Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

Total Reviews: 405

Cuir de Chine by Les Indémodables

Mmm...I'm really enjoying the opening of Cuir de Chine by Le Inemodables. The osmanthus as mentioned is an apricot like suede that is the main player from the opening. There is a green tobacco leaf as well as a slight floral from the jasmine, but it's extremely well balanced and I could definitely wear this year round. An excellent fragrance overall, just brilliant.
30th July, 2021

Chypre Rouge by Serge Lutens

Wearing Chypre Rouge for the first time. Fille en Aiguilles this ain't. While I absolutely love Fille en Aiguilles, Chypre Rouge is a pass for me. The opening smells like fruit punch with the smallest whisper of something aromatic. I'm a huge conifer lover and I can't attribute the aromatic note to pine as it's called out in the opening notes of Chypre Rouge, but there is something, greenish going on behind the fruit punch accord. This is a strange fragrance. I do need to give it more time before commenting more, but this is my first impression...disappointing.
13th July, 2021

Hasunoito by Di Ser

Hasunoito smells good...but it is gone so quickly I just can't get behind it. Smells virtually like a jasmine soloflore to me. If wearing a fragrance that costs a premium but only lasts 30 minutes max is your jam, then Di Ser is the house for you. I absolutely love Kazehikaru, and Tsuki is also one I enjoy as well, but I think I could stop with those two and be just fine.
18th May, 2021
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Nouveau Monde by Louis Vuitton

Rose Oud fragrance that's well blended. I'm not feeling this one however. There is a sweetness that isn't working for me. I do love some gourmand fragrances, so it's not because it's sweet per se, but it's the particular sweetness I'm smelling here. Maybe it's the saffron note that I'm not liking in this blend. Not sure but this ones a pass for me.
24th April, 2021

Orage by Louis Vuitton

Two thumbs way up for Orage by Louis Vuitton. This fragrance has a unique edge to it that I definitely need in my collection. The vetiver, iris, patchouli combo gives it a spiciness that is also smooth at the same time. The citrus in the opening is fleeting, but the blend of the other listed notes is just excellent. and brings the spiciness with a greeness and a petrichor, atmospheric quality. I really like this one a lot. I would like a little more projection for the price and it becomes a skin sent faster than I would like, but from a scent profile standpoint, Orage is one I want a FB of. Excellent fragrance IMO.
24th April, 2021

Sun Song by Louis Vuitton

Thumbs up for Sun Song...but not two thumbs up at this early point in my experience with it. This reminds me more of Richard James Savile Row than it does of Tom Ford's Neroli Portofino. Sun Song has what I call a dryer sheet vibe to it. Yes, it is fresh, but there is a synthetic fresh feel to it IMO. I will say that there is also a nice neroli note ghosting around as well, and as with all of the Louis Vuitton fragrances I've tried, SS is extremely well blended. I think I actually prefer Afternoon Swim's oranges and salt presence over Sun Song so far, but I've also learned that I need to give a fragrance some time before coming to a firm opinion. The current Louis Vuitton bottle presentation looks so amazing. In fact, they may be my favorite bottles that I've seen so far.
24th April, 2021

Afternoon Swim by Louis Vuitton

Afternoon Swim brings to my mind Tom Ford's Mandarino d' Amalfi. But while the Tom Ford has a boat load of listed notes including civet, I smell only oranges and salt in Afternoon Swim. Honestly, I haven't worn the TF Mandarino d' Amalfi for a long time and never remember smelling civet or half of the listed notes in it, but I do remember smelling oranges and salt as I do in Afternoon Swim. This fragrance is very enjoyable. It's smooth and even though there is a salty note, it isn't screechy like so many salty aquatics out there. It doesn't project for a long time, but it is a summer fresh fragrance. Based on that fact, it seems overpriced to me for what it is. I'd buy a bottle if I could get it for a deal...but Louis Vuitton doesn't "do" deals it appears. Still, a very nice summer fragrance and one I'd wear often if I owned it. The bottle presentation for Afternoon Swim is also just stunning.
22nd April, 2021 (last edited: 24th April, 2021)

Red Musc by Mad et Len

Red Musc is an instant love for me. Amazingly fresh, but with just a hint of earthyness that while not actually smelling like, still brings to my mind the thought of the red dirt prevalent in desert locations near hoodoos and naturally formed arches. There is a slight spice smell that could almost be attributed to cinnamon...but not quite. This fragrance brings to me a sense of well being as I feel like I smell fresh and very nice. It is a skin scent a little more quickly than I'd like, but I almost feel that it still projects for other people sort of like Molecule 01 projects more for those around you than it does for you personally...which is okay too because I've had several complements from Red Musc today. I don't wear fragrances to receive compliments. I wear them for myself. But, it's nice to know that something you're wearing smells good to those around you as well. Two thumbs up for Red Musc!
30th March, 2021

Kurokami by Di Ser

Rose...big rose...but with a sparkle from grapefruit is the opening. The varnish like presence of rosewood is also evident in this interesting opening as well. The overall effect is almost candy like, but just almost. Kurokami doesn't actually drift into the candy isle, but stays in the fragrance department...but the fragrance department of a Japanese niche fragrance establishment. I really like it! I've been working my way through the Di Ser line and I've got to say that I'm really enjoying the ride. Every one I've tried is incredibly well constructed as well as sheer and shimmering with an overall unisex vibe that I feel could be worn by anyone that wanted to. These are all natural fragrances so their longevity is not great but other than that I love the house aesthetic. Yasuyuki Shinohara is such a talented perfumer and I'm thoroughly enjoying his fine work. Two thumbs up.
21st March, 2021

L'Humaniste by Frapin

Mmm...excellent, polished barbershop fragrance smells like a much nicer version of Platinum Egoiste. Very smooth and polished. Caused me to keep smelling my wrist while driving which isn't something I usually do while on the freeway, but L'Humaniste invoked a comforting fume that was quite enjoyable. The longevity as mentioned isn't great, but this is one that would wear well in a white shirt and tie event where you don't want to project a great deal anyway. Very fresh, very wearable fragrance that I'll be getting a bottle of in time. Nice job by Frapin on this one.
20th March, 2021

1270 by Frapin

Blah. 1270 is a big disappointment. Candied Oranges, Coca, Coffee, Grape, Plum, Spices? Nowhere to be found. There is a 30 second burst of pineapple followed by a synthetic wood accord that I can't abide. I've come to hate synthetic wood accords and this fragrance has a pronounced one. In my mind I was hoping for something Serge Lutenesque with this one, but it's far from that and is unfortunately a mediocre fragrance at best and an outright fail at worst. This is a fail for me personally but others might enjoy it more than I have. Two thumbs down.
20th March, 2021

Kote by Slumberhouse's been a long time coming to actually smell Kote. I loved the note description of "Clementine rubbed onto Teak Wood that is covered by Pine Needle Resin droplets with fresh tobacco leaves". Josh Lobb's description of this fragrance really caught my attention and I wanted to smell it for many years but haven't been able to until now thanks to a very nice fellow Basenotes friend. As far as the actual fragrance goes, this doesn't smell at all like I thought it would based on that wonderful description I mentioned above.

This begins with a very short ghost of a possible clementine note...more like a sweet melange of syrupy sweetness that is undistinguishable as anything citrus, but this stuff is 10 years old and is from a small sample dabber, so of course the citrus would be the first thing to change dramatically. The main player along with the sweet syrupy note,(which reminds me just slightly of the cherry pie filling note I get from Baikal Gris by Areej Le Dore), is a coconutty note that also shows up in Baque by Slumberhouse. In fact, Kote reminds me just a tiny bit of Baque, however Baque is more tobacco heavy and feels more like a finished product than Kote does.

There is a woodiness to Kote, but I was hoping to be able to distinguish the wood as teak, and it's pretty indistinct to my nose. As Kote dries down there is a pretty noticeable dose of vanilla as well and it just sort of gets smoother in the far dry down as it looses some of the coconut vibe, and the sweet syrup subsides.

I was so hopeful that Josh was going to revisit Kote a few years ago when he said he was going to, but of course that never happened. If he would create Kote again and make it smell just like his original note description, I'd be very excited to get a bottle or two. I think his original idea is a great one and if the execution came out like that idea it would be an excellent fragrance in my mind. At least it sure sounds like one to me.
18th March, 2021

For Your Love by Mizensir

I really do like For Your Love by Alberto Morillas' Mizensir. I'm a big fan of raspberry fragrances depending on their compositions. For Your Love has been compared to Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP, but they smell quite different to me, especially in their opening notes. Both do have a noticeable raspberry, but the BR540 has a mix of saffron that makes it much different than FYL. Both fragrances are textbook examples of the use of synthetic compositions that are done extremely well. For Your Love in it's far dry down does leave it's clean opening and mids into a slightly "dirty" for want of a better word dry down with it's synthetic ambergris mixed with patchouli, but it has an overall cleaner vibe to me than BR540. Happy to have this one in my collection as it's a scent profile that I enjoy. Nice job Alberto!
24th February, 2021
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L'Homme Menthe by Roger & Gallet

A chemical stew of a fragrance...doesn't smell like the three notes listed to me. Two thumbs down.
20th February, 2021

Boreal by Pineward Perfumes

Boreal is the conifer lovers Eau de Cologne. It is piney, fresh, and wonderful! The mint note is blended perfectly with the pine needle resin and is so refreshing. I plan to bring a small sprayer bottle of Boreal with me throughout the days that I wear it to keep refreshing myself as it wears down. That's not to say that it doesn't have good longevity and sillage because it does, just at an Eau de Cologne strength, which fits it's character perfectly. This lasts around 5 hours on my skin before I feel the need to re-apply. When Pineward released Boreal and I was able to get my hands on a sample initially and then a full bottle, I realized that Nick had captured what I had hoped for from Dasein Perfumes Winter Green but didn't get. Boreal is worth every penny and then some...a true conifer lovers delight.

Edit: If I could give this stuff a 20/10 I'd do it. I love it that fresh and incredible. Boreal may be my favorite coniferous fragrance overall because it makes me feel so happy when I smell it. I love Fanghorn, Bindebole, Murkwood as much, but they are different moods for sure. Boreal is happiness bottled.
18th February, 2021 (last edited: 10th July, 2021)

Fanghorn by Pineward Perfumes

Fanghorn is a revelation for coniferous fragrance lovers. It's my new reference point by which I judge all of my other conifer fragrances and I own quite a few. I've been on the hunt for the best coniferous fragrance available since the end of 2014. I wore Polo beginning in 1983 and the original Polo had an amazing pine note that brought me such happiness that when it was ultimately reformulated, the joy of that pine note was taken away. Life being what it is, I didn't focus on that loss for many years, but eventually I realized how much I wanted the find the perfect coniferous fragrance and so I've been searching for the last six years and discovering many wonderful fragrances along the way. I can now say that finding Fanghorn has become the culmination of that search. Nick Nilsson has captured the most wonderful conifer experience I've had. Fanghorn is marvelous beyond words. If you love conifer needle resin like I do, then you can't miss this beautiful fragrance. Bravo to Nick and his most excellent Fanghorn as well as all of his wonderful Pineward Perfumes!

18th February, 2021 (last edited: 06th March, 2021)

Murkwood by Pineward Perfumes

Murkwood brings images of heavy fir, spruce, moss and incense. It is yet another triumph from Pineward Perfumes! I do get a Norne vibe from Murkwood, but without the clove note that seems to appear in Norne during it's wear. Murkwood instead takes me to the forest with it's smells of conifer resins, wood, and one of my favorite parts of wearing Murkwood is that it also invokes the smell of pine nuts. Murkwood and Fanghorn are both nuclear in strength and you definitely don't need to over spray to enjoy it for many, many hours. This makes it a great value. Another coniferous gem from Pineward!
18th February, 2021

Steading by Pineward Perfumes

Steading is all about sweetness and warmth. It settles itself into a cloud of maple syrup, hay, tobacco, and honey in the base notes. The opening notes have a bit of freshness to them from hops and fir resin. This slight zing then takes on the sweeter, more enveloping qualities of a gourmand as Steading progresses. Pineward Perfumes for the most part have very powerful performance and Steading is no exception. You only need to apply a small amount to enjoy wearing it all day and into the evening. This is a fragrance to be worn at a cabin on a winter's adventure. It really comes alive in the cold winter air.
18th February, 2021

Apple Tabac by Pineward Perfumes

Apple Tabac lasts a long time on my skin and is very enjoyable. This indeed has a strong "Fresh Red Apple" note. As a kid I worked in the orchards with apples many summers and I can say that this apple note is indeed that of a fresh red apple as opposed to a Golden Delicious or a Granny Smith apple type note. This is counter balanced by a tobacco leaf like note. This tobacco leaf note smells of the dried tobacco leaf variety to me but perhaps thats because of the blending. It gives the apple note a bed of warmth to lay on along with a slight zing from some fir balasam and butteriness from the rum note. This is a beautiful fragrance and I have been enjoying it very much.
18th February, 2021

Christmas Wine by Pineward Perfumes

Christmas Wine by Pineward Perfumes takes a slightly different direction that Fille en Aiguilles or Sacre Noir, both coniferous fragrances with a holiday fruits and spices theme. Where Serge Lutens FEA and House of Matriarchs SN both go in a slightly sweet direction, Christmas Wine keeps things more true to the actual notes of the conifer resin, fruits, and spices. It smells fresh yet liquored and very festive. This perfume is another one that has nuclear strength and it is best to go light on the sprays if you don't want to project like a thousand watt candle. :-) You will smell good doing it though. Another brilliant conifer fragrance with a holiday theme that I'm so glad to have in my collection!
18th February, 2021

Diaghilev by Roja Dove

Only tried this once so far, but so far so good! This smells wonderful and reminds me of a cross between Amber Cologne and Musk Cologne from Bortnikoff, at least it does in the opening. I've got to spend more time with the dry down as I was far too distracted with life situations when the dry down arrived and I couldn't focus on it like I wanted to.

I could've sworn I smelled ambergris in this one, but maybe it is the civet lurking in the background. Anyway, I need to wear it many more times, but I certainly enjoyed my first wearing. An excellent Chypre that dances on your skin like a Tinker Bell sized Russian ballerina...just beautiful!
14th February, 2021

Arlington by D.R. Harris & co.

I appreciate Arlington for what it is...and what it is is a fleeting neroli aftershave with a slight hint of green in it's later stages. The whole experience is unfortunately short lived, and yes, it is refreshing, and yes, it does smell nice. The asking price is high in my opinion though and I'd like to see better performance from this product than it actually produces.

I purchased the shaving cream in the tub and I must say that it didn't lubricate my face and beard as well as virutally all of the other wet shaving soaps I own and I own quite a few. In total, I purchased the shaving cream as mentioned as well as a bottle of the aftershave. I then purchased the Aftershave Milk and the EDC. My feelings after having used all of the products would be that the after shave and especially the after shave milk are items I enjoyed enough not to be feeling like I wished I hadn't made the investment. The cologne and especially the shaving cream are both items that I wouldn't recommend based on their performance at this point. The shave cream didn't seem to protect my skin as well as I would have liked, and the Eau d Cologne was a splash bottle and didn't have very much longevity at all. If I was buying again, I'd just stick with the aftershave milk and enjoy the short lived scent of that. I was surprised by the fact that the citrus I smelled was neroli and that I didn't get any lemon which is what I read was the main opening citrus note. It was neroli for me as the main note throughout. Neroli Portofino by TF projects a lot better and smells better overall too IMO. Arlington is a neutral at this point for me.
01st February, 2021

Kazehikaru by Di Ser

What a beautiful fragrance Kazehikaru is...for about 10 to 15 minutes it's heavenly...and's gone. A shame really as this shines like a radiant sun over a yuzu tree farm with some shiso growing nearby along with vetiver. That's what I mainly smell. I don't really pick up the rose, but I would love to own this if it didn't disappear faster than a sigh in the wind.
20th January, 2021

Nuit Etoilée by Annick Goutal

Interesting first impressions of Nuit Etoille by Annick Goutal. It does open with a green smell, just not the green notes I was hoping for. It reminds me of the stems of nettles freshly snapped...brisk, slightly herbal and perhaps hesperedic, which would lead me to believe that bergamot might be involved in the opening? The opening also reminded me just for a moment of Idyllwild by Ineke which has more of a rhubarb note, whereas Nuit Etoilee smells more of nettles. In very short order however I can smell an almost anise, licorice note but it comes across more fennel like to me because of the overall herbal quality of the fragrance. I am not getting any fir or fir balsam unfortunately. They were the two notes I bought this fragrance for, but it was a "blind" buy so I'm not upset because I've been doing this long enough to know the risks. This is an enjoyable fragrance and I do like it already. There is a very slight resinous quality and along with the licorice note reminds me just a tiny bit of Vikt by Slumberhouse, but Nuit Etoilee is much more transparent than Vikt and where I'm getting floral nuances from Nuit Etoilee, I get bay leaf from Vikt. This is a thumbs up for me as it is an enjoyable accord and one I will wear, it's just not the coniferous fragrance I was hoping for.
09th January, 2021

Blasted Bloom by Penhaligon's

Blasted Bloom is definitely a unisex fragrance. It opens with a salty marine note and some light very green florals that almost make me think of what I remember clover flowers smelling like when I was a kid. The aquatic note is mixed well and hasn't completely overpowered the fragrance which has been a good thing. Honestly, this smells pretty darn nice. One spray has filled the room and is all that I needed personally to enjoy this fragrance. I also pick up the Hawthorn note as well which I enjoy as it adds to the overall fresh feeling of Blasted Bloom. Overspraying this one would be a mistake in my a little goes a long way and I believe that the salty aquatic note could choke you out if you overspray. What a pleasant experience I've had with Blasted Bloom today. Nice to find another Penhaligons that I's been a while. Two thumbs up!
09th January, 2021

Celebes Wood by Mizensir

Anyone who likes Francis Kurkdjian's work will like Alberto Morallias' Mizesir project. It is a polished fragrance line loaded with synthetic materials that are well blended and high end from start to finish. The packaging and presentation are impeccable and the fragrances are well crafted and smell good. So far I've tried Celebes Wood and For Your Love. Celebes Wood smells like Morallias' tribute to Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille and For Your Love smells like his tribute to MFK's Baccarat Rouge 540. Or, they are his "take" on these already well established fragrances. They might not be complete copies, but they both smell a lot like TV and BR540. They both have amazing longevity as synthetic heavy blends do. One small spray and you're projecting like crazy all day and long into the evening. I would recommend sampling them before a full bottle purchase, especially if you own TV or BR540. I'm going to compare them head to head. So far I prefer Tobacco Vanille to Celebes Wood.

You don't need Celebes Wood if you already own Tobacco Vanille in my opinion. I also don't think Celebes Wood smells anything like Creed's Spice & Wood.
16th December, 2020

Atomic Age Bay Rum by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

This is also my favorite Bay Rum of all the ones I've tried from many companies. AABR is wonderful. The barrel aged bay rum spiciness is on point in every way for me, whereas other bay rum's I've tried have had nice elements to them, they haven't been as enjoyable or balanced as Atomic Age Bay Rum. This holds it's own against so many of my extremely expensive fragrances and is just as enjoyable as almost all of them. I also love PAA's flankers of Atomic Age Bay Rum. In fact, Coconut Bay with Lime is my favorite and just barely edges Atomic Age Bay Rum as my fave from the entire PAA line. Atomic Pumpkin is also very nice as well.

The bottom line is that Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements has some excellent fragrances that go unnoticed by many because they are a wet shaving company...but they shouldn't go unnoticed because many of their offerings are just flat out excellent.
23rd November, 2020

Lo~Haiku (2019) by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Hai Karate was the first fragrance I ever purchased. It was back in 1972 in a small town variety store and I think it cost around $2.50 or something like that but regardless, it was cheap as chips, so of course I had to buy Lo-Haiku when I saw it. While not an exact replica of HK, Lo-Haiku is pretty darn close and brought a big smile to my face and a vivid scent memory. Mission accomplished! Two thumbs up for me!
19th November, 2020

Coconut Bay with Lime by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Coconut Bay with Lime is my favorite from the Phoenix Artisan Accoutrement line. It is the perfect blend of bay rum with coconut and lime. They put the lime in the coconut and blend them both up...sorry...couldn't resist. Anyway, there is nothing about this fragrance that I don't love. It stands up to so many high priced fragrances and exceeds so many of them it's ridiculous. A true gem that's a definite value. I love this fragrance so much! Definitely worth a try that's for sure! Two thumbs up as high as I can point them!
03rd November, 2020

Koala by Zoologist Perfumes

Smells fresh. Literally smells like dryer sheet freshener. Clean Musk perhaps, with the dryer sheet vibe for sure. There’s the whisper of a eucalyptus note that’s blended way back in the mix. Not a bad smell, but so far it’s not inspiring me to invest in a bottle of Koala.
14th September, 2020