Perfume Reviews

Reviews by purecaramel

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Total Reviews: 478

Gold Woman by Amouage

First scenting was with an 80's sample.
First impression was "Madame Rochas in her evening gown bejeweled"
Civet,Ambergris and White Musk are blended in such a way as to support the heart's bouquet and provide a sly animalic. It is "weightier" than Contemporary formulations. More on that later.
Classic dance with Sandalwood and Rose which combined with Iris presents a Powdered Savon. Lovely!
Interesting is the topping of Muguet which offers a freshness and green nuance which in turn provides a gentle
backstop to the powder. Now the Diamonds and Pearls. This is provided by the Incense. Myrrh, for me, acts in the horizontal therefore a matte of earthy resin. The Frankincense, for me,acts in the vertical, therefore a mild Citric and ethereal airiness. The resins working together have my brain cells registering a tinkle-tinkle that brings me to a Magic Orgasmic.
A Robert masterpiece.
More later on the Contemporary Amouage formulation and a Generic oil
interpret.
Later.
Contemporary still remains as a remarkable scent. There is the Robert finesse with updated ingredients. The Synth Musk is stronger and almost throws the balance.There is a slight Ambroxan rush. The original seems to have used a quality Ambergris. Most of us oldsters will miss the original animalic. The youngsters will appreciate the lighter presentation.

The Generic Oil is very good, however lacks the studied structure of the Vintage.

Madame Rochas is a beautiful scent and Vintage Gold offers an excellent build upon the MR beauty. All formulates are Genderless to my taste.
10th September, 2020 (last edited: 11th September, 2020)

Explosions d’Emotions : Rappelle-Toi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Ah...Yummy. What a wonderful orchestrate for Gardenia. At first it may seem odd with it's peppered Gin, however the creamy Gardenia is stunning. A honeyed Sandalwood base has the effect of having the Gardenia push into an Orchid-like halo. Gardenia has a Citrus Vegetal note to cut through any cloy. The scent throws off an oily Coconut Butter.
Scrumptious semi gourmand delight.
14th August, 2020

No 50 : Civet Cat Chypre by Meleg Parfum

Big Adelehydes with requisite Citric comes in a blast. Quickly settles to the Heart of wonderful collage of Rose,
remarkable true just cut Cedar and Carrot Seed which offers a Root-like note with segue to a great Iris and Sandalwood melange reminiscent of kind of Chanel-esque romance. Nicely placed Tonka absolute with a smack of Labdanum to leather it up. Civet blended so well to render a Classic elegance.

Natural longevity of about 3-4 hours which trails off with Tonka, Iris, Sandalwood creaminess.

Lovely.
04th August, 2020 (last edited: 14th September, 2020)
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Bubblegum Chic by Heeley

Can't tell you if this has anything related to Bubblegum.
It wasn't on my skin long enough. Had to scrub, take a cold shower as my lungs screamed for Oxygen. Tuberose grease, in it's glory, smearing out the delicacy of the Jasmine.

A go away scent for me.
04th August, 2020

Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's

A classic melange that does point to a Victorian age.
It unfolds naturally through opening and heart. Rose is gorgeously presented. The whole scent is lightly painted to be a gentleman's discreet soapiness. It dries down to a babysoft amber powder.
Lovely.
31st July, 2020

Myths Woman by Amouage

Brutal opening of Narcissus and Galbanum. Carnation is totally obscured by a particularly dirty, overwhelming dusty Patchouli.Perhaps musk offers a small reprieve of softness, however the moss intertwines
to accentuate the grit in the Patch.
Much later in drydown, the scent is saved by it's remarkable beauty of the feathering of the Patch.
My objection is that I have to wade through a very dense thicket of nettles to reach that sublime moment.
Seems a little masochistic.
31st July, 2020

Joy by Jean Patou

1991 EDT.

Opens with Peach Adelhydes and full blown Jasmine with a touch of Quality Tuberose.Tiny dash of Civet to background and offers a little animalic. At times I thought a musk mixed with the Civet offered a skanky canvas, which sets a blooming, highlighted and stunning Rose. The Quality Sandalwood softens and butters. It's obvious that all ingredients are of superb quality.
Now I am ready to explore different Vintages and strengths of this Gem.
30th July, 2020

Zeste de Gingembre by Heeley

Wonderful summer scent. Ginger as heart is freshly aromatic and gently sugared. Orange Zest and Lime are less astringent than what is popular current. Pink Pepper is amped up nicely to offer a bit of weight. Cardamom? Perhaps to offer a slight spice.
Artful architecture and precise to highlight the notes natural bouquet.
Recommended!
29th July, 2020

Oud by Meleg Parfum

Mocha-ed Rose Oud. If one likes the the Coffee and Chocolate Oud of Areej
Russian Oud you may find this Meleg Oud a less dense Oud scent quietly elegant.
Vanilla at first is Boozy and sweet
suggesting Gourmand and then sets back offering more of it's natural orchid-like vegetal. It would seem a little Birch Tar is used to add a mild smoke.
Setting into place, the background is charmingly camphoured and varnished.
Rose is a light brush stroke to my nose. Nicely done.
23rd July, 2020

Oleg Cassini for Men by Oleg Cassini

This is an excellent vaguely dirty Patchouli that was outshined by Givenchy Gentleman.
Pierre Guillaume took the animalic opening from this and built a warm mammalic fuzziness in L'Ombre Fauve.
Leonard extracted a Burning Fall Leaves aspect, Masculine, in it's Pour Homme.
Recommended if you can find it.
22nd July, 2020

No. 5 Eau de Cologne by Chanel

This EDC from the 70's early 80's is more Animalic with a higher proportion of Chanel Sandalwood stock and Natural Civet. It is the scent my wife seduced me with.
When compared directly with the 80's reform introduced by Polge the difference is clear. The EDP in particular showcases his mastery in the Art of illusion, Sandalwood by Synthetic. It is very pretty, however lacks the depth and character of the earlier Vintage EDC and EDT. Polge EDP was widely available and was a Modern scent meant to increase market share and attract a younger set. Through the 90's I bought a couple of bottles for my wife and was never really satisfied with the loss of animalic.
A recent purchase of 70's EDC proves satisfying for my taste.
21st July, 2020

Note de Yuzu by Heeley

Immediately identifies as Heeley with a distinctive salty Sel Marin breath. The Mandarin's perfume true, Yuzu citrus is meditative enhanced by the bloom and vague bitterness of Grapefruit. Touched with a sprinkle of Vetiver adds a little earthy robustness.
Gourmand in that I can vision this on a white plate assembled with precision that of Thomas Keller.

A lovely scent that balances the layers of Citrus bloom ethereal.

Recommended for it's elegant purity.

Zeste de Gingembre follows with similar panache.
16th July, 2020

Iris de Nuit by Heeley

Like many Heeley's, I find the cleanliness and precision attractive. There is a concentration on a structure that presents an uncluttered
Floral beauty. Iris is centre certainly, however it does melange gently into the other notes in such a way that hints at a transparency and yet a dream-like fuzz.
Drydown offers a soft powdered soap.
Very nice however I prefer touch of Castoreum and Cinnamon Violets of Cuir Pleine Fleur.
15th July, 2020
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Sagamore by Lancôme

If you can find some of this,in Vintage, at an acceptable price, grab it. Sagamore follows a similar path as Bois du Portugal, Nicolai New York (and Intense), Chanel Pour Monsieur. The bloom of the heart is a little softer and dry down is closest to 80's Vintage PM.
It runs a little warmer than all of these.
For me Pour Monsieur Vintage 80's and back edges out all the others by it's timelessness.
The others tend to be for the Older set.
07th July, 2020

Film Noir by Ayala Moriel

At first I thought Russian Oud,however this is a Darker
Chocolat and a smoother scent on the palate. Myrrh is balanced nicely with the Patchouli which overtones a little smokiness.
Beautiful, sensuous delight!
06th July, 2020

Vetiver Racinettes by Ayala Moriel

Any person who has worked with moist Clay will recognize the perfume that canvasses this scent. Cardamom and Ginger brightens in the opening and offers a peaceful incense expanse in the heart which offers an almost sedative like soothe.
It is then I note a palate cleanse of Lime leaf.
Layered Root and Grass of Vetiver
Bases this gem.
Elegant Masculine with a Parfum like
close to the skin luxury.
Recommended to those who enjoy a natural unforced scenting.
The perfumer sent along a couple of squares of luxurious sweet Lokum.
Lovely!
06th July, 2020

Hanae Mori (new / Butterfly) by Hanae Mori

Berry Candyfloss made for little girls.
The millionth Angel theme scent based in WAC caramel that has me running away.
Trouble is this cheap base is found in shampoos everywhere. It is depressing.
Go away.
05th July, 2020

Ganymede by Marc-Antoine Barrois

Laundry Musk. Get the excellent layered Diptyque Fleur de Peau for this kind of thing.
05th July, 2020

B683 by Marc-Antoine Barrois

Contemporary WAC nonsense amplified by Ambroxin. Bland landscape results in what amounts to all style and little substance. The nose needs a little time with Geza Schoen to understand the Art. Ganymede shows a little more promise, however proves little more than Laundry Musk.
Nope.
05th July, 2020

Nawab of Oudh by Ormonde Jayne

Lies down initially like my Trumper's Sandalwood deodorant stick which is essentially a Rose Santal. No Mysore here, however, perhaps a note derived from Camwood.
Nawab develops into a complex Santal of great Beauty. Oudh would be an abstract thought to my nose.
One of those scents, much like Black Gold, that could be a standard for those unused to the hard callous of physical labour.
I like to wear this elegant scent on my blemished and scarred corpus as it' bouquet has me dancing with the Gods.

Like Black Gold there is AC stabilizer which can cause minor piercing however the complex structure soothes.
Careful with application as these have extraordinary next day longevity.
04th July, 2020 (last edited: 05th July, 2020)

Noa Noa by Otto Kern

I have to agree with HOP, remarkable sleeper from 1990. The Citrus start is quite interesting. Grapefruit was being played with during this period along with overdosed Calone. Not Noa Noa with it's Adelhydic Citrus start, Floral bouquet bloom would have me classify it Floral Chypre, however it's fold of Coumarin into Benzoin resin, together with the the Aromatics
sometimes has me scenting Fougere with whispers of an Oriental simil Old Spice. In the end it offers what my nose always craves which is a light powder and soapy matt that has me think more of an Aromatic Chypre.
Of course some Sandal and Rose offer it a soft Savon also.
Lovely.
02nd July, 2020

Side Glance by Anjou

A striking floral reminiscent of the striking complexity of Patou's Joy, 1000 etc. Remarkable heart of quality
Rose,Jasmine,Tuberose,Violet and Lilac.
A solid base of Oakmoss, Animalics, Benzoin.
Adelhydic Peachy Citrus opens and counterpoints the rather heavy base.
It is then I identify grassy Vetiver and a charming breath of Violet intertwined with Heliotrope.
Trail off of Powdery Iris.
Wonderful Symphonic of Patou's gems.

Have I mentioned Striking!
29th June, 2020

Breathless by Avon

Opening is quite literally a blast of Incense.
The heart with a sweet floral Jasmine is most prominent. Orchid may be a hard wear for many men, however the Patchouli trail brings it back to neutral. Carrier may be a standard Sandal enhanced with a Quality Synth.
If you are OK with the sweetness of Lutens scents (and I Do) this will be a Charmer, in Vintage.

My better half thinks it stinks and I scent like an "Old Hippy" Hah!

From a Lanier Nip.
28th June, 2020

Midnight by Dorothy Gray

Yes,
Think of Jubilation 25 with a dose of Oakmoss. It shares an almost stinging opening, however is less honeyed and damp. Instead of a Cumin there may be
Spiciness of Carnation.
High quality citrus and whoa! gorgeous Rose have this on my list has me in search of more than a touch sample.
Beautiful Vintage Chypre.

From Lanier Nip.
26th June, 2020

Santal Royale by Ensar Oud

Opens with heady Camphorus breath. It dies down however remains in the background throughout the journey. Fresh citrus leads a bouquet ethereal with a mesmerizing cloud of woodiness. Although it follows the line of Diptyque Tam Dao it leaves the same rather lifeless.
First rate Sandalwood.
26th June, 2020

Conflict by Blanchard

Burst of stunningly beautiful Lilac that melds with a Neroli honeydripped garden atmosphere. Background of spicy greenness that provides an interesting witchiness ala Lauder and attractiveness waxy similar to Fazzolari. Mild application of Jasmine airiness lightens and provides a little Petroleum.
It's juiciness lasts on my skin for about 3 hours. Remarkable for Cologne.

From a Lanier nip.
22nd June, 2020

Portrayal Woman by Amouage

Another monstrous Tuberose concoction.
Someone compares to Lutens Sarassins.
Uh,No.

If the Lutens is Jasmine "Heaven in a Bottle".

This Amouage is Tuberose "Suffocating gasses of Hell".
22nd June, 2020

Tweed by Fine Fragrances & Cosmetics

Feminine? Pfft!
Genderless to my nose.
Boozy Oriental with Woody Chypre overtones.
It's Floral heart Jasmine, Ylang and Blossom is blended so perfectly into a remarkable resinous base that at times it has me forgetting it's structured as Chypre. Moss, Dusty Patch, Vetiver and Bergamot and the resulting Savon are the tell.
Wood? Oh yes! Sandalwood butters it all and draws it back to to a spicy Oriental.
I, absolutely, Love, this scent.
The depth and dimension of overall accord rings the little bells of pleasure in my brain.
I will own this soon.

From a Lanier Nip that I expect is the Lentheric.
29th April, 2020

Devastating by Anjou

Holy Carnations Batman!
This Beautiful Chypre opens with a blast of skunky adelhydes. Devastatingly Dazzling, Dizzying and Divine.

Based with a Cedar-y Sandalwood, heavy Oakmoss, the (Clove-ish} Spicy Heart together with opening Carnation had me reminiscent of the infamous Lauder Oriental, Youth Dew.

The Amber is carved in naturally, not so plodding and sweet as the Lauder. I notice a whisper of LOV that suggests a progesterone-ic green-ness.

Baby Powder in the Trail-off is, for me, always comforting.

It's greatest charm is a balance that remains to the dry without sweetness and cloy.

Recommended for those who are drawn to Spicy Chypres.

Sample from a Lanier Nip.


29th April, 2020

Strategy by Mary Chess

Rose and Sandalwood, quality of which provides for a rich oriental Soapy trail. Jasmine provides a little funk and bloom however the Musk and animalics are blended in a unison most attractive to offer a patina. The Civet offers it's poopy Rose garden. The Ambergris offers a sense of natural puffed ocean breeze. The Castoreum offers it's sweet Leathery bitterness.
Never rude as the Shocking or aromatic
heated "Soiled Panties" of Salome.

In tone it is reminiscent of a Guerlain almost a Jicky without the Myrrh stickiness.
Unlike the Guerlain, natural ingredients present short longevity although the Rose Sandalwood soapy trail is most pleasant.
Sample from a delightful Lanier Nip.
EDT I expect. Love to taste the perfume strength.

Time to make an offer.

28th April, 2020