Perfume Reviews

Reviews by broguesforsir

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Total Reviews: 27

Colonia Leather by Acqua di Parma

Lovely smooth, sweet and slightly boozy leather.

CL opens with a bright, tart but full bodied citrus and quickly develops into a sweeter, smooth and slightly smokey leather, the guaiac wood being quite prominent to my nose. The combination of rose and citrus lend an almost berry-like accord. The rose appears deep red to me; sweet and rich but blended such that it is not a rose-heavy leather fragrance like, for example, Dior Homme Parfum.

Performance wise this is long lasting and pretty noticeable, so I’d go easy on the trigger.
08th September, 2020

Dior Homme Intense by Christian Dior

Super-smooth Iris with a milk chocolate accord from to the ambrette seed and vanilla.

Dry down sees the cedar become more prominent and a little too ‘hamster cagey’ if I’m being picky. I’m being picky. But it keeps it at 4 stars instead of 5 for me.

Still love it.
07th September, 2020 (last edited: 28th September, 2020)

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

My favourite fragrance of all time.

The addition of a ‘dirty’ jasmine and herbs to a sparkling lemon top creates a real ‘thirst quenching’ effect that the citrus itself could never achieve. I liken it to the effect of a good cup of English Breakfast Tea - it’s not a cold, sparkling beverage but it has such a balance of invigoration and depth that when done properly will quench your thirst like nothing else.

Eau Sauvage is a timeless, intimate, ‘gentlemanly’ and versatile fragrance. A real joy to wear.
07th September, 2020 (last edited: 14th September, 2020)
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Blu Mediterraneo : Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma

Shame this has been discontinued. Citrus with a noticeable aniseed accord, drying down to a pleasant light and fresh Vetiver. Overall, fresh and invigorating, somewhat aromatic. Could be a ‘spa’ fragrance.

Although not an aquatic, this reminds me of the sea. Lovely, though performance isn’t the best.
07th September, 2020

Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

Rural southern France. The scent of salty, sun-kissed skin and citrus and herbs floating on the breeze. Nice.
07th September, 2020

Tobacco Absolute by Molton Brown

First, lets dispel some myths regarding the performance. As seems to be the case with the Mesmerising Oudh Accord EDT (and so I wouldn’t be surprised if the same with other MB EDTs), my bottle of TA was very fleeting at first before blossoming after a couple of weeks or so of usage to providing very good longevity indeed. Projection? Well, other people have commented on it late in the afternoon when I think it has retreated, so no complaints there, either.

Now to the scent itself. I probably waxed lyrical a tad too much in my review of MB’s popular Mesmerising Oudh Accord EDT - to me there is a more noticeable (though not off-putting) synthetic element in that fragrance, at least early on. TA does not seem to be as well received, probably because despite its name tobacco is not particularly prominent, but I actually prefer it: it feels more rounded, is a lovely woody fragrance - think cedar with added rich, dark woods - and is definitely more versatile.

So, tobacco is not the big player here. The tobacco note although subtle is nicely blended, however. I get a brief grapefruit in the opening but this is almost at once muted by the elemi. That elemi note sticks around and I believe is responsible for lending a very slight pine fresh green accord which blends with the woods and nutmeg (did I mention nutmeg? Well, there is a tonne of it in TA) to produce an almost outdoorsy feel. The overall light feel of TA contributes to this as well, as despite the elemi and balsam, this is no heavy, ‘thick’ fragrance. Imagine strolling through an English wood, complete with the odd coniferous here and there, before retiring to a stately home, or more likely a gentleman’s club, with dark wooden panneled walls, leather chairs and a light, lingering aroma of previous patrons’ pipe tobacco. That’s what I get from TA. It’s an easy reach fragrance - not heavy or challenging, just a very nicely done, fresh woody fragrance.

TA’s drydown becomes cleaner and slightly soapy - a base accord I also detect in the Mesmerising Oudh EDT. In TA, this works nicely as it gradually smooths out the nutmeg and lends a softening freshness to the woods. All in all, TA is one of my favoured woody fragrances and it shines in cooler temperatures. A definite thumbs up.
02nd September, 2018

L'Envol by Cartier

A big thumbs up for this. An extremely elegant fragrance of honeyed, musky florals and resinous woods.

Like Claire V, I too pick up a very large violet leaf note in L'Envol. It is pretty much front and centre with the honey for me.

I was slightly concerned that the Guaiac Wood, when it made its entrance, would overwhelm the composition but it retreats quickly, blending beautifully and lending a warm, resinous depth.

It could be skin chemistry but I am bewildered how some have this down as a weak perfume. It was after two weeks of owning L'Envol that it became incredibly strong and long lasting with significant projection. I have to be very careful with the sprayer. Despite this, L'Envol never feels heavy. Mathilde Laurent has achieved brilliance in expressing great depth and clarity in each note whilst maintaining an overall feeling of lightness; true, it seems, to the name of the fragrance.

I consider L'Envol to be an excellent fragrance that treads a different path to many releases of the moment. Bravo Mathilde et Cartier!

EDIT: Notwithstanding the violet leaf note, I’m my nose is definitely picking up the iris in this these days.

16th September, 2017 (last edited: 13th May, 2018)

Optimistic for Him by Paul Smith

Unappealing sporty deodorant fragrance at first, then dries down to essentially a Platinum Egoiste clone. Good longevity.
19th March, 2017

L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

This EDP is smooth and quite subtle, a more 'mature' fragrance than the EDT but it is also very versatile, in my opinion.

A lovely boozy but smooth vanilla is prominent throughout and what I originally thought was mandarin in the opening is probably the combination of bergamot and almond. This brightness is very well blended and provides an extremely attractive contrast to the smooth, richness of the rest of the composition.

As it dries down the resins really come to the fore but as is the case with the whole fragrance, the edges are smoothed out. It's at this stage that a wonderful, soft incense also makes an appearance and it is another beautiful addition as it combines with the suede-like leather to weave in and out of the boozy vanilla and almond notes. The fruit accord still appears occasionally and it is this interplay between notes that was impressive to me and downright gorgeous.

The later dry down is a soft, creamy vanilla and sandalwood with the almond and fruit still peeking in and out. It really is very, very nice indeed and smells gorgeous on my shirt collar by the end of the day.

It wears quite close to the skin quicker than many fragrances I own but I still like this one very much indeed. And although fairly rich, I find it a very versatile fragrance due to its lighter elements and gentle projection.

EDIT: This is yet another fragrance that gets stronger with age. Longevity and projection become very good indeed.
02nd October, 2016 (last edited: 11th October, 2017)

Dior Homme Eau for Men by Christian Dior

Nice first part, not so nice second part.

The first part is reminiscent of the original DH and DHI with that lovely powdery, smooth iris prominent. This time though it is lighter and supported by fresh citrus and coriander. It's a nice start.

I find the second part overly synthetic compared to the first, unfortunately. The iris disappeared and I was left with a non-descript but unnatural smelling woody-floral dry down that I've smelled many times before. Maybe that was the intention when DHE was conceived: a more accessible, recognisable and versatile Dior Homme. It is not an accord I like, however.

I'm in the minority for not loving this but I still consider DHE to be a competent perfume. It's development however left me wishing for more. That second part just isn't for me.
01st October, 2016 (last edited: 02nd October, 2016)

Gentlemen Only Absolute by Givenchy

This is supposed to be a gentleman at his absolute best; a sensual and sophisticated fragrance and the absolute essence of a gentleman. Well, the bottle is spectacularly ugly, so not a good start.

The spicy fresh opening is quite nice but unfortunately it does not deliver after that. Within a few minutes it accomplished the rather impressive feat of developing into something I found simultaneously boring and unpleasant.

The juxtaposition of the spicy citrus and sweet oriental accords just doesn't work, IMO. I can see what they have tried to do but for me at least it all too soon loses its structure and becomes bland, sweet, slightly too loud, and sadly, not very sophisticated.

GOA is not a bad fragrance per se, however, and the opening, although fleeting, is rather nice. All in all, a neutral from me.
26th August, 2016

L'Homme Idéal Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

I own and enjoy both the EdP and the Cologne EDT flankers and this original version is clearly aimed at achieving more mass-market appeal than other Guerlains; though I will say it does so with a marginal degree of elegance and a nice twist, and is not your 'straight-up' derivative commercial scent.

That said, I tried and tried to get into this fragrance but ultimately it just isn't a fragrance I could commit to.

I've had a few samples of this over time and although the heart and base combine to achieve a rather alluring accord, its sweet-boozy style has a chemical aspect to it that is just too uncomfortable to my nose.

A neutral for me.
13th April, 2016 (last edited: 07th February, 2018)

Casamorati 1888 Mefisto by Xerjoff

A substantial citrus fragrance with a strong floral heart and warm woody base.

The quality of the ingredients really shine through with this one. It is absolutely refined and has a superb clarity about it. The citrus opening is fantastic - ripe, juicy and invigorating fruits - and is supported by uplifting Lavender, before the Iris arrives to add a lovely elegance to proceedings.

Performance is also impressive and of all the fragrances I own, it is my wife's favourite.
05th April, 2016
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L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême / Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Vintage (dark-rimmed) version:

A superb, shining, multifaceted, elegant, cultured masterpiece of modern perfumery.

LIDGE is noticeably oily when applied, which I consider to be a good thing.

A fragrance of real quality from Guerlain. Truly excellent.

Edit: If I were to pick at one thing with this fragrance it would be that the patchouli is slightly heavier than I would wish. I've found it harder to deal with over time. I can't recall, it being a long while since I tried it, but maybe the EDT is more forgiving in this respect.

Edit II: Oh, I don’t know...I wore it yesterday for the first time in six and-a-half months and it was fantastic!

04th April, 2016 (last edited: 13th May, 2018)

Colonia Essenza by Acqua di Parma

A superb flanker to the original cologne.

As others have said, Essenza is a deeper, richer version of the original Colonia. It is built largely around a Neroli note and features in its heart a green Lily Of The Valley, ably supported by its classic bedfellow, Jasmine. The Patchouli, Amber and White Musk in the base provide a beautiful smooth and extremely sophisticated dry down.

Essenza maintains that traditional old school refinement, achieved in no small part by the soapy effect of the Neroli and also the Rosemary from the original, whilst adding a touch of modernity that feels totally congruous. Longevity, projection and sillage are decent for a cologne.

Essenza is a brilliantly executed cologne and will certainly become a mainstay of my wardrobe.
02nd April, 2016 (last edited: 01st March, 2017)

Sauvage by Christian Dior

Straight back to the 80's with this one. And not in a good way, unfortunately.

I'm surprised at Dior releasing such a pungent, brash and synthetic fragrance like this. I try to see the positives in all fragrances where I can but for me at least, the negativity is warranted here, I'm sad to say.

If we are talking recent designer releases of a more commercial nature, Guerlain's L'homme Ideal EDT is far, far superior to Sauvage, even though I find I have to go lightly with the former to stop it veering into heavily sweet territory.
02nd April, 2016 (last edited: 22nd April, 2016)

Bottega Veneta pour Homme by Bottega Veneta

This is a very masculine fragrance harking back to the bold, fresh, woody colognes of the past and brought up to date with a beautiful, refined elegance.

I remember my first wearing. I knew it was a subtle fragrance, so six quick sprays to the neck it was. Five minutes later, in the car, I couldn't detect it and neither could my wife. Subsequent wearings I could detect it most of the day, and with fewer sprays. Make of that what you will.

I won't detail notes and development as others have already done so, suffice to say it is a fresh, coniferous, woody scent with a smooth and subtle leather base. I'm with those who regard this as a refined, complex twist on a classic style of cologne. It sits close to the skin and does not shout (it does not need to) its presence. I don't pick up the leather in the extreme version very much at all, unlike this original. That flanker just seems to have amped up the pimento. This original fragrance is also better balanced in my opinion, and for those reasons, I prefer it.

Unlike the naysayers, longevity is quite decent on me and every now and then I get a nice, subtle cloud of this fragrance around me. It is intimate, make no mistake, but no more than some others out there these days and that is how it is meant to be if you read the marketing blurb.

BVPH speaks as though it is a fragrance for a confident, secure and emotionally mature man. It is not for the boy in a man's world.
07th February, 2016 (last edited: 21st January, 2017)

Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma

I absolutely adore this twist on the original Colonia.

The opening is an incredibly accomplished and refined aromatic citrus blast of bergamot and verbena. The florals follow, accentuated by a subtle chilli pepper, all lending a beautifully sophisticated air to proceedings. Everything quietens down to a soft, powdery-floral, woody base with a noticeable musky element and this phase lingers for a good while.

For me, this cologne is reminiscent of the heavy heat of summer, with its subtle spice and jasmine and that almost creamy accord (probably the Ylang Ylang), yet it still provides an invigorating lift.

The original Colonia conjures images of a Hollywood star of a by-gone era strolling along a European riviera in the warmth of the daytime sun. Assoluta has the same 'sunshine in a bottle' character but it's also the sultry evening warmth.

Ultimately, Assoluta reminds me of the 1970's with that creamy, spicy, floral-muskiness, paired with the citrus: It's a warm, slightly sticky, summer evening. The light is fading and the French doors to the living room are open wide. Playing on my father's turntable is Hotel California, or Rumours, or maybe Rose of Cimarron. This scent, for some reason, takes me back to that wonderful time. I will never be without a bottle of this fragrance.
07th February, 2016 (last edited: 27th February, 2016)

Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold by Molton Brown

Already owning their excellent Oudh shower gel, I decided to purchase the EDT and I am very happy I did. This is a beautifully crafted, light and fresh take on Oudh, and although unisex, I would say it leans more to the masculine.

We get sweetness, spice, earthiness, musky warmth and a freshness, all balanced with seemingly effortless poise and elegance. An hour or so in and the tea accord gives a really nice, light lift to proceedings. A pleasant tobacco accord arrives later in the dry down, providing another welcome development, and keeping things interesting before the scent retreats to a softer, powdery, musky skin scent.

The Oudh accord is noticeable enough to provide an attractive headiness without being pungent. Overall, it is slightly sweeter than the shower gel of the range and the Oudh accord in the shower gel may even be a little heavier, though obviously shorter lived. Those who prefer lighter Oudhs, or are looking for a different take on the genre, would do well to give this a try. This is a very good perfume for the money.

Whilst it does sit fairly close to the skin, it will last throughout the working day, so it has decent longevity.

Do I wish it was a tad less subtle? It is such an appealing fragrance, that I'd say yes, but that is by no means a criticism. This is a really well done, inventive take on Oudh. Highly recommended.
29th January, 2016 (last edited: 04th February, 2016)

L'Homme Idéal Cologne by Guerlain

An offering from Guerlain that leans toward the mainstream. I enjoyed the couple of wearings I had from my sample of this. A bright, citrus opening with a fresh green almond heart, rounded off by musk in the base. Very long lasting considering its labelled a cologne (it is in fact an EDT)

EDIT: I like this so much I bought a FB in December 2015. It's a very nice, fresh and versatile cologne. A little synthetic from a smell of the bottle but it soon settles in nicely when applied. It has a gorgeous fresh, green almond heart, with a pleasantly smooth dry down. Great in warmer weather.
03rd October, 2015 (last edited: 18th April, 2016)

Colonia Club by Acqua di Parma

Tested this in store. First impressions are that it's green but not as fresh as I thought it would be. It lacks the excitement, elegance and intrigue of the other colonias (Intensa excepted, maybe, but even that is much better than Club) and I was utterly underwhelmed. A rare swing and a miss for this house. I will try it again, but really, it simply struck me as unimaginative and bland.

Tried this again today. Terrible. Truly terrible. This is only my opinion and I respect that others appreciate this fragrance. My slamming of this fragrance is not to shock or provoke, or because the AdP citrus DNA is absent, it is because I am genuinely disappointed with it. Comparisons with Cool Water are off the mark but that does not save it. For me, the notes are a just a confused jumble and there's a noticeable synthetic element to it, though I would not go so far as to say it smells cheap. Mint is notable from the opening, but I wouldn't call it fresh. Try Bergamotto di Calabria from their Blu Mediterraneo line for a fresh, woody aromatic scent. Ten minutes in and Club is strikingly similar to the bamboo and white freesia fragrance plug-in from a well-known high street home fragrance brand. An odd comparison, I know, but it really is. I can see it working better in the cooler Autumn air and some will revel in it during that season. For me, however, I am sorry to say this is a poor offering from AdP.
26th July, 2015 (last edited: 29th August, 2015)

Tom Ford Noir by Tom Ford

EdP - Good all-round fragrance, if a little better suited to evenings, maybe. It has very good longevity on my skin and the ingredients are of a good quality.

It's a smooth, slightly spicy and very powdery Oriental with a soft rose. The patchouli and civet are prominent on my skin, the patchouli especially so in the dry down. I don't overspray as the civet becomes too much for me otherwise. The dry down is lovely, I have to say.

I am partial to a powdery fragrance - there's something warm and comforting about them, so I like this.

I now own Habit Rouge EDT and Héritage EDT. I prefer those but Noir EDP is a nice, modern take on a classical theme. It's great when I'm in the mood for that twist and so I'm glad to have this choice in my wardrobe.
24th January, 2015 (last edited: 28th August, 2017)

Laine de Verre by Serge Lutens

LdV greets it's host with the most loud and violent opening from a fragrance that I have ever encountered: A clash of chemicals with a mint-like note compete for attention. This fragrance certainly challenges one's perception of perfume; however for me it has failed to do so in a constructive way. An incredibly bitter, chemical note persists within this fragrance (probably symbolic of glass fibres) which I find quite repulsive and sickening.

I admire this house but alas, not this creation.
05th April, 2014

Himalaya by Creed

Cold, yet warm; sour, yet sweet. Himalaya is a conundrum and it's not surprising that it divides so many people.

The opening is a cold, citrus blast of alcohol. Unlike some, this doesn't grab me. It actually reminds me of that chemical odour of women's hairspray.

For me, though, Himalaya is all about the dry down. It stays somewhat austere on me for a good few hours as a cold, metallic note persists but then it develops into a lovely, warm sandalwood base, touched by a most agreeable incense note.

I don't understand why so many reviewers have called Himalaya generic. I would agree that it doesn't belong to the familiar Creed family of fragrances, but I regard it as anything but generic. I also get the impression that this is a fragrance that projects more favourably than the wearer may realise. I know that sounds odd but those notes that rise from close quarters through the wearer's nasal passages, particularly for the first two or three hours, are definitely less revealing and balanced than they are for a receiving nose a couple of feet away.

I've had my bottle for about a year now and I wore Himalaya on a cold day recently after a fairly long break and I have to say it was a joy - more so than past outings. It has grown on me with time and I swear it has improved with age, like my bottle of Aventus. Or that could just be me, warming to it.

I also have a different experience with longevity to many reviewers. On that day, it was an absolute beast. I applied three sprays to the neck in the morning and my wife and I could still smell it after 13 hours, although it was naturally wearing closer to the skin by then. I did apply some unscented moisturiser to my neck first, so that may well have assisted.

If you want a fragrance that is inoffensive and versatile but still shouts quality, then you could do a lot worse. Not up there with my favourites by any means but I do find myself enjoying wearing Himalaya very much. Overall, a worthy addition to a collection.
23rd March, 2014 (last edited: 11th June, 2018)

Chergui by Serge Lutens

I do appreciate the sheer talent of Monsieur Lutens and Chergui is probably my favourite fragrance of all time. This is not a fragrance I wear to be noticed, or to project some kind of image or identity; this is a fragrance I wear for me and me only.

Almost gourmand in nature, it envelopes me with its beautiful, warming, and unique oriental self. There isn't much more I can say. Absolutely incredible.

Edit: A friend of mine bought himself a bottle of Chergui about a couple of months ago. It is a genuine product but is noticeably different to what I have. It has less depth and complexity compared with mine, bought quite a few years ago now. It is undeniably Chergui but it just isn't as arresting. The juice I reviewed may well have been pre a reformulation judging from this and other reviews and chatter I have seen online.
23rd March, 2014 (last edited: 27th July, 2015)

Aventus by Creed

A very, very small amount of this left in my 30ml bottle (batch C42B11Y02, for those that need to know) that I purchased in August 2012.

On me, I experience the following: A sharp pineapple and bergamot opening and a hint of apple. This lasts for a few minutes before the pineapple settles down to a smoother fruit note (but still very much pineapple all the way) while the middle notes with a delicate smoky birch begin to open up. There's definitely some patchouli and rose weaving in and out at this stage, as is listed. The basenotes then combine to give a beautiful, sweet woody depth, while every so often the pineapple cuts through to liven things up. There's not a significant or complex evolution on my skin but for me at least that does not detract from the appeal of this fragrance.

Expertly blended, this fragrance, with very good quality ingredients. It's a 'modern' Creed fragrance that manages to have that almost transparent airy-ness that the good Creeds have but it doesn't suffer from longevity or strength issues despite this. Projection is easily 8 hours on my skin, after which time it is more of a skin scent (Only Himalaya from the other Creeds I have betters this). It's certainly very masculine, though some may find it a little on the younger man- side, as I do occasionally, but it is a fragrance that can reward a sophisticated older gent, too. Smells gorgeous on fabric and lasts on it for days. Equally at home in formal and casual surroundings, it can be worn in all seasons and both day and night but probably a little more suited to daytime wearing.

Mine has probably improved in the bottle with age. I'm not so sure I will be rushing to buy another bottle given the price has increased over time, though. As impressive as this juice is, I'm not so sure it should demand £95 upwards.
23rd March, 2014

Bulgari Man Extreme by Bulgari

Edit: Tried this again and I concur with many of the reviewers here that the opening is the best part of this fragrance. As stated before though, the dry down, while pleasant, does not really make me want to come back for more and this formula has been done before. It is a nice, 'safe' fragrance but a safe fragrance can still be interesting and unfortunately, for me, this isn't.

Was given a couple of samples of this fragrance in a department store. The dry down is extremely similar to the inexpensive Next (the retailer) 'NX Sport' that I wore in the 90's! Seriously. Nice and fresh in a generic sort of way but lacks the sophistication and individuality of warmer weather (how I regard this) fragrances I already own and prefer. They may well be more expensive than BME but then BME is more expensive than NX Sport...
13th March, 2014 (last edited: 11th February, 2016)