Perfume Reviews

Reviews by AnthonyDG

Advertisement
Total Reviews: 37

Nobile by Gucci

Gucci Nobile is a scent I first became familiar with in the early 2000's when I saw it at discount retailer TJ Maxx. You could easily find 60ml bottles for under $20 at that time. The same 60ml bottle is selling for 20 times that price on eBay in 2019!

Nobile is a familiar soapy green scent that opens with citrus (bergamot and lemon) a medley of herbal notes, and a base of lots of oakmoss and vetiver and a lovely sandalwood/musk/tobacco dry-down. There are some light floral accords - jasmine, rose, carnation - that I can somewhat pick apart in the mid notes. The complexity of this fragrance is stunning, and impressive that no single note jumps out and dominates the composition. Ingredients are high quality. I enjoy the many natural essences of Nobile.

Performance in terms of projection and longevity are above average. The last few times I've worn it I've noticed my bottle might not be quite as potent as I remember older bottles of Nobile. It's been off the market for a fairly long time now.

One style of Nobile has a grey bottle with the sprayer built into the cap and another has a removable grey cap with a silver spray. I much prefer the latter, as it puts out a better stream and is, frankly, less tacky.

There's a bit of an 80's vibe to Nobile (1988), for sure. Some of the comparisons have been quite accurate, though Nobile is its own character. For someone who is looking to approach the 80's powerhouse genre, Nobile might be one of the more approachable, less challenging scents to start with. It's brighter in its theme to many of the 80's beasts, and I don't think Nobile is a fragrance that would easily offend those around you.

Nobile is such a pleasant "fresh" fragrance, though I would prefer to say it evokes "clean", and certainly masculine. I find it to be comforting and casual and something I would wear in the spring.

I don't do Nobile as a SOTD too often, but it's nice to have a bottle in my wardrobe. This is - by far - my favorite Gucci fragrance. It might also be my favorite in its genre of "green" 80's powerhouses because it's soft-spoken and approachable. 5 stars out of 5 for me!
25th March, 2019

Polo by Ralph Lauren

Polo is one of the first fragrances I came to know very early in life. Since everyone around me was wearing it, this scent made quite an impression on my developing mind and has stayed with me my entire life.

I'm referring to a 60ml Cosmair edition which I recently purchased. The notorious Polo opening is indeed quite brash and I could see how someone could find it a bit unpleasant. But so many great fragrances open with notes that seem out of place until the fragrance settles on the skin.

What I find remarkable about Polo is how well all of the notes have been mixed in perfect proportions and harmony to create a vivid experience that few other scents ever produced achieve. I would say Polo is without a doubt one of the greatest scents ever created. A true masterpiece.

Polo is still widely available in 2019, though many prefer the vintages (produced by either Cosmair or Warner) which can be found on eBay. I will look forward to comparing/contrasting vintage Polo but haven't done so yet.

For people who aren't used to vintage powerhouses this could be an unpleasant experience because there are so many ingredients that have been banned or are simply unavailable in modern fragrance.

On how it wears: I don't find that Polo is compatible with warm weather, and I think more than 2 sprays could get you in trouble in a day & age where people are more sensitive to fragrance. The performance is spectacular and will stick around for a very long time on skin and clothing! It could be worn for either casual or formal occasions leaning on formal.

People will recognize this scent because it's still popular and worn by many people. I can safely say that Polo will appeal mostly to the mature male audience and that it might just be the very last scent you'd wear to try and be trendy!
17th March, 2019

The Dreamer by Versace

Versace's "The Dreamer" was released in 1996, a year before Gianni Versace's life came to a tragic end. It was a brand new release at the late Eaton's department store when I got it, and I found it was much more unique than the "Jeans" offerings by Versace.

The Dreamer was definitely not a traditional masculine fragrance and is very similar to the original Dolce & Gabanna Pour Homme. Just like the D&G they have reformulated The Dreamer since it was released and it has lost that beautiful tobacco/vanilla finish that made it so beautiful! The vintage version has a very similar bottle, if not nearly identical, but the newer versions have a more generic box with the Greek key and the vintage has a graphic of a nebula with different text.

As a younger man I received many compliments wearing this scent. I will always keep a bottle in my wardrobe because it is vintage elegant Versace at its finest - the column-shaped bottle, embossed Medusa and gold Greek key spray. After Gianni's passing this fashion house was never the same. His impact on the fashion world lives on today, more than 20 years later. I can't help but wonder if The Dreamer was one of Gianni Versace's final creations - if he had any input into its creation or even had a chance to try it before his untimely death.
10th January, 2019
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Antaeus Sport by Chanel

I absolutely love Antaeus, especially vintage Antaeus (pre-2000's). Antaeus Sport Cologne, to my nose, is almost identical to Antaeus. Released in 1985, 4 years following the release of Antaeus, it seems that this flanker didn't succeed as Chanel had hoped and was discontinued after only a few years. It came in both splash and spray bottles.

I concur with other reviewers that this is not as "pronounced" as the 1981 original, though the notes seem nearly identical. There are no new notes or accords that I can detect - certainly none that jump out at me. The dry-down is where I really pick up the difference. It is very sweet and borderline cloying - a sandalwood/vanilla combo, though I can't say it's vanilla I'm smelling... just sweetness that isn't there in the original. Sometimes it's hard to discern in vintages if natural aging (or degradation) of ingredients is the primary reason behind the change in smell.

Though I still keep a bottle of Antaeus Sport Cologne and have had several bottles of it in my collection over time, I wouldn't go out of my way to get the Sport Cologne or pay much more than I would for vintage Antaeus. A Chanel collector should certainly wish to acquire a bottle for the sake of its rarity, but sometimes I forget that I still have a bottle of this in my wardrobe!

Antaeus Sport won't disappoint, but if you already know and love Antaeus I don't think this flanker will really provide a radically different experience than vintage Antaeus until the dry-down. If one wants to observe such a vast departure from the original, seek out reformulated/modern Antaeus and contrast it to the vintages. If you're a total Antaeus fanatic it is worth trying Sport Cologne. It's almost guaranteed you will enjoy it.
10th January, 2019

Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentrée by Chanel

Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree is often compared with another Polge creation for Tiffany & Co. called "Tiffany for Men". They are indeed very similar fragrances but I find Pour Monsieur Concentree to be much more enjoyable and satisfying to wear.

Pour Monsieur Concentree takes on the theme of Pour Monsieur and adds a lot to it. The Concentree has all of the elements of Pour Monsieur and then some, and it is apparent that Polge wanted to update the original with a modern Chanel twist.

Indeed, this scent is quite perfect for a formal setting. Something about both Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentree evoke a restrained elegance, though Concentree makes itself known when wearing it. I have the vintage Pour Monsieur Concentree and it is much nicer than the current version, which is called Pour Monsieur Eau de Parfum.

If you enjoy Tiffany for Men I think you will enjoy Pour Monsieur Concentree, though I'm not sure fans of the more restrained Pour Monsieur Concentree will enjoy the Tiffany, which tends to wear very sweet and loud.
10th January, 2019

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Chanel

I inherited a 4 oz. splash bottle of this, though my bottle says "Chanel for Men" which is one of the vintage versions produced for the North American market. My grandfather received it as a gift but apparently seldom wore it, as he had his other favorites.

When I first tried Pour Monsieur, it was already heavily reformulated. I found that it was a pleasant citrus fragrance with a light oakmoss and even lighter woodsy finish. I wouldn't bother with this version if you can find a vintage bottle.

The vintage Pour Monsieur, or the Chanel for Men that I have, is truly a delightful scent. It is very understated and inspired by the various traditional eau de cologne. It's an elegant scent and for its time I can imagine it was incredibly special.

When Polge created Pour Monsieur Concentree, it was probably because in 1989 the original Pour Monsieur would have been considered quite tame and lacking power. Nowadays less can be more, as they say, and I think Pour Monsieur has a spot in every gentleman's wardrobe. I actually enjoy Pour Monsieur Concentree because I find it has some depth that Pour Monsieur lacks, but also because the Concentree has quite a lot of differences - maybe more than similarities - to Pour Monsieur.

Some of the vintage Pour Monsieur/Chanel For Men are very heavy in oakmoss, which has been banned for use in perfumery. I always use Pour Monsieur as a reference when discussing oakmoss, as it is incredibly prominent in the vintage compositions - and almost entirely absent in the modern Pour Monsieur....and modern fragrances in general.
10th January, 2019

Casual Friday by Escada

Back when I started out on my own as a young man, I remember when Casual Friday being a new release at my local department store and I purchased a FB only seconds after smelling it sprayed on a test card. At that time my access was limited to designer releases available to my market. Casual Friday ended up in my rotation through my early 20's and reminds me of a simpler time in my life.

CF is not the most sophisticated scent and I found it wears too sweet on my skin, especially in the warmer months. But it's got a softness and warmth that evokes a laid back feel. It's masculine, albeit on the softer side, and a gourmand with a slight boozy accord and a dash of anice. The longevity and projection are both fantastic. Just like a powerhouse scent it's easy to overdo, and sometimes that means anything over 1 spray!

Casual Friday was released around the time aquatics became popular and every new fragrance smelled like Acqua di Gio. It's certainly very different from the world of "fresh/beachy/marine/aqua" themes and its popularity likely suffered due to this trend. There is a "Limited Edition" release of Casual Friday that is 100% the same as Casual Friday just in different bottle. The original ceramic bottle is more unique than the green glass Limited Edition one, but that's just my preference.

For the sake of nostalgia I'm thrilled to have it but rarely consider wearing it. My nostalgia comes bubbling to the surface every time I smell it and I start to long for those happier days, gone by.
10th January, 2019

Armani Eau pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

Ah yes, the original Armani Eau Pour Homme. This was a very popular scent sold in the fragrance department at any major department store. I found myself sampling it in my early teen years and feeling it was much too formal of a scent for me at that time. The sharp citrus/verbena + spice evoked the image of a well-dressed professional in a suit. Maybe even an Armani suit.

The vintage version (Cosmair) is fairly heavy with oakmoss and there is more depth to it than the current/reformulated Armani Eau Pour Homme. The citrus burns off quickly and it performs much like a traditional eau de cologne. The dry-down is pleasant enough but quite subtle. It has an accord that is similar to that found in fine French soaps. A touch of musk or sandalwood? The complexities are entirely absent in the reformulation. I get a ton of citrus and a hint of the original Armani Eau Pour Homme in the modern version. It is much, much weaker than the older formula and much more synthetic, of course. At least the vintage didn't smell so synthetic, generic and hollow. I wouldn't bother with the current formula at all - it is truly that bad and a definite Thumbs Down.

Armani Eau Pour Homme is not an incredibly complex fragrance and that might just be the point behind it. There is very little projection and it is incredibly safe as an office scent. And it truly is like no other Armani fragrance on the market, which might be a good thing depending on the way you look at it! Seek out the vintage (in the black and gold cap) because the Armani Eau Pour Homme they are currently selling in stores is so much less satisfying.
10th January, 2019

Antaeus by Chanel

Antaeus might just be my favorite fragrance of all time, if I were forced to choose. Even though I've worn it hundreds of times, every time I wear it I'll find another reason to enjoy it. I've had numerous bottles in splash, spray, and decants - of all vintages. The oldest bottles are the best.

The only one thing about Antaeus I find challenging is trying to wear it in warmer weather. There are MUCH better fragrances for the summer heat. Another thing to keep in mind is that *less is more* with this one. I tend to use only ONE spray of Antaeus if I know I'll be leaving the house. I can see how some have said that this scent "flaunts itself" a bit. It's very rich, powerful and makes an impression - sometimes a negative impression to those who dislike bold masculine fragrances. For those who are only familiar with the modern mainstream releases, they probably won't easily find much appreciation for Antaeus - and one would expect the same would go for, say, Polo, Drakkar Noir, etc.

Antaeus has been reformulated several times and today's Antaeus has been stripped and "updated" to be less offensive - and much less expensive to produce, without a doubt. Some ingredients in the vintage like sandalwood, oakmoss and castoreum are simply not available or permitted to be used any longer. Fragrance-free zones seem to be increasing and, as such, marketing teams have ordered that scents like Antaeus will either need to be tamed or discontinued. It saddens me to think that we might never see another masterpiece like Antaeus produced again.
10th January, 2019

Acqua di Giò pour Homme by Giorgio Armani

When Acqua di Gio was released in 1996 it truly changed everything. The scent perfectly aligned with the Armani aesthetic of the 90's - crisp, clean, elegant and luxurious - but restrained and refined when compared to the "more is more" scents of the late 80's/early 90's.

No wonder so many fragrances (hundreds, perhaps thousands) have been inspired by AdG. No wonder there are so many knock-offs. I remember as it started to become more popular, AdG would make the powerhouse scents seem out of style and even obnoxious. This is why I think there is so much animosity towards Acqua di Gio. Nobody likes sharing their glory with the new kid in town or having their classics overshadowed. Some of my peers at the time refused to wear AdG because it was "feminine", compared to many other men's fragrances at that time. And once AdG and its clones were so popular it became an easy target for those who wanted to step away and stand out, or weren't buying into the trend. Fair enough.

Because I wore it for nearly a decade and took it out of my rotation (even selling off my bottles), I never thought I would rekindle any sort of love for AdG. I have so many nostalgic connections to AdG that I can't be without it - a 50ml bottle will do.

And I decided to get the oldest bottle I could find (a 2001 Cosmair era). It certainly is different from the 2019 AdG in that the original has a very beautiful, lingering base that is completely absent in the newer versions. In fact the original release is even more restrained than the 2019 juice, which has a good dose of synthetics that I can't get past on my skin. The opening is louder, the mid-notes are shrill, and the base is salty and brash.

From start to finish AdG is a masterpiece, and it's taken me 23 years to come to that opinion. At the same time I almost certainly will reach for *anything* else in my wardrobe!

A victim of its own popularity, to borrow one reviewer's grammar, you certainly won't be the only one in town wearing AdG. But for those of us who recall the time and place, I think we should celebrate just how much of an impact this scent made. Shortly after AdG was released I graduated high school, went to university and started off on my own. It was an amazing time in my life and if I ever need to remind myself of that era, a spritz or two of AdG lets me travel back in time and recall those wonderful years.
10th January, 2019

Portrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

5/5 - I haven't taken the time to review a fragrance in quite a long time, but I felt I needed to add one for PoaL. This is probably the finest in the Malle lineup, rivaling Vetiver Extraordinaire, another D. Ropion composition.

What makes it so brilliant is that the longevity is incredible and the sillage is just perfect. It is rose, spice, woods and oud in perfect harmony - never too synthetic or brash, just perfect. A little goes a VERY long way. I'm rather shocked that someone could find the longevity lacking, as 30 hours and a thorough shower didn't rid me of its sublime dry-down.

This, along with Creed's vintage formulation of Fleur de The Rose Bulgare, are the finest, most perfect rose fragrances ever (sorry Nahema, Rose 31, DC 1913, etc. etc.!)
22nd June, 2012
01st December, 2009 (last edited: 13th December, 2013)

Private Collection - Cuir d'Iris by Parfumerie Generale

I always feel at a bit of a loss when I'm writing a review that follows such creative, wonderful input from others who have a vernacular and understanding that I'm still striving to achieve. What I hope is to do this fragrance justice with this review.

PG Cuir d'Iris is the winner of the PG line from what I've tried thus far (most of them). Some had said it could be difficult to warm up to the top notes but to hang in for the dry-down. What I get in the top notes is a brisk (but not sharp) fine, fine leather - probably one of the most *accurate and comfortable* renditions of leather I've tried. This is what expensive leather smells like, most definitely. Cuir d'Iris is truly a masterpiece - it achieves such a divine, realistic leather with a perfect blend of other notes without, for a second, smelling cheap, synthetic or contrived.

Even after having a bottle for a couple of months and a sample for a month before that I'm still finding gorgeous notes in Cuir d'Iris after subsequent wearings. Could this be one of the best applications of iris in a fragrance to date? Possibly. I don't find there is much powder to it - it is smoky and it does have a gorgeous amber in the dry-down. Longevity is spectacular while sillage is comfortable and just about right.

This is an absolutely elegant, refined and classy leather fragrance that almost defies categorization as a "leather fragrance" when comparing with others out there. I'm not sure I would call this one a dark leather, like vintage Antaeus. There is no dark, earthy vetiver to anchor it and give it darkness. Instead it is a warm, sensuous amber and yes, gourmand notes. I feel ambitious and confident wearing Cuir d'Iris, and I seriously doubt I'll ever grow tired of it.
06th October, 2009
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Bel Ami by Hermès

This review is for the vintage Bel Ami in the 'cocktail shaker' bottle.

If I could give it 6 stars I would, and it's really my pleasure to be writing what I can as a testament to this beautiful fragrance. Bel Ami is the epitome of elegance, highlighting 3 of my favorite accords (leather, sandalwood and vetiver).

When I first got a sample from a good friend of mine I fell in love almost instantly. I was able to detect those 3 beautiful notes almost right away, though this isn't to say Bel Ami isn't well-blended. There was a major surprise for me in that with its incredible longevity it morphed into this gorgeous vetiver akin to MPG Route de Vetiver (vintage) on my skin - though softer, warmer.

Longevity is superb - sillage is just about perfect with a few sprays to key areas. It has been said that Bel Ami doesn't take many risks... it doesn't need to. I think it works best for formal/semi-formal but I've worn it with a t-shirt and jeans and loved it just the same. This will be a "holy grail" fragrance for many people. I put it right next to L'Instant PH, Creed BdP and Vetiver Extraordinaire for "versatile elegance with tolerable opulence". 5/5
06th October, 2009

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

I find this is actually wonderful in the summer. Maybe not for a day at the beach, but the citrus opening is delightful. Longevity isn't fantastic, but the dry-down certainly is. I wrote my review for the Extreme version - of which I was able to appreciate the dry-down a bit more.

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme is one of the easiest fragrances. A "go to" for a day at the office, a job interview, etc. The sillage certainly isn't overpowering and I think it's unquestionably masculine and maintains its status as a fantastic gourmand without being synthetic/cloying or too "edible". I'll also say that the bottles are substantial, heavy glass with a great design. A wardrobe staple!!
25th July, 2009

Tiffany for Men by Tiffany

I thought this was discontinued, but I was happily mistaken and tracked down a bottle. At $1 per ml it's probably one of the better values I've ever come across in terms of fragrances. Tiffany for Men could easily be sold for twice the price - maybe three times the price.

As it opens you notice bergamot, a bit of lavender and this really wonderful cedar. I don't get the florals as much in lieu of spice, but the dry-down is one of the nicest sandalwood + vanilla/amber ever.

Yes, it is probably best suited for formal, evening wear and not an "everyday" fragrance only because it's very special. It would also appeal more to a mature audience due to its classic tone. One thing it isn't, however, is dated.

I'll reiterate that Jacques Polge is a genius and that I hope this one is never reformulated or discontinued. Two thumbs way up for Tiffany for Men.
25th July, 2009

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême / Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

L'Instant PH Extreme? It's a work of art and one of the easiest fragrances to wear. I believe it to be utterly masculine and fairly conservative, though that shouldn't be a barrier for folks who don't like those genres.

You'll find many people reviewing the Extreme version (EDP) in the L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme (EDT). The sillage is about the same on both, though the longevity of the Extreme is spectacular. I also agree that there is less focus on citrus in the Extreme and more on the warm, woody notes - cocoa, sandalwood, etc.

I own both the original and the Extreme, as I find the differences substantial enough to justify both. It wasn't too difficult for me to find it. My only one small gripe is that the sillage on both L'Instant PH (EDT) and L'Instant PH Extreme (EDP) isn't breathtaking. But that is easily forgiven. Spectacular.

Edit: I did not see there were 2 others who had submitted reviews before me. My apologies to these members!
15th July, 2009 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

Many years ago I remember a girl I know wearing a vanilla fragrance. It wasn't expensive, but I remember thinking to myself - THIS smells really good. Maybe it was "Vanilla Fields"? A drug store fragrance I believe.

Then Versace's "The Dreamer" came out, and I remember thinking it was absolutely stunning. I think it made me comfortable wearing fragrances with vanilla notes.

SDV is a gorgeous creation that I cherish, though in small amounts. As lavish as it might sound - I also think it would be perfect for layering with another Guerlain fragrances to "amp up" the vanilla and make for a spectacular dry-down. I'm thinking L'Instant + SDV, but haven't tried that yet. It's great on its own.

As for the fragrance itself - I don't get anything sour from it at all. In fact, I find it's quite sweet.. definitely boozy, and somehow dry at the same time. I can't smell floral in it and I've found that it's fairly linear in nature. This is a good thing. It's potent, as an EDP, and is probably one of the more truly unisex fragrances of all time. The bottle and box/presentation are beautiful - like a fine cognac.
15th July, 2009
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 24th January, 2011)
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 24th January, 2011)

Rose 31 by Le Labo

Rose 31 is my first Le Labo fragrance, recommended to me by a friend who had to twist my arm a bit to give it a shot. I'm glad I did!

This is the first rose fragrance I really took seriously, having been under the assumption that all rose fragrances were feminine and uncomfortable for a guy to wear. The image I had was an old lady splashing rosewater or smearing rose moisturizer all over her skin. Not exactly an image I wanted to evoke or portray.

But Rose 31, like many have said, isn't really about the rose so much. Yes, it's there - but it's blended enough to become palatable for those who have a rose phobia. The sillage is great in the first two hours, or so. Longevity is 6 hours on me which is just about right.

The dry-down is the nicest part of Rose 31. It's classy, elegant and refined. Everybody should try this - especially men, as there are elements of incense and woods that show up during the development that are unquestionably masculine.

Don't let rose phobia keep you away. Rose 31 will be a staple in my wardrobe, perhaps not as my favorite rose as I discover some other beauties, but I won't deny its greatness.
15th June, 2009 (last edited: 29th July, 2009)

Acqua di Sale by Profumum

I promised myself before rating anything with a Thumb's Down, I'd give some solid reasons for doing so. Especially Profumum, which is a great house.

With Acqua di Sale I don't even know where to start. Something right from the start was totally repulsive, and I don't care what it was. I don't get the marine, the aquatic, anything... just a headache and a bit of nausea.

Those who enjoy it - kudos. I'm not sure what exactly there is to enjoy.
15th June, 2009

Piper Nigrum by Lorenzo Villoresi

When I sampled this I had to ask myself.. why is it I like this one so much? At the time it was one of the oddest fragrances I'd ever worn, but I was really drawn in by the combination of the spice, pepper and mint.

This is part of Villoresi's "Fantasy Fragrance" line, which I think helped me a lot with falling for it. It's a dreamy fragrance that I can't imagine wearing often (and I don't). When I do I really enjoy it, and have received many compliments.

You can't go wrong with Lorenzo Villoresi, in that the quality is certainly there and the price is reasonable. I wouldn't recommend Piper Nigrum for a fragrance newbie or someone who doesn't have an open mind. The odd time I've sprayed it and then thought.. ah, that's not what I wanted today. I wish I could say I've fully figured this one out. It's been over a year now since my full bottle purchase and I'm still finding aspects of it I love more and more. A gem.
15th June, 2009

Vétiver Extraordinaire by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Though I no longer have it in my wardrobe, I still consider VE to be one of the finest niche fragrances ever created. I will probably see to it that I obtain another bottle some day.

It took me a while to really appreciate VE after having been familiar with a much less "potent", citrus-based vetiver fragrance. There is a bit of a rubbery note that quickly disappears.. leaving earthy, raw vetiver and woods. I wasn't aware of MPG Route de Vetiver before VE - only Guerlain Vetiver, Creed's OV and Vetiver '48, Givenchy Vetyver, etc.

I was lucky enough to purchase my big bottle of VE during the season it fits with best - autumn. The rain, mist, fog and walks through the forest seemed so appropriate whilst wearing VE. VE is strikingly melancholy yet uplifting at the same time. Not fresh in the way Aqua di Gio is fresh, not at all.. I shouldn't even bring AdG up. True, pure, green, earthy freshness that you're probably familiar with if you've spent lots of time outdoors walking through forests and taking in the smells of nature.

The longevity is great, sillage was OK on my skin. Absolutely I would recommend it, and I feel it's worth every penny and then some. Probably in my Top 5 fragrances of all time. Probably my favorite vetiver of all time, easily blowing most of the others away.
15th June, 2009

Fumidus by Profumum

Fumidus was a scrubber for me. As much as I love the raw vetiver in MPG RdV and Frederic Malle's VE, the smoke in this fragrance just really blows me away. It smells a bit like a stale, half-smoked cigar drenched in scotch.. over top of a great, raw vetiver. It's just a bit too dirty - I wish there was something in here to temper it a bit.

I like robust, woodsy, dark, incense fragrances..even smokey fragrances (Malle's Bois d'Orage). I love vetiver, and the vetiver in Fumidus is of outstanding quality, but I hate the other notes that accompany it. Now if all of this intrigues you, I can tell you that you will certainly get a long-lasting fragrance with plenty of sillage and longevity from Fumidus.

Folks often note that Profumum uses extremely high quality ingredients. Though I'm not able to appreciate Fumidus, I still find it remarkable that the same house that produced it also created "Vanitas", "Dulcis in Fundo" and "Acqua Viva". Such diversity and beauty.
11th June, 2009

Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford

Well the longevity and sillage were absolutely unbelievable on me. Linear, yes.. but one tiny spray from a small atomizer and I was good to go for 16+ hours. This is so rare for me - in fact I'd say that 99% of fragrances don't last anything close to as long as TV on my skin.

You have to be a vanilla fan (tonka bean) to enjoy this - no doubt about it. There was mention of the vanilla scented candles that I could relate to a bit, though the vanilla in TV is of higher quality and doesn't smell nasty, though it does smell synthetic.

Price isn't absurd when you consider one.. TWO small sprays at most.. will last you as long as TV does. Probably my favorite from the Tom Ford Private Blend. I can see it really shining in colder weather. In warmer weather this fragrance was a total turn-off. Somebody I knew who sampled it described it as "dirty vanilla". After the last time I wore it I'm forced to agree. This is one I did a total 180 on and won't be returning to.
27th May, 2009 (last edited: 10th March, 2010)

Uomo by Lorenzo Villoresi

I believe one reviewer used the word "sparkling" for this fragrance. Absolutely bang on. I think of it as a complex, much superior Acqua di Parma Colonia. This says a lot seeing how AdP is a classic. LV Uomo is a classic as well, through and through. In my wardrobe it has replaced AdP and I won't look back, personally. Very Italian insofar as the citrus/spice combo with the subdued herbal element.

The first sprays give way to herbal/citrus - verbena/lemon? Very, very nice. Then I detect the vetiver and woods, which really hold the fragrance together. Vetiver is the key player and to have the other beautiful ingredients blended with it so nicely gives Uomo complexity and class. Sandalwood, is that you? Gorgeous.

When I was sampling this fragrance at first the spice turned me off a bit. I guess it was before I understood the Villoresi "trademark" spice notes you find in most of his fragrances. I could see how someone might dismiss this fragrance because of the spicy aspect.

I purchased Uomo after purchasing LV Vetiver and can honestly say that both of these really deliver. Longevity on Uomo isn't fantastic on my skin, whereas Vetiver is above average in terms of lasting power. This isn't a concern for me. Once you wear Uomo you'll understand what I mean - it's perfectly balanced and very nicely put together. I find it's glorious in the summer.

My search for the perfect citrus fragrance continues, though I think I use Uomo as a benchmark as I continue sampling. It's something I will replace when I run out. I can also say that fans of this fragrance who use shower gel MUST try the shower gel. It's the highest quality shower gel I've ever seen - a thick, luxurious treat.
25th April, 2009

Silver Mountain Water by Creed

SMW is a great fragrance.. though it falls under the category of fragrances that I admire but just can't wear. The lovely floral element to it really separates it from Green Irish Tweed or Himalaya, let's say.

Unfortunately, for me, the floral side of it was too dominant and I felt uncomfortable at times wearing it. Perhaps I was trying too hard, as I recall when SMW came out I tried it at Neiman Marcus and wasn't impressed.

This is worn more by men than women it seems, though I'm not quite sure why that is. It is completely unisex with something I think could be very appealing to women. The "ink note" is neat to me.. as is the "petrol" opening (found in MI as well). The dry down is prominent ambergris and violet to my nose.

Longevity and silage were merely average on my skin, sad to say it. This was not the case with a different batch I sampled at one point. I have to give it credit for its development - it starts strong, develops beautifully, but ends up fairly mediocre on me.. and then it's gone.

I think it's a beautiful creation and one that I might come back to at some point. At this point I'm a bit more taken by other Creed offerings.
25th April, 2009

Vetiver by Lorenzo Villoresi

This is an edit of my original review, which was also Thumbs Up.

I wear Villoresi's "Vetiver" more often than any other vetiver fragrance in my wardrobe. I discovered it on my first trip to New York City at Bergdorf Goodman, in the Menswear (formal) area. Looking back on it now it seems a bit odd that this niche line was sold there, alongside *much* more popular offerings like Creed. But it makes sense to me that this scent was being offered for sale in one of the most luxurious department stores in the world!

The opening is vetiver and bourbon - very dry and smokey. The dry-down highlights the many high quality essences that Villoresi uses. There are notes of lavender, sandalwood and sage as it dries down. There are quite a few similarities to Villoresi's Uomo, another favorite of mine.

Vetiver stays close to the skin and the smokey, raw aspects of it fade rapidly. The Villoresi complexity shines through and one can tell there are lots of natural ingredients being used. It really is quite a dark, almost damp scent - but one that I've even layered with Uomo to give it a sparkling eau de cologne feel and temper the smoke a bit.

I find layering fragrances is very tricky, unless they are comprised of mostly natural essences that are (of course) compatible. Hopefully Villoresi continues to use such high quality naturals, as I will always have a place in my wardrobe for these incredible compositions.
23rd April, 2009 (last edited: 10th January, 2019)

Fougères Marines by Montale

A little too fruity and not aquatic enough for me.. certainly nothing like Erolfa.. and NOTHING like Millesime Imperial or GIT. Bvlgari Aqva is another worth mentioning when it comes to marine/aquatics.

I didn't enjoy wearing it - it didn't develop on my skin and I had the feeling it was a bit too feminine for my tastes. Fruit punch maybe?

A nice fragrance, just not my bag.
23rd April, 2009