Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 1418

Notes of Rosé by Kelly & Jones

Berry-infused rose, with a layer of green herbs, and a touch of lavender. All smothered in a musky suede. Very gentle with one spray. More sprays and it becomes intense. Never ultra heavy though. It won't leave you gob-smacked; it is a satisfactory scent.
05th January, 2021

The Night Garden: Kashmir Musk by Crabtree & Evelyn

A floral-musk combo, heavy on iris, rose, and orris. Mild spices play with the other notes. Musty and dry. Heavy suede, patchouli, and woods drift upward, in time. Fairly well-mixed, easy-to-wear. One of the nicer, later releases from C & E, by a once glorious purveyor of fine soaps and lotions. It has a "designer" feel to it; a casual blend of notes render a comforting feeling, that just makes me smile.
28th December, 2020

Salted Green Mango by Strangers Parfumerie

Tangy, fruit opening. Not bitter, nor sweet. After 15, 20 minutes, more fruitiness arrives. It's gentle and well-blended. A touch of rose adds interest.

Some green notes with a touch of sandalwood shows up later. Kind of salty, too. The opening was great but, the rest sort of stagnated for me and my tastes.
28th December, 2020
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Keni by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Very spicy at first, then it settles into a big blend of resins, incense, and gentle wood. A new-age, "classic" oriental blend. Gotta be smelled to believe. No one note really dominates - notes marry magnificently. Long lasting, to boot!
14th December, 2020

The Vintage Cities: London 1969 by 4160 Tuesdays

Fresh, natural-smelling citrus on top. Tangy, with a touch of sweetness... As the citrus settles, some damp wood emerges. Some light flowers. Not strong at all. It's a light fragrance... Citrus still, hours later, in the background. The base is even lighter to me. Barely there patchouli and labdanum. Not exciting enough for my taste.
14th December, 2020

August by Erik Kormann

Fresh, breezy, summery citrus, that makes me think of somewhere in the Mediterranean, although I've never been there. There's a bit of floral in the mix that shows up intermittently. As it settles, loads of Iso E musk move in. Overall it's a great citrus / musk scent. Easy to wear.
14th December, 2020

Inception by Zarko Perfume

Reminds me of stale aldehydes at first. A bit "off".

Green flowery, green leaves, slightly soapy and muted. Nothing outstanding so far...

Not much for stamina. It fades away to a whisper, not developing much further in character. An almost non-scent. Dull and boring.
03rd December, 2020

Ambre Noir by Brécourt

I'm a fan of cistus so, this already gets a thumbs-up. Mixed with bergamot, if seems kind of boozy to me, like a liqueur.

The middle is a dark floral with the "amber" accord creeping in. It's a bit sweet and a bit bitter, at times. A good mix of notes here. It flows smoothly.

The base in amber in its best form. Well-mixed notes create a sweet, resiny fragrance. If I needed another Amber scent in my collection, this one would be a consideration for purchase... It just gets better with time. A quality scent.
03rd December, 2020

Musk Deer by Zoologist Perfumes

Musty sweetness on top. Spicy, like an incense. The heart has a woodsy-floral aroma, with some raunchy patchouli and labdanum. This fragrance has the "signature" tell of most Zoologist scents. To me, this seems more linear, and mellow, than most others of this house.

The base is woody and dry, like an old wood furniture aroma. Ambrette hovers above the skin.

Overall the top notes are louder than the heart notes or base notes. It has an echo, for lack of a better word, as it settles. One of the least pungent of this house IMO.
25th November, 2020

Eau Qui Pique by Iunx

Very warm, spiced mix. Loads of coriander. Muddled mint. Savory, with a hint of ginger in the background. Coriander remains strong for some time.

Pepper blend moves in later; hints of hot chili pepper and a smell of lightly blanched, red bell pepper. Still, remains savory.

Freshly cut cedarwood, finishes this off, many hours later.

A scent more suited for warm months.
25th November, 2020

Fifth Avenue Nights by Elizabeth Arden

Sweet, vanilla-laden floral.
The flowers are muddled, for me, but, still in the background. Stays sweet throughout its wearing. I get more white chocolate later on as it dries down / wears on. Nothing original, really. You get what you pay for. Typical sweet offering, from the early to mid 2000s.
13th October, 2020

Green Oakmoss by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Sweet, grassy aroma at first. Quickly turns earthy. Blended chaos. Buried florals. Lots of pine needle... Earthiness continues with shades of dark, amber-ish notes: patchouli & labdanum, balanced with hedione & vetiver. Nice! Overview -- notes are muddled and mixed pretty well, if not a somewhat linear fragrance, it's modernistic.
09th October, 2020

Twelve Keys by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Dry, woody, like old wood. Musty. Lavender briefly. Becomes moldy, mildew. Old book smell. Unusual. It's a mish-mash of aromas. A tad bitter, almost savory. Not so much salty but, of a dried herbal, tree nut shell taste. Hard to convey. It's weird. Not sure I like it.

It all becomes woody, still musty, and stays this way for some time.

Old wood, with old oil paint, mixed with old dirt. It becomes more interesting, something I might wear occasionally. A slight, light floral note underneath, close to the skin, which may be orris root.
09th October, 2020
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Assassin by Bud Parfums

Lots of juniper. I also smell elemi. Vague clove and cinnamon notes in the background. It's a sweetish, green-leaf thing. Anyone, could wear this one... A bit of balsam as it settles in... It seems to grow "sweeter" in time. A soft, spicy green. Overall, not bad, nothing spectacular.

Later it smells like the taste, of a hard, crunchy, candy necklace, like the ones still made in the US. Smarties candy, even. An oddball "masculine."
09th October, 2020

Ysatis by Givenchy

From a vintage sample... Kitchen sink, classic fragrance with strong tuberose and jasmine, carnation and ylang ylang opening. Classic floral combo obviously, that I've smelled many time before. comes on strong. I consider this "outdated". I haven't smelled this since way back when but, the sample I procured has remained intact.

The flowers go on and on...

It's a soft, glowing scent later, flowers mute, and has a slightly sweetened animalic and amber-ish accord. Overall, it smells similar to many others created in this general "era". More luxurious and classy though, than some others. Not much new to add that hasn't been noted.
09th October, 2020

Gnosis by Bud Parfums

Berries with vanilla, Tonka and amber. Bergamot-like note in the background. A floral layer sandwiched in between. The berry flavor fades quickly. In time, this scent softens. The florals remain, with a lipstick accord. Mild vanilla-like, somewhat creamy, lurks on the skin. Hours later, it smells of lipstick still, with stronger Tonka bean and vanilla. Somewhat linear but, rather pleasant.
09th October, 2020

Eau Mer by Pekji

Lively, sheer, greenish scent. Not quite citrus-y. Summery. Herbal-vetiver mix is delightful. I don't smell anything oceanic here. It's more like brush, earth, and trees, near a freshwater lake, with a strong breeze. Vetiver, is the darling here.

Most other notes just blend together. A good mix. I do get a pop of lavender now and again.

Vetiver and herbs go on and on.
28th September, 2020

Ugly Bastard by Bud Parfums

Blackest fir; the sap from the tree. It mixes with a chocolate note at first, then after a moment, it's back to just fir. In the background is dark rum with spices. Like potpourri spices. Cloves, black pepper, and red pepper, anise, maybe. Not a note combination I've smelled a lot previously. It's different. Not too "manly".

After an hour or so it falls away to a sweet, resinous amber-like scent. A few hints of fir remain. Started out strong - quickly mellowed out.
28th September, 2020

Zeybek by Pekji

I agree with the initial description for this fragrance - "ambient notes of horses, cigarette, booze, and the sea far away". Sweet hay with bright lavender. Boozy scent of Ouzo. Savory citrus. This is by far one of the best masculine frags I've ever experienced.

I move my arm and I get different notes at different times. Later, I feel this scent actually leans towards unisex - anyone could wear this. Hints of sweetness, tame the hay, leather, and tobacco. This one, is worth a tray. Love it!
22nd September, 2020

Fleur de Lilac by Bud Parfums

Jasmine and ylang ylang straight away. Very floral, slightly green, no sweetness. Turns into an antiseptic or witch hazel-like smell. A light, rotted gardenia aroma... No lilac, do I detect but, at times I smell the illusion of it. It could be the mix of violet, hiacynth, and heliotrope. This fragrance softens with time. The earlier notes turn less greenish, the gardenia, less "rotted".

Hours pass and everything melds together. It's a good floral perfume overall. Smells of spring and early summer gardens. However, nothing out of the ordinary.
22nd September, 2020

Jezebel by Bud Parfums

Muted spices, sweetened, honeyed spic. Vanilla-amber in the background. A dark wood aroma, like mahogany or ebony. Perhaps some labdanum is in this mix or something like it. The spices smell of nutmeg, cloves, and star anise, possibly coriander.

As it mellows it is full-on amber-wood-vanilla, hours later. Autumnal and wintry; smooth and warm.
18th September, 2020

Dubai Black Sapphire by Bond No. 9

Very dark, balsamic, rich. Notes mix well with each other. The rose is bitter, like rotting green stalks. I prefer "Bulgarian rose" over Turkish rose. The rose here, is ugly. However, I am strangely attracted to it. I think the addition of woods and pepper make it tolerable. It's a masculine rose.

Eventually the rose becomes smothered by balsam and benzoin, with a tiny sweetness coming from somewhere (I don't know)... Except for the brief time with bitter rose, this is a good rendition of a dark, balsamic fragrance, although I have smelled many others like it.
18th September, 2020

Burvuvu by January Scent Project

Cedar overdose at first. Smells great! Good amounts of flowers, too. Fizzy patchouli, ginger, and amber. You gotta love rose and wood to wear this one. Eventually I smell fresh, store-bought, potting soil and mushrooms.

I mostly smell cedar throughout the life of the fragrance. Rose and patchouli are still fairly dominant. Hours later I get a dose of the castoreum - not too much, just enough. This frag vaguely reminds of one I already have in my collection. Aramis Calligraphy Rose, maybe - but better!
16th September, 2020

Oolong Mountain Ti by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Concentrated, sweet orange (juice) mixed with a variety of strong tea notes. I'm not a big fan of tea notes but, here, they are excellent. They smell "real". Eventually mixed berry smells and a hint of peach merge with the teas.

Kind of a smoky, musky Tonka later. Mellows out considerably. Overall, an interesting, creative scent. A different take on tea notes. Best tea-centric scent I've ever sampled.
16th September, 2020

Ruh by Pekji

Interesting note combo. For me, the notes bounce off of each other, taking turns revealing themselves. It's dark, smoky, in a way... Smells of various incenses mixed together, burning in some faraway mountain temple in the forest, I imagine. It softens, melds beautifully. I enjoy it more as it wears on.

Smells like creamier later, if that makes any sense. No one note overpowers the other. Magnificent blend!
16th September, 2020

Cuir Beurre by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Earthy mushroom aroma, with a sweet resinous smell. Lots and lots of smoky, dry wood flavor. Also, a sweetness like coconut. A touch of something oceanic.

Stays linear after some time, with its amber-y, smoke wood aroma. The ending reminds of some sort of dessert syrup... The opening was much more fun, different.
05th September, 2020

Purple Love Smoke by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Candied violets. Tobacco smoke but not of cigarettes - more like sweet pipe tobacco. At times I swear I smell leather. Must be the birch tar... Dry combo of violets, orris butter, heliotrope, and violet leaf join in the heap of tobacco flavor.

Spicy cinnamon-like note. Tiny bit of starch close to the skin. Vanilla-ambrette combo later, creates an amber-like accord... Fragrance starts out strong, robust, middle is dry, powdery, floral, and the base is a pungent, comforting amber tone. Well constructed to my mind. Fun and elegant at the same time. I enjoy this one.
05th September, 2020

Odoon by Pekji

Pine forest green. Slight barnyard, urine-soaked hay / straw smell. Very resinous. Lots of screechy wood smells. It might be a challenge to wear in public - I don't know.... Pine sap, and an accord I can't describe. Stays resinous with a somewhat sweet, balsamic vinegar note. It's kind of earthy as well. I like it. Pine tar-y, guaiac wood is what I think confuses my nose at times. Overall, it's very good.
05th September, 2020

Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Saharienne by Yves Saint Laurent

Crisp citrus. Grapefruit; maybe some tangerine. Slowly flows into a sweet, orange blossom aroma, with tart herbs in the distance. Neroli, with its slight metallic nuance, stands side by side with the other notes. This frag starts out juicy, then turns drier. Straight up citrus classification. Never sickly sweet, only has a hint.

In time, musk softens what bitterness is here at times. Overall, not bad. It's a rather typical citrus scent.
01st September, 2020

Vanillaville by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Delightful! A mix of sweet spice and tobacco. A candy vanilla. The flowers smell of a bouquet one might bring to a baby shower (party). Soft, delicate... I definitely smell smoke, like a campfire.

Next, I get a mish-mash of earthy, honeyed, and resinous notes, always with hints of vanilla. The top is different from the finish. It goes from dry gentle to a more warm floral base. Very enjoyable.
01st September, 2020