Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 1397

Dubai Black Sapphire by Bond No. 9

Very dark, balsamic, rich. Notes mix well with each other. The rose is bitter, like rotting green stalks. I prefer "Bulgarian rose" over Turkish rose. The rose here, is ugly. However, I am strangely attracted to it. I think the addition of woods and pepper make it tolerable. It's a masculine rose.

Eventually the rose becomes smothered by balsam and benzoin, with a tiny sweetness coming from somewhere (I don't know)... Except for the brief time with bitter rose, this is a good rendition of a dark, balsamic fragrance, although I have smelled many others like it.
18th September, 2020

Burvuvu by January Scent Project

Cedar overdose at first. Smells great! Good amounts of flowers, too. Fizzy patchouli, ginger, and amber. You gotta love rose and wood to wear this one. Eventually I smell fresh, store-bought, potting soil and mushrooms.

I mostly smell cedar throughout the life of the fragrance. Rose and patchouli are still fairly dominant. Hours later I get a dose of the castoreum - not too much, just enough. This frag vaguely reminds of one I already have in my collection. Aramis Calligraphy Rose, maybe - but better!
16th September, 2020

Oolong Mountain Ti by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Concentrated, sweet orange (juice) mixed with a variety of strong tea notes. I'm not a big fan of tea notes but, here, they are excellent. They smell "real". Eventually mixed berry smells and a hint of peach merge with the teas.

Kind of a smoky, musky Tonka later. Mellows out considerably. Overall, an interesting, creative scent. A different take on tea notes. Best tea-centric scent I've ever sampled.
16th September, 2020
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Ruh by Pekji

Interesting note combo. For me, the notes bounce off of each other, taking turns revealing themselves. It's dark, smoky, in a way... Smells of various incenses mixed together, burning in some faraway mountain temple in the forest, I imagine. It softens, melds beautifully. I enjoy it more as it wears on.

Smells like creamier later, if that makes any sense. No one note overpowers the other. Magnificent blend!
16th September, 2020

Cuir Beurre by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Earthy mushroom aroma, with a sweet resinous smell. Lots and lots of smoky, dry wood flavor. Also, a sweetness like coconut. A touch of something oceanic.

Stays linear after some time, with its amber-y, smoke wood aroma. The ending reminds of some sort of dessert syrup... The opening was much more fun, different.
05th September, 2020

Purple Love Smoke by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Candied violets. Tobacco smoke but not of cigarettes - more like sweet pipe tobacco. At times I swear I smell leather. Must be the birch tar... Dry combo of violets, orris butter, heliotrope, and violet leaf join in the heap of tobacco flavor.

Spicy cinnamon-like note. Tiny bit of starch close to the skin. Vanilla-ambrette combo later, creates an amber-like accord... Fragrance starts out strong, robust, middle is dry, powdery, floral, and the base is a pungent, comforting amber tone. Well constructed to my mind. Fun and elegant at the same time. I enjoy this one.
05th September, 2020

Odoon by Pekji

Pine forest green. Slight barnyard, urine-soaked hay / straw smell. Very resinous. Lots of screechy wood smells. It might be a challenge to wear in public - I don't know.... Pine sap, and an accord I can't describe. Stays resinous with a somewhat sweet, balsamic vinegar note. It's kind of earthy as well. I like it. Pine tar-y, guaiac wood is what I think confuses my nose at times. Overall, it's very good.
05th September, 2020

Le Vestiaire des Parfums : Saharienne by Yves Saint Laurent

Crisp citrus. Grapefruit; maybe some tangerine. Slowly flows into a sweet, orange blossom aroma, with tart herbs in the distance. Neroli, with its slight metallic nuance, stands side by side with the other notes. This frag starts out juicy, then turns drier. Straight up citrus classification. Never sickly sweet, only has a hint.

In time, musk softens what bitterness is here at times. Overall, not bad. It's a rather typical citrus scent.
01st September, 2020

Vanillaville by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Delightful! A mix of sweet spice and tobacco. A candy vanilla. The flowers smell of a bouquet one might bring to a baby shower (party). Soft, delicate... I definitely smell smoke, like a campfire.

Next, I get a mish-mash of earthy, honeyed, and resinous notes, always with hints of vanilla. The top is different from the finish. It goes from dry gentle to a more warm floral base. Very enjoyable.
01st September, 2020

Violets & Rainwater by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Fragranced water poured over old books, stored in a damp cellar. Slight fruit smell. Apple, with a ghostly violet. Smells light for awhile - not ever heavy... A brief watery note. Settles in to a musk mallow, patchouli base. Floral, vanilla bits. Never grows stronger beyond the initial first impression. Would be appropriate for work, as such.
01st September, 2020

Koala by Zoologist Perfumes

Non-medicinal eucalyptus; I mean, it's there but, made more flowery-aromatic with the addition of mimosa. Bright and fresh, like a breeze. Nicely blended notes, deviously disguised. Greens blend with florals. Incense and spices sit close to the skin.

Middle layer flows effortlessly into the base. Still aromatic with bits of sweetness, greenish woods. It's like standing under a tall canopy of trees, on a humid day, with a full-on breeze; musty, earth notes, rising up. Easy to wear. Very pleasant.
01st September, 2020

Vanille Insensée by Atelier Cologne

Vanilla-infused turpentine. Musty, moldy antique wood furniture. I like it... I'd say this is a rather dark, woody vanilla, bordering on boozy at times. This house rarely impresses me. I find their fragrances rather mainstream, pedestrian, or boring. This one, intrigues me.

Wooden vanilla fades into a creamy, almost ice cream flavor later on, with sprinkles of pencil shavings. Ha! An unusual vanilla scent for sure...
01st September, 2020

Noir Premier : Rose Royale 1935 by Lalique

Barely there fruits. They are smothered by rose... Hints of honeyed osmanthus, with a little apricot. Not a heavy nor strong perfume at all IMO.

Rose flows into the base and mixes with a somewhat dull base, of fabric softener wood and musk. Wearable but, not exciting.
01st September, 2020
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Journey Woman by Amouage

Jasmine almost smothers the apricot and osmanthus notes. Sometimes, they are barely there. I get something nutty, underneath... Jasmine turns almost boozy, with hints of honey. This, is one of the better jasmine scents I've smelled. It's a note I can take or leave usually.

I enjoy it. I would've like more osmantus, more apricot. Anyway, the base is mellow, with a smattering of vanilla-musk and bits of a smoky spice... Jasmine sambac lingers forever.
15th August, 2020

Eiderantler by January Scent Project

Floral green. Wet greens. Sweet green notes. Odd greens that turn sour, bitter... It mellows with time. Continues with its variety of bouncing greenies, a pop of powdered sugar, and fresh hewn hay.

Close to the skin I smell a starchy note and a bit, of fir. The base is very soft, cloudy. Hints of wood and a vague laundry-soap musk. The greens fade and carry on awhile. I wish, there were more fir...

Hours later a sweet, creamy wood thing.

Pleasant, but not FB worthy.
15th August, 2020

Dinudisit (Sea Flowers) by January Scent Project

Intense, sort of sweet flowers. Big narcissus note. Lots of fresh, herbal smells. Light, ocean breeze. Unique, so far... Moves into a mossy, earthy mode, with flowers, still in the air. Celery seed pops up now and then adding to the herbal feel.

The dark greenish, mossy mood continues, with a tinge of honeyed beeswax. The amber / patchouli isn't strong as in a traditional oriental accord. It's more of a compliment, like a woody incense. Always, with an herbal feel.

A bit more resinous-green hours later, with a slight ozonic, electrical fizz, with lovely vetiver. Well done!
15th August, 2020

Truth Beauty Freedom Love by 4160 Tuesdays

Sweet, pipe tobacco blend. Ultra dried hay. Perfumey, delicate iris. Apricot syrup or jam. A sugary lip gloss accord. Notes flow from one to the next. Very feminine.

Begins to remind me of a strawberry lip gloss I once owned. Merged notes, mix with musk and florals and apricot, confusing my nose and brain, like a psychedelic trip. It's a beauty!

Candied violets... No wood with any discernable aroma, do I smell.

Overall, a delicious candy-gloss dominate fragrance. It's a happy scent!
08th August, 2020

Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain

Smells like creamy, vanilla ice cream or a fluffy whipped cupcake icing for awhile. In the background, a mysterious incense blend with a resinous beat.

The vanilla crumbles to an icy powder, mixed with vague rose... Muted flowers. It stays a vanilla-resinous thing for a long time... Vanilla wrapped in benzoin, with a hint of spiced rum.

Overall, it's a good vanilla scent for which I'm glad I finally tried it.
08th August, 2020

Armani Privé Rose d'Arabie L'Or du Désert by Giorgio Armani

The swirly gold barely shimmers on skin.

All the notes blend smoothly, one after the other. Elegant. Not too much of any one note, for most of its life. Not too heavy. Very dry.

Yes, yet another rose-oud thing. It IS well done. I wouldn't pay top dollar for a full bottle, as I have many similar frags like this.

The "ending" much later becomes rather powdery with hints of something sugary and more floral. Ends a bit differently than other rose-oud oriented scents.
08th August, 2020

Blackberry & Bay by Jo Malone

Refreshing fruit. Citrusy. Green herbal layer in the background. A sweet berry thing mixed in. Spring flower notes bounce around in the background.

The fruit fades away. Remains floral. It's unassuming and rather matronly. The base is very lid. Leafy and herbal green, with a hint of soapiness. It's pleasant. Too pricey for what it is IMO.
08th August, 2020

Serin by January Scent Project

Smoke. Old wood. Old rose. Something syrupy-sweet. It reminds me of something smelled on an autumn day from my past. Dark rooms in a museum. It has an old world elegance about it. Notes meld smoothly. A fall-like bouquet of flowers mixed with a resin / balsamic / herbal feel. Sweetened mint. Burning sage.

Herbaceous later on, with a chypre-feeling. It seems to have honey or butter layer close to the skin. Masterful!
08th August, 2020

Muntaha by Syed Junaid Alam

Strong oud, mixed with cedar, to start with. It settles in moments, with an aroma of mixed amber and rose. It's a creamy amber and musk blend, as well... More strong oud later - it drowns out the other notes. Good, all around Middle Eastern scent.
29th July, 2020

Ardent by Boadicea the Victorious

This, is the first, I've tried anything by this house. I figured by the notes listed, I'd enjoy it. I wasn't wrong. The spicy, saffron-rose combo has been done to death, but I am always a fan. The top is dry, soft. The rose is sweetened by hedione and beeswax. Definitely leans feminine.

A vanilla, resinous-amber base. Nothing out of the ordinary here. A milder rose-saffron offering.
29th July, 2020

Coffee & Cocoa by For Strange Women

It is, what it is - a very realistic, mocha coffee scent. Pure gourmand. Not too loud, not sugary sweet, just right... A dark, roasted coffee bean smell, closer to the skin, later on.
29th July, 2020

Aeromancy by Sixteen92

A light, dusty dry, floral note. Airy. I'm reminded of fruit tree blossoms.

Fresh cut, damp wood or bark. Smells of dried, sweet leaves. A dark floral note hangs in the air. It's kind of an ozonic rose.

This begins as an ethereal scent and proceeds to become more perfumey over time, as in something from the 70s.
22nd July, 2020

Skymning by Svensk Parfym

A fairly linear scent. Powdery dry, slightly green iris and violet. No sweetness here. Pure flower... Earthy, damp musk... Slight animal skank much later.
22nd July, 2020

Egypt by Eight & Bob

A good beginning. Masculine to start, for me. Nothing out of the ordinary. Changes a bit after the first few minutes. It gets better. Spicy and resinous, it melds with lavender, at times almost eliminating it.

Resin-y goodness continues in the base. Touch of leather. Nothing overly stands out but, I really enjoy it nonetheless. Lasts forever.
22nd July, 2020

Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Masculine citrus. Sour, breeze-like. Slight ocean breeze vibe. Piercing, almost bitter vetiver. Just a touch of rosy, pink pepper. Elegantly blended. The top flows into the heart effortlessly. I enjoy this!

Bits of spice and mint stand out at times. The base is smooth incense and woods. I'd enjoy this on my man. Well done!
22nd July, 2020

Vanilla Vetiver by Note Fragrances

I am not having very good luck with this house...

Vanilla, straight away. Lemony. Jasmine is pronounced for awhile. But, it doesn't last long.

Vanilla looms over every other note, drowning. I get a barely there, warm sandalwood in the base. Another linear, scent from this house. Sad...
19th July, 2020

My Shadow on the Wall by Floraïku

Three and a half stars.

Smells like milk chocolate, of all things [violet leaf?]. What a delightful, confusing surprise! Moments later, starchy mimosa. And, what appears as an unsalted, un-buttered, popcorn kernel aroma...

Violet leaf returns, with its faint chocolate aroma.

Only a slight sandalwood scent, do I smell. This one, confuses...
19th July, 2020