Perfume Reviews

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Total Reviews: 160926

Canfield Cedar by Kerosene

It's true to its name - cedar, and not much else. Associations with a hamster cage are unavoidable.
03rd December, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Calandre by Paco Rabanne

Galbanum, rose and hyacinth are the tree nites that dominated the opening phase on me. A delightful hyacinth, a good rose blossom with a green and leafy side developing with time, and a galbanum that is deep and multi-layered and brightened up by some bergamot.

The drydown adds a nice muguet, a traditional jasmine, as well as s deeper orris that adds additional depth. The florals are well-balanced and never really sweet.

The base is an earthy affair, with a vetiver continuing to adds more depth, with a good soft oakmoss together with an ambery set of white musks continuing the earth and deeper base notes. There is a wood note in the background, a pale and weak sandalwood.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, as well as a tremendous longevity of thirteen hours on my skin.

A rich, confident, and complex scent for spring evenings, composed of ingredients of a very high quality. A rich, satisfying and confident composition. 3.75/5.
03rd December, 2020

Tioga by Shaklee

Fresh, clean, masculine and mature. This is one of the only proper scents I remember my dad wearing during my youth. It’s not in the style of something I’d want to wear now but it doesn’t smell cheap.

Classic 70s to 80s fougere on par with Azzaro pH and Quorum. The opening is a blast of alcohol but then you get that old school clean with more bitterness than sweetness.

Listed as cologne strength but this projects very well during the first few hours. Calms down deeper into the scent but the longevity lasts 9-10 hours.
03rd December, 2020
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Inception by Zarko Perfume

Reminds me of stale aldehydes at first. A bit "off".

Green flowery, green leaves, slightly soapy and muted. Nothing outstanding so far...

Not much for stamina. It fades away to a whisper, not developing much further in character. An almost non-scent. Dull and boring.
03rd December, 2020

Ambre Noir by Brécourt

I'm a fan of cistus so, this already gets a thumbs-up. Mixed with bergamot, if seems kind of boozy to me, like a liqueur.

The middle is a dark floral with the "amber" accord creeping in. It's a bit sweet and a bit bitter, at times. A good mix of notes here. It flows smoothly.

The base in amber in its best form. Well-mixed notes create a sweet, resiny fragrance. If I needed another Amber scent in my collection, this one would be a consideration for purchase... It just gets better with time. A quality scent.
03rd December, 2020

Ambre d'Alexandrie by Boucheron

Shisa. Narguile. Tobacco. These linguistic markers seem to converge on the same note I encounter with such frequency that oversaturation is on the near horizon if not closer. Neutral from my wearing because it is still a quality, pleasant blend. Tobacco lovers would be wise to take heed of rogalal’s observation of the sweet wood dry down. Boucheron’s Ambre is quite long-lived with a tenacious sweetness that is the last to leave the party. Amber? Alexandria never heard of her.

Review based on a carded spray vial. As of the time of this writing discounters have this about $85-100 for 4.1 oz.
03rd December, 2020 (last edited: 02nd December, 2020)

Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

TF Signature Beau de Jour EDP sample
(2020) -

Yes!......Wait.....Definitely!.....Maybe.

My top 5 in this style are Azzaro pour Homme, Aramis Tuscany, Brut, Drakkar Noir, and Gucci Nobile.

I enjoyed wearing Beau de Jour as its understated shaving cream vibe is right in my wheelhouse, but how often would I reach for it?

At $150 for 100 ml this one has holiday wish list for the mature gentleman written all over it. I knew this beard would pay off eventually!

3.5 stars
02nd December, 2020

Memoir Woman by Amouage

Calling all Suicide Girls come get your Dimetapp-laced absinthe. The quality is there, no doubt, but Memoir is a young person’s game in my opinion. Yeah, I had Poison back in the early 90s I wouldn’t argue there’s no likeness although I think Memoir’s dampness gets a little swampy in overall feel. And it’s an Amouage if you’re not going to commit don’t bother. On me it’s going to be less bar association and more ready for the Slytherin PTA meeting. There’s already more than enough genderbended Geralt of Rivia vibe for me to tone down, I don’t need to wordlessly convey my evil plan to marry the princess’s father and run her out of the kingdom.

Thumbs down, then? Hell no, thumbs up! It a challenge I couldn’t meet, doesn’t mean someone else can’t.
02nd December, 2020

Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia by Guerlain

Flora Nerolia perfectly combines green neroli with standard orange blossom and indoles. It hints at a classic cologne, just because it incorporates some of the same ingredients, but also has the heady prettiness of a white floral perfume.

I'm surprised neroli and orange blossom don't get combined more often (neroli is a specific kind of orange blossom itself) - they smell great together and using the indoles to fuse them is clever. Nicely done!
02nd December, 2020

Cavendish by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements “Cavendish” EDP (Pipe Tobacco) -

This type of fragrance has the potential to be a pipe tobacco lovers dream or simply another entry in a long line of banal unisex tropes that smell like a candle.

Fortunately, Cavendish is the latter! Well blended and complex with the subtle addition of wood, vanilla and mild smoke. No ash here, just straight out of the pouch pipe tobacco.

Recommended pairings - Brisk weather; Crackling fireplace; Flannel; Tumbler of Bushmills.

3.5 stars
02nd December, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ultraviolet for Him / Ultraviolet Man by Paco Rabanne

Black Tanzanian pepper, Italian mint, Russian coriander - not sure about the nationalites, but the noted are quite accurate. The pepper is quite mild on me and on the bright side, as is the mint, which alhas a slightly candy-like aftertaste at times.

The drydown reveals rather a chemical patchouli with some oakmoss in the base.

I get modertate sillage, good projection, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant spring scent that is not bad, but neither convincing in concept, nor in the quality of the very bland ingredients. 2.75/5
02nd December, 2020

Hello for Him by Lionel Richie

Reminds me of a body spray version of Curve Black but without the geranium. It uses violet leaves instead so it comes off like a mix of Ferrari Uomo and Curve Black. Needless to say, it’s not the most refined scent but it’s not terrible and may even get some compliments.

Pretty good performance on my skin with above average projection and 7-8 hours of longevity.
02nd December, 2020

Eros Eau de Parfum by Versace

Versace Eros Eau de Parfum (2020) doesn't reinvent the wheel for the original Versace Eros (2013) so much as it does a subtle trick of retuning it for a broader range of contexts and potentially broader appeal. Not that the original Eros needs broader appeal mind you, since it is one of the biggest sellers on the planet among men for Versace, perhaps their biggest since Blue Jeans (1994), which it could truly be seen as a sequel to, along with Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue (2016), but the Eros line has broadened its scope anyway. The key difference between the original eau de toilette and the new eau de parfum is simply rebalancing of near-identical note structures by Olivier Pescheux from the work of Aurélien Guichard, making the EdP a little drier, darker, richer, but less projecting. Saying Eros Eau de Parfum is more mature is probably the wrong stance to have, but it certainly reads more genteel and laid back, less like a "party" in a bottle, and more like a "cocktails after work" sort of a scent, where a younger guy can stil feel fun but also not feel so ridiculous. The bottles are near-identical except for the extra bit of text on the front, which feels like a bit of a cop-out too, especially since now you can mix them up by accident on the fly and the extra text detracts from the elegance of the original bottle design. Oh well.

The opening of Versace Eros Eau de Parfum is much the same, with sweet mint and citruses vying for your attention amidst a backdrop of bubblegum-like ethyl maltol and the supposed inclusion of a "candied apple note" to the mix. Comparing the opening side-by-side with the EdT reveals no apple to my nose, but it's whatever. The heart of geranium and ambroxan is saddled by clary sage in place of tonka, although the latter does make an appearance in the dry down as part of the base. This tweak affords a bit more aromatic nuance but again doesn't change the overall smell of the scent. Various claimed wood notes join vanilla and tonka also like the original Eros, but the woody aromachemicals are now favored over the tonka and vanilla, with patchouli replacing the silver of oakmoss and/or evernyl of the original to move the composition in a greener direction. Eros eau de Parfum is still sweet but now has powdery touches and a different kind of depth, feeling like it can tackle more relaxed situations the original could not. Best use is in winter, and this one has legs for romantic evening use beyond the clubber setting of the original, with closer projection and longevity that is longer, which is also expected. I personally don't see where a lighter application of the original couldn't serve in place of this slightly-muted EdP, but that would also require re-application.

People not at all on board with Eros will not have their minds changed by this eau de parfum, and many longtime fans of the original Eros may feel this is too similar to warrant inclusion alongside it, but if you felt the sweetness was just a bit too sticky, the loudness a bit too tacky, but the overall smell pleasant, Eros Eau de Parfum may be for you. I remember my first experience with Eros was a coworker so I know for a fact that people use it wherever they want regardless of its clubber notoriety, so maybe again this release is a bit redundant because at the end of the day people where what they want where they want to where it, I don't know. Bottom line here is Versace Eros Eau de Parfum is a reigned in alternative to Eros that will cost you a slight premium over it, much like Y Eau de Parfum (2018) over the original Y by Yves Saint Laurent (2017) for men, and as many designers see the success Chanel and Dior have with concentration tweaks or variants, releases like this will become even more common. If anything was to receive an eau de parfum "upgrade", it would be Eros though, since most of the other big masculines from Versace over the 21st century still being produced are already stonks strong and too punchy or sharp to really benefit from the process. Thumbs up.
02nd December, 2020
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Pegwell Bay / GPS 21 ’30”E by Haeckels

Pegwell Bay falls into a category of scents that I think of as bitter aromatic woods. The bitters aroma comes from dry darkness of juniper berry, buchu oil, lavender and balsam fir. This aroma smells dark, piney and slightly sweet with a balsamic medicinal touch. The patchouli, vetiver, guaiacwood and mint scents add cooling deep woods base notes to the already medicinal but slightly oceanic aroma. This is a great scent to wear in late fall when the bright sunny world is preparing for a deep winter sleep. There is a healing almost mystical quality to the bitter aromatic wood of Pegwell Bay.
01st December, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Black XS for Her by Paco Rabanne

The cranberries in the opening blast cone out nicely and mix well with the tamarind blossom - together with the pink peppercorn they all make for a creative as well an original start.

The drydown sees the arrival if the Hellebore rose with an aroma of milk coffee with hints of dried meat; this merges with the top notes very nicely.

The patchouli with the massoia wood brings along a darker shadow, the massoia wood is paired with a rather generic vanilla in the background.

I get moderat sillage, good projection, and a good good nine hours in my skin.

A nice spring scent, which starts out nicely in
spite of its synthetic nature. There is some originality in it initially, buy the base is rather bland on me. 3/5.
01st December, 2020

Acqua di Giò Profumo by Giorgio Armani

How do you solve a problem like Profumo?

Profumo is in the style of fragrance that I immediately makes me think of as being "cologne-y." It's abstract and its accords don't neatly correlate to real-world aromatic experiences.

The opening of Profumo causes me to recoil a bit. There's nothing genuinely watery/ozonic/marine about the sea notes here (a version of this with a real sea spray feel, maybe some seaweed, would be much more appealing to me), and the bergamot is the "shower gel" kind, unrealistic and thin, rather than juicy and sharp. The mid and base get more interesting, though, with the smoky quality of the "incense" creeping in, but it still feels shallow to me.

I can't help but feel that Bvlgari Aqva Amara was the superior "designer incense aquatic" of this era, but nevertheless both it and Profumo would have benefited from more realism and richness being given to the notes they each list in their respective note pyramids.
01st December, 2020
JBS1 Show all reviews
United States

L for Men by Clive Christian

From Clive's site ;
Here's the list of notes.
Top notes are bright Lemon and Mandarin with a peppery kick, while the heart introduces the clean warmth of Lavender and Geranium, fresh Magnolia, Jasmine and Orris. Amber notes are complemented by touches of Tobacco, musks, Maple syrup, and the smoky seduction of Cade to finish.
So, the fragrance has changed .
Here's whatcha get.
ISO E , lavender, vetiver , pepper and some smoke
plus geranium .
You'll notice all of it.
It's ok, if you can get it at a discount or if someone is selling it at a good price here on basenotes.
I like the original wayyyyy much more.
That's about it . Nothing much more.
Now go find something interesting.
BTW, you can get TDH or Guerlan's Vetiver for really good prices.
EDT,no problem , spray your clothes a little.
01st December, 2020

Météore by Louis Vuitton

Pretty natural floral + tart grapefruit opening. The pepper comes in next, providing a brief sharpness. Underneath it all is a base that reminds me of Azzaro Chrome, clean and metallic. The floral top notes keep this feminine to me, but only in the opening. The drydown is unisex and again, has that Chrome feel to it.

01st December, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ultraviolet for Her / Ultraviolet by Paco Rabanne

This opning is quite intriguing. The pimento that starts it off is bright and fresh; the yellow capsicum is quite mild; a sweet pepper that is not that sweet.

The drydown with its kinmokusei osmanthus keep a high standard, and merges seeminglessly smoothly with the top notes. At this stage this is still a good scent.

The base combines a somewhat bland ambergis. A restrained elegant vanilla also emerges.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and nine hours hof longevity on my skin.

An interesting autumnal creation, displaying after developing a brightness and elegance that, alas, suffers from a reduced standard of quality in the base, when it becomes more generic. Overall not bad at all, and -just- in the positive realm. 3/5
30th November, 2020 (last edited: 01st December, 2020)

Mercedes-Benz Silver by Mercedes-Benz

Sour citrus, violet and vetiver. Smells clean, slightly sweet and dressed-up, a mix or mature and modern. Not a clone but it gives me a similar feel to Elysium.
30th November, 2020

Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat by Guerlain

Sweet lemon candy that slowly fades into slightly fusty bergamot. A while back, I sampled a bunch of classic lime colognes and this reminds me of them (if someone told me this was supposed to smell like lime, I would believe them - it's more sugary citrus candy than anything specific), though without the odd bathroom odors that the rest of the genre incorporates (thank goodness!). Perfectly pleasant, if a little sweeter than I'd prefer.
30th November, 2020

Angélique Noire by Guerlain

Sparkly creme soda, dusty cardboard, flatpack wood furniture, yellowed old newspapers, and the woody smell of an old, dusty attic, all surrounded by an almost terpine green sourness. Given time, it all settles into highly sweetened (but still dusty) oak with those sour greens on top. Over the course of the day, the vanilla swallows everything until this ends up as vanilla cupcake frosting with lingering greens.

Angelica is not a smell I know well from perfumes, though I'm vaguely familiar with the smell of the actual plants, which register to me as a sort of generic green shrubby smell with a pollen edge. I can see how those woody and dusty smells in Angélique Noire simulate that, but I would never have guessed that was what they were going for without knowing their description.

Instead, this is more of a gourmand with woody greens.

This rides a thin line where it's almost too sweet for its own good, but manages to stay compelling and interesting for a few hours before settling into cupcake ridiculousness.
30th November, 2020

Guerlain Homme Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

I tried this ages ago when I first started getting into perfumes, didn't like it, and wrote it off as an unfortunate sell-out for years, so I'm here to officially admit I was wrong and that Guerlain Homme is actually quite good, and nowhere near the derivative trash I and others have unfairly called it.

In a way, it all comes down to that "mojito" accord, a mix of airy metallic lavender with mint and juniper berry that gives the illusion of alcohol fumes and hints at green liqueurs and absinthe. That metallic lavender has been over-used in men's designer scents and is one of the ingredients in the dreaded "woody amber" aquatic smell. Mercifully, Homme is not a "woody amber" though the topnote hints at it, leading to this often and unfortunately being written off by perfume snobs.

After the "mojito" fades, I'm left with mostly juniper berry, simultaneously smelling of pine and calling to mind the classic masculine 80's scents that were built on it. Meanwhile, there's a pie-spiced fougere drydown happening in parallel with the juniper berry, adding nuance and warmth.

This is all very well orchestrated. I'm happy to admit I was wrong, but sad that this formulation was discontinued before I realized how good it was.
30th November, 2020

Eros Eau de Parfum by Versace

Quite strong like the original and the scent is very close but it does feel a little darker and heavier. I am liking this more than the EdT, just smells more refined. Could be the marketing but I’ve never thought much of the original while this is starting to grow on me.

Big projection during the first hour and then calms down some but consistently keeps projecting in a smaller bubble.
30th November, 2020

Fath Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath

Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath (1998) is another one of those former "amazing cheapies" known to collectors in the online fragrance community, before scalpers, flippers, and would-be discontinued fragrance "brokers" started seeing surplus stock of unwanted and unloved perfume as a potential money-maker hustle a la limited edition Nike sneakers. Now, I'm not saying that Pour l'Homme is some overpriced unicorn just yet, but with prices creeping up on what original retail would be nowadays and over double what it was when this was first crowned a cheapie (as of this writing), I can't really review Pour l'Homme with the framing of it being some immense value anymore. What Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath is for the uninitiated, is a sweet men's gourmand/oriental hybrid that touches upon several themes that would be exploited in later years, perfumed by a quirky and underrated fellow by the name of Olivier Gillotin, who would acquire infamy being a house perfumer of sorts for the fly-by-night Ed Hardy brand administrated by the late Christian Audigier and a frequent contributor to the Tom Ford Private Blend line. Long before Gillotin created for either of these two larger-than-life designers, he was hired to make this masculine pillar for Jacques Fath, which by the 90's had parted ways with former license holder L'Oréal and became the subject of several year-after-year turnovers from different buyers. How this stuff ever saw launch amidst all that turmoil or even survived in the market for so long as it did remains a mystery, but perhaps that's why it remained a discounter favorite for so long. Stylistically, this is a sweet and rounded fragrance, with warmth and lasting projection, fit for attention getting, but also possibly too cloying for people who aren't fans of this vibe.

Pour l'Homme by Jacques Fath opens like a number of 90's clubbers/proto-clubbers, with a sweet blast of citrus, mint, and fruity tones provided by grapefruit, raspberry, and a rich fatty vanilla. Lavender joins in with the raspberry and I am reminded in part of Yves Saint Laurent Opium pour Homme (1995), plus hints of cocoa, nutmeg, cinnamon, and the aforementioned vanilla to make the gourmand connection. The real value of Pour l'Homme, why it was so beloved as a well-kept secret when found for $20 online years ago, is the transition from this gourmand oriental phase to a musky creamy tobacco, amber, and patchouli, and tonka scent that touches upon several things that would later arc off into their own mini-genres. The tobacco is mostly afforded by the tonka, mixing with olibanum and the fruity tones to sort of inform later scents like both Michael by Michael Kors (2001), Southern Blend by Tim McGraw (2009), and Keith Urban Phoenix (2011). The amber and musk in particular recall the slight animalic twang of that last one minus the boozy note, while the creaminess of the wood tones and amber make Pour l'Homme feel like a missing link between those scents and earlier ones like Avon Mesmerize for Men (1992) or any number of ambery 80's masculines that precede it. Wear time is pretty good at about 10 hours, and sillage is ever-present, but possibly cloying with over-spray. Eventually you are left with the amber, patchouli, tonka, and a fatty musk that recalls Paul Sebastian Fine Cologne (1979), feeling cozy and attractive. Best use is winter but this also could pull duty in a clubbing situation due to its sweetness, although stuff this rich and opaque in tone feels more romantic to me, especially since clubbers are effectively over-amplified youthful casual scents anymore.

Olivier Gillotin was clearly onto something by mixing amber, tonka and musks in a blender to resemble tobacco, because these kinds of sweet "tonkabacco" scents would become all the rage later on, kicked off by Gillotin's own work when he returned to the idea for Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (2007). Paco Rabanne's sugary 1 Million (2008) and Dolce & Gabbana's The One for Men (2008) would eventually uncouple the heavier oriental properties from this style, making it more mainstream. The thing that ties Pour l'Homme most to its decade of origin is the bridge between the ambery sweetness of these more-modern developments and the classy semi-oriental fougère tones that Gillotin carried over from other 90's sweet masculines, plus the far more overtly-gourmand inclusion of raspberry and chocolate. This same overt gourmand quality is also found in the aforementioned Michael for Men, just with plum in place of raspberry. Scents like these now oddly feel niche because most readily-accessible examples have been eradicated through discontinuation, while modern alternatives are almost unerringly marketed at luxury price points a la Xerjoff, Parfums de Marly, and the like. Pour l'Homme doesn't have the legendary status of Green Water by Jacques Fath (1947), which was revived in 1993 and eventually saw repackaging similar to this scent, being another possible cause to its under-the-radar status for so long. Bottles of Pour l'Homme in one of two packaging styles still turn up at discounters, but prices are creeping up, so getting to try this for a reasonable price is getting more difficult, but isn't impossible unless you're catching this review years after it was written. If the latter is the case, it's still worth getting a decant to see what all the fuss was about, especially if you're a lover of this style. Thumbs up.
30th November, 2020

Hasu-no-Hana by Grossmith

Intoxicating and bewitching.

No matter how many times I smell this, I am always struck anew by its unusual beauty. Its opening salvo alone could be used to revive the fainting, thanks to its bracing top notes of bergamot and bitter orange. What an amazing olfactory rush...wow! As others have noted, Hasu No Hana is a kind of mash-up of Shalimar and something amazingly green and chypre-ish. And for someone like me, who is averse to Shalimar's uber-feminine charms, it is the vetiver and combination of wood notes here that keep this firmly in unisex territory and also provides a piquancy that I adore. There is something about this combination of notes that reminds me of sticky pine sap resin--a scent I relish.
29th November, 2020

Fantomas by Nasomatto

Odd and maybe even challenging but it's not bad and is definitely unique.

I kept trying to place the familiar smell I get in Fantomas but couldn't place it until I read some of the notes reported, including rubber, plastic, earthy notes and gunpowder. Those I do actually get from Fantomas along with melon, but this is no fruity scent.

It finally hit me what I was reminded of by some of those odd notes, a shipping warehouse full of cardboard boxes in the colder months, which I have access to at my job. The boxes are what I first thought of but I knew it was more than just that. It is the whole combination of industrial and working elements in the building that has a similar smell. Again, this isn't a bad smell but surely it is unique.

The familiar Nasomatto musty-earthiness that I associate with Black Afgano is probably the main note that I get here. It's not near as powerful or room-filling as BA but it has very good performance. The projection is persistent and long-lasting even on minimal sprays.
29th November, 2020

Boss Bottled Eau de Parfum by Hugo Boss

An Armani Code Profumo/Ysl La Nuit de l'Homme-first cousin and a change in direction if compared with the original (and greater) Boss Bottled EDT formula. A dry fruity opening (in which you could detect the acid/sweet twist from green apple) supported by a huge dose of cardamom and peppery sweet spices (cinnamon/nutmeg) morphing gradually down towards a warmer woody base really spicy/rooty, with a hint of not listed leather and something kinda nutty (walnuts?). A huge amount of spicy cedarwood (cinnamon/nutmeg) and cardamom are dominant under my profane nose. Boss Bottled Parfum is a woody-spicy masculine fragrance. While the original Boss Bottled edt formula was a more balanced lighter aromatic classic with a lighter woodiness provided by olivewood and a final semi-oriental touch (a brighter fragrance more marked by aromatics, dry floral notes, a softer spiciness and by a soothing final vanillic touch) this Parfum version is drier, dustier, woodier and spicier with no floral frills, much more "pepper", a tiny touch of resins and leather and a stouter piquant woody (vaguely pencil shaving) feel slightly conjuring me up smokier/more somber scents a la Montana Graphite, Gucci Pour Homme I or De Balmain Carbone.
29th November, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Olympéa Intense by Paco Rabanne

The floral opening is a triadic floral beauty: orange blossom is prominent, joined by a lovely grelapefruit blossom, with a restrained gossamer weave of white peppers subtly woven into the dyadic mix. Delightful, original, quite unique, intense and not too sweet.

A salted tonka that arises a bit later is not very intense but interesting. Woodsy components, mainly cedar, and a good lashing of white amber and hints of a dry amber burst onto the scene during this fragrance experience.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and an oustanding longevity of eleven hours on my skin.

A fine scent for spring evenings that is beautifully blended for high-quality ingredients. A bit tailing off in intensity with time, but managing to keep enough presence to be here. 3.75/5
29th November, 2020
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Italian Censored / Italian Angel by O'Driù

Italian Angel opens with a warm ylang-ylang derived banana, with hints of natural citrus fruit and underlying dark chocolatey coffee before quickly transitioning to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart the banana and citrus vacate, leaving the dark chocolatey coffee remaining as star, but gradually folding just slightly sweet pipe tobacco into the mix with a subtle dulled rose floral undertone. During the late dry-down the perfume morphs into a relatively gentle woody vetiver affair, as the tobacco gradually recedes and finally vacates before the finish. Projection is average, but longevity is very good to excellent at just under 12 hours on skin.

I have had a sample of Italian Angel lying around for about five years now... I think the negative impression received when I tried the Ven-Det-Ta trio of duds from the house directly before it, made me question if the extremely talented Angelo Orazio Pregoni had finally "lost it," and resultantly I passed over trying the perfume back then. Now coming back to my sample all these years later, I confess I made a mistake. All the deficiencies I found in the "terrible trio" are avoided in Italian Angel. Instead, the perfume is not only quite wearable (something that O'driu, despite my love for the house is frequently lacking), but does a very good job of presenting the wearer with a true fragrance journey. The composition starts out with warm banana and citrus fruit, but then turns into an almost semi-gourmand with its chocolatey black coffee, then brings things back from gourmand territory by adding the natural smelling pipe tobacco sans the typical hyper-sweetness one frequently finds. By the time the wearer gets to the late dry-down, the perfume morphs yet again to focus on the woody facet of vetiver, while toning down the sharpness usually found. In short, I love it. The bottom line is the approximately $200 (160 Euros) per 50ml bottle Italian Angel is an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rated interesting and exciting perfume journey by Angelo Orazio Pregoni that is highly recommended to both classically structured perfume lovers, and fans of innovative perfume brands like Slumberhouse alike.
29th November, 2020
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