Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Scent Detective

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Total Reviews: 392

For Your Love by Mizensir

I really do like For Your Love by Alberto Morillas' Mizensir. I'm a big fan of raspberry fragrances depending on their compositions. For Your Love has been compared to Baccarat Rouge 540 EDP, but they smell quite different to me, especially in their opening notes. Both do have a noticeable raspberry, but the BR540 has a mix of saffron that makes it much different than FYL. Both fragrances are textbook examples of the use of synthetic compositions that are done extremely well. For Your Love in it's far dry down does leave it's clean opening and mids into a slightly "dirty" for want of a better word dry down with it's synthetic ambergris mixed with patchouli, but it has an overall cleaner vibe to me than BR540. Happy to have this one in my collection as it's a scent profile that I enjoy. Nice job Alberto!
24th February, 2021

L'Homme Menthe by Roger & Gallet

A chemical stew of a fragrance...doesn't smell like the three notes listed to me. Two thumbs down.
20th February, 2021

Murkwood by Pineward Perfumes

Murkwood brings images of heavy fir, spruce, moss and incense. It is yet another triumph from Pineward Perfumes! I do get a Norne vibe from Murkwood, but without the clove note that seems to appear in Norne during it's wear. Murkwood instead takes me to the forest with it's smells of conifer resins, wood, and one of my favorite parts of wearing Murkwood is that it also invokes the smell of pine nuts. Murkwood and Fanghorn are both nuclear in strength and you definitely don't need to over spray to enjoy it for many, many hours. This makes it a great value. Another coniferous gem from Pineward!
18th February, 2021
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Steading by Pineward Perfumes

Steading is all about sweetness and warmth. It settles itself into a cloud of maple syrup, hay, tobacco, and honey in the base notes. The opening notes have a bit of freshness to them from hops and fir resin. This slight zing then takes on the sweeter, more enveloping qualities of a gourmand as Steading progresses. Pineward Perfumes for the most part have very powerful performance and Steading is no exception. You only need to apply a small amount to enjoy wearing it all day and into the evening. This is a fragrance to be worn at a cabin on a winter's adventure. It really comes alive in the cold winter air.
18th February, 2021

Apple Tabac by Pineward Perfumes

Apple Tabac lasts a long time on my skin and is very enjoyable. This indeed has a strong "Fresh Red Apple" note. As a kid I worked in the orchards with apples many summers and I can say that this apple note is indeed that of a fresh red apple as opposed to a Golden Delicious or a Granny Smith apple type note. This is counter balanced by a tobacco leaf like note. This tobacco leaf note smells of the dried tobacco leaf variety to me but perhaps thats because of the blending. It gives the apple note a bed of warmth to lay on along with a slight zing from some fir balasam and butteriness from the rum note. This is a beautiful fragrance and I have been enjoying it very much.
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18th February, 2021

Christmas Wine by Pineward Perfumes

Christmas Wine by Pineward Perfumes takes a slightly different direction that Fille en Aiguilles or Sacre Noir, both coniferous fragrances with a holiday fruits and spices theme. Where Serge Lutens FEA and House of Matriarchs SN both go in a slightly sweet direction, Christmas Wine keeps things more true to the actual notes of the conifer resin, fruits, and spices. It smells fresh yet liquored and very festive. This perfume is another one that has nuclear strength and it is best to go light on the sprays if you don't want to project like a thousand watt candle. :-) You will smell good doing it though. Another brilliant conifer fragrance with a holiday theme that I'm so glad to have in my collection!
18th February, 2021

Boreal by Pineward Perfumes

Boreal is the conifer lovers Eau de Cologne. It is piney, fresh, and wonderful! The mint note is blended perfectly with the pine needle resin and is so refreshing. I plan to bring a small sprayer bottle of Boreal with me throughout the days that I wear it to keep refreshing myself as it wears down. That's not to say that it doesn't have good longevity and sillage because it does, just at an Eau de Cologne strength, which fits it's character perfectly. This lasts around 5 hours on my skin before I feel the need to re-apply. When Pineward released Boreal and I was able to get my hands on a sample initially and then a full bottle, I realized that Nick had captured what I had hoped for from Dasein Perfumes Winter Green but didn't get. Boreal is worth every penny and then some...a true conifer lovers delight.
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18th February, 2021

Fanghorn by Pineward Perfumes

Fanghorn is a revelation for coniferous fragrance lovers. It's my new reference point by which I judge all of my other conifer fragrances and I own quite a few. I've been on the hunt for the best coniferous fragrance available since the end of 2014. I wore Polo beginning in 1983 and the original Polo had an amazing pine note that brought me such happiness that when it was ultimately reformulated, the joy of that pine note was taken away. Life being what it is, I didn't focus on that loss for many years, but eventually I realized how much I wanted the find the perfect coniferous fragrance and so I've been searching for the last six years and discovering many wonderful fragrances along the way. I can now say that finding Fanghorn has become the culmination of that search. Nick Nilsson has captured the most wonderful conifer experience I've had. Fanghorn is marvelous beyond words. If you love conifer needle resin like I do, then you can't miss this beautiful fragrance. Bravo to Nick and his most excellent Fanghorn as well as all of his wonderful Pineward Perfumes!
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18th February, 2021

Arlington by D.R. Harris & co.

I appreciate Arlington for what it is...and what it is is a fleeting neroli aftershave with a slight hint of green in it's later stages. The whole experience is unfortunately short lived, and yes, it is refreshing, and yes, it does smell nice. The asking price is high in my opinion though and I'd like to see better performance from this product than it actually produces.

I purchased the shaving cream in the tub and I must say that it didn't lubricate my face and beard as well as virutally all of the other wet shaving soaps I own and I own quite a few. In total, I purchased the shaving cream as mentioned as well as a bottle of the aftershave. I then purchased the Aftershave Milk and the EDC. My feelings after having used all of the products would be that the after shave and especially the after shave milk are items I enjoyed enough not to be feeling like I wished I hadn't made the investment. The cologne and especially the shaving cream are both items that I wouldn't recommend based on their performance at this point. The shave cream didn't seem to protect my skin as well as I would have liked, and the Eau d Cologne was a splash bottle and didn't have very much longevity at all. If I was buying again, I'd just stick with the aftershave milk and enjoy the short lived scent of that. I was surprised by the fact that the citrus I smelled was neroli and that I didn't get any lemon which is what I read was the main opening citrus note. It was neroli for me as the main note throughout. Neroli Portofino by TF projects a lot better and smells better overall too IMO. Arlington is a neutral at this point for me.
01st February, 2021

Kazehikaru by Di Ser

What a beautiful fragrance Kazehikaru is...for about 10 to 15 minutes it's heavenly...and then...it's gone. A shame really as this shines like a radiant sun over a yuzu tree farm with some shiso growing nearby along with vetiver. That's what I mainly smell. I don't really pick up the rose, but I would love to own this if it didn't disappear faster than a sigh in the wind.
20th January, 2021

Nuit Etoilée by Annick Goutal

Interesting first impressions of Nuit Etoille by Annick Goutal. It does open with a green smell, just not the green notes I was hoping for. It reminds me of the stems of nettles freshly snapped...brisk, slightly herbal and perhaps hesperedic, which would lead me to believe that bergamot might be involved in the opening? The opening also reminded me just for a moment of Idyllwild by Ineke which has more of a rhubarb note, whereas Nuit Etoilee smells more of nettles. In very short order however I can smell an almost anise, licorice note but it comes across more fennel like to me because of the overall herbal quality of the fragrance. I am not getting any fir or fir balsam unfortunately. They were the two notes I bought this fragrance for, but it was a "blind" buy so I'm not upset because I've been doing this long enough to know the risks. This is an enjoyable fragrance and I do like it already. There is a very slight resinous quality and along with the licorice note reminds me just a tiny bit of Vikt by Slumberhouse, but Nuit Etoilee is much more transparent than Vikt and where I'm getting floral nuances from Nuit Etoilee, I get bay leaf from Vikt. This is a thumbs up for me as it is an enjoyable accord and one I will wear, it's just not the coniferous fragrance I was hoping for.
09th January, 2021

Blasted Bloom by Penhaligon's

Blasted Bloom is definitely a unisex fragrance. It opens with a salty marine note and some light very green florals that almost make me think of what I remember clover flowers smelling like when I was a kid. The aquatic note is mixed well and hasn't completely overpowered the fragrance which has been a good thing. Honestly, this smells pretty darn nice. One spray has filled the room and is all that I needed personally to enjoy this fragrance. I also pick up the Hawthorn note as well which I enjoy as it adds to the overall fresh feeling of Blasted Bloom. Overspraying this one would be a mistake in my opinion...as a little goes a long way and I believe that the salty aquatic note could choke you out if you overspray. What a pleasant experience I've had with Blasted Bloom today. Nice to find another Penhaligons that I like...it's been a while. Two thumbs up!
09th January, 2021

Celebes Wood by Mizensir

Anyone who likes Francis Kurkdjian's work will like Alberto Morallias' Mizesir project. It is a polished fragrance line loaded with synthetic materials that are well blended and high end from start to finish. The packaging and presentation are impeccable and the fragrances are well crafted and smell good. So far I've tried Celebes Wood and For Your Love. Celebes Wood smells like Morallias' tribute to Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille and For Your Love smells like his tribute to MFK's Baccarat Rouge 540. Or, they are his "take" on these already well established fragrances. They might not be complete copies, but they both smell a lot like TV and BR540. They both have amazing longevity as synthetic heavy blends do. One small spray and you're projecting like crazy all day and long into the evening. I would recommend sampling them before a full bottle purchase, especially if you own TV or BR540. I'm going to compare them head to head. So far I prefer Tobacco Vanille to Celebes Wood.

You don't need Celebes Wood if you already own Tobacco Vanille in my opinion. I also don't think Celebes Wood smells anything like Creed's Spice & Wood.
16th December, 2020
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Atomic Age Bay Rum by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

This is also my favorite Bay Rum of all the ones I've tried from many companies. AABR is wonderful. The barrel aged bay rum spiciness is on point in every way for me, whereas other bay rum's I've tried have had nice elements to them, they haven't been as enjoyable or balanced as Atomic Age Bay Rum. This holds it's own against so many of my extremely expensive fragrances and is just as enjoyable as almost all of them. I also love PAA's flankers of Atomic Age Bay Rum. In fact, Coconut Bay with Lime is my favorite and just barely edges Atomic Age Bay Rum as my fave from the entire PAA line. Atomic Pumpkin is also very nice as well.

The bottom line is that Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements has some excellent fragrances that go unnoticed by many because they are a wet shaving company...but they shouldn't go unnoticed because many of their offerings are just flat out excellent.
23rd November, 2020

Lo~Haiku (2019) by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Hai Karate was the first fragrance I ever purchased. It was back in 1972 in a small town variety store and I think it cost around $2.50 or something like that but regardless, it was cheap as chips, so of course I had to buy Lo-Haiku when I saw it. While not an exact replica of HK, Lo-Haiku is pretty darn close and brought a big smile to my face and a vivid scent memory. Mission accomplished! Two thumbs up for me!
19th November, 2020

Coconut Bay with Lime by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Coconut Bay with Lime is my favorite from the Phoenix Artisan Accoutrement line. It is the perfect blend of bay rum with coconut and lime. They put the lime in the coconut and blend them both up...sorry...couldn't resist. Anyway, there is nothing about this fragrance that I don't love. It stands up to so many high priced fragrances and exceeds so many of them it's ridiculous. A true gem that's a definite value. I love this fragrance so much! Definitely worth a try that's for sure! Two thumbs up as high as I can point them!
03rd November, 2020

Koala by Zoologist Perfumes

Smells fresh. Literally smells like dryer sheet freshener. Clean Musk perhaps, with the dryer sheet vibe for sure. There’s the whisper of a eucalyptus note that’s blended way back in the mix. Not a bad smell, but so far it’s not inspiring me to invest in a bottle of Koala.
14th September, 2020

Zeste de Gingembre by Heeley

Not gonna lie...I'm disappointed so far. I blind bought because I love James Heeley's work and have immensely enjoyed virtually everything I've bought from Heeley so far. The note break down on this sounds like it would be perfect to me...ginger...lime...orange zest...yes...yes...yes! I was so hopeful that the base notes wouldn't be the main players in this fragrance as pink pepper and cardamom are not my faves. Well...my bottle arrived and POW!!! This is a cardamom bomb to my nose. There is a slight vagrant breeze of ginger, lime and orange zest in the opening...but the opening lasts for mere minutes while the base notes last for hours which is the opposite of what I was hoping for. I do need to give this many more wears to see if it's progression grows on me, but so far I'm not feeling it. My favorite ginger fragrance to date is Dirty Ginger by Heretic Parfums which is absolutely amazing by the way.

Anyway, if you love cardamom you should at least sample Zeste de Gingembre by Heeley. Neutral rating so far for me.
14th September, 2020

Young Hearts by Bruno Acampora

Based on my first wearing, Young Hearts smells a lot like Ecstasy by Tiziana Terenzi. Rose and pine. YH has saffron in it though which sets it apart from Ecstasy. I need to do a side by side comparison next. Since I already own Ecstasy I don't think I'll need a bottle of Young Hearts though.
12th September, 2020

Oud Monarch by Bortnikoff

Very nice sweet oud blend. The oud here smells like it's blended with a black walnut oil as well although nothing like that is listed in the note breakdown. Must be the cacao blended with the vanilla and laudanum. It's smells sheer but also lavish at the same time. Does not remind me of ALD Russian Oud, but I definitely love them both. Russian Oud is thick where Oud Monarch is as I mentioned sheer and very wearable in my opinion. Definitely full bottle worthy to me.
12th September, 2020

Grey Vetiver Eau de Toilette by Tom Ford

An excellent, clean vetiver fragrance that just smells amazing. I love this one and only like the EDP version which isn't as clean and fresh as the EDT. Just my personal preference, but I much prefer this version and wish TF hadn't discontinued it...or at least it appears it's been discontinued as it's getting more difficult to find all the time.
30th August, 2020 (last edited: 23rd September, 2020)

Booster by Lacoste

Booster is excellent. It's a fresh, minty fragrance that is cheap as chips and smells like it's worth much more than it costs. I love it and always want to have it in my collection with a couple of back up bottles to boot!
30th August, 2020

Melkmeisje by Baruti

Very green fragrance profile to my nose. It reminds me of Eiderantler from January Scent Project. I guess I should say, Eiderantler reminds me in some way of Melkmeisje since Melkmeisje was created first. It's got to be the lilac with the tangy greenness that's made me think of Eiderantler today while wearing Melkmeisje. I'm sure if I do a side by side comparison they won't smell that much a like...but there is something that's making me think this. I'm gonna try the side by side comparison just to see. Anyway, I prefer the dry down to the opening with this fragrance. It's well made and worth a sample at least in my opinion.
20th August, 2020

Musk Khabib by Bortnikoff

Wow...I'm in love again! Musk Kabib is magical. I wore it today for the second time and recognized something in it...a note I'd smelled before...something that smelled like a fragrance I've smelled before...and then it hit me. In the opening, it reminds me of the ghost of Atlantic Ambergris!!! I owned Atlantic Ambergris for two years and then like a complete imbecile...I sold it. Whimper...makes me sad just thinking about it now. Anyway, Musk Kabib has a moment in the opening where I can smell Atlantic Ambergris and it made me so happy! I then looked up the note listing for Musk Kabib and saw that it does indeed contain natural ambergris. I knew when I figured out what I was smelling that I would have to own a bottle of Musk Kabib now...it really is special! Two thumbs way up for Musk Kabib!
06th August, 2020

PI by Bravanariz

Ahh...pine! My favorite of all notes is fir needle resin, with spruce and pine resins following closely, then cypress, juniper, cedar...yeah the conifers are the bomb in my book.

It took me a while to get a bottle of PI by Bravanariz, but I'm very happy I did! I read a review that said this smelled putrid in the opening and then shifted to smelling like pine wood or shavings. My experience so far is that PI smells line pine. There is nothing putrid that I can smell, just the fresh coniferous pine tree, and it doesn't get much better than that baby! I need to wear PI a few more times to get a true feel and I'll come back and update my review, but so far so good! All hail to beautiful coniferous fragrances and the perfumers who make them! Two thumbs up!

Okay, well I applied more PI and I can smell an almost alcoholic pine note in the opening. Smells great to me! This is a very elemental smelling perfume and I noticed in the dry down that the more pine wood elements begin to surface as time passes. It doesn't have great longevity, but that doesn't bother me in this case because I enjoy the ride as long as it lasts.
01st August, 2020

Silvestre by Bravanariz

I just got a bottle of Silvestre by Bravanariz. It is a wonderful green eau d' cologne. I've been trying to get my hands on a bottle for a while now and was finally able to get one. The initial notes are citrus followed by rosemary. It stays very linear to me and the citrus and rosemary are what I've been able to detect upon my first wear.

This fragrance has very weak sillage and longevity...but I still love it. It's a greener take on a freshie and I'm all about that. I would love to smell a lot of pine in this and think it would help my enjoyment level, but it's still excellent because I love rosemary. Rosemary has a coniferous vibe to it but also smells of herbs as well.

What's great however is that Bravanariz' Silvestre doesn't smell like thyme...it smells like rosemary which I much prefer.

Pino Silvestre smells like thyme which smells of kitchen cabinet herbs and I don't care for it nearly as much.

The one down side as I've mentioned is it doesn't last at all. This is nice if you're looking for a quick refresher as it does that job quite well! But, if you're looking for a long term wear, Silvestre doesn't do that. It held as a skin scent for me for about 2 to 2.5 hrs. and was dissipating the whole time and then ghosted away completely. This comes in a 200mil bottle and isn't expensive, so hosing yourself down with it sounds like another option. I may try that on my next wear! Thumbs up for me!
01st August, 2020

Haxan by Parfum Prissana

Haxan...a cacaphony of juniper berry and oakmoss to my nose although neither note is listed in the 38 notes that "are" listed. This is a very sharp scent that slashes the senses in a way that those who love say, Mousse Illuminee by Rouge or Itasca by Lubin will absolutely love. In fact, this smells A LOT like Itasca. They are very closely related when it comes to the overall smell that they produce even though there are different notes listed. The minute I sprayed Haxan on my skin I thought, "okay...I've definitely smelled this before", and after about three minutes with Haxan it hit me that it was Itasca. Neither of them are frags that I need to spend much time with as they are what I refer to as very sharp and slashing to my senses. Haxan is well made, but it's not a love or a need for me.
08th July, 2020

Heritage by Fragrance Du Bois

Starts out with the aldehyde sparkle then transitions more floral from there. The far dry down is just incredibly nice...slightly powdery but in all the right ways as far as I'm concerned. I'd love to have a bottle, but I have a lot of fragrance wants and this one's down the line a ways...maybe one day if there are any bottles left available by then.
15th May, 2020

London Oud by Fragrance Du Bois

Straight up a high quality aquatic, nothing more nothing less. There is no oud here. LO smells nice, but is incredibly overpriced. Honestly I enjoy Jack Black's Blue Mark every bit as much if not slightly more than London Oud and it costs so much less it would be insane for me to pay the larcenous prices for London Oud when I already own Blue Mark. My advice, save some money and buy yourself some Jack Black Blue Mark.
12th May, 2020

The Voices of Trees by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Excellent woods here! As mentioned very resinous. I also feel like I’m smelling elemi resin although it’s not listed. The wood smell is intoxicating and when you bury your nose in this when it’s freshly applied it gives you the sense of being in an enclosed cedar chest that’s been absorbing the deep funes of the wood for years. Well perhaps not a “cedar” chest per se, but I do almost feel like I can smell some cedar as well. Weak on longevity and sillage, but other than that a real beauty. I think it’s bottle worthy.
23rd April, 2020