Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Cevenol

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Total Reviews: 82

Ténéré by Paco Rabanne

Green, milky sappy, flowery, pissy civetey honeyed. Quirky, on a bed of 80's macho fougere bathroom base.
The flowers make for a great approximation of what a wonderful 80's plastic floral arrangement should smell like as you are scrubbing a bit of cat pee off of the mauve shag carpet.
Weird is good, I like it.
17th August, 2020

Ungaro pour L'Homme II by Ungaro

The top is indeed very reminiscent of Jicky with the lavander,louche civet and vanilla, soon however spices and woods pulls it closer and closer toward oriental territory and away from Jicky's classic (and perhaps seminal) fougere accord and gently but surely toward woody spicy scents such as Chanel PMC, Versace l'Homme, Tiffany PM but where the civet and lavander still stay primarily showcased

Jicky plus wonderfull Cedar and spices makes for a great perfume if not particularly showy initially, it took me a few wears to realize how superlative it actually is.
05th August, 2020

Eau Cendrée by Jacomo

Another spectacular disappeared scent that hits all the right spots for me, classic. Comes out of the gate as a classic fougère a la Monsieur Rochas with the sparkling bergamot lavander duo but soon a leathery ambered sandalwood patchouli asserts itself and pulls the whole composition toward a sensual, refined and almost mystical masculinity of yesteryears. Etienne Aigner I does come to mind indeed.
Absolutely magnificent

03rd August, 2020
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Monsieur Léonard by Léonard

Monsieur Leonard is a serviceable aromatic fougere, it's barely there own character being a slight salty twist.
Pleasant.
Limp wrist thumb up.
03rd July, 2020

Vétiver by Annick Goutal

A excellent vetiver! With a striking salty marine twist, I'm not a big fan of marine notes and particularly hate it when it's tries to be selling calone in lieu which is thankfully not the case here. Even when really well done as in Sel Marin I'm not really compelled to want to smell of it. Here the salt is very nicely combined with a beautiful vetiver and to my nose it's pretty amazing.
I'm a fan of animalic notes and here the salty woods give me a sensual, bear with me, "tryst in the dunes after a mediterranean swim". The vetiver is also strikingly close to my favourite, Lanvin Vetyver original, where the pissy civet is swapped for sweaty marine salt...

I'll have that thank you!

Vtg pre bar code
02nd July, 2020

Xeryus by Givenchy

Xeryus is a solid, quality, 80's aromatic fougere. It won't break any vintage lover's top 10 but is very pleasant nevertheless. It sits squarely with the Drakkar Noir, Smalto, Nobile, Tsar, Duc, etc...

Nose clearing, bracing opening blast of artemisia and grapefruit toning progressively toward a really classy dark soapy dry down which is my favourite part.
For those maybe familiar with the genre, not as dark and smoky as Smalto but much darker than Nobile, much less sweet and floral than Tsar, closest maybe to vintage Drakkar.

However good Xeryus and all of those are, one can only lament the pretty much truly extinct and perfect Nobile.
01st July, 2020

Arber by Body Shop

I got tricked into trying this by a nice top notes flourish, it was so brief I can't recall much about it, 10 minutes later I was left with a hellish and unbearable mix "woods" the likes of which seem to grow abundantly in washrooms the world over
22nd June, 2020 (last edited: 21st June, 2020)

Bogart by Jacques Bogart

This one will make you stand straight lads. Stark, dry and direct. In effect a melding of two genres indeed, to my nose and more immediately a bracing leather green chypre a la Bandit and Cabochard soon melding into an aromatic fougere particularly Paco Rabanne's take on it. The composition is very successfull if raw and uncompromising.
It most likely won't become a favorite of mine as I usually like composition displaying a bit more "pillowness" but I'm glad to have it and wear it with pleasure and it far from breaks the bank.

Pre bar code vintage
16th June, 2020

La Nuit by Paco Rabanne

Carnal Leather Chypre, pissy a souhait.
Not for the faint
Woof!!
28th May, 2020

Number 3 / Le 3ème Homme / The Third Man by Caron

Ultra classic barbershop powdery fougere beautifully done which in and of itself is a winner in my book, with a carnation/clove spicy accent. You must be good with that as it takes and retains center stage. The magic touch is the jasmine that gives the composition a "romantic," distinguished, classy touch. A tad too sweet on the vanilla in the drydown for my taste but I'm nitpicking.
A winner
A man sporting this together with his Lady in Bellodgia would make quite the intriguing scented pair (for the carnation lovers)

Edt splash pre barcode
28th May, 2020

Polo by Ralph Lauren

What can I say, I don't like Polo, never have. As I have continued exploring scents in the last few years I have learned to find great beauty in many that I didn't like originaly. (If you had put Kouros in my face 7 years ago I would have run out of the building for some fresh air, now my most worn). On paper I should love it, there's few classic 70s 80s fragrance I don't like, and this is a giant among them.I find it lacks any kind of flair and it puts me in a broodingly boring kind of mood. I like pine, I love moss, the culprit I suspect lies somewhere in the aromatic green notes, I can't point it out further as I lack the knowledge to elaborate in this case. The green in Polo conjures to me stagnant, cold, algae filled waters for some reason.
I will keep revisiting.

Vintage mini
28th May, 2020

Florida Water by Murray & Lanman

A pleasant summer splash, cheap as dirt, I pour it into a rag and degrime at the end of the work day (construction). Cologne fresh with a spice cola kick and has the added benefit of keeping bad spirits away.
09th May, 2020

Jicky Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

Well, I'll never be without it, that's for sure. This historical scent is still this good after 100 plus years? Amazing.
I don't find it off putting at all, furry, fuzzy, louche lived in lavander vanilla, that fresh/"dirty" dichotomy that I particularly enjoy in many of my favourites Kouros on one end, Eau Sauvage at the other. It completely conjures in scent, to me, the Decadent Mouvement and the Belle Epoque of which time it hails. A scent fitting to sensualist esthetes then and now.
2005 edt
07th May, 2020
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Tsar by Van Cleef & Arpels

I’m shocked to see Tsar discontinued, especially since it's sweet edge masde it much less dated to my nose as many of its aromatic fougere contemporaries. That accounts maybe for how particularly quickly the remaining stock as shot up in price on the aftermarket.
It was is the first scent after Eau Sauvage that I ever purchased. I still have some left from that 89 bottle and it is glorious.
One of the great fougeres of the times. A scent of clean, dependable, steady old school masculinity.

It will be missed
20th March, 2020 (last edited: 04th July, 2020)

Diorissimo Eau de Toilette by Christian Dior

Spring in a bottle, It's the kind of tiresome cliche I roll my eyes three times in it's socket anytime I hear it... But I don't care, here it is, the cliche and the scent.
Maitre Roudnitska
13th March, 2020 (last edited: 07th May, 2020)

Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

One of the greatest olfactive achievements in perfume history, Eau d'Hermes, Eau Sauvage, Kouros, etc..
A few years into the hobby I realize my favourite genre is "sweaty, pissy, furry, dirty". Now looking for the most indolic, indolent, filthily narcotic Jasmine...
11th March, 2020 (last edited: 08th May, 2020)

Miss Balmain by Pierre Balmain

I like Bandit and Cabochard, but after this beauty, not so much anymore. What a scent...
28th February, 2020
29th January, 2020

Fidji by Guy Laroche

I acquired this at a flea in a what the hell it's cheap and smells pretty good from a wrist dab moment and man I'm so happy I did, what a fantastic green floral chypre. I love 19 but sometimes it can be a challenging wear for which you must be ready and dialled in to fully experience, I reach for Fidji instead when I'm in an easy green floral mood. Not to say that they are close relatives aside from beeing green chypres, just a personal, relative impression.
Read the great review below by the very much missed on here Colin for the full picture
Very underated and quite unisex in 2020 as are a lot 20th century feminine chypres that no one wears anymore at all aside from us and sometimes our moms ( Arpege in tha house!)
This is for an EDC vintage, word seems to be it's been eviscerated in current form.
21st December, 2019

Luciano Pavarotti by Luciano Pavarotti

I think this is what hay from the Elysian Fields smells like and I know hay I grew up a farm boy, later all the goodness you can read from our great reviewers below.
22nd October, 2019

Herrera Confidential : Neroli Boheme by Carolina Herrera

The best Neroli use as a center accord outside the Eau de Cologne genre. I wore it twice and has left a lasting impression. I wish I remembered it better so I could elaborate..
Since there's no review I thought I'd just leave this note.
Try it if you get a chance
19th October, 2019

Pour Un Homme by Caron

It took me a long time to arrive at Pour un Homme, it sounded simplistic. Lavender, vanilla? That's it? (that's not it but that's what it boils down to somehow) There was always something that seemed more exciting to be acquired, of course I knew of its reputation and pedigree yet bypassed it over and over. Well, I finally got a bottle (vintage) and the obvious beauty, class, quality made itself instantly clear. Sometimes a new addition to the collection becomes a favourite for awhile but PUH is a "Grand Parfum" without a doubt and belongs to the Pantheon for the 100 plus reasons listed below. Up there with the greatest, I wished I had known years ago..
28th September, 2019

Y Eau de Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent

Smells to me like every other designer right now and not good to boot. Gross synthetic soup
27th September, 2019

Spice Blend by Christian Dior

Pleasant woody spice blend (well yes) with a nice use of woodyambers. I’ll stick to vintage Opium for my spice fix. Spice bland you ask? No it’s very good. It just won’t get my money, but it never does at this price point.

Edit;since my initial wear it's been on my mind and I really want to try it again
29th August, 2019 (last edited: 19th October, 2019)

Paris-Biarritz by Chanel

Bitter grapefruit and laundry musk, very disappointing. Miles away from the exquisite Les Exclusifs Cologne
29th August, 2019

Ambrée Authentique by Mont St Michel

Good ambered classic cologne (cologne russe)
A satisfying french inexpensive cologne, groomed and clean.
In my collection similar to vintage Yardley’s Original Cologne. Not as rich and layered though
27th August, 2019

Boy Chanel by Chanel

I’m a sucker for fougeres, traditional fougeres that is. I also love the unmistakable Chanel touch. Combine the two well..yes please!
14th August, 2019

Animale by Animale Parfums

Really nice Rose Chypre and for the price a small miracle, I don’t know from when the card sample I tried dates but if it’s anything recent color me impressed.
10th August, 2019

Habanita La Cologne by Molinard

I’m truly shocked there’s no reviews for this marvel I just tried. Unmistakably Hananita modernized, it does what eau premiere did for N5. The evolution is delightful, longevity outstanding. The bitterness, the florals (ylang substitutes jasmin) fantastic vanilla. A must smell, far better than any designer feminine new release I’ve tried in years.
07th August, 2019

Replica At the Barber's by Martin Margiela

Not too bad overall, it smells like run of the mill aftershave, no more no less.Something like Skin Bracer or Cool Wave, one of them, and makes this completely unnecessary. I guess it serves its purpose for the image conscious, condo, gym dwellers insta crowd. You could also transfer the cheap, just as good after shave into a nice flacon and print a label at the office, call it Replica Replica At the Barber.
Etonnant non?
22nd June, 2019