Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

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Total Reviews: 376

Koala by Zoologist Perfumes

Smells fresh. Literally smells like dryer sheet freshener. Clean Musk perhaps, with the dryer sheet vibe for sure. There’s the whisper of a eucalyptus note that’s blended way back in the mix. Not a bad smell, but so far it’s not inspiring me to invest in a bottle of Koala.
14th September, 2020

Zeste de Gingembre by Heeley

Not gonna lie...I'm disappointed so far. I blind bought because I love James Heeley's work and have immensely enjoyed virtually everything I've bought from Heeley so far. The note break down on this sounds like it would be perfect to me...ginger...lime...orange zest...yes...yes...yes! I was so hopeful that the base notes wouldn't be the main players in this fragrance as pink pepper and cardamom are not my faves. Well...my bottle arrived and POW!!! This is a cardamom bomb to my nose. There is a slight vagrant breeze of ginger, lime and orange zest in the opening...but the opening lasts for mere minutes while the base notes last for hours which is the opposite of what I was hoping for. I do need to give this many more wears to see if it's progression grows on me, but so far I'm not feeling it. My favorite ginger fragrance to date is Dirty Ginger by Heretic Parfums which is absolutely amazing by the way.

Anyway, if you love cardamom you should at least sample Zeste de Gingembre by Heeley. Neutral rating so far for me.
14th September, 2020

Young Hearts by Bruno Acampora

Based on my first wearing, Young Hearts smells a lot like Ecstasy by Tiziana Terenzi. Rose and pine. YH has saffron in it though which sets it apart from Ecstasy. I need to do a side by side comparison next. Since I already own Ecstasy I don't think I'll need a bottle of Young Hearts though.
12th September, 2020
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Oud Monarch by Bortnikoff

Very nice sweet oud blend. The oud here smells like it's blended with a black walnut oil as well although nothing like that is listed in the note breakdown. Must be the cacao blended with the vanilla and laudanum. It's smells sheer but also lavish at the same time. Does not remind me of ALD Russian Oud, but I definitely love them both. Russian Oud is thick where Oud Monarch is as I mentioned sheer and very wearable in my opinion. Definitely full bottle worthy to me.
12th September, 2020

Grey Vetiver Eau de Toilette by Tom Ford

An excellent, clean vetiver fragrance that just smells amazing. I love this one and only like the EDP version which isn't as clean and fresh as the EDT. Just my personal preference, but I much prefer this version and wish TF hadn't discontinued it...or at least it appears it's been discontinued as it's getting more difficult to find all the time.
30th August, 2020 (last edited: 23rd September, 2020)

Booster by Lacoste

Booster is excellent. It's a fresh, minty fragrance that is cheap as chips and smells like it's worth much more than it costs. I love it and always want to have it in my collection with a couple of back up bottles to boot!
30th August, 2020

Melkmeisje by Baruti

Very green fragrance profile to my nose. It reminds me of Eiderantler from January Scent Project. I guess I should say, Eiderantler reminds me in some way of Melkmeisje since Melkmeisje was created first. It's got to be the lilac with the tangy greenness that's made me think of Eiderantler today while wearing Melkmeisje. I'm sure if I do a side by side comparison they won't smell that much a like...but there is something that's making me think this. I'm gonna try the side by side comparison just to see. Anyway, I prefer the dry down to the opening with this fragrance. It's well made and worth a sample at least in my opinion.
20th August, 2020

Musk Khabib by Bortnikoff

Wow...I'm in love again! Musk Kabib is magical. I wore it today for the second time and recognized something in it...a note I'd smelled before...something that smelled like a fragrance I've smelled before...and then it hit me. In the opening, it reminds me of the ghost of Atlantic Ambergris!!! I owned Atlantic Ambergris for two years and then like a complete imbecile...I sold it. Whimper...makes me sad just thinking about it now. Anyway, Musk Kabib has a moment in the opening where I can smell Atlantic Ambergris and it made me so happy! I then looked up the note listing for Musk Kabib and saw that it does indeed contain natural ambergris. I knew when I figured out what I was smelling that I would have to own a bottle of Musk Kabib now...it really is special! Two thumbs way up for Musk Kabib!
06th August, 2020

PI by Bravanariz

Ahh...pine! My favorite of all notes is fir needle resin, with spruce and pine resins following closely, then cypress, juniper, cedar...yeah the conifers are the bomb in my book.

It took me a while to get a bottle of PI by Bravanariz, but I'm very happy I did! I read a review that said this smelled putrid in the opening and then shifted to smelling like pine wood or shavings. My experience so far is that PI smells line pine. There is nothing putrid that I can smell, just the fresh coniferous pine tree, and it doesn't get much better than that baby! I need to wear PI a few more times to get a true feel and I'll come back and update my review, but so far so good! All hail to beautiful coniferous fragrances and the perfumers who make them! Two thumbs up!

Okay, well I applied more PI and I can smell an almost alcoholic pine note in the opening. Smells great to me! This is a very elemental smelling perfume and I noticed in the dry down that the more pine wood elements begin to surface as time passes. It doesn't have great longevity, but that doesn't bother me in this case because I enjoy the ride as long as it lasts.
01st August, 2020

Silvestre by Bravanariz

I just got a bottle of Silvestre by Bravanariz. It is a wonderful green eau d' cologne. I've been trying to get my hands on a bottle for a while now and was finally able to get one. The initial notes are citrus followed by rosemary. It stays very linear to me and the citrus and rosemary are what I've been able to detect upon my first wear.

This fragrance has very weak sillage and longevity...but I still love it. It's a greener take on a freshie and I'm all about that. I would love to smell a lot of pine in this and think it would help my enjoyment level, but it's still excellent because I love rosemary. Rosemary has a coniferous vibe to it but also smells of herbs as well.

What's great however is that Bravanariz' Silvestre doesn't smell like thyme...it smells like rosemary which I much prefer.

Pino Silvestre smells like thyme which smells of kitchen cabinet herbs and I don't care for it nearly as much.

The one down side as I've mentioned is it doesn't last at all. This is nice if you're looking for a quick refresher as it does that job quite well! But, if you're looking for a long term wear, Silvestre doesn't do that. It held as a skin scent for me for about 2 to 2.5 hrs. and was dissipating the whole time and then ghosted away completely. This comes in a 200mil bottle and isn't expensive, so hosing yourself down with it sounds like another option. I may try that on my next wear! Thumbs up for me!
01st August, 2020

Haxan by Parfum Prissana

Haxan...a cacaphony of juniper berry and oakmoss to my nose although neither note is listed in the 38 notes that "are" listed. This is a very sharp scent that slashes the senses in a way that those who love say, Mousse Illuminee by Rouge or Itasca by Lubin will absolutely love. In fact, this smells A LOT like Itasca. They are very closely related when it comes to the overall smell that they produce even though there are different notes listed. The minute I sprayed Haxan on my skin I thought, "okay...I've definitely smelled this before", and after about three minutes with Haxan it hit me that it was Itasca. Neither of them are frags that I need to spend much time with as they are what I refer to as very sharp and slashing to my senses. Haxan is well made, but it's not a love or a need for me.
08th July, 2020

Heritage by Fragrance Du Bois

Starts out with the aldehyde sparkle then transitions more floral from there. The far dry down is just incredibly nice...slightly powdery but in all the right ways as far as I'm concerned. I'd love to have a bottle, but I have a lot of fragrance wants and this one's down the line a ways...maybe one day if there are any bottles left available by then.
15th May, 2020

London Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

Straight up a high quality aquatic, nothing more nothing less. There is no oud here. LO smells nice, but is incredibly overpriced. Honestly I enjoy Jack Black's Blue Mark every bit as much if not slightly more than London Oud and it costs so much less it would be insane for me to pay the larcenous prices for London Oud when I already own Blue Mark. My advice, save some money and buy yourself some Jack Black Blue Mark.
12th May, 2020
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The Voices of Trees by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Excellent woods here! As mentioned very resinous. I also feel like I’m smelling elemi resin although it’s not listed. The wood smell is intoxicating and when you bury your nose in this when it’s freshly applied it gives you the sense of being in an enclosed cedar chest that’s been absorbing the deep funes of the wood for years. Well perhaps not a “cedar” chest per se, but I do almost feel like I can smell some cedar as well. Weak on longevity and sillage, but other than that a real beauty. I think it’s bottle worthy.
23rd April, 2020

Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche

Not a bad little $20.00 purchase! Honestly Drakkar Noir has reminded me more of Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene than it has of Polo or Quorum or Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and the other masculine fougere's from the late 70's and early 80's. I actually quite enjoyed my day with Drakkar Noir. It doesn't have outstanding projection or staying power, but is still something I will wear and enjoy...coo.
21st April, 2020

Ecstasy by Tiziana Terenzi

Yeah...this is right in my wheelhouse. Jammy from pine and spruce resin as well as rose. There's definitely some frankincense in here as well that doesn't let the rose get overpowering. Ecstasy is very comfortable to wear. It has a nice vapor trail without causing choke out for the unsuspecting passer by in the house. Since there are no co-workers around the house you don't have to worry about offending them, just family members. I would say Ecstasy has more in common with No. 88 than it does with Lyric Man from an overall masculine rose "vibe" standpoint. Instead of the clove rose smell I get from No. 88, Ecstasy has the conifer rose going on...very nice!
19th April, 2020

Note de Yuzu by Heeley

The opening of Note De Yuzu is wonderfully refreshing grapefruit and mandarin...if it held onto the opening throughout I'd want a bottle regardless of it being completely linear. The opening is very short lived however and the dry down isn't nearly as enjoyable for me as it seems to drift into the white musk camp with a touch of saltiness and of course it also disappears completely in time. I don't think this smells like Sel Marin in the dry down as I don't really get the birch woodiness of Sel Marin which I love. Note De Yuzu isn't FB worthy for me, but I sure do enjoy that opening.
11th April, 2020

Green Valley by Creed

The opening of Green Valley reminds me much more of Millesime Imperial than it does of Green Irish Tweed. A lot of saltiness which I remember being a huge part of MI. I must add that it's been a while since I wore MI, but from memory, Green Valley smells like a green version of MI with blackcurrant instead of the melon note in MI. As this dries down I can smell a correlation to Silver Mountain Water as well without the tea note that stands out in SMW. I am enjoying the dry down phases of Green Valley more than the opening. This is a nice fresh green scent that I'd own if I could get a bottle at a decent price, but that seems unlikely given it's discontinued status.
14th March, 2020

Bosc by Bravanariz

A beautiful coniferous fragrance with wonderful notes of pine, juniper and rosemary. Mastic also brings it’s bright, slightly bitter greeness, but it’s blended the sweet orange wonderfully! The overall scent profile is of a walk through a coniferous forest with all the wafts of notes that come with that environment. Just excellent in my book! The only short coming is that it doesn’t last long enough, but as a natural fragrance that’s to be expected. Two thumbs way up for Bosc! I love it!
22nd February, 2020

Feu Secret by Bruno Fazzolari

Feu Secret is a wonderful fragrance created with expert care by Bruno Fazzolari. I love the opening the most as it fills my senses with resinous spruce and a slight zing of eucalyptus, but it's just the right amount of eucalyptus because too much can ruin an otherwise good fragrance. The orris butter brings a slight metallic sheen and the birch tar helps ground the bright notes while still letting them stretch their wings and fly at just the right altitudes. The cedar and especially the vanilla also bring a comfort as Feu Secret just keeps doing it's wonderful thing for about 8 hours on my skin. This as I said is truly a marvelous fragrance that I'm so happy to own. I feel a bit like Gandalf as I am also a keeper of the secret fire! I'll bet my secret fire smells much better than his though. :-)

Two thumbs way up for Feu Secret!
19th January, 2020

Trussardi Inside Man by Trussardi

Not a fan...as Possum Pie already explained and I quote, "It smells like the most generic fragrance picked up at random from a Macy's men's counter." He hit the nail on the head with that comment and it was the exact thought i had when I wore this fragrance. I'm only going neutral with my rating until I wear it a few more times, but this is nothing I'm interested in...very standard designer mens assembly line dreg.
19th January, 2020

Telegrama by Imaginary Authors

Telegram announces itself as a talc centric fragrance...at least that's what I read in the original marketing materials, but honestly it has the bones of one of my favorite IA fragrances and that's Saint Julep. It's the "sugar" accord that is the foundation of both Telegrama and Saint Julep to my nose, but where Saint Julep is a white sugar accord with mint, Telegrama is a brown sugar accord...and a very carmelized brown sugar accord at that. It smells very nice and I definitely need to spend some more time with it. There is a faint lavender and a light wood accord as this develops. A great first impression for me from Telegrama...
15th January, 2020

Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff

Instant love for Musk Cologne by Bortnikoff! What a wonderful fresh dream of a fragrance with just a hint of real deer musk to give it some body and depth. This is orange/tangerine/lemon/bergamot in the opening but the deer musk is also present, playing softly in the background. The blending is divine with Musk Cologne and you could honestly wear this beautiful fragrance in virtually any situation. I pick up some soft ylang as well and the sandalwood and palosanto or "guiac" lend some foundation in the final phases. The one draw back might be the longevity and sillage as this becomes a skin scent faster than I'd like but honestly this is a must have cologne for me as it makes me happy as soon as I apply it. Two thumbs way up for Musk Cologne!!
15th January, 2020

Lamplight Penance by Chatillon Lux

Lamplight Penance smells a lot like Shay & Blue's White Peaches to me although with much less sweetness. A lot of peach aldehydes with a candle wax accord and some cardamom is how I would describe this. Actually cardamom isn't listed in the notes, but I still feel like I smell some in this mixture. This isn't a favorite, but it isn't bad either. I'd prefer to smell more berries and rum along with some ambergris. Worth exploring further. Excellent sillage and longevity on my skin.
09th January, 2020

Bee by Zoologist Perfumes

Bee by Zoologist is amazing...I absolutely love it! Yes it's sweet, but the sweetness is perfection to my nose. The ginger syrup and orange with the royal jelly accord in the opening is my favorite phase and I smell the individual notes. Once the opening begins to fade Bee becomes pretty linear, but I don't mind at all because it just smells wonderful! Full bottle worthy for sure in my opine.

Honestly, Bee is one of my new favs...brilliant!
04th January, 2020

Malik al Taif by Areej le Doré

What an interesting rose note this is. It smells exactly like rose mixed with green olives to my nose. Odd! But...I kind of like it! The opening brings a little more rose for the first few minutes but then the green olive marinated smell gets stronger. The dry down softens the green olive smell up as the mysore sandalwood and amber bring a smooth ending which is my favorite part. Not sure if I'd invest in a bottle but a decant might be worth the investment.
27th December, 2019

Fur by Madhat Scents

This is a master work! What a wonderful combination of coniferous fir and pine with animalic castoreum and hyraceum. I am absolutely thrilled with how good this fragrance is!!! What a wonderful addition to my fragrance collection. Honestly, the blending here is so good that the conifer, musk, honey, cinnamon, tobacco, clove and all of the other notes have become better together than they are seperately. Okay, so maybe not the fir resin. It's already perfect on it's own. ;-) But seriously, Fur is a complete and utter masterpiece in my opinion! Not only full bottle worthy, but back up bottle worthy as well. Bravo to MadHat, as I truly believe this is your masterwork my friend!!! I'm so grateful that I didn't miss out on this beautiful fragrance!
21st December, 2019 (last edited: 22nd December, 2019)

Raspberries and Black Pepper by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Semi-enthusiastic thumbs up for Raspberries and Black Pepper from Liz Zorn's Soivohle. This opens with a fruit note mixed with florals and the smell of white pepper, not black pepper in my opinion. I don't smell raspberries either, probably closer to a strawberry vibe than a raspberry one, (I prefer a raspberry note to strawberry personally). I don't mind this fragrance if not over-sprayed. It has a slight feminine vibe, but not overpowering if I wear just a couple of sprays. Fairly nice change-up from some of the stuff I usually wear. Lasts quite a while on my skin as well.
29th November, 2019

Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene

My favorite of the inexpensive green fragrances. Excellent citrus opening with some spiciness cardamom, lavender, and just a hint of pine. I would of course like to smell more pine and fir, but still, this is a true gem of a fragrance. Multiple back up bottles are definitely in order! I compared this to Pino Silvestre a while back and Bowling Green is infinitely more enjoyable to me. Pino Silvestre smells so much like a kitchen spice cabinet that it's just not my thing...but Bowling Green definitely is my thing! Two thumbs way up!
24th November, 2019

Kalan by Parfums de Marly

Take one part Baccarat Rouge 540 EDT with some dry toast accord and that pretty much sums up the opening of Kalan. Then I realized it was Floris of London's Elite that I was smelling.

I actually enjoyed this all day long, but it did remind me of both Baccarat Rouge 540 and also of Floris Elite. The far dry down is very enjoyable as Kalan softens. Although I own both Baccarat Rouge 540 and Elite, I still feel like Kalan has enoughof it's own unique vibe that I'd buy a bottle if I could get it at a discounted price.
23rd November, 2019