Reviews by Andrè Moreau

Yohji by Yohji Yamamoto

The more I wear this masterpiece, the more I think it was a turning point in perfumery.
Scheduled as "feminine" but absolutely not a feminine fragrance, on the contrary, at least an "unisex" fragrance. Enormous longevity, especially on clothes. Marvelous "incensey" drydown.
Interesting to say, Luca Turin didn't review this, but the "Homme" version only.
Be sure to find the "Jean Patou 1996" label on the box to try the original one.
Rating 10/10.

Bel Ami by Hermès

Extraordinary scent from the Eighties

One of the most pleasant experiences in perfumery world. Vintage is superior, but the reformulated is nonetheless really good.

Pros: Unique, one-of-a-kind.
Cons:

Vetyver / Vétiver by Givenchy

Probably the best Vetyver ever produced.

Review for the old version (discontinued in 1995)

I could say a lot of things about this "Eau the Vetyver" made in very small quantities only for pleasing Hubert de Givenchy.... but words are unnecessary.

This is the best vetyver ever created. Period.

Pros: The best one. Period.
Cons:

Olympios by Missoni

Vintage Fahrenheit in disguise

close your eyes, it's Fahrenheit in the Eighties.

Olympios was a flop, due to its similitudine to Dior's classic, but it had to be re-discovered now.

Santal by Roger & Gallet

One of the best "Santal" ever. Period.

Almost difficult to describe. The rose-santal accord developed by this scent reaches the high mountains of the olfactive pleasure. A must-try for every serious perfume lovers..

Pros: Memorable Rose-Santal accord
Cons: Hard to find"

Sergio Tacchini by Sergio Tacchini

Very, very good.

I'll not add too many explanations, other reviewers did it in a excellent way.

I only add that this is -maybe- one of the BEST SUMMER SCENT ever produced since it can resist to high temperatures and burning sun.

Scent nr. 1 to be used when summer it's really hot.

.....and I'm very pleased to say that I tried the original from1987 and modern one side-by-side, and although there are some notable differences, the "core" of this perfume is still intact.

The modern version has a gentle, slight talc and iris-like background. Someone could appreciate it. The vintage version is more "rude".

Longevity is decent under the sun, while enormous when in office or at home.

Please note this is a Summer scent, make no sense wear it during the winter.

Ayway, two thumbs up both vintage and modern.

(final word: it's sold at ridiculous price in stores -15 euros for 100ml-, it deserves a lot.)

Pros: One of the best scent for summer. Reformulated version is OK
Cons:

Gianni Versace by Versace

Those good ol' times....

Extraordinary fragrance from the end of Seventies/ beginning of Eighties.

Very, very long longevity and strong sillage.,

The EDT is equivalent to a modern Eau de Parfum. And it's good, very good.

You can literally "smell the quality"-.

two thumbs up.

BTW the bottle is NOT the one in picture, but this:

Pros: You can "smell the quality"
Cons:

Bugatti Homme by Etorre Bugatti

Bugatti what?

Wonder if many of these reviews are mistakes, since descriptions (amber, vanilla) are more appropriate the Bugatti pour Homme ( same name) year 1992, aka "the original", a totally different and much, much better scent.

I mean this: Ettore Bugatti the original, year 1992

Ma Liberté by Jean Patou

A masterpiece. Period.

This is one of the most underrated scents in the world of perfumery, and should be one of the most praised. Although "for women", it fits GREAT for men. If you are a man and know "Jean Patou pour Homme Prive", you will not disappointed since there are a lot of similarities.

Absolutely "blind buy", "top pick", "thumbs up".

Pros: Extraordinary quality ingredients.
Cons: discontinued.</p>

Balenciaga pour Homme by Balenciaga

The only thing I can say about this scent is that we have a Masterpiece in front of us. A real caleidoscope of different vibes, a monster longevity >12 hrs, without being rude as classic powerhouses usually do...and one of the best drydown ever. Discontinued in 1999, if you find a bottle grab it immediately.
It starts where Kouros ends, and goes beyond the stars.
two thumbs up are not enough.

Luciano Pavarotti by Luciano Pavarotti

probably one of the most underrated perfumes ever.
An astonishing concentration of ingredients, a very long evolution, a lot of nuances emerging, and, finally, an uncommon, very original, male vibe.
Luciano Pavarotti is rich, complex and very original. Two thumbs up,
and grab it if you can, surely will have a cult following.

Phileas by Nina Ricci

A true masterpiece. An aromatic scent that evolves through the hours, showing a different vibe each time. two thumbs up aren't enough.

Aventus by Creed

This is nothing but an average scent with a strong pineapple note.
Nothing extraordinary for those people used to know many other perfumes.

Monsieur Lanvin by Lanvin

The classic scent from another Age.
By the way, it could be called "King of Civet", there is an astonishing quantity of.

Versace l'Homme by Versace

One of the best male scents ever, surely one of the most pleasant during the day. Starting with citrus, changing after a few minutes in one of the best rose ever, ending with woods, leather and moss of the best quality.
If not 10/10, at least 9.5/10
Try to find the vintage version (brown box), since the newer is more watered down.

Bugatti (original) by Etorre Bugatti

I'm really pleased to be the first to write a review of this unknown Masterpiece!
"It starts like a beautiful "citrusy" perfume, and slowly, slowly... it transforms in an heavy animalic scent"
Welcome in the Realm of Citrus and Castoreum!

When a I speak about "Ettore Bugatti", I can not help but be rhetorical.
This is not a perfume: this is an obscure MASTERPIECE of perfumery.
If Patou pour Homme deserves 10/10, well, "Ettore Bugatti" deserves 9.5/10.

I remember the first time I tried it, during the Nineties (no IFRA restrictions, no cheapies, no extreme dilutions, all luxury, all top-notch ingredients...) ...and I was astonished: I instantly realized I was in front of a pillar of Art of Perfumery.
Where can I start?
Well, if you thought to know what "longevity" is, you probably were wrong. If you spray "Bugatti" in the morning, you could be sure in the evening you can still smell it.... "seven hours longevity" is the minimum. That's due that the concentration is very high: in fact, when you spray it on your skin , it seems to have layered not water, but a sort of oil.
Let's go to most important factor, the olfactive pyramid (please note it's all hyper-concentrated)

*Top Notes: Aldehydes. Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lemon, Lime, Neroli, Rosewood
•Middle Notes: Carnation, Cedar, Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Rose, Sandalwood
•Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Castoreum, Labdanum, Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla

There are two remarkably things: the initial burst, I'll say "explosion" of aldheydes and citrus; and the most shocking thing: the transformation of the "citrusy" notes (bergamot, neroli, lemon. limes) in "animalic" ones (leather oakmoss, castoreum) .... slowly along the day.
Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde at their best ;-)
...and what a pleasant experience!! Listen to me, my friends: the "citrusy notes" are NOT the usual , average citrusy ones... here citrusies, mixed with aldheydes, are far beyond any description. Not to say ther ending, with all these castoreum and amber-leather notes.

As someone said: "this could be the equivalent of Guerlain Shalimar...for Men".

I thought it many times, if it was a big brand perfume instead of small brand one...what a success!
I urge you STRONGLY to try "Ettore Bugatti" first version, if you can !!
Can you trust me, if I say you "Ettore Bugatti" it's far beyond the mass perfumery??

please note: there are at least 3 different versions:
1-blue box with "Bugatti" logo and "Frosted" bottle (1992),
2-blue box without Bugatti logo (mid-'90),
3 black box, transparent (no frosted) bottle ( in production).
I suggest to search and buy the number 1 ("Bugatti" logo) , available both splash and spray

Seveline - Vanille Bourbon / Bourbon Vanilla by Laurence Dumont

A very strong , bitter-vanilla scent. Not so feminine, due to its lack of sweetness. Strong amber drydown. Very very good and underrated fragrance.

M7 Oud Absolu by Yves Saint Laurent

I disagree with ferocious critics all over the net: substantially, the M7 Oud Absolu is not a piece of junk but almost the same of the "reformulated" M7, the only main difference is the lacking of the famous/infamous cherry syrup opening. Not an extraordinary scent , but an adequate one. The oud is entirely synthetic here, but it's pleasant to smell.
In a few words: The M7 "toned-down".

Muscs Koublaï Khän by Serge Lutens

not bad but nothing extraordinary. It seems to be too similar to many other "musc" parfums. Overrated in my opinion.

Miel de Bois by Serge Lutens

Only for a few moments you can smell the honey, then turn in a somewhat strange intense sweet note. Long duration. Not bad, but not for everybody.

Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme by Van Cleef & Arpels

(vintage verson from Nineties)
A superb one, very masculine, very pleasant and warm. It resembles "those old male parfums with marvelous smell".
Reccommended without any doubt.

Vetiver de Java by Il Profumo

This has nothing to do with classic "vetiver" à la Guerlain, but it's a good fragrance with some pleasant fresh, green notes. Too much expensive in my opinion.

Santal Rouge by Il Profumo

I'm sorry to say this is a "wrong" scent, too many different notes that don't "catch" each other. Some notes too sweet, others too dry.
Not horrible , but it's not a pleasant fragrance.

L'Eau du Navigateur by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Possibly the best Artisan Parfumeur scent. A true male fragrance full with spices and woods, and...of course, it is the starting point of "Terre d'Hermes", very similar.
Blind buy, trust it.

Vétiver by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Just tried a 11 years old sample. This is one of the best vetiver ever produced. Very Dry, intense, with at least 6 hour-longevity, on par with long-acclaimed Guerlain counterpart. It's a pity it was discontinued.

Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur

One of the rare "Dry Vanilla" scents, with a really monster longevity ( +10 hours on my skin) .Not a female scent but a pleasant, unisex one. L.Turin gives a 5-star. Unfortunately discontinued since 2010.

Solinotes Mûre by Arno Sorel

I smiled at first smell, it has the same fragrance of Veuve Clicquot Champagne :)
To smell equals to drink ! Kudos to Arno Sorel Parfumes, a very underrated maison.

Solinotes Ambre by Arno Sorel

I felt really embarrassed, since the first smell I understood to have found a REALLY great scent. A sort of incense poured over leather, with a bit -only a bit- of vanilla in the background. Monster longevity: I spent over 5 hours smelling my wrist. Heavily recommended to all people loving "dark" fragrances.
Very affordable price.

Solinotes Vanille by Arno Sorel

Not bad as a sweet vanille, nothing extraordinary, but worth of its (very low) price.

Côte d'Amour by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is a great "dirty" scent, it's unexplicable why l'Artisan discontinued it. If you want a scent very different from the mass-market, here it is.