Perfume Reviews

Reviews by FiveoaksBouquet

Total Reviews: 18

Aura by Thierry Mugler

After wearing Aura (edp) for a while I find it has a kind of split personality that keeps drawing me to it. It is a blend of some very traditional 20th century perfume accords with some very odd reportedly formerly unused in perfumery tropical green notes: rhubarb leaf, tiger liana, orange blossom, Bourbon vanilla, wolfwood. This juxtaposition creates a unique—yes—aura.

My first reaction when smelling it was it smelled like it was created by a committee because its notes seemed so disparate, and it was! Four perfumers were required to pull it together. It felt uncomfortable and strange. But after a while the strangeness became a pull and now I find it stunning and wearable—like one would wear a five-carat emerald—a little self-consciously.
07th June, 2020

Shalimar Souffle de Parfum by Guerlain

The only thing wrong with Shalimar Souffle de Parfum is calling it Shalimar. Like the regretted Shalimar Parfum Initial, Souffle de Parfum is a scent worthy of independence. Trying to increase sales by linking these scents to Shalimar has backfired making the reviews suffer because Shalimar they are not.

That said, on its own merits Souffle de Parfum is indeed a “breath of perfume” It sits on the skin like a feather and creates a delicate aura around the wearer. The floral and vannilic notes form a hazy blend, which, rather than smelling like something applied, seems to emanate from the wearer.

Strange impression: Souffle starts out like a modern light perfume then as it enters its long drydown begins to smell like a scent that could have existed a hundred years ago, hovering somewhere between a Shalimar and a L’Heure Bleue type.
19th January, 2020 (last edited: 20th January, 2020)

Angel Muse Eau de Toilette by Thierry Mugler

It is the vetiver that hooks me into Angel Muse Eau de Toilette. Mugler does vetiver in here by weaving it in and out. It is elusive, not imposing, so that if you like vetiver and want to smell it, your nose is constantly sniffing for more, thus an addictive dosage. I also loved the eau de parfum of Angel Muse, in which the gourmand aspects seem more pronounced. Where the edp evokes images of a Vienna pastry shop, the edt is a little bit gourmand but fresher and more woody. I am finding it irresistable.
28th October, 2018
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Mon Guerlain Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Usually I like to wear a perfume for a while before reviewing it. I have only been wearing Mon Guerlain for a few days but this time I wanted to register some initial impressions while they’re fresh.

Mon Guerlain is aptly named because that’s exactly the impression the first whiff made: “Hi, I’m a Guerlain.” It somehow even today manages to exude notes evoking the signature Guerlain accord—like bergamot, vanilla, coumarin—and starts with a breezy lavender tip of the hat to Jicky.

Middle notes could vary and still keep the house vibe. in this case jasmine, rose and iris were used—right down the middle of perfumery tradition. Mon Guerlain surely contains its share of modern aromachemicals to claim a place in today’s olfactory style but not so as to detract from its lineage. The whole effect as it dries down in a powdery oriental cloud is to create an elusive and yet recognizable aura around the wearer.

With an emphasis on Guerlain signature notes and the inclusion of easy-to-wear floral and modern elements it could possibly fill the role that the unfortunately discontinued Shalimar Parfum Initial failed to do; i.e., act as a gateway scent to the world of Guerlain. I like it for its carefree classiness.

More impressions after a couple of months:

It’s like Mon Guerlain is a perfume spanning three centuries: top notes of an oriental-fougère Jicky vibe from 1889, classic 20th century floral rose-jasmine-iris heart, and trendy 21st century vanilla-musc drydown. I wonder if this seeming time-span effect was a conscious plan.
12th August, 2018 (last edited: 21st October, 2018)

No. 5 by Chanel

I've been a wearer of Chanel No 5 for several decades and of all the perfumes I have worn it varies more from one concentration or product or era to another than any other perfume in my experience. Therefore reviews of the scent in general leave me a bit in the dark as to which No 5 is being covered. The two products and concentrations I prefer and am reviewing here are the eau de toilette and parfum, which I find resemble each other most of all available formats, and which, although they have evolved over the years, retain the classic No 5 DNA the most.

I am a big ylang ylang fan and the parfum and edt seem to bring it out more than other versions. I think one also has to enjoy powder and aldehydes to like No. 5. The edp to me is an entirely different scent, in which the rose and jasmine stand out more. I also find it "louder." The edt and parfum do not project as much but seem to hover like an aura around the wearer and puff up from time to time during the day. The "Chanelade" drydown is evident still, although today's edt is lighter than in the past.

My mom didn't wear it but it was the signature scent of my best friend in college. During that time I abstained so as not to steal her thunder but once we went our separate ways it was all mine to enjoy! I find it discreet, refined and extremely easy to wear.

Oh--one more distinction: the edt available here is made in France and judging from former testing, is drier, not quite as sweet and powdery as the one made in USA.
03rd June, 2018

Angel Muse by Thierry Mugler

By now I have gone through about 175 ml of Angel Muse and feel ready to review it! :D To the laudatory adjectives (with which I agree) voiced in some of the other reviews I would add "friendly." When wearing AM I feel as if I am accompanied by a friend. It also to me conjures up images of Austria-Hungary in the golden age of the operetta a century ago, probably due to the rich music and delicious pastries famous from that area.

The lightly included Angel DNA and hazelnut cream are very pleasant yet for me the hook is the vetiver. Some reviews I have seen claim there is too much vetiver; I find it is just on the borderline of enough--the result being that my nose is always sniffing for more. Because of always wanting to smell more of the vetiver, in the dry and dusty way it is incorporated into the gourmand aspects, I just can't get enough of wearing this perfume.

During the summer I wore Angel Muse more frequently than any other perfume and now I am looking forward to smelling it on cold air. I can't say enough about how well composed it is or how much I like it, so to avoid going on forever, time to stop here.
30th September, 2017 (last edited: 04th October, 2017)

Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens

The reviews for Nuit de Cellophane vary widely. Many are negative. There must be one or more shampoos out there that resembles it, as it is sometimes likened to shampoo. As well, it disappointed some by departing from the opulent oriental brand identity that Lutens fans expected, being a light fruity floral.

It took me a while to "adjust" to NdC as well, mainly because I found it had some odd notes to which I was not accustomed. I've been wearing NdC for a while now and still don't know what they are! :D I went through about 3/4 of a bottle with a question mark hovering over my head and then suddenly, it fell into place. I get the osmanthus and, as it develops, a mysterious undertone part tuberosy and part like the kind if incense that hovers in the air in Chinese shops. Lightly floral on the surface, it has a richness deep within. I love it. NdC lasts all day on me with about six short spritzes.
28th August, 2017

Angel Eau de Toilette by Thierry Mugler

Angel EDT is not Angel lite. While still bearing the Angel DNA, it has an imprint of its own. I always found that "Angel DNA note" addictive. I would have a strong urge to wear it for that note and then after a short while it would be too much for me and I'd have to stop. Enter Angel EDT. It has that "addictive" note, very lightly, and yet the rest of the scent goes in a different direction, somewhat edgy, airy, a little bit woody and easy to wear over longer periods. It has a moderate sillage and a light mist lasts all day. Best news: a good friend who is highly sensitive to perfume and usually complains about it complimented Angel EDT!
18th June, 2017

Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

I have always found the name Youth Dew silly and if someone asks about it or compliments it I feel silly saying it. That said, I like the juice. I've worn YD on and off over some decades, edp, parfum, body cream and bath oil (as parfum). Also used the yearly solid perfume compacts and long ago there was a YD cologne, which was my favourite form as it had a crispness that snapped your neck around when you smelled it. :D

YD always had a place in my repertoire until coming up on its 50th Anniversary in 2003. The bottles I bought were sometimes made in Canada, sometimes in the US. One bottle I bought I had to return, it just wasn't right. When I bought the anniversary gilded bottle it said made in Switzerland. Mistake again. It didn't smell right either. YD had lost the exhilarating floral opening and distinctive woody note that differentiated it from every other spicy oriental out there and it smelled generic and blah.

Fast forward to the other day when idling in a downtown perfume department I chanced to pick up the Youth Dew bottle and lo and behold it smelled a lot like it used to in the beginning. The bottle said made in USA. I had heard that Lauder had been "restoring" some original scents and wondered if YD was one of them. Whatever they had done to it, it smelled more like itself again. Bought the edp on the spot and am enjoying it once more. And add my voice to the chorus that says: Apply lightly, please!
11th August, 2016

Oud Saphir by Atelier Cologne

I love ambrette and the note is very evident in Oud Saphir. To my nose there is somethng almost achingly intimate about ambrette. It seems to reveal the emotions of the wearer, which can feel vulnerable. The prior reviews describe Oud Saphir in all its notes very well. I had a similar experience to poppysrain: after I bought it I thought why? A year later I love it. Whereas I didn't "understand" the unusual notes (although there was something alluring that prompted me to buy it, which I did spontaneously after one sniff), they now seem to have truly come together in a harmonious whole. It has often happened that time has caused a perfume to blend into itself better and Oud Saphir has benefitted from this process. Very little is needed. It is potent and long-lastig. Beautiful stuff.
06th July, 2016

L'Ile au Thé by Annick Goutal

Is it perverse to like a perfume because it's "unmemorable?" That is how I find L'Île au Thé, refreshingly dry and citrusy, interwoven with tea and osmanthus, somewhat vague and difficult to pinpoint. Crossing paths with another person wearing it, I'm not sure I could identify it, even though I were wearing it myself. I like perfumes like that--elusive. They make me feel like I could go anywhere unimpeded. Despite an elusive quality, LIAT with a few sprays lasts all day on me. One day recently, after applying it in the morning, I received a compliment on it around 8pm.
22nd April, 2016

Les Exceptions : Cuir Impertinent by Thierry Mugler

Rbaker's review is much the way I experience Cuir Impertinent as to notes and longevity, although I am not familiar with the Creed for comparison purposes. Lasts over ten hours and with far less applied than most other fragrances I wear. The Mugler reps claim there are considerable natural oils in CI. I have no way of verifying that except to say there are zero harsh or chemical notes in any stage of the development on my skin, something I do experience with other Muglers such as the notoriously synthetic Angel.

The notes I have found for CI are: green note, spicy notes, hay, star anise, tobacco, amber, leather. I do also get the caramel vibe.

I absolutely love this scent. Its warm and cozy components come together to create a protective aura swirling around the wearer. Started wearing it in brisk November and it feels like one could never feel cold wearing this perfume. I'm curious as to how it will fare in spring when the weather turns warm.
21st November, 2015

Santal Carmin by Atelier Cologne

Santal Carmin to me fulfils a niche different from some other sandalwoods. For a true down-to-earth sandalwood scent I go for Santal Majuscule, which to my nose smells like sandalwood I have held in my hand and inhaled. Santal Carmin is different. It is more like an idea of sandalwood that seems to hover slightly above the skin, floating around the wearer, with its supporting notes--lime, saffron, papyrus, vanilla, woods--adding a playful liveliness to the overall effect, light and airy. Yet it has good longevity. A few spritzes last all day on me.
29th June, 2015
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Rose Anonyme by Atelier Cologne

Voluptuous yet restrained

When it comes to reviews I'm not much of a note cruncher. It's more about being transported by the aroma and how a perfume makes me feel. Rose Anonyme makes me feel great. In the past perfumes with pronounced rose and patchouli notes come across on me as somewhat aggressive but Rose Anonyme does not feel aggressive at all--assertive, yes, you know it's there, but settling into a soft personal aura with a very delicious patchouli note. It is somewhat redolent of the patchouli note in Angel but whereas after a while Angel's patchouli can seem pounding and repetitive, that in Rose Anonyme seems to float in and out elusively making you want more. The oud note remains mysterious to me. I know it's in there but I'm a beginner in exploring oud. It could be that what gives Rose Anonyme a perceived ethereal quality and keeps it from being heavy is its eau-de-cologne underpinning. I am also enjoying the matching soap, which leaves a light fragrance on the skin and the scent of which I find slightly "creamier" than the juice. So far it is non-drying and of course it smells wonderful in the bath.

Pros: A niche perfume that makes itself available
Cons: Pricey, what else is new?

16th May, 2013

Beige Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Tomorrow I will be buying my sixth bottle of Beige since March of 2010, when I first started wearing it. Guess you could say I like it--read love it! I get all of the notes reported to be in there, but not always and not all on the same day. Different notes come up when they feel like it. Yesterday the gardenia was standing out, sometimes I smell the frangipani and then it can disappear for a couple of weeks before I smell it again. The aldehyde, heliotrope, vanilla and amber weave in and out, I love it when a blast of freesia appears--and so on, with the other notes as they come and go. Regarding the freesia, this is the only perfume containing a freesia note that to me actually does smell peppery like freesia.

I don't think Beige is perfect; sometimes it can smell a little plasticky in the drydown. To me it smells like an old-fashioned perfume from about 1911, composed with modern-day aromachemicals, thus the obvious synthetic notes. But I can overlook it when that happens because it is more than overbalanced by all the joyful bursts of aroma I get throughout the day and from one day--week--month--year to another.
14th May, 2011

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss by Estée Lauder

I've read a lot of reviews of Jasmine White Moss on the net and quite often it seems criticized for what it is not rather than evaluated for what it is. In today's world it's not a chypre with real oakmoss, it's not Cristalle or Miss Dior or any of a number of other perfumes, it's not a French perfume by a great French perfumer, it's not a vintage perfume, it's not an indolic jasmine scent. What it is is a citrusy, green, floral, aldehydic "modern chypre" with a lot of zest and considerably more sophistication than other mainstream perfumes on the market today, with a tip of the hat to some French chypres of the late '60s and '70s. The latter vibe is something I thought I'd never smell again in a new perfume. I doubt we'll be having many if any classic chypres coming down the pike any more, and natural jasmine is meeting a similar fate to oakmoss. Given the reality, I'm delighted to be able to enjoy a perfume of today that has some of the elements of the zesty, woody variety of chypre (as opposed to the more smooth Mitsouko variety) translated into a very uplifting and enjoyable scent that I consider among the best of today's offerings.
17th August, 2009 (last edited: 22nd June, 2011)

Eau de Cartier by Cartier

Love Eau de Cartier. It makes me feel like I'm in a cool leafy forest with violets growing at the base of the trees. It is light in the nature of its scent but it lasts all day on me, close to the skin as mentioned by Vialman. There are very few scents that still smell fresh into the drydown and this is one of them. Got some nice compliments on EdC.
02nd October, 2005

No. 19 by Chanel

No. 19 is a truly wearable green. Love the way the galbanum, iris, leather and vetiver notes unfold. (Please add vetiver to the base notes.) Edt is like a forest with sunshine filtering through the leaves; parfum is like those parts of the forest where sunshine cannot penetrate. That's my take on it anyway. Edp's notes are more blended together and not as individually discernable as in the other two forms, IMHO. Thanks for the opportunity to review and for a great website!
30th August, 2004