LE GOLLIWOGG (Vigny, 1918/1924)
Top notes Bergamot, Clove
Heart notes: Muguet, Ylang, Rose, Jasmine, Violet
Base notes: Vetiver, Vanilla, Civet, Styrax, Tonka, Sandalwood, Oak Moss, Musk, Patchouli, Ambergris
The Golliwogg is currently suffering from an undeserved rap, due to the modern repugnance with anything remotely connected to racism. It began life in the late 19th century as a doll, which appeared in a number of children’s books by Florence Upton. The doll is represented by black skin, eyes rimmed in white, with red lips and frizzy black hair (an Afro, if you will).
Golliwoggs were loved by children of all races, along with the ubiquitous teddy bear, up until the 1970s and were collected in the Caribbean.
Golliwogg’s Cake Walk is the final piece in Debussy’s Children’s Corner Suite. They appeared as toy dolls and as motifs for Robertson’s jams.
In 1924 Vigny created a scent, Le Golliwogg, which appeared in a round clear bottle with a Golliwogg head as the stopper. Representations of this bottle are now forbidden on the internet, with Ebay and Etsy banning them, either with or without contents. At least Vigny provided an alternate bottle shape, so that the scent at least can be offered for sale. I am surprised to see the original bottle represented on the Basenotes page.
I am experiencing an unopened bottle of pure parfum. The half ounce has evaporated to less than 1/8 ounce, so it is very concentrated. As you can see from the note tree, it is quite base heavy with ten building blocks.
This is a floral chypre that is warm, dark, and rich, redolent of vanilla, musk and ambergris, deepened by the vetiver, civet and styrax. There is an impression in this mix of the scent of a rich, deep, flavored, brewed coffee, as if one was experiencing the aroma from a distance. Remember those Rolo candies with caramel and coffee flavors wrapped in chocolate? The florals appear late in the opening, managing to claw their way to the top of the base notes. One can finally get whiffs of the rose, jasmine and violet as time goes on. That hidden clove and muguet provide a prominent edge, a slight tingle that gives it an olfactory lift.
It is certainly unisex by today’s standards and wearable throughout the day and evening, though perhaps more suited to an evening out. It is quiet, subtle, stays close to the body with little projection. It smells absolutely delicious, deepening the longer you wear it and always changing ever so slightly as hidden depths rise to the surface.
Ever so rare, but thankfully still available from on-line sellers. One to seek out for sure!