Perfume Reviews

Reviews by rbaker

Total Reviews: 3125
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Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Vinyle by Yves Saint Laurent

A well-balanced but firm opening blast of slightly sweet pink pepper greets me boldly, given a fresh feeling by an addition of a bergamot impression.

The drydown develops the notion of a sweetish spiciness further by adding an immortelle impression, with a herbal spiciness added courtesy of a somewhat unusual myrrh; hints of an anise are evident in the background. The anise is quite weak on me and more a perfunctory vestige than a substantive contribution to the development of this creation.

The a resinous licorice note is added, which is stronger again, complimented by a sweet vanilla that gradually merges with the licorice-resin further into the base.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and six hours of longevity on mt skin.

A wintry scent with one or two somewhat unusual moments, but mostly it presents with a mainstream approach that veers a lot into the generic at some stages. I am not sure where the vinyl outfit comes in here. Overall 2.75/5.
25th July, 2021
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Vert Bohème by Tom Ford

The opening blast is dominated by a galbanum, which is a touch bitter but not very astringent, in combination is an orangey mandarin impression. The latter is not very fresh, bit quite bright nonetheless. A bit later a violet leaf adds a green undertone, and this leaf, together with the galbanum, are the main 'vert' elements in the composition.

Some florals arrive, with a magnolia especially noteworthy, with and undertone of whiffs of lilies and gustavias.

Touches of honeysuckle add a bit of sweetness, but it is not a particularly impressive rendering of a honeysuckle fragrance - this is not Creed's Chevrefeuille after all, but with time it develops a bit more, albeit in a very synthetic manner.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable spring creation, that is not bad, but eventually too gennric to convince. 2.75/5
24th July, 2021
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Vetyverio Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

The opening with mandarin and grapefruit is quite lovely, and more on the gently crisp side and not really sweet. A restrained but typical nutmeg impression adds additional depth to the citrus prelude.

In the drydown the vetiver arises and claims the leading role over time. It is a green and slightly herbal vetiver that lacks any strong earthy component on me. Floral sidelines appear, with a rose and a geranium notes combining with some restrained ylang-ylang; all these struggle to make themselves heard under the vetiver wave. There are faint herbal undertones of carrot seeds and whiffs of basil later on in the development.

The base adds some white musks, with a touch of cedar also present, but the vetiver still lingers on quite persistently as a co-dominant partner to the wood.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection,and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

The continuous strong presence of the vetiver does justice to the name of this spring scent,. Whilst initially the Eau de Toilette is a bit bore nuanced in its facets, this EdP grows to be more vivid on the vetiver and performs much better on me . 3.5/5
23rd July, 2021
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Noble Leather by Yves Saint Laurent

there is indeed a leather note in the opening blast, quite dark and somewhat smoky leather, but without the gasoline I get, for instance, in Knize Ten.

Very soon a smooth saffron is added, which takes over as the most prominent component. At this stage the leather has lost its edge, and softened considerably; it morphed into a suede-like impression that she all the smokiness of the earlier moments.

Later on a sweeter vanilla develops and grows in strength and intensity; at times I get a light undertone of caramel candies. A while later a character of prunes and blackberries is noticeable too. The leather is now revealing its core as a patchouli-based note; it continues to soften and weaken towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This autumnal scent is an interesting leather-creation, which is actually more of a saffron-vanilla composition after the first third or so, with the leather gradually being engulfed by these subsequent notes. The richer and sweeter phases trigger reminiscences of Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather. The second half is rather generic and overly synthetic though, which drags the whole rating down somewhat. Overall 2.75.5
22nd July, 2021
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Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Trench by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening blast with its mandarin-bergamot start has a restrainedly bright feeling to it, which is continued a bit later on by a slightly darker neroli impression, with an underlying fig impression instilling a bit of sweetness at this stage.

Later in the drydown a lovely iris takes the centre stage, with a woody undertone that is enhanced by hits of cedar appearing now and then.

The base has a musky tendency, a darker musky impression that is quite discreet and never expressing pungent or harsh chracteristics. Ambery/ambrette features are added in towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable scent for spring and autumn days, the trench coat season on rainy days. Some notes are a bit too generic, and on he whole it not an especially creative composition, but overall is is quite nice - but nothing special and not performing particularly well. 2.75/5

21st July, 2021
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Coffee Break : Golden Dallah by Xerjoff

The opening blast emits aromas of soft and slightly sweet spices, that is quite unusual in a pleasant way.

Soon the coffee arrives, served in the receptacle implied by the name. It hovers between being a Cafe-au-lait and a Caffe Mocha. he a lovely rose develops, which is blossom-base but, unfortunate, struggles to compete with the caffeinated aromas overshadowing it at times. In the background, the spices are enhanced by a restrained incense composed, which haw now significant medicinal component on me. An ambery oud is also present now, but is is very discreet on me; this oud is in the background mostly. In spite of both notes present her, this is a far cry from those intrusive and kick-in-your-face oud-rose creations that pullulate the department store shelves at times.

The base adds a nutty vanilla aroma, which , again quite pallid on me - this is unusual for the average vanilla note I experienced in the past.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

As a coffee-based spring scent it works very well, although the second half is becoming weaker in intensity with time.
The quality of the ingredients is high, and they are applies with some originality in the mix, which is blended very skillfully. The vividness and intensity, unfortunately, is rather disappointing in the second half of the development. 3.5/5
20th July, 2021
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17/17 Damarose by Xerjoff

The opening blast is fruity/floral, with freesia and redcurrant notes dominating, which, interestingly, are not really sweet, in spite of the notes it is constituted with. brighter touches by rays lemon and bergamot make is a positive and uplifting set to top notes.

The rose arises a short while after the start, is mainly a rose bloom with a few green leafy touches. A nice Sambac jasmine - green mainly - and an elegant ylang-ylang support the rose well; the latter is less fat and less creamy that often found with this floral note otherwise.

The base is a woodsy patchouli impression, which is a lightweight and fairly bright patchouli on me. The woods are expressing a bit of mahogany at times, but overall in is not a very specific wood note. Towards then end I am getting an ambery touch of white musks also; these are,however, a bit pallid on me.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and six hours o longevity on my skin.

The name of this spring scent it quite apt, as the rose is in the foreground indeed for quite some time, and the auhority of the ingredients and of a very good quality. The base is weaker and less convincing, and less impressive as far as its constituents' vividness and intensity is concerned. Overall 3.5/5
18th July, 2021
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Black Opium Nuit Blanche by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening combines a sweetish opening of orange blossoms with a slightly indolic white pepper; both the develop a nigh marzipan-like undertone. Not much of the rice promised in the scent pyramid is forthcoming though, unless one thinks of whiffs of vanilla rice pudding.

in the drydown a note of cafe-au-lait develops, which is pleasant but neither very vivid nor was it lasting particularly long on me.

Soon a vanilla impression moves into the foreground. it is smooth, a bit creamy, sweet and medium-bodied in volume. the ending adds a mix on nonspecific woodsiness as we all some sweet white musks. The wood assumes the guise of a synthetic sandalwood off and on, but this cannot detract from its rather pallid overall nature.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for cooler spring days starts pleasantly with the floral/sweet/coffee combination working quite we. Alas with time the generic and blander elements take over, and as a whole it does not move much beyond a certain mediocrity. 2.75/5
16th July, 2021
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L'Homme Parfum Intense by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening with its orange flower on a restrainedly sweet-spicy background gets the ball rolling; the spicy side is die to a nice davana impression.

After the first hour or so, a suede impression arises that soon morphs into a sweet-ish and slightly woodsy mix. The wood is rather nonspecific, with a cedar component rearing its head only transiently at times.

The the whole changes into an smooth ambroxan dominated medley, a change that occurs quite rapidly on ,me. The laboratory-chemical nature of this components is rather evident ins an egregious manner. At times it has a boozy nigh caramel-like character on me.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

The opening stage of this autumnal scent is very nice, interesting, not un-original, and executed well. The later phases are too overtly chemical-synthetic and generic - as it occurs sometimes in purely synthetic exercises. 2.75/5

15th July, 2021
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Magnificent Blossom by Yves Saint Laurent

The triad that constitutes the opening moments is a floral basket of merit: A slightly green and quite intense jasmine sambac combines with a lovely rendering of orange blossom to a friendly and bright start of this olfactory sojourn. Soon a richer but still elegant ylang-ylang leaves its mark; it is a bit creamy but less rich or heavy that the ylang in many other products.

Fresher citrus atmospheres permeate to heart notes, mainly a ripe orange, mandarin and a good dose of bergamot. An importation of a slight contrast is attempted by a very restrained saffron influx, but the latter is rather weak and nigh perfunctory on me.

The base is dominated by an usually gentle and bright patchouli, that lacks and sharpness or edge on me. A woody and sweetish amyris wood appears closer to the end and fizzles out gradually.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and nine hours of longevity on my skin.

The beginning of this floral feast for warm spring or cooler summer days is a sheer delight, with vivid and high-quality ingredients. The later stages are less impressive, less vivid and a bit more generic, but never overly petrochemical. Overall 3/5
14th July, 2021
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Soleil Neige by Tom Ford

The opening is a standard bergamot, which is giving an unusual twist by an impression of carrot seeds that is faints but otherwise executed quite well.

The drydown is dominated by white floral aromas, with a bright orange blossom joining with a standard karmaflor; a slightly green jasmine is developing too at that stage. The jasmine lingers on for quite a long time, with residual touches still evident much later in the base. Further down the track a restrained (Turkish per the company's description) rose is evident, mainly a rose blossom, but it remains rather nonspecific on me for a while, before gaining in character a bit.

The base starts with a transient labdanum when development gets closer to the base notes; then the rest is a vanilla, with touches of a slight resinous benzoin mixed in. Closer to the end some lashings of white musks enforce the sweetness of the vanilla impression.

I got moderate sillage very good projection, and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for transitional seasons, best suitable for spring and autumn, has some original features initially, but the later development had rather generic phases. One nice this in the base is that the musks are not suffocating the rest of the mix at the end. The performance is very good.

Whilst the start contains a touch of soleil, I am not sure where the neige might hide - molten away? Overall 2.75/5
13th July, 2021
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La Nuit de L'Homme Le Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Faithful to the scent pyramid, a synthetic anise is the dominating part of the opening blast, brightened up by a bergamot that is balanced against a dash of white pepper.

The emergence of a floral components starts in the drydown, with w medium-bodied lavender impression kicking it off. A neroli impression arises and stays quite dominant well into the the later stages, whilst a nonspecific fruitiness tilts the whole mix into the sweet realm. This sweetness is enforced by an ozonic hairspray note, which a galbanum, which transiently appears, cannot compete with in intensity and durability.

The base continues the sweet them, with a soft and light-filled patchouli teaming up with a vanilla note to ensure this remains a sweet affair.

I get moderate sillage,very good projection, and ten hour of longevity on my skin.

A scent for spring days that has some food moments, but is neither very original, nor convincing in the depiction of its components, but the performance is good. Distinctly petrochemial at times. 2.75/5
12th July, 2021
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Vert de Fleur by Tom Ford

The opening is an interesting blend of a fresh floral bouquet with a herbal undertone. Iris and a stronger hyacinth start it off, with a greener jasmine following in tow very soon. After a while a smiling orange blossom and a somewhat nonspecific rose buttress the floral frontline. The fresher side is created due to a brighter neroli with a uplifting bergamot, and later re-enforced by a noon-woody vetiver impression. A hint of herbs - basil with whiffs of carrot leaves - briefly appears in the background.

The other group of ingredients is a herbal-spicy cluster. Fairly much from the start one sees the gradual development of a galbanum note with its warm feeling; initially in the background but gradually it is gaining prominence. A soft and slightly leather-influenced patchouli with a weakly mossy undertone join in towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and a good eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This green-aromatic floral scent with a gent;y spicy leaning works well for spring days. It has some original features, and especially the first half is crafted very well. Some notes as rather pallid though, whilst other are more convincing. Overall 3.25/5
11th July, 2021
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Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Velours by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is a floral-spicy combination. An iris note, which is on the darker side of the olfactory spectrum, joins a restrained tea not that is reminding me of a weakly brewed second-flush Darjeeling.

The drydown adds a brighter jasmine, which has a green feeling to it, which a softly spicy component that is introduced with a smooth olibanum impression. Soon a sweet vanilla arises that, with time, takes over the lead to become the dominant ingredient for good.

In the base an light amber note is added, as are some sweet white musk and give the vanilla some added depth.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This vanilla-spice-floral scent is warm, comforting and good for winter days. It starts of quite nicely with good renderings of the ingredients, which are never too thickly or cloying, but after while it is a bit predictable and generic. Overall 2.75/5

10th July, 2021
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Saharienne by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is a citrus combination, with lemons, bergamot, mandarins, and whiffs of ripe oranges. This combination is not as bright and refreshing as one might expect from its ingredients, but nonetheless it has an optimistic and positive feeling to it.

After this entry, white florals develop gradually. touches of orange blossoms and leaves, with whiffs of magnolia, are most noticeable.

towards the end gently herbal-spicy components develop, with a restrained and light galbanum, and a touch of gingery zest makes a brief appearance, underlined by a dash of a soft white pepper.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity; the last couple of hours are very close to my skin.

A pleasant scent for cooler summer days in the forest half, the second half is marred by the generic character of its ingredients. 2.75/5
09th July, 2021
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Velvet Orchid by Tom Ford

The opening is a fruity affair, with citrus in the form of bergamot and mandarins starting the opening gambit in the olfactory match. A slightly boozy not of a rum succan absolute that developed a honeyed character after a while rounds of the top notes; altogether quite an original combination, especially when touches of a dark green jasmine appear in the background..

The drydown witnesses the advance of the floral front:
yes, the orchid rules, with a Catleva aroma being dominant at this stage. A hyacinth is quite dominant too, ad a nonspecific rose impression is vying for one's attention too.

The base is a nonspecific woodsy accord, with touches of sandalwood and whiffs of a sweeter whitewood transiently making an appearance. Touches of gentle spices due to a myrrh and a weak balsam aroma, mixed with a faint and nigh perfunctory soft leather, delineate this stage further. The sweetness of a restrained tonka develops towards the end, and merges with the wood eventually.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and seven ours of longevity on my skin.

The forte of this scent for spring evenings is the opening, which displays some creativity that is less evident in the heart notes though; the latter are a bit more of an average quality, although many of them never fully develop in and interesting way. The base is rather generic at times. Overall - just - a positive score of 3/5.
08th July, 2021
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Splendid Wood by Yves Saint Laurent

The incense opening is rich, smooth, and moderately dark in expression, very pleasant, and with touches of a ceremonious undertone at times. A cardamom that soon is added in is a brighter note, and both together merge to an interesting spice mix. No that mu wood in the top notes.

A jasmine (the Sambac variety) arrives a bit later; it has more of the leaf' aroma than that the flower on me.

After the drydown continues further the woods arrive, with a nagarmotha giving a green feeling to the mix at the beginning of the base. Hints of cedar come and go, but the oud that is mentioned in the scent pyramid, is missing in action on me; instead I get a nonspecific woodsiness in the background. The last stage is a mix of wood, a soft patchouli, and a nigh tonka-like sweetness.

I get moderate silage, adequate projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant autumnal scent that has has merit in the creation of a nice and gentle incense mix, which is suitable as an office scent an for the evening. The top notes are the best part of this olfactory creation, but second half is a bit too generic at times. The opening blast is often designed as the most attractive part of a fragrance, such as to lure people into impulse purchases after sampling the product in the aisle of the department store. 2.75.5

07th July, 2021
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L'Homme Ultime by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening blast with its grapefruit that is not sour and quite fresh, is also notable for a pleasant ginger accord that moves into the foreground swiftly. Towards the heart notes a restrained cardamom is added in, which mixed in very nicely. A bright start of this olfactory journey.

The drydown is more herbal, mainly sage with whiffs of basil, on the background of a rose that is on the nonspecific side and quite weak on me. The other floral of note is a geranium, which is not much stronger than the rose.

The base is a woodsy impression, fairly nondescript with occasional hints of cedar, and a faint vetiver towards the end.

In get moderate sillage, adequate projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

And agreeable start that is quite run-of-the-mill in character, with the later stages being very generic and. Would YSL himself would have liked it? 2.75/5
06th July, 2021
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Y Le Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is gasping my attention with a floral not - geranium absolute mainly, with whiffs of hyacinth transiently present too. a bit later a fruity medley is developing, a fresh grapefruit - not sour - with a touch of fresh apples - Pink Ladies or similar; an slightly aldehydic background adds a bit of additional brightness. Then a spattering of ginger adds a bit of zest.

The drydown adds a dark-green lavender note, which is accompanied by a bit of a herbal sage element in the background.

The base note is heralded by a surprisingly bright and soft patchouli, which has a slight element of a sweetish spiciness attached to it. Some vanilla develops nearer to the end in the backdrop of a cedar wood impression, although the latter is soon changed into a nonspecific woodsiness that liners on until the end. the vanilla, patchouli, and the wood merge into a sweet-aromatic blend that is never too intrusive or too cloying.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and ten hours of longevity on my skin.

A florall-dominated scent for spring days or evenings that As a few convincing core notes, but otherwise veers into the generic side a bit too much, especially in the second half. It has a rich set of top notes, which are combining to some moments of olfactory originality at times. The performance is very good, which tilts it into the realm of a positive score - just. 3/5
05th July, 2021
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Majestic Rose by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is a burst of May Rose, blossoms with w touch of the leaves too; the latter grows stronger after the first fifteen minutes or so. With time a synthetic oud accord is added, which is quite restrained and not very sharp or intrusive. A weak saffron transiently raises its head, without making al lasting impact thought.

After the a couple of hours the rose moves back into the foreground again, where is gradually is enriched by a pleasant raspberry note, which manages to push the rose aside again after an additional hour.

The base adds a guaiac wood impression, with the oud making a comeback too.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A well-crafted spring rose-oud scent, with a successful rendering of the rise as well as a predictable but agreeable oud; the rest is rather generic on me. 3.25/5

04th July, 2021
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Costa Azzurra Acqua by Tom Ford

The opening is a citric fruit mix with a herbal touch:
The citrus is a Meyer lemon, the fruits are berries - juniper berries and whiffs of boysenberries, and the herbal side is represented by some myrtle with a modicum of a green undertone. Not really refreshing, but with a poitive vibe to it.

The drydown develops into a pine feast, with the needles dominant initially, then some pine cones as well as the bark are present at this stage. the aroma for cypress oil is wafting in the background without disturbing the dominance of the pine notes at this stage.

The base adds a bit of a soft light amber and a touch of cistus - all very weak - with resinous hints deriving from a mastic note on the side.

I get sift sillage, adequate projection, and four hours of longevity on my skin.

A pleasant opening of the citrus/aquatic ilk that is nothing special as such. The heart notes with their pine dominance are nice; a bit like a sophisticated and modernised aftermath of the Pino Silvestre genre that is incorporated into this more complex creation. The base is rather bland and generic. Overall 2.75/5
03rd July, 2021
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Tom Ford Noir pour Femme by Tom Ford

The opening is a rich mix of sweetish spices, which are nested around a central nucleus of a restrained ginger impression. This spicy mix is soft, and not that dark; an undertone of citrus, mainly a restrained orange and a sweet mandarin add a certain glowingly brighter element in the background; touches of bergamot are transiently evident too.

The drydown turns floral, based on a somewhat pallid green-woody jasmine note. A rose absolute is present too, but it is not lasting long and remains weaker on me, whilst a concurrent orange blossom is more intensive and vivid on me. a milky accord is probably die to a Kulfi note; it is not particularly spicy on me.

Whiffs of a an airy and resinous nature lead into the later stage. A very discrete spicy vanilla is heralding the base, with the originals spicy note fading away at this time. a very light-footed ambery sandalwood is accompanying the vanilla, but the latter prevails in the end. In the finale a slightly indolic-sweet impression of nail polish is briefly making an appearnace.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and an excellent ten hours of longevity on my skin

A nice start of this scent for warmer winter and cooler autumn days does not detract from the pallid and at times generic character during the second half. The performance is very good. A reasonable office scent. 2.75/5
02nd July, 2021
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Rose Prick by Tom Ford

The top notes are a bouquet of roses, mainly May roses, a bit of the Bulgarian and Turkish varieties blended it, mainly the blossoms - but quite brief. Soon oot changes to more of the roses' leaves and stems.

Then I get a phase with a slightly herbal undertone, reminding at times of Colonna's rose-essence-infused olive oil; this is replaced swiftly but a nice tumeric impression; hints of white pepper add depth at this stage. A soft and quite bright patchouli develops, and gains more prominence well into the later stages.

The base is adding a fairly restrained vanilla, which remains rather bland on me until the very end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

The opening of this spring scent is quite nice as a good lashing of roses, albeit smells rather synthetic, and it does not last very long. The later stages are less vivid and less convincing, especially the base, which is more on the generic side. The performance is lacklustre after the first part 2.75.5
01st July, 2021
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Jil Sander Man III by Jil Sander

The opening blast is beautiful: a bright bergamot, accentuated by e delightful and gently spicy coriander, with herbal undertone that is due to a green rosemary and thyme duo. The an artemisa wormwood arises, and mixed in with the other top notes in a very balanced manner, allowing and the participants of this olfactory ballet to dance in tune.

The drydown ddds floral notes - mainly carnation and whiffs of lavender, whilst the artemisia continues its good work. The latter's boozy side is enhanced by an juniper impression that is accompanied by a slightly sour fruity notes of unripe pears.

The artemisia carries over into the base, aided by some gentle olibanum, a faint mossy undertone, as well as a slightly crisp light patchouli expression. A touch of woods, sandal mainly with whiffs of a coniferous nature come and go, with a set of sweeter white musks make an appearance towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection overall, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

The top notes of this autumnal creation and superb in quality, being dense, intense, nuanced and well-matched indeed; it smells of classic greatness. Unfortunately, in the drydown it is much weaker, and in the base it develops into a rather faint and much less impressive mix. Age might make vintage perfumes fade, so this might be a contributing factor, but it is judges in the here and now.A wormwood that fades with time. Overall 3.5/5
30th June, 2021
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Santal Blush by Tom Ford

Indeed sandalwood is a main part of the first seconds and minutes, and after that it is lingering on. The second component that arrived soon afterwards is a slightly spicy cumin, that mixed well with the wood note. A bit of a herbal touch (carrot seeds and a spicier fenugreek) adds further depth.

After a while a more floral phase sets in, with a slim and not particularly thick or creamy ylang-ylang as floral standard bearer, accompanied by rather nonspecific renderings of jasmine, a rose, and whiffs of violet. Still, the sandalwood remains present in the background as an equal partner.

Towards the later stages hints of a soft benzoin evolve, with a perfunctory attempt at an out impression. White musk are added in, and they are rather bland on me. Fortunately, the sandalwood lingers on, and even gains prominence in the later stages of the development of this creation.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, ad seven hour of longevity on my skin.

The heart and soul of this autumnal fragrance is the slightly creamy synthetic sandalwood, aided initially by the nice cumin note, and then by the fenugreek. The rest is quite generic and not impressive. Overall, nonetheless, quite nice due to the first half mainly, but not really making the grade to a positive score. 2.75/5.
29th June, 2021
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Sole di Positano by Tom Ford

The opening is a paradigmatic citric summer blast: bergamot (Calabrian per the company blurb), oranges, mandarin and a lemon - the latter determines the overall lack of sweetness and that touch of a tangy undertone I get. Very lovely and refreshing, but only lasting for the first couple of hours or so.

Then floral notes emerge, with an orange blossom being dominant on me; although a muguet with touches of a very light ylang-ylang, a touch of pallid shiso leaves, and a faint jasmine in the background. Towards the end a bit a wood-free neroli and a bland set of white musks make brief appearances.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This summer scent lives by the first part, the citrus blast. The rest is rather mediocre, except for the orange blossom. 3.25/5
28th June, 2021
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Vanille Fatale by Tom Ford

The opening blast is a set of spices, with saffron and cardamom clearly in the foreground; they result in the smooth and quite bright. a shadow of darker spices is thrown onto the initial dyadic mix by a frangipani impression.

A bit later a comforting coffee infusion develops, which is a soft black Arabica coffee that is mild and adding an interesting side note, which is given a further touch of spiciness by a smooth myrrh and hints of olibanum in the background.

It takes a number of hours for the eponymous vanilla to develop on me, and when it unfolds in its full strength one is pleasantly surprised: no beans about it: this is not one of TF's overpowering strong and thickly vanillas, but quite a balanced and more restrained rendering of this bean, which blends in well with the rest of the whole - the vanilla is a good team player. A note of roasted barley mention in the scent pyramid is hardly noticeable though, yet instead I get transient whiffs of a hazelnut aroma.

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice scent for warmer autumn days, and a less overpowering vanilla creation that many other on the market, but this makes its name somewhat misleading. Otherwise it is crafted well. Some notes are convincing, some are a bit too generic. 3.25/5
27th June, 2021
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Versace pour Homme Oud Noir by Versace

The start is a smooth and slightly sweet oud with w spicy background. The oud is blatantly synthetic, restrained and lacks any sharpness or crassness - an unobtrusive oud. The sweetness is derived from a gentle oriental spice mix - soft sweet peppers and whiffs of a soft saffron. I do get a very faint and soft suede impression in the background, which at times is accompanied by a whiff of a hesperidic touch.

Additionally6, a nonspecific woodsy undertone emerges after while, which fits in nicely with the rest.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and six hours of longevity on my skin.

An agreeable autumn scent, which is avoiding major pitfalls in the use of synthetic oud and woods, but lacks originality; still not bad. One of the better creations of this House. 2.75/5
26th June, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening is a floral mix, with a medium-bodied rose greeting me first. I t is not a heavy rose, and mainly rose blossom on me; I don't get much of the rose leaves and stems. Some bergamot infused brightness initially,and other florals are added with time. A lovely bright hyacinth is particularly noteworthy,whilst some geranium, and mimosa are added also. A restrained violet appears, which adds a darker shadow. Hints of cinnamon transiently appear with a slightly spicy moment, possibly the nasturtium and the cassia promised in the scent pyramid.

The drydown continues the floral theme, with muguet being dominant on me. a touch of jasmine is present, and some darker notes again, mainly violet, a smidgen on lily, and an impression and an earthier orris root - the latter is discreet and fails mo make a dent in the floral predominance.

The base Is still keeping echos of the floral fest, but changes to be mainly and ambery woodsy affair. hints of sandalwood and cedar fleeting raising their heads. Otherwise the base does not really develop anything new.

I get moderate sillage, good projection and five hours of longevity on my skin.

This spring creation's fabric of florals is quite a edifying and pleasant tour of the gardens of YSL. The dominating notes are crafted well, but some others are quite faint and pallid, which might be due to the age of my vintage version, but more recent edition have not been much more vivid and intense on me. The base is fairly nondescriptive. Overall - just - in the realm of a positive score. 3/5
24th June, 2021
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Black Opium Eau de Parfum Intense by Yves Saint Laurent

The opening presents with a pleasant slightly boozy accord of berries; I get boysenberries and whiffs of redcurrant, whilst the "blue absinthe" mentioned in the scent pyramid is more of a general alcohol spirit on me. Quite nice.

The drydown develops a note of a licorice-infused black coffee first, and then a restrained jasmine that remains in the background on me. What does not remain in the background is an orange blossom, which gradually moves into the foreground. The licorice is rather short-lived though.

The base is a vanilla impression, which is agreeable and neither cloying nor too intrusive. A nonspecific woodsiness hovers on the sidelines, with notions of sandalwood appearing transiently like an ephemeral olfactory apparition.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and six hours on longevity on my skin.

This flanker of a flanker is good for cooler spring days. With the standard Black Opium it shares the jasmine, the orange blossom and the coffee notes, but this intense version is more vivid and less bland indeed. Nonetheless, it is not very exciting overall and still generic most of the time. 2.75/5
23rd June, 2021