Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 162519
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Élixir Le Parfum by Payot

A sweet opening with a touch of spiciness - the latter due to an agreeable frangipani, with most of the sweetness coming form the neroli, the dominant one of the two. Quite bright.

later on it turns a bit darker, with a dark rose added in; here is a lovely myrrh impression, with an underlying balsamic hint due to the Amyris wood being noticeable too. Towards the end lashing of white musks develop, with additional sweetness provided by a vanilla impression.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and six hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice sweet floral for warmer spring days that is crafted well, but a tad generic at times, but mostly it is expressive and rich. Overall 3.25/5

09th March, 2021

Le Lion de Chanel by Chanel

Opening is the trademark Chanel Adelhydic bubbly. Animalic Musk is artfully placed into a bouquet charged with an elegant Labdanum Patchouli heart of Fem leather. All finely orchestrated in classic Chanel loveliness. Neutral marks as it bases in Contemporary Chanel, generic Woody Amber Aromachemical Compound. Nice try by the Polge Jr, however I'll take my dose of Chanel animalic from Vintage Cuir de Russie EDC.
08th March, 2021

Nanshe by Nishane

Feminine, clean, white floral, and citrus opening. A bit headache-inducing for me as it dries down. Just too much sharp, metallic, piercing white florals.

Very good projection and this stuff lasts all day on me. Excellent performance.
08th March, 2021
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L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci

My review is for a decanted sample of the EDT that I obtained two days ago. I don't know how old it is, but since L'Arte di Gucci was launched in 1991 and discontinued in 1994 it probably doesn't matter.

The roses and aldehyde jump out immediately. It's very reminiscent of the rose note in Montale's Black Aoud. At this point I was nervous. I can't tolerate Black Aoud for long.

But after five minutes or so L'Arte smoothes out into something soft, beautiful, and almost kinda...sorta... nsfw. Wow, definitely. And this is just the EDT.

Oh, this is a heartbreaking fragrance to have fallen for.
08th March, 2021

Bandit by Robert Piguet

My review is for a sample of Bandit EDP that I received two days ago from on online site called I'm not sure what vintage it is, but it appears to be a 1ml decant.

My first impression is-- wow. I can't say anything about it that hasn't been said.

This is Chanel No. 19's much older sister. She sits in a dark corner of the bar, drinks absinthe, and tells stories about the war. She wears a black leather jacket given to her by Ernest Hemingway (that jacket is where the smell of smoke comes from btw. She kicked the habit ages ago).

If you are a man, can you wear this? If you have to ask, the answer is no.
08th March, 2021

The One for Men Eau de Parfum Intense by Dolce & Gabbana

Interesting from just looking at the D&G The One line by itself. What I mean is that this is different from the others in this lineup but nothing terribly unique outside of it.

The One EdP Intense doesn't have the same feel as the rest of the line. It's more sweet, powdery, smooth, and airy. Something else interesting is that on skin, it doesn't remind me much of The One EdT or EdP. But on paper or clothes, yeah, it's there, in the background. Very quietly in the background, but I did eventually find it.

It is very seductive and feels best for date nights.

Best comparisons would be that it feels like Replica Jazz Club with The One's DNA laced in. It also has the softness and sweetness from something like LeMale Parfum.

Off my skin, this was pretty loud and really projected for the first 2-3 hours. After that, it sat closer to skin and calmed down but the longevity was really good as well.
08th March, 2021

Honeysuckle by Avon

Avon began life in 1886 as the California Perfume Company, selling simple soliflores in their 3-piece "Little Dot Perfume" sets, so it makes perfect sense that they would continue with an array of various single flower or themed floral bouquets throughout their history. From carnation to hyacinth, rose and lilac, Avon covered most of the usual bases between the 19th and 20th centuries, turning to more unusual choices like honeysuckle for the simply-named Avon Honeysuckle (1963). My mom was particularly fond of this perfume, and always wanted to have some on hand whenever Avon periodically returned it to the catalogs, so I grew up smelling it throughout the house as an young child. Back then I never really put much thought into how much like actual honeysuckle it really smelled and I doubt she did either, because when going outside to play and smelling the honeysuckles growing wild near my home, I never thought to compare them side-by-side with my mom's perfume. While I haven't really had the luxury of doing that either as an adult, I can say that at least from my mind's eye of what honeysuckle smells like, this stuff gets the job done. There isn't much more that can be asked of an inexpensive perfume than to smell like what it claims to smell like, so I'll just leave it at that.

The opening of Honeysuckle right away recalls the smell of the wild flower, with a sweet aldehyde and indole mixture that leads straight away into an impression of honeysuckle, mixed with some orange blossom and muguet for body. This becomes the bulk of the perfume and I can't say there is really much transition here, nor really an actual heart to the perfume, as you slowly settle into more indolic musk both creamy and slightly fatty/animalic like the residue of real honeysuckle (or even the similar-smelling but unrelated jasmine). A bit of benzoin honey note and that soft creamy musk float up with some oakmoss and probably just a pinch of what feels like sandalwood (back when you could afford placing it in a cheap perfume), but that's it. You smell like honeysuckle, or at least the closest approximation of honeysuckle I can reasonably tell without having a side-by-side (honeysuckle doesn't grow where I live now), and it's pleasant. I can see why my mom liked this, as it's happy and clean, innocent and easy to wear, unlike some of the big shoulderpads and perms type stuff she wore out in the those days (the 80's). This is from a vintage 60's sample, but I don't recall her 80's-bought bottles smelling any different. Wear time is eight hours, and performance is on the mild side of moderate, as expected.

If it wasn't implied, a fragrance like Honeysuckle is made for spring or summer use, casual use, outdoor use, or after a shower. The smell of honeysuckle can be relaxing much like jasmine, especially if it's not paired up with rose or spices to make it more of a "sultry red light" kind of shindig that many jasmine perfumes turned into after the initial opening. This definitely isn't that kind of experience, but the bright yellow-capped bottles and floral pattern boxes they came in more or less communicated that right away. I'd call this unisex because soliflores to me are academic perfume subjects devoid of gender assignment, but my better angels tell me that isn't what the conventionally-minded CIS hetero folks reading this review will think, so I'll say that if you side with societal norms, Avon Honeysuckle will read extremely feminine. I think anyone who enjoys the smell of flowers, and particularly honeysuckle, needs to smell some of this. Avon Honeysuckle sells at varying prices for varying vintages but overall is inexpensive if you're not picky about form or format, so grabbing a small bottle for burger cash is very much possible at least until supply dries up or they re-issue it again. There's not much else to say, and I like honeysuckle, so I like this. Thumbs up.
08th March, 2021

Dior Homme Eau de Toilette (2020 version) by Christian Dior

This has been thoroughly reviewed so I won't wax lyrical. Enough to say this is, for me, another perfectly balanced elegant,smooth Patchouli. Demachy is back into my good books. I would have to say that if it wasn't for my large bottle of Pavarotti, I might be tempted.
08th March, 2021

Bulgari Man Glacial Essence by Bulgari

A modern mainstream woody-fougère (basically not so distant from scents a la Gaultier le Beau Male, Byblos Uomo, Carolina Herrera 212 Men, Parfums de Marly Percival or Bond N.9 Wall street) with an icy aromatic added spark. Anyway on my skin this is more a warm fragrance than an icy one. Morillas effectively enriches and crystallizes a basic floral-cedary-musky-boisé accord by implementing a balsamic synth calonic icy-glacial "molecule" (Alaska Essence Clearwood) but the aroma tends finally to smell more restrained and warm on me. Geranium (violet leaves as well?), juniper, musk and woods are dominant under my nose. The juice is cool, frosty-metallic, calonic, finally woody-spicy, vaguely ozonic and dynamic. Dry down is more rounded and soapy but still virile and peppery (and powerful on intense sandalwood).
07th March, 2021 (last edited: 08th March, 2021)

Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma

My review is for a carded sample of the EDT.

Iris Nobile is like a garden experienced at a distance. The iris takes a back seat to the other flowers far too quickly, but overall it's a beautiful etched-in-air mirage.

No soap, thankfully. The longer I smell it, the more I like it, and the more I think I will find a sample of the EDP.

This would be appropriate for an office setting.

Not much projection or sillage, and it's probably too feminine for most men to want to wear.

My husband likes it on me, says it's one of the best fragrances I've tried so far. I'm giving this a thumbs up, and I'm going to find the EDP.
07th March, 2021

Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana

This review is for a carded sample of the EDT. My sample has been kept in a cool, dark place but it is about four years old.

My first impression is of soap. A tart green apple and a bar of soap. Light, fresh, clean.

It develops a sort of aquatic vibe after about 30 minutes, and I'm reminded of Acqua di Gio. And soft white flowers. A cool breeze, like an early Spring morning. The jasmine is light and very chaste.

I think men could wear this easily. It belongs somewhere on the CK One spectrum for sure.

Use it with a light hand for the office. It's only an EDT but it's quite strong.

Not my cup of tea in general but I can certainly understand why people like it.
07th March, 2021

L'Amandière by Heeley

l'Amandiere is a high quality blend of florals, green and a light almond note. The greenery is that of green grass, not galbanum, and combined with the woodiness in the base it gives a very fresh, slightly vegetal, almost mulchy smell, like forest crunching under your feet in early spring.

That's when this fragrance really shines, as it's quite tenacious, not delicate. It truly sings when the snow is just melting and the crisp cool bite of winter is still lingering in the air.

I have tried both the extrait and the EDP. The extrait is a bit smoother but sits closer to the skin, as one might expect. Both versions have great longevity - several hours.
07th March, 2021

Bitter Peach by Tom Ford

"You think YOU fade fast, Lost Cherry? Hold my beer."

This review is for a sample of Bitter Peach given to me yesterday. It was obtained directly from a major department store that rhymes with jordstrom.

When I first spray it on, there's definitely a big, perfect peach note. It smells like the cooked or stewed peaches from a cobbler. Underneath the peach, the blood orange is just detectable. It's not sugary or jammy or flowery; there's a bit of sparkle or fizz that reminds me of drinking peach-flavored Perrier.

That was the first five minutes.

After that, most of Bitter Peach vanished. The dry down was faint and tedious. Rum? Maybe a whiff, but Bitter Peach is a very miserly, tightfisted bartender.

Then I detected maybe something waxy, like a nice lipstick... At first I thought of Lipstick Rose, but no. I couldn't put my finger on it. After an hour it hit me.

Carmex! The dry down smells like Carmex.

On the whole, Bitter Peach is nothing. It has no projection and no sillage. The bottle is pretty, but even typing that out feels like I'm damning with faint praise. I can't even say that this is safe for work, because most people work for money.

I couldn't possibly recommend this.
07th March, 2021
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Chergui by Serge Lutens

I realize what Im about to write down does not align with the fragance pyramid above but I have to be honest about what I perceive. For me I get the notes of vanilla extract, resin, benzoin, juniper, hay, Sandlewood and tabacco. I owe a lot to Serge Lutens. His fragrance Fille En Auguilles sent me on a fragrance journey for years and I'm still reeling. The rest of the SL scents dont take me so far, including this one. But dont get me wrong, I like Chergui and I think it is a fragrance more personal in style, and that it was created to serve a purpose rather than to impress or call attention to itself. For those who treasure balance and consistancy in their lives, I think this fragrance will serve them well. As is stated on his site Chergui "creates an effect that involves suction more than blowing". So, obviously Lutens is aware that it does not have a big projection and that it is instead rooting a person, having a settling affect. It does have good longevity, leaving a warm resonous aroma for hours that sort of hovers very close to your body and blends making it feel very natural as if it is your own actual body's smell. For that reason it is comforting and grounding. This is a scent I would layer, I have not done so yet but I think it might serve very well as a base that would nicely project and involve other fragrances.
07th March, 2021

Love in Black by Creed

I love "Love in Black". It's a little bit cheesy of me and a little gaudy, but I can't help it. It's a full power violet, rose and black currant attack. Smells like those violet hard tin candies from Flavigny. There is some musk in there as well to round it out and tame the screaming, and some kind of natural oil to give it depth and carry the intensity of the sweetness. I admit it, it's probably is over the top for some people. When would one wear it? the fair, to the beach, to a festival, or if you are like me, in your living room working from home, or on your face mask so you can secretly bask in its girl fantasy while walking your dog at 7am. Im addicted to this scent. I bought it 7 years ago when I was single because it reminded me of a lover. This is a naughty aroma and now reminds me of the sexapades from my single days, pre my wonderful married life, doh! Gotta be honest. After I got married me and my hubby wore it out. It smelled amazing on him too, believe it or not. There is something incredibly sexy about a man who can wear a girly scent...ooh yeah. I have kept yearning for it and just bought another bottle. Oh the joy! I digress, so back to "Love in Black": its playful, young, deeply girly (think barbie doll fantasies of an 8 year old, neon pink mixed with electric blue, peach and lemon meringue yellow, unicorns, sparkles, magic at the end of the rainbow...the whole mess). Ok enough! Im making myself sick. Silage...I don't care, duration about 8 hours with a dry down that is soapy and pretty, with musk and violets staying till the end. It's not for everyone, but for those who started loving perfume at 8 years old (you know the kind in those perfume making kits) and enjoyed bubble baths with those old world pharmacy bath salts; this will bring you back... way back.
07th March, 2021

Field Flowers by Avon

Avon Field Flowers (1974) has a rather innocuous name for a fragrance, and the ad copy for it is also pretty innocent to boot, stating "a fragrance of springtime, sunshine, and all the flowers in the field". This "new and beautifully delicate" fragrance as the ad states, feels to me more like a cousin to Avon Charisma (1970) than anything else, so much that it could be a flanker of it if flankers were a thing back then. Field Flowers had a big push, and the original cologne mist bottles looked like little bundles of picked wildflowers, green glass with a yellow or purple top. Overall, this is a "yellow" floral chypre, less green overall than Charisma, less emphasis on rose or soapy notes of orris, but juxtaposed with a smoothed form of civet in the base all the same. I imagine the idea here was to make a carefree fragrance that competed with stuff like Revlon Charlie (1973), but with Avon's penchant for ignoring trend-setting accords or novel molecules and doing it "their way" with whatever raw material stock or conventional perfumery styles they had stuck with for their near-century existence up to that point, assured any comparison unfair. A staid and simplistic design with anonymous in-house perfumers and quality self-sourced naturals housed in eye-catching if somewhat tacky bottles people would often buy blind from magazine adverts was how Avon got you so much for your money in those days, and it sits in stark contrast to the avant-garde of the designer perfume world of the day. I like Field Flowers and recommend trying it, but before going further must say that this is almost a poster child for run-of-the-mill 70's Avon.

The opening of Field Flowers mimics Charisma in most respects but one: no galbanum. Field Flowers has the same soft bergamot opening followed by notes of rose, jasmine, but only a bit of orris and not enough to really give a noticeable savon accord (until the late dry down). Lily of the valley raw materials (probably lyral as was popular then) also enter here, and some fleshy tuberose followed with some marigold to really strike out that "field flowers effect" come next. Somewhere between Patou Joy (1970) and Chanel No. 5 (1921) but obviously without the aldehydes or the same level of consummate blending is the heart of Field Flowers, being it has half the notes anyway. Civet, vetiver, oakmoss, and labdanum come next to finish up Field Flowers in a smooth yellow ochre glow that could really be any such floral from the 50's or 60's, which is probably part of why Field Flowers got lost in the mix after only a few years and Charisma stayed on the books. Ultimately, once everything settles onto skin, what you have here with Avon Field Flowers is a floral chypre, fairly academic with no frills, using basic design to imply a meadow of gold as the adverts claim, then drying down into a semi-soapy, semi-musky, mossy finish with just the slightest touches of powder. Anyone who loves chypres can wear Field Flowers, but it has a decidedly "good girl" vibe to it that goes counter to the tomboyish free-spirited citric floral green chypre that was Revlon Charlie. Wear time reaches 8 hours and performance is admirable despite the cologne labeling, with Field Flowers feeling distantly spring-like.

There's not a ton to separate Field Flowers from other Avon floral chypres of the time like Avon Unspoken (1975) or Avon Emprise (1976) besides the pastoral quietude implied by the floral arrangement. A lot of chypres Avon made at this time took different paths to the same destination, which is to say no different than their iterative compositional style in other decades, swapping out bases with fresh top notes, or making fragrances that could be flankers of other fragrances but without being marketed or named such. If you like anything I've named, you'll likely enjoy Field Flowers too, and if you just generally like vintage 70's floral chypres anyway, you can't go wrong. Avon Field Flowers won't have the sass or wherewithal of designer fare of the decade coming from the likes of Givenchy, Chanel, Dior, Balmain, and Hermès, but it does have similar quality just being used to paint a more serene picture with fewer brush strokes. If you go looking for Field Flowers, you can find the full suite of foaming bath oil, creme and powder sachets, soaps, and more in a host of containers ranging from bucolic to bizarre. The fact so much of these accessory products still exist tells me that unlike classics such as Charisma, a lot of this sat unused after purchase or gifting. Still, even a B-side for vintage Avon is better than most modern designer A-sides in this genre anymore thanks to materials restrictions, so someone specifically looking for this unintentionally postmodern chypre style can start here rather than pay a luxury or artisanal brand a fortune for similar. Thumbs up
07th March, 2021

Zany by Avon

Avon Zany (1979) is a fragrance from right around the period where Avon was peaking as a mainstream perfume juggernaut in the US and expanding globally, starting to diversify further into cosmetics, and acquiring other businesses to build their empire into higher market tiers like the designer luxury world. As history would have it, most of these choices would be mistakes, and like Sears, Avon Products would pay dearly for straying away from what they were excellent at in subsequent years for attempting to put their hands in everyone's cookie jar. For now however, we have a fragrance from a house at near-peak creativity, when good natural raw materials were still plentiful and economically feasible (real oakmoss and sandalwood hooray), but made to a budget and therefore kept relatively simple and wearable, as Avon was wont to do. Feminine market fragrances of the sixties through late seventies benefited even more from Avon's golden era than their masculines did, which is saying something because Avon went all-in on those when they discovered there was an untapped market after the blowout success of the original Avon for men (1949) line, since women's fragrances were already successful and had been for nearly a century by that point, meaning the R&D was already there rather than in development like their men's line.

For this reason, Zany comes across like you might expect, and is a perfume with a lot of traditional refinement packed into deceptively then-modern bottle with cheeky graphics. This was just before Avon really started trying to "keep up with the Joneses" by mimicking designer fragrance tropes with their feminine fragrances, although they had already to some degree been doing this with their men's scents of the time, since they wanted to play it safe and deliver things they know guys pretty much already liked. Not the case with their feminine fragrance selections, which had cultivated generations of customers and were a world unto themselves of classic perfumery interpreted and re-interpreted again and again throughout the decades with very little regard for trend or trope. Therefore, Zany is a powdery floral very much like something you'd expect Guerlain or Parfums D'Orsay to deliver at the turn of the 20th century. A sharp dry bergamot opening that quickly burns off into powdery mixtures of orange blossom, heliotrope, orris, and jasmine bring us in at first glance, reminding me of Etiquette Bleue by Parfums D'Orsay (1908) in particular, or the cologne version from a few years later. The base is sandalwood, patchouli, a bit of vanilla, and oakmoss, further accenting the powdery nature of the fragrance into the skin feel. Wear time is about 8 hours and sharp pangs of the scent can be detected throughout the wear.

Suggested use for something like this is pretty much at your discretion because they don't make stuff like this anymore in the mainstream, and you'll likely get called out for smelling "like a grandma" for wearing it. That said, Zany really isn't zany at all, unless they somehow thought making a prim powdery floral from the Victorian or Edwardian age was flippant and irreverent in comparison to what everyone else was doing, then maybe so. Like so many of the amazing-quality but unsung chypres and orientals Avon shoved onto the market in the 70's, Zany goes by unloved and sold for peanuts in the aftermarket, when designer specimens of similar vintage and quality can cost the price of a new laptop. Maybe some of this derision is the house image of being cheap derivative garbage, something they did to themselves in the late 80's through 90's when they thought it best to pork out their catalog with downmarket twists on designer fragrance DNA (some of those are interesting too) made on the quick and dirty. Maybe some of it is just the near-bucolic nature of the utter simplicity Avon used in their designs, something ironically lauded in today's niche realms where scents are either soliflores or strict subject exercises with maybe 6 notes total. Either way, if you like high-quality vintage-style powdery florals, it would be zany not to sample this scent. Thumbs up.
07th March, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

El Attarine by Serge Lutens

The opening is dominated by cumin, with an immortelle playing the second violin; the latter is spicy but not intrusively so.

Florals appear soon after the beginning, dark ones like violet mainly, with some component of violet leaves of me too. The rather weak orange blossoms attempt to add further floral aroma is unsuccessful in face of the cumin dominance. In the background I get an impression of raisins.

Woodsy notes are also present, mainly a somewhat generic cedar, with touches of an anaemic sandalwood making a transient appearance also.

I get soft sillage, adequate projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for warmer autumn days is a bit on the predictable side, although the combination of immortelle and cumin works quite well. Whilst there are some nice moments, its main drawback is a lack of vividness and a certain blandness of its components on me. 2.75/5
06th March, 2021
drseid Show all reviews
United States

Murkwood by Pineward Perfumes

Murkwood moves right past any detectable top notes on skin, shifting straight to its heart. As the composition enters its early heart, a dominant dark coniferous green fir accord takes the fore with a subtle black licorice and black current supporting tandem undertone and with hints of additional supporting green tree moss. During the late dry-down the composition softens as the coniferous green fir remains the focus, shedding its dark facet and the licorice undertone as it adds supporting stark incense to the mix through the finish. Projection is below average but longevity is excellent at over 12 hours on skin.

Immediately after applying Murkwood on skin I knew this was some great smelling stuff. The composition is highly linear and doesn't feature a ton of key notes throughout, but what *is* there, is sublime. The coniferous green fir that is the focus of most of the development is potent and extremely life-like. The perfume near-certainly contains gobs of high quality naturals, and the dark green juice color coupled with the 34% extrait concentration stained my skin and I am sure would do the same to clothing. The incense is less forward than the fir, and early-on I really couldn't smell it until the fir softened during the dry-down to allow the it to emerge from hiding, adding another facet to the relatively straightforward development. If there is a perfume that is in the general ballpark of Murkwood (apart from its discontinued excellent smelling sister scent Fanghorn), it would have to be the initial release of Norne by Sumberhouse. Norne is great smelling stuff, but I think I like Murkwood a hair more. The bottom line is the $128 per 37ml extrait bottle Murkwood represents an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rated life-like approximation of a walk through a dark coniferous forest, earning a strong recommendation to lovers of compositions like Norne in particular, but all coneheads should apply.
06th March, 2021

Dune by Christian Dior

This review is for the Esprit de Parfum concentration of Christian Dior's Dune.

I'm at a loss to describe it. It's glorious. I wish I were better at identifying notes and layers. It's not floral, it's not sweet, it's not light. It's not pheromone sexy but it is warm and sort of delicious. Slightly spicy but not cinnamon. There must be some sort of vanilla, which I usually do NOT like, but whatever is happening here works. It's a much rounder or layered vanilla.

It's not soapy.

You could wear it to work, if you were careful. This Esprit concentration is pretty strong.

A man could wear this. Absolutely yes.

Whatever Dune is, it's a thumbs up from me. It's dark and dry and pairs perfectly the Dune 2021 trailer. (I hope the movie will be good, but if not, we'll always have Dune 1984, with Sting in that codpiece.)

Edited to add: The dry down is somewhat reminiscent of vintage Obsession.
06th March, 2021

Essence Musk by Ferrari

Clean, light, and fruity opening. Reminds me of the scent of nice hair products. As it dries down, the clean musk is still most prominent but a salty, light cedarwood starts to show up in the middle. That light, airy cedar stays to the end, suggesting a possible dose of ISO-E Super.

I'm actually surprised at how pleasing Essence Musk turns out to be, overall. It's a good day scent and feels very versatile, unisex even.

Projection is fine but nothing impressive and goes for 2-3 hours. After that, the skin scent lasts for most of the day.
06th March, 2021

Féminité du Bois by Serge Lutens

It's a bit of a paradox. Woody and soft and the same time, with cinnamon floating above it.

My problem with it is that it seems to disappear on my skin. I can't smell it after an hour. This is not acceptable for an EDP, especially one in the Lutens price range.

But I am going to give it the benefit of the doubt. Maybe the problem is me.

It's possible, just possible, that my nose is burned out. That it's fried. That it's totally desensitized from all the 80's fragrances I grew up loving.

Maybe the huge shoulder pads combined with Poison did some kind of lasting damage. The atmosphere of 1984 was 51% Giorgio, as the Good Lord intended, but does that mean that years later I can't enjoy something delicate and sophisticated like Feminite du Bois?

Am I suffering from the Obsession Effect?

Or do I just have a weak sample. I think I will withhold final judgement, obtain another sample, and try this one again. Stay tuned.
05th March, 2021

Burberry Body by Burberry


I thought I would definitely find some sort of apple note on the fragrance pyramid. It was so clear! But no, the pyramid says peach.

I did not expect to like this. I was annoyed with it before I even tried it, because it's one of those ubiquitous "free samples" that I intend to get around to, but never actually do. Time passes. Guilt increases. The samples multiply... I think they breed.

So with the odds stacked against it, I sprayed it on my wrist. It immediately brought a smile to my face. It smells a bit like YSL's Paris.

It doesn't have much projection. It's lovely and fresh, but you need to get right up to it to smell it. This was the EDT version though, so try the EDP or the Intense version if you want something bigger.
05th March, 2021
Lian Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Gold Coast by Bond No. 9

This is very synthetic, mainstream and bland. And not in a good way, but more in a cheap air freshner way
05th March, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Arabie by Serge Lutens

The opening blast is characterised by a rich and quite realistic aroma of ripe Brown figs, rich Khudri dates, and the zest of mandarins in a jam mix; the latter providing a touch of freshness.

Soon the drydown adds sweet spices, bases on a strong cumin, some clove, and a fairly creamy tonka bean, whilst and undertone of benzoin adds restrained crispness. The whole becomes quite resinous and a bi syrupy at times, but manages to avoid and intrusive heaviness.

in the base the cumin and the clove are waning gradually, but the tonka a the benzoin remain, with the occasional flare of the fruity top notes. In the background woods evolve; I get more cedar initially, then some sandalwood, and the occasional whiff of Acaju.

I get moderate sillage excellent projection, and an impressive eleven hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for cooler spring days is an olfactory depiction of the scents and aromas on the markets. It is blended very well, although at times not all the components are able to show their full potential when they are layered upon one another. The performance is excellent. 3.5/5
05th March, 2021

L'Anarchiste by Caron

A complex musky/aromatic/boisé fragrance combining a sort of initial old-school radiant neroli-centered spicy (mostly cinnamon)/waxy-nectarinic/aldehydic/floral accord with a futuristic darker minty-metallic vaguely surgical aura (the central part of the trip) sliding down towards a muskier/woodsier accord quite musky and drier (with a sheer sandalwood-presence). Fresh, apothecarian and vaguely dandish/exotic L'Anarchiste strikes for audacity and peculiarity. Points of olfactive connections with Ck Eternity and Givenchy Insensé but L'Anarchiste tells an its own particular orangy/minty/medicinal story. Dry down pushes up a sort orangy/woodsy vibe with dominant vetiver and hints of suede, powdery tonka and musk. Mint waves throughout around. Perfect for "white-linen" south-american seasons
04th March, 2021

Pegasus Exclusif by Parfums de Marly

I think this Exclusif version of Pegasus is what you'd expect. It's darker, slightly dirtier, sweeter, less airy, smoother, and lasts longer. Otherwise, it's mostly the same scent.

I prefer this to the original Pegasus because I found it to be too loud and unrefined. The Exclusif is more wearable and feels more refined and natural to me. This is an all-day scent.
04th March, 2021

Dali Haute Parfumerie : Regard Scintillant de Mille Beautés by Salvador Dali

The notes meld into one sharp melody. No sweetness or powderyness here. It reminds me of something I've owned before. Vaguely animalic over time. Ends in a woody-rose profile. Leans unisex to me. A rose scent one could wear at the workplace without annoying anyone. Gentle.
04th March, 2021

Persian Wood by Avon

Probably a late 60's propellent Cologne Mist.
A scary Hairspray Adelhydic Assault and snonk of Animalic Musk almost has me blown off my feet with it's whack.
The stars fade quick as the Spiced heart enchants with it's charming balance of Cinnamon,Cardamom and Coriander.
The lightly sugared Amber base softens and gradually counterpoints with a dry,yet plump Sandalwood plonk. The snonk sneaks back in for a moment to remind of a little dirtiness.
Floral is rather indistinct which has this bent to Gender neutral.
Very enjoyable Santal.
04th March, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

La Couche du Diable by Serge Lutens

The opening is a rich woody mix, with oud in the foreground. It a fairly refined synthetic oud, when compared with the harsh versions often found in newer releases. The other component is a strong labdanum, that is equally sophisticated it its unobtrusive intensity. Soft glowing citrus hints - tangerine and orange - as well as r discreetly dark rose are in the background, but the rose ins never prominent on me; this is not a typical rose-oud for a change.

Sweeter aromas develop in the drydown, with an amber-soaked cinnamon more evident. The spicy side is enhanced buy a dark saffron. After the opening the whole has an increasingly resinous and musky character, which always remains fairly smooth without any significant harshness.

AN agreeable autumn scent with some complexity in its development, whilst not being overly exciting. 3.25/5.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, seven hours of longevity on my skin..
04th March, 2021