloved away from the display and under glass inaccessible), so this new one only a year later is taking Tonic's place on store shelves while Tonic gets flushed out to discounters and one day become someone's unicorn (I hope not). No listed perfumers for The Most Wanted, so I don't know who to credit (or blame if you dislike the stuff), but I must say this is the first flanker from the line I'd consider buying, as Wanted by Night was too sweet, and Tonic was well... something. The Most Wanted really just feels like a slightly darker and cooler weather take on Wanted, which makes it bizarre as a summer release, but oh well.

The key elements of the original Wanted seem to be here, which irks me because official listed notes only show cardamom, toffee, and amberwood. This laziness is a total joke to me, and the brand (as with many others doing the same one-note-per-tier trick) should be ashamed, as it says absolutely freaking nothing about the way the scent smells, and nothing about the scent smells like it is focused on cardamom, toffee, or amberwood, at all. What the opening does give you is a similar ginger and lemon flash as the original Wanted, slightly sweeter and rounder, with the cardamom adding pops of extra body to the spice so the ginger doesn't carry it alone. Cardamom was in the original too, but shared limelight with mint, honeysuckle, and just a host of things. Here, these extras if present are micro-dosed, because the DNA really doesn't change much outside maybe the cade oil not really showing up. Lavender from the original is also present, and the toffee really just smells like extra ethyl maltol "bubblegum sweetness" the original in known to have, making this rest between it and Wanted by Night. The base is where the biggest difference between The Most Wanted and OG Azzaro Wanted lies; gone is the massive ambroxan and karmawood/norlimbanol whoosh, the scratchiness of the latter, and the vetiver + ionones to give a similar feel to Bleu de Chanel (2010). Instead, we see the multipurpose amberwood base material alongside some tonka, plus some other creamy woodiness that could be one of several fancy new aromachems too, to make something pleasantly round. Wear time is about eight hours, with moderate sillage all around, with a scent that pushes versatility away from office use and more towards romantic or formal wear.

The Most Wanted can't quite replace Azzaro Wanted, but if you're already using the Wanted by Night flanker for its intended clubber purpose, this one can easily supplement the original Wanted as the dressed-up or cold-weather hefty boy variant. Wanted Tonic could have been the hot weather one if it was actually related to the Wanted DNA in some fashion and was actually, I don't know, an actually good fragrance, but you can't win them all. Maybe there will be a fresher "Wanted by Daylight" or "Wanted Dead or Alive" that can be the new summer or sporty scent which rounds out the collection of the modern urban cowboy looking to have a fragrance wardrobe full of bottles shaped like revolver chambers, so he can aim to please and shoot to thrill his way into the Compliments Corral, I guess. Either way, you won't really need to worry about the pine box they'll carry you out in smelling bad if you wear this to a duel at high noon and loose, that's for sure. Circling back, this could have almost been Wanted Noir if Azzaro was one for such nomenclature, and it is not a massive sugar bomb, so anyone saying that probably thinks the tiny puff of lemon in Acqua di Selva by Victor (1949) is sweet. Hand them a bottle of pure galbanum tincture and tell them to huff that, then be about your business none the lesser. Still, The Most Wanted does sit close enough to the original Wanted that it may be redundant, and it won't win any fans who didn't like the original entry to this line, so you have to know what you're in for when you go to test this in the first place. All in all, a nice flanker that offers a variation on a theme, but doesn't make nearly as much gunsmoke as some folks have made it out to. Just another day in Tombstone. Thumbs up
13th June, 2021

Roma Uomo by Laura Biagiotti

The opening is very fresh and clean, it's a lot of orange and a grapefruit note. The grapefruit note is holding some laurel so this comes off as a 90's sport shampoo or soap smell with a green twist. The orange develops a sweetness and at first it's really peachy to the nose from a calone note that burns off after a few minutes. Then this sweetness changes to incense tones from benzoin resin and vanilla's almost a caramel like sweetness. I get a good amount of sandalwood which is softened by the powdery and sweet orange note. I also get musk which has a slightly creamy and semi nutty hint to it from the soft sandalwood.

Roma Uomo is an easy to wear fragrance. I'm giving it a neutral because I think for it's time it was quite original. But the fruity/vanilla thing has been done so much over the past 20 years in under $20 men's fragrances that this just doesn't stand out.
12th June, 2021

Infusion d'Homme by Prada

Best soapy fragrance around? I think so. While Patrick is certainly in the running.. I'd call that more of a green soapy scent while Infusion d'Homme is more of a white soapy scent. This couldn't be done more perfect. It lasts long, it projects well, it reeks of high quality. Sadly, you can expect to pay high discontinued prices. I still have a full bottle, and although I rarely wear it, it's good to know that I paid about $35 for mine some years back. I thought it was just a simple generic soapy fragrance back then. Fast forward all these years later, tons and tons more fragrances, I can honestly say, there is really nothing quite like Infusion d'Homme.
12th June, 2021

Versace l'Homme by Versace

One of the best bang for your buck designer masculine traditional "cologne" style aromatics around. That was a mouth full. Seriously, this smells like a barbershop! Fresh lemon top notes, that becomes herbal and then woody. It's cheap as can be online, I think I paid $15 for my bottle. It has solid performance, it's very versatile, and it's classy. Doesn't smell expensive, nor cheap, just right in the middle. I'd recommend this for a man in his 40's looking for a signature scent that won't break the bank. I own a bottle simply because I enjoy it, among my other 450+ bottles, this one still brings something to the table.
12th June, 2021

Cravat Noir by Happyland Studio

Cravat Noir’s note break down is interesting on Basenotes as it contains no mention of rose. However, for me, rose is the most prominent note I detect. It’s a clean, slightly spicy, masculine rose.

This comes off similar to L’homme Ultime or even closer to Toy Boy from Moschino.

Solid scent with equally solid performance. Nice projection with all day longevity.
12th June, 2021

Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise by Giorgio Armani

Like a grim stormy beach on an overcast day strolling along as the waves crash in and slowly push and swirl seaweed along the beach.there is no sunshine here. this is the ocean.water and salt in the air sprayed in to your face.not a sunny, happy fragrance. it is rather unisex but I'd say it is leaning towards the masculine type of fragrance due to the marine vibe.

It starts off with salty marine accord supported by woodsy tones and seawood and smoky vanilla. mostly linear-slightly harsh opening,mellows a bit in the dry down but no major transition really,just a bit more seaweed after the opening 30 minutes. it feeling like a wet warmed-up naked skin by the seaside in the summer,like sex on the beach fantasy.i can't recognize a masterpiece but it is a good traveling companion in hot weather.
12th June, 2021

Versace pour Homme Oud Noir by Versace

To me, this is a better, and longer lasting version of Versace Man. Probably the reason that one was discontinued, and this one went from limited production into mass production, some years back. This used to be very hard to find, and even now, it still isn't easy to obtain.

I mostly get a mix saffron, tobacco, leather, berries and spices. The oud in here is light, and not overpowering. This is someone in the same genre as Varvatos Vintage, Jubilation XXV, Burberry London, and others of that dried fruit or berries sort of top notes, with a rich dry down. It's hard to resist stuff like this if you're a real frag head, but it's also not gonna sell well to the mass majority, because it's not fresh, and necessarily a compliment getter.
12th June, 2021

Versace Man Eau Fraîche by Versace

I wish I could detect the star fruit note listed, like I could in the old CK Crave, but it just isn't here.

Although I find this fragrance quite enjoyable, it's also very short lasting, and very linear. It's mostly a tangy lemon and tangerine, or mandarin orange. Not a typical classic citrus combination, more of a youthful style. The citrus does smell natural at times, and I even think of Jean Claude Ellena's work at some points. Where JCE always takes the route of Iso E Super as a supporting backbone to his fragrances, Cresp kept it more linear, to where I don't even really detect any woods, or other supporting base notes. Fast forward 20 minutes, I start to pick up on tarragon, giving it a the distinctive peppery/anise like smell that tarragon does so well. The sage is also hard to detect behind the melange of citrus fruits.

Sadly, it's just too light, too soft, too linear, and too boring for me. It's also overpriced for what you get, even at discounted prices. For much less, you can get the much unknown (but an absolute star to those who do know it) Banderas Blue Seduction, and get the added bonus of a fantastic mint note, and a dash of creamy coffee in the mid, that piques the interest of many who have smelled it. The retail price of Blue Seduction is still just a mere fraction of the discounted price of Eau Fraiche. The first 20 minutes of the 2 side by side, it's hard for most people to even detect a difference. Plus, personally, I have gotten A LOT of compliments wearing Blue Seduction, and none (to my recollection) wearing Eau Fraiche. If you're a young guy and wanna show off that you own a Versace bottle, then by all means, this is for you, this is the one I'd recommend, that's the most mass appealing, and also light.. which is something a lot of people actually want (though not many of us BN'ers). For me, as someone who doesn't much care about what brand makes a fragrance as much as the skills of the perfumer who makes it, I will take Blue Seduction any day of the week over Eau Fraiche. I won't be buying Eau Fraiche again, if I ever do run out.

To clarify though, it's a great fragrance. There's nothing off putting about it. I love the bottle style, and how unique it is. It's like a total 70s style woman's fragrance bottle, just as the original Versace Man was, but the fragrance inside is unexpecting, if you had no idea what it was. The aqua blue, gives you some clue that it's gonna be really fresh, as does the name.

Now since revisiting this, I will remember to recommend it more often to those who want something light and inoffensive, because I know every time I recommend a celebrity fragrance, people immediately write it off.
12th June, 2021

Tubéreuse Nue by Tom Ford

Like a sunny day on a hammock made of tuberose where next to it a plastic table held a wase of lily in an asian beach.if vintage Fracas had a shy yet intelligent baby,it would be this fragrance. ridiculously decadent,an indulgence of white flowers with that indolic.i imagine it would go well with some white broderie anglaise/cotton lace and sun-kissed skin.

It opens like a kindler,gentler Fracas and then settles down quite quickly into a soft lily. then gets even lusher with a hint of spice in sweet cream.there is a musky suede connection of other notes mixed but the tuberose,lily are the main is more womanly than girly,a woman she seduces with her mind not her body.totally nice scent but just not worth the price.performance is respectable.
12th June, 2021

Club de Nuit Sillage by Armaf

I've always prefared SMW over Aventus, so I had no hesitation in grabbing this.
What an absolute bomb this is too.... lasts and lasts for at least 10hrs on my skin, projecting very noticeable for a good 4hrs and then is still noticeable for a good few more hours after, unlike SMW this is almost beast in performance.

Highly recommended

Overall 7.6-10
Performance 9-10
Sillage 9.5-10
12th June, 2021

Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf

This one is quite spicy! I'm not sure what happened between the release of Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf (2021) and the previous flanker of Spicebomb Nightvision Eau de Parfum (2020), but evidently someone decided to steer the theme of the line back to its namesake with this release. In my opinion, it's for the best, and the concept of "Nightvision" could have very well just been its own pillar range, rather than have tenuous association with the original Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb (2012). With Infrared, we see a spicier but also richer and smoother take on the original DNA, which may in fact be an improvement. This definitely feels more "old school" spicy than most things that shove a bunch of cardamom and pink pepper in there to call it a day, although Spicebomb Infrared still has the latter. A whopping 3 perfumers were assigned this, so expect a bit of the usual focus group stew.

The opening of Spicebomb Infrared will remind a lot of people who've been around awhile of stuff like Joop! Homme by Parfums Joop! (1989), Montblanc Individuel (2003), or Creed Original Santal (2005), in that there is a fruity floral spiciness right off the top. I don't know what "red berries" are as a note, but this fruity sweetness mixes with pink pepper and cinnamon almost immediately, recalling the obscure Avon Friktion for Men (1999) in the way sage and some lavender come into the mix. A pimento note similar to DOlce & Gabbana K (2020) comes in to up the spice further, before benzoin, saffron, and tonka (conveying "tobacco") smooth it all over. There is some late stage cashmeran too, giving me MFK Baccarat Rouge 540 (2014) vibes, but I like it. Wear time is a strong 10+ hours and projection is also in the "club banger" range, which suggests proper context for usage. Overall, Carlos Benaim, Nicolas Beaulieu, and Jean-Christophe Herault did a good job.

Obviously, something leaning so hard into spice is going to be a piss poor choice for any sort of heat whatsoever, unless you like potentially reeking of atomic fireball candies in the dead heat of summer. Otherwise, Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf might be a good choice for guys who miss the days when Liz Claiborne Spark for Men (2003) roamed the Earth. There's no perfumer attached to this, and another odd omission is the black pepper note that so famously gave the original its pop, but I guess with a name like "infrared", the idea was to try a different form of spice than the norm. Fans of Parfums de Marly Kalan (2019) but not liking the pesky price have something to investigate with Spicebomb Infrared as well, since the two scents share some DNA. If you don't like cinnamon or pepper however, avoid like the plague! If Spicebomb was medium Taco Bell sauce, this stuff is like upgrading straight to the diablo sauce. Thumbs up.
12th June, 2021

Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

The essence of a summer evening's dinner party. it is a straightforward,winning concept: just pure, zesty bitter orange on subtly herbal background. perfect in it's simplicity.unisex in a masculine way but perfectly suitable for a woman with strong spirit.fresh dark green,earthy, classic,chic, herbaceous, ,uplifting and invigorating.

The grass and cedar work together beautifully with the orange top notes and give it a depth that a lot of citrusy scents has the real sharp zesty smack of bitter orange oil.i don't smell rose at all.a passionate love from the very first time i sniffed it.if you like classic green scents, this is a must for your collection.another gorgeous Ellena perfume. moderate sillage and good longevity.
12th June, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

The opening is a lavender blast - rich, green with a light undertone of wood. A lavender of great intensity. A bright cardamom adds a subtly spicy note, and these twp components work together very well. This dyad results in a surprisingly unusual aroma, especially when a hint of a light saffron is added in a bit later.

The drydown becomes a more herbal affair, with rosemary and a less prominent basil setting the tone. a traditional geranium evolves with time, which is more of an accompaniment that a lead note, but is contributes a discreetly floral component, together with the jasmine that lingers on way into the later stages of the development of this creation.

A fairly bright slightly ambery moss note leads in to the next stage, but it is soon overshadowed by a equally bright patchouli impression. This is quite a smooth patchouli, with a touch of a restrained edge to it, but neither particularly harsh or sharp - This is very unlike Purple Patchouli of the the House or even Gucci Nobile.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

Lavender, basis, rosemary, a mossy note, patchouli...this spring scent bears some of the hallmarks of a traditional fougere, especially as I can detect a light and brighter veriety of a soapy barbershop undertone that is neither musty nor heavy on me. On the other hand the lavender and the patchouli are rather dominant at the cost of the other ingredients for parts of the development.

The main gaps are the lack of an initial blast of bergamot that a fougere usually demands, and the fact that the rather anaemic moss note is not a proper oakmoss, but an attenuated version as probably induced by IFRA restrictions. This lack is attempted to overcome by the patchouli, but the result convinces as a patchouli, but not as an oakmoss. Still, the whole could pass as a modified pseudo-fougere, a fougeroid so to speak, but this is not a Brut; more alike Zino Davidoff with modifications. It is a bit linear at times, but some moments are quite complex and with adequate texture. The performance is very good. 3.5
12th June, 2021

Light Blue Forever pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

The opening is a bleghy amount of grapefruit rind. The bitter violet goes with that to make this smell like a grapefruit that was sprayed with pesticide and bug spray, then the zest ground off for this fragrance. Its like Sundrunk without the orange. The mid is still that grapefruit and bug spray, the dry down a salty vetiver musk. I didnt find it pleasant, though it is very loud. Niche, sure. Novel for a designer. Better than any other Light Blue flanker, which is saying very little.
12th June, 2021

Like This / Tilda Swinton Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange

Let me get it out of the way that I can see why people like this, if not just for the association with the actress Tilda Swinton, then for the fairly inviting smell. You really can't go wrong with orange blossom leading the way in a fragrance, it's just one of those notes that most people like, unless they have a lump of coal where their heart should be. That said, Tilda Swinton Like This (2010) is still on the boring Bath & Body Works room spray side of the fragrance universe, making it not so appealing to me as a personal scent. Also, unless you got the early bottles, yours will likely be called just "Like This" but is still the same fragrance. I don't think these celebrity collabs have a long shelf-life because royalties for name use are involved, or creative differences arise like between Bond No. 9 and the Andy Warhol estate. Tilda Swinton Like This was basically phoned in based on what she said she likes, mostly revolving around cozy kitchen and home scents, which here just get mashed up without much of a top/heart/base structure into a single ball of "smell good". Oh well, this certainly isn't the most flagrantly-irreverent or challenging thing on the ELdO menu, so they've kept the Quirk-O-Meter not much past a 3.

The opening, which isn't much one due to said lack of structure, is a big swig of orange blossom and and ginger. Eventually an immortelle note and a "pumpkin pie accord" emerge to mix with rose, heliotrope,labdanum, and a bunch of musks. It also feels like benzoin has a role to play here, as this has a similar rich fatty pastiness in the musk portion that reminds me of the later Bijou Romantique (2012) by ELdO in the far dry-down, once the other lump of smelly-sweets finally dies away due to chemical decomposition on skin. Mathilde Bijaoui also worked on this too. The orange blossom never dies away somehow, so you better like that as your main note if you want to enjoy this at all. You'll smell like a cooking or domestic living show host from HGTV or like someone who rolled around in a Yankee Candle shop but hey, this is a comfort-zone kind of perfume so I get it, just not for me. SIllage is mild and wear time is long to make up for it, but best use for me is at home, obviously. I also think this would reek in high heat or humidity, so beware that. Gender-wise this is labelled for women but I could see anyone who likes the smell of seasonal potpourri from Jo-Ann Fabrics enjoying this on their skin.

Tilda Swinton asked for cozy, and "Like This" is a play on words from the UK spelling "cosy", which gets extrapolated to "comme ci" or "Like This" in French. Etat Libre d'Orange delivered on cozy and as mentioned, must have just shoved everything she asked for (and them some) into a single perfume without structuring it a la Guerlain Jicky (1889), itself famous for not really having a heart. The result of this is delivering on what she asked but being extremely on-the-nose about it, which may also be what she was looking for, who's to say? Like This was really popular for a while, and the most popular Etat Libre d'Orange my local niche shop sold until they dropped the line (for being "too weird" says the owner), which seems about right considering how it smells and the actress originally backing it. Once more, I totally get why people like this, as it is pretty much comfort food for the nose if what comforts you comes in a Kohl's circular or has "Martha Stewart Living" somewhere on it. I don't really dig this vibe myself but jokes aside, can see the quality if not necessarily agree with the price for what is effectively another air freshener-turned-niche-perfume experience, so I'll compromise. Neutral.
12th June, 2021

Exit the King by Etat Libre d'Orange

The pepper/jasmine/muguet/"soap foam accord" combo smells vaguely vegetal and aquatic: seaweed? Not exactly, but borderline. So, the king of a sand castle, as befits a perfume "inspired by the fall of patriarchal power."

The PR hyperbole says it's "resolutely chypre," but since there's no bergamot, labdanum, or oakmoss, "I do not think that means what you think it means." (The same comment applies to "the fall of patriarchal power," unless this is perfume that hasn't happened yet.) Buried beneath is a base of post-IFRA tree moss alongside fairly indistinct patchouli, an unconvincing sandalwood accord, and Orcanox brand ambroxide.

Mild, and mildly pleasant, but not something I'd really rock as, per the title, Elvis has left the building.
12th June, 2021

Spicebomb Infrared by Viktor & Rolf

Sweeter, younger, modernized Spicebomb? Almost like 1 million DNA was added? Maybe it’s just the added fruity notes. I actually get more cinnamon in the opening than the original.

Feels like a mix of modern, spicy-rich, compliment-pulling scents like 1 Million prive, gentlemen only absolute, Bulgari man in black.

Projects well during the first couple hours and then settles down. Lasts all day.
11th June, 2021