Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Cevenol

Total Reviews: 99

Cedar Woodpecker / 10 by Parle Moi de Parfum

Quite nice, I'm usually not into those super woody niche things, I find them grating after a while, especially since they're most often shock full of IsoE, which I like pretty sparingly. How much Iso is in here I can't tell quite a lot most likely. All's that is listed is cedar and iris and I can't detect anything else really. All in all the cedar and woods are very nicely smoothed out by the iris. It's simple, it works. Well done.
13th June, 2021

Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy

There are three legendary masculines citrus chypres, Pour Monsieur, Eau Sauvage and Monsieur de Givenchy. They are also the three best ones in my opinion. I love Eau Sauvage the most, in part because I was introduced to it in my early teens when all I knew about perfumes where my mother's Number 5, 19 and Arpege. Men around me where not wearing anything, they were hippies that smelled of hearth, hay and sweat, often weed. An antique dealer friend of the family went and fetched it to me as fragrances where discussed and said this is what you need and want. I loved it, the bottle, everything and it became my lifelong signature (before basenotes). I favor it also because of the hedione wash giving it a whimsical, bohemian vaguely mysterious feel.

Monsieur de Givenchy is just as good perhaps better even, it's exactly balanced, longer lasting, perfect. More rooted, more conservative and dependable in a way, classical. And it smells incredible.

Vintage wrap around label
29th May, 2021

Bowling Green by Geoffrey Beene

Yet another member of the 80's class of Drakkar, Nobile, Xeryus, Duc, Smalto etc, but akin to an "Eau Fraiche" type, airier, lighter.. I like the fresh and short lived verbena citrus opening but what really surprised me and pleased me the most was a beautiful jasmine and ambery heart that gave it a sophisticated almost dandish vibe I was not expecting at all, probably from having lived in NYC most of my life and Bowling Green being at the very heart of Wall Street, I was expecting a rigid 80's Michael Douglas boardroom intimidating scent (if a fresh one). There's also a fair amount of spices (clove, bay rum?) in the heart reining in the jasmine and bridging a barbershop impression (hole in the wall one chair next to a shoe shine stall coming down the stars at Wall Street subway stations, so NY)
Really cool and nothing I remember getting from that group, vaguely Havana/ Montana

A beautiful creation

Sanofi vintage, there was Cochran before that seems to have been as good if not better and a more recent EA version described as different but good, to horrid.
28th May, 2021
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Captain Molyneux by Molyneux

When first spraying Captain the first thing I thought was "Hello Paco Rabannes (1973)" they however soon diverge, where PR keeps on its course of a solid aromatic fougere, Captain gradually moves more and more into the airiness of citrus chypres, albeit a very herbal aromatic one (Capucci comes to mind).
Altogether wonderful if for me a bit redundant as I'm well stocked in vintage Paco and have honestly too many (excellent) citrus Chypres. However the longevity, in the iteration I have, is terrible, I'm not a projection beast mode fellow, my passion for the notoriously short lived Eau Sauvage attests to it, but here I'm left wanting more, I will shamelessly steal from a recent review from the good PStoller : The Captain to me "smells like a date that ends in a handshake"
02nd May, 2021

Shalimar Eau de Cologne by Guerlain

Are you a man weary of wearing feminine marketed fragrances but you enjoy Habit Rouge? You can wear this.
On scent alone I think it's more manly , plus I never really warmed up to HR. This I love.
28th April, 2021

Gianfranco Ferré 20 by Gianfranco Ferré

Very true to the scent pyramid listed.
The star here is the absolutely stunning sandalwood.
28th April, 2021

Aqua Velva Ice Blue by Williams

Aqua Velva Ice Blue smells great, it hits all the spots for an old vintage head like me. After shave barber shop first minutes shifting to a surprisingly satisfying chypre soon after that punches way above it's weight.
If I'm ever stranded somewhere, without anything to wear, I'll head out to the nearest supermaket and get me some of this.
07th April, 2021 (last edited: 17th May, 2021)

H24 by Hermès

Citrus and green notes held up by that vaguely metallic hot iron steam aromchem feel that seems to have been most often combined to me with lavender (gris clair), but more etheral. Anchored in the base by soft "woodyambers".
H24 reads as a fresh, minimalist, airy, CKish, pleasant enough ambient smell. It doesn't speak to my tastes at all obviously, if I want freshness I have traditional edc or their heirs (Portofino, Mugler..) or even Narcisse and Gentiane for a well done in house modern twist and for everything else give me 20th century classics.
It is well done and is a departure from all the Blue juices. But the vibe to me sadly is quite dystopian glass and metal condo, plastic wrapped dry cleaner, rooftop garden, IT worker drone.

A good office juice sure to offend no one.
10th March, 2021 (last edited: 02nd May, 2021)

Lavender Extrême by Tom Ford

This is Pour un Homme, Pour un Homme smells good and so does this. You can get and wear PuH, smell great and uphold 80 some years of perfume history, it'll cost you a tenth(!!!) of what this would.
The mind boggles.
Next he'll do Kouros, watch.
09th March, 2021 (last edited: 28th April, 2021)

Le Lion de Chanel by Chanel

Well, the Shalimarity (sorry) is striking, if Wasser had decided to release a Shalimar Intense for Men I have no doubt it could smell like this ( minus the tame Chanel aldehydes maybe).
Particularly close to the EdC concentration, which tones the powder and amps the leather some, if it was nuclearized, as this is very potent.
It's good but who needs this ? Not me, I'm thoroughly happy with Shalimar, it's perfectly unisex and I love its discrete leather just fine. I don't need to blast off like that ever, except when Kouros because of course.
09th March, 2021 (last edited: 28th April, 2021)

Encre Noire à l'Extrême by Lalique

Encre Noire a L'extreme does a pretty good job of Sycomore, at first, and works very well for the first two hours or so. The itch is in the dry down which is straight up ammonia norlimbanol overwhelm to me. It seems woodyambers just hack at my schnoz some special. Many esteemed noses praise it and I will try some more but I think it'll make a nice gift for a friend ultimately.
09th March, 2021

Aqua Allegoria Lavande Velours by Guerlain

Lavande Velours smells antique to me, not old school, 19th century. I imagine fin de siecle parisian horizontales and dandies wearing something like this. Pretty much a violet and lavander soliflore on a subtle woody base. Somehow I have trouble imagining anyone wearing this nowadays, but I do like it a lot, as a room scent, I don't mean it as a put down. It set the perfect mood relaxing at home while reading say, Pierre Louys.
03rd February, 2021 (last edited: 04th February, 2021)

Signoricci / Signoricci 2 by Nina Ricci

Rbaker's review right below me is exactly on point,I have nothing to add. I like it much better than the original Signoricci which is heavier and darker, more autumnal and shares much with Leonard pour Homme of which I'm not a huge fan.
Signoricci 2 became Signoricci again after Signorrici was discontinued. One the great citrus chypes in my opinion and quite unique in the genre as I have nothing that sits close to it in my collection.
29th November, 2020
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Lui by Guerlain

A good take on the spicy carnation vanilla theme. Strikingly similar to Caron 3rd Man, which I prefer due to its 20th century classical construction (and is still in good shape by all accounts and very affordable)
18th November, 2020

Les Déserts d'Orient - Encens Mythique d'Orient by Guerlain

I loved the opening and first half hour, aldehydes combined with rose, saffron and light incense, airy and shimmering, soon a fruity light apricot appears and then it kind of all collapsed into a synthetic mush, supposedly there's real ambergris and moss in the base but it smells like pure ambrox to me and no moss per say. In the beforetimes of IFRA I have a feeling it could have been amazing.

Fuitchouli gets the Desert d'Orient treatment was my takeaway, disapointed
09th November, 2020

Monsieur Carven by Carven

Old school soapy goodness at its finest.
One could wear this all day, every day and smell heavenly. Instead we have Sauvage, dark times.
Sadly, nothing comes remotely close to it in today's market, as far as I know. There are spices at the heart of Monsieur Carven that improbably makes it a "barbershop oriental", with striking similarities to Opium at times (Raymond Chaillant as well, a year before)
06th November, 2020 (last edited: 14th June, 2021)

Paradoxe by Pierre Cardin

Dark Chypre in the style of Magie Noire and La Nuit. More carnation than La Nuit but less of everything else and not as challenging.
It is very good though and a good alternative if you like La Nuit but find it too much.
04th November, 2020

Ténéré by Paco Rabanne

Green, milky sappy, flowery, pissy civetey honeyed. Quirky, on a bed of 80's macho fougere bathroom base.
The flowers make for a great approximation of what a wonderful 80's plastic floral arrangement should smell like as you are scrubbing a bit of cat pee off of the mauve shag carpet.
Weird is good, I like it.
17th August, 2020

Ungaro pour L'Homme II by Ungaro

The top is indeed very reminiscent of Jicky with the lavander,louche civet and vanilla, soon however spices and woods pulls it closer and closer toward oriental territory and away from Jicky's classic (and perhaps seminal) fougere accord and gently but surely toward woody spicy scents such as Chanel PMC, Versace l'Homme, Tiffany PM but where the civet and lavander still stay primarily showcased

Jicky plus wonderfull Cedar and spices makes for a great perfume if not particularly showy initially, it took me a few wears to realize how superlative it actually is.
05th August, 2020

Eau Cendrée by Jacomo

Another spectacular disappeared scent that hits all the right spots for me, classic. Comes out of the gate as a classic fougère a la Monsieur Rochas with the sparkling bergamot lavander duo but soon a leathery ambered sandalwood patchouli asserts itself and pulls the whole composition toward a sensual, refined and almost mystical masculinity of yesteryears. Etienne Aigner I does come to mind indeed.
Absolutely magnificent

03rd August, 2020

Monsieur Léonard by Léonard

Monsieur Leonard is a serviceable aromatic fougere, it's barely there own character being a slight salty twist.
Limp wrist thumb up.
03rd July, 2020

Vétiver by Annick Goutal

A excellent vetiver! With a striking salty marine twist, I'm not a big fan of marine notes and particularly hate it when it's tries to be selling calone in lieu which is thankfully not the case here. Even when really well done as in Sel Marin I'm not really compelled to want to smell of it. Here the salt is very nicely combined with a beautiful vetiver and to my nose it's pretty amazing.
I'm a fan of animalic notes and here the salty woods give me a sensual, bear with me, "tryst in the dunes after a mediterranean swim". The vetiver is also strikingly close to my favourite, Lanvin Vetyver original, where the pissy civet is swapped for sweaty marine salt...

I'll have that thank you!

Vtg pre bar code
02nd July, 2020

Xeryus by Givenchy

Xeryus is a solid, quality, 80's aromatic fougere. It won't break any vintage lover's top 10 but is very pleasant nevertheless. It sits squarely with the Drakkar Noir, Smalto, Nobile, Tsar, Duc, etc...

Nose clearing, bracing opening blast of artemisia and grapefruit toning progressively toward a really classy dark soapy dry down which is my favourite part.
For those maybe familiar with the genre, not as dark and smoky as Smalto but much darker than Nobile, much less sweet and floral than Tsar, closest maybe to vintage Drakkar.

However good Xeryus and all of those are, one can only lament the pretty much truly extinct and perfect Nobile.
01st July, 2020

Arber by Body Shop

I got tricked into trying this by a nice top notes flourish, it was so brief I can't recall much about it, 10 minutes later I was left with a hellish and unbearable mix of "woods" the likes of which seem to grow abundantly in washrooms the world over
22nd June, 2020 (last edited: 18th June, 2021)

Bogart by Jacques Bogart

This one will make you stand straight lads. Stark, dry and direct. In effect a melding of two genres indeed, more immediately a bracing leather green chypre a la Bandit and Cabochard soon melding into an aromatic fougere particularly Paco Rabanne's take on it. The composition is very successfull if raw and uncompromising.
It most likely won't become a favorite of mine as I usually like composition displaying a bit more "pillowness" but I'm glad to have it and wear it with pleasure and it far from breaks the bank.

Pre bar code vintage
16th June, 2020 (last edited: 18th June, 2021)

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Carnal Leather Chypre, pissy a souhait.
Not for the faint
28th May, 2020

Number 3 / Le 3ème Homme / The Third Man by Caron

Ultra classic barbershop powdery fougere beautifully done which in and of itself is a winner in my book, with a carnation/clove spicy accent. You must be good with that as it takes and retains center stage. The magic touch is the jasmine that gives the composition a "romantic," distinguished, classy touch. A tad too sweet on the vanilla in the drydown for my taste but I'm nitpicking.
A winner
A man sporting this together with his Lady in Bellodgia would make quite the intriguing scented pair (for the carnation lovers)

Edt splash pre barcode
28th May, 2020

Polo by Ralph Lauren

What can I say, I don't like Polo, never have. As I have continued exploring scents in the last few years I have learned to find great beauty in many that I didn't like originaly. (If you had put Kouros in my face 7 years ago I would have run out of the building for some fresh air, now my most worn). On paper I should love it, there's few classic 70s 80s fragrance I don't like, and this is a giant among them.I find it lacks any kind of flair and it puts me in a broodingly boring kind of mood. I like pine, I love moss, the culprit I suspect lies somewhere in the aromatic green notes, I can't point it out further as I lack the knowledge to elaborate in this case. The green in Polo conjures to me stagnant, cold, algae filled waters for some reason.
I will keep revisiting.

Vintage mini
28th May, 2020

Florida Water by Murray & Lanman

A pleasant summer splash, cheap as dirt, I pour it into a rag and degrime at the end of the work day (construction). Cologne fresh with a spice cola kick and has the added benefit of keeping bad spirits away.
09th May, 2020

Jicky Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Well, I'll never be without it, that's for sure. This historical scent is still this good after 100 plus years? Amazing.
I don't find it off putting at all, furry, fuzzy, louche lived in lavander vanilla, that fresh/"dirty" dichotomy that I particularly enjoy in many of my favourites Kouros on one end, Eau Sauvage at the other. It completely conjures in scent, to me, the Decadent Mouvement and the Belle Epoque of which time it hails. A scent fitting to sensualist esthetes then and now.
2005 edt
07th May, 2020