Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Constantine

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Total Reviews: 253

Bulgari pour Homme Soir by Bulgari

Masculine and subtle.
Starts of fresh spicy unique, tea flower and wood with a hint of sweetness and settles down to a more subtle wearable version of the already excellent Michaelef Gaiac Wood lasting for hours with subtle but noticeable projection.
How many times have I used the word 'subtle' ? That is all true power and taste needs in order to be outstanding.
Anytime anywhere signature fragrance.
FBW and I did.

Fragrance: 8/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
24th September, 2020

Idole Eau de Parfum by Lubin

Nice enough but to quote from Dervant:

'Idole Edp is finally a less complex and more syrupy superfluous variation of the original Idole Edt'

Thats correct. This reminds me slightly of the outstanding Amouage Journey Man and Miller Harris Etui Noir. At least it begins to but fails to develop into any interest or depth.
At best you can use this as a safe work fragrance if you are keen to wear this spicy incense tobacco vibe to work.
Move along.
19th September, 2020

Lost by Miller Harris

My wife loves this on me so you know where this is going already.
Rhubarb rose petals blackcurrant amber fairly linear after the bergamot blast at the beginning. Great longevity. I can sense it wafting up to me for hours.
The tartness of the rhubarb just about pulls it from feminine to unisex and for me this is a very nice contrast to my politically incorrect masculine fragrances, a warm weather one to relax with and did I mention my wife loves it?
This could be my 3rd FBW from Miller Harris the other two being Feuilles de Tabac and Etui Noir.

Incidentally the ultra feminine version of this which has the BEST photorealistic florals is Tender.
10th September, 2020
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1828 Jules Verne by Histoires de Parfums

Lovely fresh cool and clean masculine fragrance.
Eucalyptus, grapefruit, pepper, vetiver and cloves with the first three prominent and tangerine waving its hand occasionally.
The initial fresh blast settles to clean and cool slightly peppery.
Outstanding. Different enough to be a signature scent.
This can be used on almost any occasion but for me will be my warm weather scent.
FBW and I just did. I am glad. HdP have had several near misses for me. eg Fidelis and Memoires of a Trespasser.

Fragrance: 8/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
26th August, 2020

Tender by Miller Harris

Firstly this is not unisex.
It is the most beautiful photorealistic floral you can possibly imagine.
Linear and lasts.
The only reason a guy may wear this is because it smells so good you will get all the ladies swooning and asking you what you are wearing.
26th August, 2020

Gaïac by Martine Micallef

Staggeringly good masculine subtle woody fragrance.
It is exactly what it says. Gaiac wood gentle clean but with some depth (as opposed to the Tom Ford version) of vetiver and a hint of vanilla and cloves. Linear and lasts.
Signature and FBW.

Fragrance: 8.5/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 7.75/10
26th August, 2020

Feuilles de Tabac by Miller Harris

Second staggeringly good Miller Harris I have tried.
Think green fresh tobacco leaf. Subtle, masculine rather than unisex and stays fairly linear. Tobacco, touch of amber and pine and tonka.
Why would people criticise this for not being stronger or the fragrance they wanted it to be?
It is a superb wearable subtle masculine fragrance suitable for almost any occasion.
Bought 100ml bottle. Enough said.

Fragrance: 8.25/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
20th August, 2020

Étui Noir by Miller Harris

I agree with Suspended's review.
This is staggeringly good.
Leather, incense, vetiver all finely blended producing a relatively subtle yet good projection and longevity aroma gradually becoming more smoky and woody over time.
This is the best leather incense fragrance I have tried bearing in mind I like something that is wearable and takes on the character of the wearer rather than owns the wearer. Leans masculine.

Fragrance: 8.5/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
18th August, 2020

Century by Dunhill

Grapefruit cardamom musk sandalwood are the notes I get with the usual fresh opening and settling down after the citrus burns off to linear for the next few hours. Actually very nice. Generic with a twist this could he a budget signature scent. I was really surprised by this one!

Fragrance: 7.25/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.75/10
13th August, 2020

Spice Blend by Christian Dior

This smells like cheap nail varnish. Something is really off putting , a balsamic melony vibe. I remember reading a review of Dior's trio of vetiver tonka, spice blend and amber. The summary was that these are fairly airy diaphanous without much substance and could have done with more depth.
I agree. The vetiver tonka barely makes it to vetiver tonka status and to think you are paying over £200 for a bottle . Absurd. The Spice Blend is quite frankly embarassing to be seen with and should be flushed down the toilet, the Amber is actually a nice light dry amber and if you like that kind of thing is not bad at all but it leans feminine instead of unisex so this trio are an expensive washout for me.
12th August, 2020

Sunshine Man by Amouage

This is Amouage's take on Roja Dove's Risque. Its worrying nobody else has spotted this. More so for me as I have clearly sniffed far too much in my relatively short time here. It is identical but slightly more woody (masculine) and less subtle.
Simply put Risque is Peach and vetiver and Sunshine man is peach and cedar.
From memory Risque made me think long and hard before turning it down. This would be a thumbs down as well but perhaps I need to live and let live now I am climbing after hundreds of samples onto an enlightened plain of understanding and accept that perhaps this is what the perfumer wanted to achieve and if so then it is done masterfully and indeed some people would even wear it. Definitely not a heterosexual male though. This is confident young woman territory fairly broad in application less so for work but definitely pleasure smart or casual. That's why as a guy you will get compliments because ladies will smell it and like it for themselves not because they are interested in its wearer.
Do I get a graduation prize?
05th August, 2020

Prada Olfactories : Cargo de Nuit by Prada

A real disappointment.
Sharp surgical spirit opening which must be what others describe as very fresh settling quickly to a subtle yet cloyingly feminine flowery almond. This must be what some describe as 'cosy'.
There are two you tube reviews, one describes it as an uninteresting let down and the other raves about how fresh and fabulous it is. One is clearly honest and one fake.
If you are a lady this may do. I you are a guy you have been warned.
30th July, 2020

Infusion d'Homme by Prada

An exceptionally nice powdery soap vibe after a zingy opening. If this is what you want to achieve then this is highly recommended.
For me there needs to be slightly more depth. Afterall Infusion de l'homme does not immediatley conjure up images of powdery soap. Prada have fiddled with this by creating the Vetiver and Iris Cedre but the mistake they make is these make it more unisex rather than adding interesting body. The former smells of grapefruit, and its very nice for what it is but what man really wants to smell of grapefruit especially for an 'homme flanker and its called vetiver, and the latter is insipid and instantly forgetable.
Prada missed an opportunity of creating an iconic male fresh fragrance. Incidentally Cargo de Nuit that is eulogised so often is a complete flop opening with a burst of surgical spirit rapidly drying down to cloyingly feminine. There are two youtube reviews of CdN. One appears honest, the second is clearly fake.
I am going to commit the ultimate sin and trying layering. MY idea is Roja Vetiver Cologne and see what I get. Anyone want to join me?

Fragrance: 8/10 as powdery soap but it misses the spot as a fresh male fragrance which is what it purports to be.
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
30th July, 2020
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Infusion d'Iris Cèdre by Prada

Instantly forgettable leaning to the feminine and such would be fine as a fresh feminine fragrance leaning to the unisex.
Just get Iris and neroli and a touch of incense. Cedar may be hiding in there somewhere but it party pooped for me. Projects and lasts several hours.
Inoffensive.

Fragrance: 6.75/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 8/10
24th July, 2020

Interlude Black Iris Man by Amouage

This is Interlude Man dialed down slightly.
That's it.
The smell is delicious and spicy treacle although for my taste its still overpowering and indeed the name Black Iris makes no pretensions of pulling any punches.
What we need is an Interlude Man Sport or in Amouage Speak: Blue Iris.

Fragrance: 7/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
24th July, 2020

Goodman's by Roja Dove

This is a perfectly nice fresh leaning masculine fragrance which at first comes across as very nice indeed and had me considering FBW ness . Citrus with Cedar vetiver cinammon. Fantastic. It lasts the whole day as well which is really unusual and beat my number one slot of Scandal Parfum pour Homme in this regard. But something kept annoying me. Reading the notes it is the mandarin essence. It ruined it for me. Sorry this gets a neutral.
So close. so close Roja. But Scandal and Vetiver Parfums are still my No 1 and 2 respectively.

Fragrance: 6.75/10 ... and then there is the price!!!
Projection: 8.5/10
Longevity: 9.5/10
06th July, 2020

Vetiver pour Homme Cologne by Roja Dove

Paradoxically you get more projection from this than from the EDP but they are not cut of the same cloth. This smells relatively cheap and fresh and even synthetic.
I have smelt 4 of these Colognes. Vetiver and Scandal are disasters. Enigma is the same just with a fresher opening and Danger is the triumph. Depth and more wearable, lighter and more enjoyable than the EDP.

Avoid the Vetiver.
18th June, 2020

Oceania by Roja Dove

The opening is fizzy and fresh and tart and leaning to the masculine. Exactly according to the scent notes. Grapefruit, lime, mandarin but with a cedar and vetiver base. A masterwork! This is going to be one of my few immediate FBW moments ....but then my hopes of me and my Roja Oceania conquering the world together start seeping away as it becomes a more feminine sharp floral orange. Almost like an expensive room spray. Nothing wrong with that except at these prices it is more unibomber than unisex.
A nice fresh summer feminine perfume. Another casualty of identity politics and politically correct nonsense of our times where even politicians are tethered zombies of the media and much more so perfume houses. Roja has lost the plot recently. Danger and especially Scandal Homme Parfums (less so EDP) are all time greats yet they are replaced by H exclusive or even worse Harrods Exclusive and now.... this. At least we have Vetiver Pour Homme Parfum (EDP and Extrait are nice but weak) which if I only had to own one men's fragrance, this would be it.
11th June, 2020

H - The Exclusive Parfum pour Homme by Roja Dove

This is a high quality dirty skanky rotting orange which almost makes you wince for the first half hour becoming slightly more woody but never losing that abrasive nostril twitch inducing whiff of unpleasantness (or not according to your taste!)

For me this is almost a scrubber but Hermes and Cartier also have there offerings in this genre so there must be some kind of customer demand. Phew.

Fragrance: 7/10 all round including quality otherwise 5/10 for smell
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
09th June, 2020

H – The Exclusive Aoud by Roja Dove

This is the first time I have copied and pasted but I am honoured to acknowledge the prefect description from my fellow basenoter:

A gut-punch of spicy-agarwood goodness that is yet again meant for the most discriminating of fragrance lovers (read: not for casually interested folks).

Simply put this is strong and heavy and not very wearable either for the person or the occasion. That's not to say it does not smell nice but there are many out there that do what this does better for more of the time for more people and with more value to quote President Lincoln. Or maybe President Lincoln's original quote is more accurate here as well if you think Roja are having a laugh with their price!
03rd June, 2020

Harrods Homme by Roja Dove

Pour Homme? Depressingly so in these metrosexual politically correct times.
This manages to be a floral aquatic with some peppery bite.
It is so well blended, so harmonious that you don't mind smelling it for that reason until you realise the title is misrepresentation. If you wanted to smell like a woman you'd look for a feminine leaning unisex or one for women. Then it starts being cloying.
So nice smell but not if you want something that lives up to Harrods Pour Homme. A reluctant thumbs down. A neutral to up if it was given a more gender appropriate title. The sheer quality can't make up for the fact that this is just an excellent version of "nice". And at these prices etc etc...

And to think they discontinued Scandal pour Homme. What planet are they on?
03rd June, 2020

Fougère Emeraude by Les Indémodables

This may be listed as unisex but to me this is a wonderful subtle feminine fragrance with a clear rose vibe with sage and tonka.
Very nice indeed. It starts with a bit more of a sharp zing which suggests a guy could pull it off but it quickly settles and finds its feminine side.
But not for me. Its not even metrosexual.

For ladies:
Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8/10
18th May, 2020

Orion by Tiziana Terenzi

Aventus smells like piss du chat on me. It's a risk of introducing pineapple essence into the mix. Orion on the other hand is delightful. Bright light but with all day staying power. It's pineapple smelt from a distance so its not sweet with some redcurrant birch and musk and after a zingy opening its fairly linear.If I had not bought a large bottle of Green Irish Tweed (which has more bite presence and is more masculine) yesterday this would be on my FBW radar. Perhaps....

Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 8/10
Longevity: 8.5/10
22nd April, 2020

Tobacco Oud by Tom Ford

The best description here from Mistertaz albeit making this sound more interesting than it actually is, is :" a dry smoky spiced amber" and that it's fairly linear. In reality it is subtle if not insipid and unidimensional.
This is supposed to be Tobacco Oud. Do we have tobacco or oud here? No. Is the joke on us after the invoice? Yes.
I have since obtained another decant from a reputable source.
It smells completely different and I get mild tobacco and oud but nothing special or particularly interesting but its not amber.
The ebay seller for my first decant is: bedavi-416 you have been warned.

Fragrance: 6.75/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
14th April, 2020 (last edited: 20th April, 2020)

Bois d’Hiver by Ex Nihilo

I have tried 9 of these and they are either vacuous freshies or share a common heavy base and are not inspiring at all.
This is the only one I would consider as even slightly wearable. It is almost exactly like Lalique Encore Noire sport, in fact slightly better as it is a touch more subtle and has great longevity.

Fragrance: 6.9/10 : It just dribbles over the line to a thumbs up
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7.5/10
03rd March, 2020

Prison Blues by Ideo Parfumeurs

There is nothing wrong with this at all. I am sure some will give it a thumbs up.
Citrusy, woody, peppery with a fresh promising open then settling down to a shade above generic.
Initially I liked it on the opening but then the freshness went and I stopped liking it. But did not dislike it. Just would not wear it.
I suspect that offering 50% discount and free shipping on their website plus 10% off a next order is still slightly overpriced unless you like it.

Fragrance: 6.8/10
Projection: 7.5/10
Longevity: 7/10
21st February, 2020

Ombre Nomade by Louis Vuitton

This is nice. But not a crowd pleaser. It is a very subtle incense leather bitter chocolaty masculine fragrance, always staying very close to the skin but once you get there it has satisfying depth. It is so subtle that you think its a skin scent until you try smelling a different part of your skin and then discover that the fragrance is actually melding with your chemistry and producing a cocoon of class and masculinity.
The only similarity to Nouveau Monde is the fact that these both appear quite gentle but have surprising strength and duration. NM is fresher and lighter and woodier without incense.
That said if you have both of these then they should suffice for all your fragrance needs.

Fragrance: 7.75/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
17th February, 2020

Sandor 70’s by Carner Barcelona

Neutral for a man, thumbs up for a lady. Just.
This is a spicy oriental a la Amouage Journey Man, Memoires of a Trespasser Imaginary Authors, Histoire des Parfums 1740, Roja Fate Man , Zoologist Camel, Jovoy les Jeux Sont Faites.
These 5 are : candyfloss sweet, boiled sweet sweet, tobacco, a heavy one, leather, woody.
For me the best of the lot is 1740. Outstanding.
This one starts off as it could be a contender. Not sweet and slightly more subtle, less tobacco but slowly it morphs into a sweeter rubbery amber fragrance which is nice enough, not very masculine but would suit some ladies.
1740 it is then. FBW.

Fragrance: 7/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 8/10
10th February, 2020

The Night by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Intensely rubbery and faecal for about 30 minutes so that you wince then settles into a rapidly dwindling mild Oud.
And to think this is the same brand that came up with the stunning French Lover.
Who would have thought.
Promise has no clear application apart from perhaps an oddity in the Tate Modern and Moon is redundant.
Someone at FM has lost the plot.

Fragrance: 5/10
Projection: 6/10
Longevity: 5/10
08th February, 2020

Traversée du Bosphore by L'Artisan Parfumeur

I agree with Kain about the positive reviews.
Sweet, sour, medicinal floral effeminate mess of notes.
A scrubber.

Fragrance: 5.75/10
Projection: 7/10
Longevity: 7.5/10 -unfortunately
08th February, 2020