Perfume Reviews

Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Total Reviews: 1435

My Most Meaningful Relationships by Filigree Parfums

Saturated with petrichor and vetiver. It has a dry, medicinal vibe. Also, "greenish". Stays linear and steady, for its life on my skin. Lasts 10 and more hours. Heavy sillage.
17th July, 2021

Francis Black by Filigree Parfums

Spicy coffee with a tinge of coconut smell. Warm. Well-made. Cedar smells freshly cut. Vanilla, not too sweet. I like this one...
17th July, 2021

Tales of Us by Filigree Parfums

Extremely bitter at first. Flowers are skanky, indolic, annoyingly rank. This borders on rotting green things, on my skin... Mellowed a bit in 2 hours. Still, yuck! Scrubber. A rare negative review for me.
17th July, 2021
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Notget by Filigree Parfums

Briney, sea-animalic, musty, like mold or mildew. Stale tonic water. Very strong. Artsy but, not wearable for me.
17th July, 2021

Orchid Noir by Note Fragrances

Smells like candied flowers, sugared orchids. Berry fruitiness; slightly nutty, like walnuts or walnut wood. Perhaps the cocoa is throwing me off. Anyway, it's a good smell... Later on, more fruit, then vanilla. Orchid flows from the top, the heart, all the way through to the base. It never leaves. I eventually recognize the cocoa, mixed with patchouli and a musky note.

Overall, this reminds me greatly of Orchid Soleil by Tom Ford. Not exact but, close. One of the better fragrances by this house.
29th June, 2021

Tom Ford Noir pour Femme by Tom Ford

Very "perfume-y". Subtle citrus and spice. Well-mixed flowers. Typical vanilla-amber base. Overall it's well made but, I have had / tried many fragrances like this, with similar "notes". Too expensive for what it is. It IS enjoyable which is why I give it a positive rating.
29th June, 2021

C'est La Vie by Christian Lacroix

Full on florals. Loads of tuberose, ylang ylang, and jasmine. Has a waxy, lipstick accord at times. It has a musky, bar soap smell, too, that comes and goes. A little spiciness underneath... Woody, vanilla base much later. Love, love it! One of the best 90s fragrances made.
29th June, 2021

Rhinoceros (2020) by Zoologist Perfumes

Comes in at a roaring pace, with intense, dark notes. It is a hot wind of manly smoke, stale whiskey, water-soaked horse-hide, and damp tobacco leaves, all rammed together. But, I over-sprayed with 5 spritzes, so, maybe that was too much for an initial impression?...

Later... incense note smells of raw, punk, incense sticks lit on a summer's day... Becomes slightly floral, later. Has a Far Eastern accord, as it mellows; settles on the skin.

Amber accord, many hours later...

Good stuff! I did not compare this to the original. Separate observation, as I enjoyed the first as well.
19th May, 2021

Black Opium Eau de Toilette by Yves Saint Laurent

Very similar to the EDP - fruitier, this "formula". Heart is still sweet, after the initial top blast of notes. It's vaguely floral in the middle, with a hint of watered-down coffee... Pale, woody base. Not a favorite.
19th May, 2021

Seveline - Vanille Patchouli by Laurence Dumont

A simple vanilla-patchouli scent. Light enough for wearing at any time of the year. It's not mind-blowingly brilliant. It's soft, not too sweet, good enough for when you want a diet patchouli.
16th May, 2021

Sì by Giorgio Armani

Powdery fruit. Run-of-the-mill flowers. Not one of Ms. Nagel's finer creations. Probably more popular with the novice-sampler crowd. I'm just spoiled and more particular with my florals.

The base is a little better - soft woods, with a breath of sweetness. Overall - fair.
27th April, 2021

Honey Blossom by Note Fragrances

Sweet, spicy citrus in the beginning. It flows into a floral blend I've not smelled in awhile. It's retro - like fragrances of the past; something from the late 80s. It's balanced. It borders on fruity-floral, barely. I generally dislike geranium. Here, the "geranium" note is proportioned well with the other notes.

Powdery incense, in time. Still, with lots of honeyed-geranium in the mix. Overall, a comforting scent. The best from this house thus far. Full bottle worthy!
24th April, 2021

Love Story by Chloé

Lovely, lively, linear floral scent. Linear, in the sense that it is well-blended. I am unable to pick out individual notes so far.

Slight 70s style musk, with vague wood later on. Not a fave, nor a failure. Just so-so.
24th April, 2021
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Snowy Owl by Zoologist Perfumes

Heavy, outdoorsy aroma. Reminds me of a cold, foggy day, after a wet snowfall... Musty and "cold". I wished I smelled more coconut or mint... The dense cloud slowly lifts to reveal an earthy iris note. Other notes are very well blended, for now, in the heart. So far, nothing sweet or overly flowery. Still, an earthy scent, to my nose.

A few hours later, perfume-y galbanum and pale incense emerge. And still, it is cold to me although it becomes milder. Some muskiness, in time.

The least "intense" of all the Zoologist scents I've tried. I'd wear this any month, maybe less so in summer.
19th March, 2021

Dali Haute Parfumerie : Regard Scintillant de Mille Beautés by Salvador Dali

The notes meld into one sharp melody. No sweetness or powderyness here. It reminds me of something I've owned before. Vaguely animalic over time. Ends in a woody-rose profile. Leans unisex to me. A rose scent one could wear at the workplace without annoying anyone. Gentle.
04th March, 2021

Illicit by Jimmy Choo

Honey-sweet, girlish thing. I've smelled many, similar to this. To me, it smells pretty much gourmand, especially with the caramel note... Toss in some powdery florals later, and it makes a "safe" fragrance but, still ordinary.
28th January, 2021

Lolita Lempicka Eau de Minuit 2009 by Lolita Lempicka

Smells like the other eau de Minuit flankers, with just a touch more ivy and violet.
24th January, 2021

Notes of Rosé by Kelly & Jones

Berry-infused rose, with a layer of green herbs, and a touch of lavender. All smothered in a musky suede. Very gentle with one spray. More sprays and it becomes intense. Never ultra heavy though. It won't leave you gob-smacked; it is a satisfactory scent.
05th January, 2021

The Night Garden: Kashmir Musk by Crabtree & Evelyn

A floral-musk combo, heavy on iris, rose, and orris. Mild spices play with the other notes. Musty and dry. Heavy suede, patchouli, and woods drift upward, in time. Fairly well-mixed, easy-to-wear. One of the nicer, later releases from C & E, by a once glorious purveyor of fine soaps and lotions. It has a "designer" feel to it; a casual blend of notes render a comforting feeling, that just makes me smile.
28th December, 2020

Salted Green Mango by Strangers Parfumerie

Tangy, fruit opening. Not bitter, nor sweet. After 15, 20 minutes, more fruitiness arrives. It's gentle and well-blended. A touch of rose adds interest.

Some green notes with a touch of sandalwood shows up later. Kind of salty, too. The opening was great but, the rest sort of stagnated for me and my tastes.
28th December, 2020

Keni by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Very spicy at first, then it settles into a big blend of resins, incense, and gentle wood. A new-age, "classic" oriental blend. Gotta be smelled to believe. No one note really dominates - notes marry magnificently. Long lasting, to boot!
14th December, 2020

The Vintage Cities: London 1969 by 4160 Tuesdays

Fresh, natural-smelling citrus on top. Tangy, with a touch of sweetness... As the citrus settles, some damp wood emerges. Some light flowers. Not strong at all. It's a light fragrance... Citrus still, hours later, in the background. The base is even lighter to me. Barely there patchouli and labdanum. Not exciting enough for my taste.
14th December, 2020

August by Erik Kormann

Fresh, breezy, summery citrus, that makes me think of somewhere in the Mediterranean, although I've never been there. There's a bit of floral in the mix that shows up intermittently. As it settles, loads of Iso E musk move in. Overall it's a great citrus / musk scent. Easy to wear.
14th December, 2020

Inception by Zarko Perfume

Reminds me of stale aldehydes at first. A bit "off".

Green flowery, green leaves, slightly soapy and muted. Nothing outstanding so far...

Not much for stamina. It fades away to a whisper, not developing much further in character. An almost non-scent. Dull and boring.
03rd December, 2020

Ambre Noir by Brécourt

I'm a fan of cistus so, this already gets a thumbs-up. Mixed with bergamot, if seems kind of boozy to me, like a liqueur.

The middle is a dark floral with the "amber" accord creeping in. It's a bit sweet and a bit bitter, at times. A good mix of notes here. It flows smoothly.

The base in amber in its best form. Well-mixed notes create a sweet, resiny fragrance. If I needed another Amber scent in my collection, this one would be a consideration for purchase... It just gets better with time. A quality scent.
03rd December, 2020

Musk Deer by Zoologist Perfumes

Musty sweetness on top. Spicy, like an incense. The heart has a woodsy-floral aroma, with some raunchy patchouli and labdanum. This fragrance has the "signature" tell of most Zoologist scents. To me, this seems more linear, and mellow, than most others of this house.

The base is woody and dry, like an old wood furniture aroma. Ambrette hovers above the skin.

Overall the top notes are louder than the heart notes or base notes. It has an echo, for lack of a better word, as it settles. One of the least pungent of this house IMO.
25th November, 2020

Eau Qui Pique by Iunx

Very warm, spiced mix. Loads of coriander. Muddled mint. Savory, with a hint of ginger in the background. Coriander remains strong for some time.

Pepper blend moves in later; hints of hot chili pepper and a smell of lightly blanched, red bell pepper. Still, remains savory.

Freshly cut cedarwood, finishes this off, many hours later.

A scent more suited for warm months.
25th November, 2020

Fifth Avenue Nights by Elizabeth Arden

Sweet, vanilla-laden floral.
The flowers are muddled, for me, but, still in the background. Stays sweet throughout its wearing. I get more white chocolate later on as it dries down / wears on. Nothing original, really. You get what you pay for. Typical sweet offering, from the early to mid 2000s.
13th October, 2020

Green Oakmoss by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Sweet, grassy aroma at first. Quickly turns earthy. Blended chaos. Buried florals. Lots of pine needle... Earthiness continues with shades of dark, amber-ish notes: patchouli & labdanum, balanced with hedione & vetiver. Nice! Overview -- notes are muddled and mixed pretty well, if not a somewhat linear fragrance, it's modernistic.
09th October, 2020

Twelve Keys by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

Dry, woody, like old wood. Musty. Lavender briefly. Becomes moldy, mildew. Old book smell. Unusual. It's a mish-mash of aromas. A tad bitter, almost savory. Not so much salty but, of a dried herbal, tree nut shell taste. Hard to convey. It's weird. Not sure I like it.

It all becomes woody, still musty, and stays this way for some time.

Old wood, with old oil paint, mixed with old dirt. It becomes more interesting, something I might wear occasionally. A slight, light floral note underneath, close to the skin, which may be orris root.
09th October, 2020