Perfume Reviews

Reviews by mattandhiscat

Total Reviews: 231

Jules by Christian Dior

This is for the latest formula in 2020, opens extremely bright and energetic, citrus and civet with some pine touches from fir and a slight green organic feel, it has that classic French chypre style that could come across as dated to some people, if you appreciate classic perfumery tho you will really enjoy Jules, after an hour a bit of dark leather creeps in and keeps it well balanced and stable on the skin for many hours, the more I try Jules the more I fall for it, there's a lot going on in the note list, but it's a rather simple bright chypre that has been executed with intelligence and artistry, the colour of the juice resembles the actual smell to me.
12th October, 2020

Royal Oud by Creed

When I first encountered Royal Oud I felt completely underwhelmed, I expected some extravaganza of royalty, elephants bursting out of the bottle, drums being banged and a banquet of delicious flavour....ok so that was completely far fetched but the hype this fragrance seems to carry is incredible. What I got was something very muted and muffled, a woody muffled peppery thing I thought. 15mls into my bottle and five or six wearings later I completely get it, this is understated class ..the sort of fragrance that is a silent killer..those close quarter meet and greet ones that leave a lasting impression of class. I get a velvety cedar over pepper with a genius twist of angelica ..almost creating a slight liquorice vibe , the small amount of oud creates a chalky feel yet earthy at the same time, it's such a tiny amount but that small amount makes the fragrance, it's so clever really and these sort of creations are not developed under pressure from executives breathing sales pressure down the perfumers throats , they are artistic and almost poetic, Royal Oud has been allowed time to be perfected and this will show in its development and journey on the skin, excellent fragrance with very good performance (my bottle became a bit stronger over time).
07th October, 2020

Rose Omeyyade by Atelier Des Ors

Sweet Turkish rose accentuated by rasberry and a bit of caramel , it's a good quality opening in line with many other niche sweet rose scents, there is just enough darkness lurking underneath to help it feel balanced and interesting, spice and it's many listed woods achieve this, although I can't pick out which as they are cleverly muffled by the sweetness and rose accord, I suppose you could say it's well blended. Beautiful presentation and performance is fantastic, around ten hours and 4 hours projection with good sillage.
18th September, 2020
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Dior Homme Eau de Toilette (2020 version) by Christian Dior

When you get round to trying something that has been slated, ridiculed and wrote off it automatically becomes a nothing to lose situation, smelling this for the first time i couldn't help but smile. The opening is quiet uplifting, bergamot is rounded out with the slightest touch of elemi to prevent it becoming jarring, the pink pepper also adds a bit of punch, through to the mid there is a huge '2020' amount of Iso e super and something that is causing a slight powdery effect ..maybe iris or violet, this gives it a slightly soapy bathroom feel, the vetiver in the base tho keeps it from being feminine, anything else in the base is washed out by a pleasent white musk. This is a futuristic fragrance given the amount of laboratory synthetics used and being used so well. ..2020 is blended to a high standard but it loses marks for originality because of the many ormonde Jayne fragrances that use this technique of blending iso e super into fresh ingredients. My true qualm tho is the packaging, by all means call it 'Homme 2020' ...I get that's modern yet delicate and metrosexual but they could of at least changed the presentation.
15th September, 2020

Russian Tea by Masque

Firstly I have to say this is high quality and deep no question as to why it's priced highly..secondly I question myself I want to smell like tea ? Do other people enjoy me smelling of tea ? ..there's more going on, a beautiful mint ..some deep leather's all very exciting but tea ?? I'm not sure to be honest if that's a great smell in perfumery.
12th September, 2020

17/17 Richwood by Xerjoff

Not a fan of this regardless of cost and prestige, I picked a bottle up blind for a ridiculous price on facebook and was keen to like it, feeling that I've got the steal of the century. On initial spray I could immediately detect the quality, it's certainly showcasing the best ingredients with to my nose the the rose absolute being the most impressive...but it all feels at odds with itself , the bergamot clashes with the rose and patchouli to give off a vintage feel with a slight medicine vibe, I have to grin and bare this for at least two hours before the vanilla and tiny amounts of sandlewood came to its rescue ..6 hours in and it's fairly pleasent ..quite sophisticated and being driven by the patchouli dry down but I've been through 6 hours of something unpleasant to my nose to get here ...not my bag really but it is obviously a high quality fragrance.
08th September, 2020

Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel

I've always enjoyed BDC but its never been a love or a full appreciation, I found the profile a little too safe and predictable, the EDP tho has some classy darker aspects I really enjoy. I recently picked up a bottle of the Parfum for a good price and entered into things with extremely low expectations, well this version has given me a huge suprise, this is absolutely top drawer Perfumery and probably the greatest blue themed fragrance I've ever tried. The bleu DNA is certainly still intact but it's much deeper and ambery, with a silky sandlewood that may be synthetic but it's a lesson in synthetics, the blending is incredibly smooth and Olivier Polge should feel very proud, the fragrance that arguably sparked a genre of fragrances has reached perfection here with depth, blending and likeability. In the mid there is a slight ambery sweetness that would help keep this suitable for any season and occasion, the base is all about a classy soapyness that will linger on a suit or shirt for many many hours, I get great projection and longivity which also adds to the satisfaction of the fragrance as a whole, well done Chanel.
05th September, 2020

Larmes du Désert by Atelier Des Ors

Wow what a beautiful take on the Desert themed amber that is a genre now starting to gather pace in the niche world after LADDM . Atelier des ors version tho has literally blown me away, it is so well thought out from top to bottom and brimming with luxury, if you have tried jubilation 25 then you'll be in a similar ballpark with this, Larmes tho is a touch brighter with the citrus notes adding great elevation in the early stages and it performs better, incense isn't overly pronounced but definitely there and obvious, it blends into the composition with the other woods and flickers of Cypress to bring a touch of masculinity to the fragrance, I really don't feel any dryness in this as many people have been reporting, on my skin the amber tones and the resins add a delicate sweetness that keeps it very approachable but at the same time royal and luxurious. This has been my most favourite incense and amber discovery to date, mainly due to my love of cypress and galbanum, Larmes appears to have bridged two separate genres into one fragrance perfectly.
03rd August, 2020 (last edited: 04th August, 2020)

Riviera Lazuli by Atelier Des Ors

Quite a revelation in fragrance and blending here, all at once I am are blasted with natural citrus, salt and cream in perfect sequence, it's like a genuine holiday in a spray ..well done atelier des ors you've perfected the soliel genre in all departments.
01st August, 2020

La Fumée Arabie by Miller Harris

A well put together dry incense creation with a slightly animalic oud and some cumin to keep things exotic (but not too much body odour smell), there are some flecks of vanilla and rose but hardly detectable, just enough to stop it being overly serious. Overall the main theme is incense and cedar with more woody nuances from is suitable for all seasons due to its dry character, good performance and a fairly sophisticated sillage, it is similar to a lot of woody incense fragrances ..but one of the better ones I've tried.
25th July, 2020

1872 Twist Basil by Clive Christian

Fantastic summer citrus and basil creation that feels luxurious and natural, in the opening I get a lime, bergamot and petit grain of the highest order and in deep concentration, these three elements have been blended to a smooth pleasing ride that leads into a herbal mid of basil and mint ..again all very realistic and well balanced, the base feels like a blend of sweet flowers and musks with all of the above to leave a highly elegant but approachable fragrance, beautiful presentation and attention to detail, nothing new here either but it's all very well done, reminds me a lot of Xerjoff fiero.
10th July, 2020

Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

Not what I expected from a Jo Malone fragrance which tend to be light and ethereal, this one is dark and rich with great projection. In the opening I get a lavender that has been muffled by Tonka, it's an interesting start that immediately feels captivating, I'm in the date night mind set with this fragrance, it's very sensual and sexy. I get a bitterness in the dry down and I pick up on some hints of almond and a touch of myrrh, the star of the show tho is the Tonka which feels as luxurious as the famous Guerlain Tonka Imperiale, the overall quality and blending here is fabulous and well worth the money. I think this is easily suited to any gender and best worn in winter by a log fire preferably.
10th July, 2020 (last edited: 09th July, 2020)

Signature pour Homme by Zaharoff

I don't like to have more than one masculine barbershop style fragrance in my collection, reason being is when I have more they seem to fight each other in my head, I get picky and i dissect them against each other..there have been many greats over the years and I think Signature is one of those. I've just finished a bottle of Bracken man which I thoroughly enjoyed but it's time for a change and Signature will be my next option..I've had a number of samples to conclude that decision, the blending is extraordinary and nothing in the mix feels out of place, beautiful soapy lavender with a slight powdery vibe, there are some dark twists in the base that enhance the feeling of quality, it's really difficult to pick each note out individually due to how smooth and well blended Signature feels, it also has a slight masculine retro vibe that gives a respectable nod to the barbershop classics, seems to project very well in the first hour and then lingers for a good amount of time.
03rd July, 2020
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Oud Stars : Alexandria Orientale by Xerjoff

Beautiful dark and cosy flanker to the original with the lavander dialled right down and in its place brown and rustic notes have been incorporated. I get a real autumnal vibe from Orientale, brown decaying leaves, the pinch of the frosty air and warming vanilla laced drinks, maybe a tiny hint of toffee apple and a leather chesterfield all playing second fiddle to a powerful fumey oud. Excellent performance that doesn't scream or fill a room but if someone is in your space they will certainly smell you for many hours, obviously more sprays could achieve a bigger impact but that would be risky with a scent that plays a seductive game perfectly.
30th June, 2020

Hayat by Al Kimiya

Orange and lavender, maybe a few spices heavily wrapped in a slightly faecal smelling natural oud, a big dollop of damp earthy patchouli creates a fabulous masculine dry down. Hayat surprised me given its first half hour, it's an almost sweet and sour opening and at this point it could have drove over a cliff edge but everything settles down beautifully, it evolves from Conan the barbarian into a civilised board room meeting. The journey is more complexed than you first think from initial wearings, the scent becomes more and more sophisticated over an 8-10 hour development, excellent Perfumery with a well thought out journey.
17th June, 2020 (last edited: 23rd June, 2020)

Platinum Égoïste by Chanel

A very easy going fragrance in the same ball park as Creed Himalaya, musky metallic and clean, Platinum has a creamy lavender feel in the opening that almost sways things into barbershop territory but never fully lands there and ends up becoming cleanly and soapy, finally resting on a metal and white soap vibe, overall this is a great all rounder that smells good anytime anywhere.
12th June, 2020

Sultan Vetiver by Nishane

Rooty vetiver bomb with good amounts of absinthe or anise and a bit of bergamot freshness in the top, it feels like a vetiver lover's dream with high quality vetivers of all kinds in large concentrations, it reminds me a great deal of Guerlain vetiver but on steroids and darker, I'd imagine it would layer perfectly with the guerlain and you could then create a vetiver combo of any potency because Sultan vetiver is beastly. There is a leather note in the dry down that gives Sultan a shoe polish vibe mixed with the roots of vetiver to create a British garden feel, creosoting fences ..fixing the lawnmower and uprooting greenery, a serious vetiver fragrance.
05th June, 2020

Égoïste / L'Égoïste by Chanel

I smell egoiste on the back of my hand in a daze, I literally want to shake the hand of the perfumer, this sort of perfumery is an art form. In current formulation I smell a freshly peeled tangerine rolled in beautiful soft rose petals and sprinkled with some spices like cinnamon and maybe a touch of clove, I find it difficult to pick out any sandlewood of note worthy strength or quality which is unfortunate but what's left is ethereal and beautiful all the same, this is classic French Perfumery of the highest detail, on a par with things like habit rouge and the original Dior homme edt. I've noticed Fahrenheit in 2020 formulation has had a bit of an awakening recently and smells very close to the vintage with that gasoline leathery DNA being centre stage, please Chanel give egoiste a bit of a boost.
04th June, 2020

Aubres by Xerjoff

Extremely elegant summer creation, not a screamer..more a warm glow across the skin for many hours, I get a high quality lemon first and foremost..of similar quality to the sparkly opening in renaissance with a touch of basil that almost tricks you into thinking of mint..the blending is exceptional because it isn't all about lemon (I was thinking it would be after a few minutes), a few hours in the basenotes reveal some incense and balmy resins with a slight touch of patchouli ..maybe up until now this is Xerjoffs only classical inspired citrus along with Fiero..Aubres is almost a fougere in some ways but then again it's quite unique, great perfumery tho for sure.
30th May, 2020

HOS N.003 by House of Sillage

An excellent marine fragrance that uses synthetics in a masterful way, this is how it should be done with synthetics and a great advert for the use of them, think of a designer marine fragrance and somehow make it smoother and more clear, I get a bunch of herbs in this and the sage in particular adds to the volcanic feel. Not sure what sort of ambergris is used here but that also adds to the depth and realism of the harbour smell..this is how I'd imagine a Maison Francis kurkdjian take on the aquatic theme .. artificial, intelligent and brilliant, Zealot is absolutely right ...this does have a nod to the Avon creations.
11th May, 2020 (last edited: 17th July, 2020)

Oud Wood Intense by Tom Ford

Ultra brooding and masculine, smells like creosote and dark leather, maybe some cypress trees swaying in the background and a drop dead gorgeous streak of castoreum that keeps it unapologetically dangerous and brutish..I absolutely love this, I traded in my 50ml and bought a 100ml instead ..not cheap but you get one hell of a beastly fragrance. I've always enjoyed Anteaus so the step up to this wasn't too difficult, they are slightly similar in that they share leather and castoreum but oud wood intense is certainly a more 'intense' dark variation, I'm also reminded of Roja Doves Black Tier exclusive which is much more similar in terms of brute leather masculinity. Longivity around 12 hours and projection is at least half of that ..try before you buy tho as it is an acquired taste to enjoy fragrances that are this harsh and masculine.
21st April, 2020

APOM pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Feels like a good quality summer floral fragrance, neroli and orange blossom mainly..drifts into washing powder territory at times but in the end the natural smelling orange blossom gives it a realistic feel and keeps it feeling fairly artisan. Somedays I really like it and others days I'm a bit meh, it does seem to be fairly linear if you forget that the basenotes are some sort of amber accord rather than the sweet smell of blossom. All in all I think this may suit a person that enjoys countryside breaks and gardening.
06th April, 2020

Shooting Stars : Uden Overdose by Xerjoff

Crowd pleasing and easy to wear, feels like a semi gourmand with a nice change up to a slight aquatic in the dry down. Imagine a slightly caramelized lemon with a tiny pinch of coffee and tobbaco in the opening, once this settles then the musk's begin to appear and then a crowd pleasing aquatic overtone comes through to keep it fresh and slightly generic. The quality of notes are high and the blending is excellent, this will appeal to someone looking for a safe summer Xerjoff and it will garner compliments.
04th April, 2020 (last edited: 26th June, 2020)

Cavour 1 by Xerjoff

Opens with quince, berries and peach (the same quince that's used in casamorratti dolce amalfi)..feels so luxurious and delicious with a supporting rose and vanilla, all high quality and gorgeous. In the base is a dark chocolate patchouli that glues everything together to create a truelly stunning gourmand..never gets cloying or too sweet and lingers on the skin for many hours. Cavour 1 is a scent you can't stop smelling as it is so addictive and realistic. I feel that this creation shares a few things from jtc More than words, dolce amalfi and noir de noir but of the 3 this is my favourite..the balance is absolutely perfect.
30th March, 2020

Ensemble by Sospiro

Such a pleasing opening from the citrus melange, pure and calming, drifting into some peppery sandlewood and all rounded out with a beautiful vanillic musky base which supports the whole structure. The fragrance is ethereal and light but stays present, I'm reminded of things like reflection man and initio rehab, those fragrances are hyped to death but ensemble has slipped under the radar, a great sensual summer option, perfectly unisex and a fragrance I'd consider taking on vacation.
29th February, 2020

Aoud Exclusif by Mancera

I've spent some time with Aoud Exclusif and after 20mls I can only conclude that this is a brilliant release by Mancera. The opening is incredibly dense and heavy which reflects in the oil concentration, initially I smell rose/oud and spices, there is a cumin note at first that I took some time to adjust too, luckily it isn't dominant and just adds to the masculinity, it bounces off the leather that peek's through the transition into the mid, the oud in this isn't too challenging but is slightly medicinal. Once your into the mid there is an ambery feel of the highest order that seems like today to be the leading accord blowing its trumpet with the rest of the mentioned notes closely followed by. I feel like this fragrance is very complexed and for that reason I never get bored, some days it's all about the amber, others it's about the leather or oud and I'm constantly enjoying the changes on my skin (12+ hours), the other great thing about this fragrance is the value for money, it's a great journey throughout the day and excellent quality, a 120ml bottle would last many years in rotation.
20th February, 2020

Epic Man by Amouage

Epic indeed, what a fragrance by Amouage, and as the name suggests you feel well put together wearing this, it has a masculine regal vibe that is so special when you first try it, I imagine this being worn by a high society type of person in a Rolls Royce. In the opening I detect Francincense coupled with pepper and geranium which gives it a green cold feel and slightly spikey, then incense plays along with a touch of oud (not heavy tho, just the signature amouage hint) and an expertly blended castoreum and leather, everything is of high quality and blending. The castoreum adds to the old school feel and kind of makes it slightly aloof in a good way, a quick sniff and it's a very green soapy style, but leave your nose there and it's much more complexed and intriguing. Good/average performance on my skin about 7 hours in total with 2/3 hours projection.
03rd February, 2020

Mandala by Masque

When first applied I'm hit with a fresh and pure approach, almost like clean cotton, a sea breeze but highly concentrated and very mood enhancing. It becomes really evident that the ambergris used here is of high quality or a revelation in the laboratory, either way the first hour into this fragrance sets a very tranquil and clean vibe, then the transition into the mid reveals incense ..woody incense that brings me back into the shore, I'm then in a church over looking the sea and everything around me is calm and assured. I'm reminded of things like 40 knots or zoologist squid ..this isn't setting out tho to be obviously aquatic just creates a religious sea view to me personally. I get 24 hours on my skin and could still smell it after a shower.
28th January, 2020

Plum Japonais by Tom Ford

Very cute and seductive, works well for date night, sweet plum (not overly sweet), balmy and smooth with dark undertones that elevate it from ever smelling cheap and common to something quite sophisticated ...however I could see this in the signature line rather than the more challenging private blend ethos. It is an enjoyable fragrance and to own a bottle would be a nice option but for me there are lots of other options to explore.
25th January, 2020

Carlisle by Parfums de Marly

I've only ever owned Habdan from pdm, which I really liked but sold it due to the way it performed on my skin (low sillage and projection). Luckily tho parfums de Marley have perfected things with Carlisle, although not the same scent it does share many facets from habdan and things like Herod and oajan. In the opening I get a beautiful citrus/apple soaked wood with hints of sweet vanilla and spice, then this leads into a leathery tobacco accord not too dissimilar to the structure and aroma in Mancera Red tobbaco, then it's creamy woods and slight ambery touches with all of the above. Carlisle tho is a lot less less obnoxious and better blended to my nose than Red tobacco's a wonderful comforting 10 hours on my skin and a real pleasure to own in the colder months.
22nd January, 2020