Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Rick58 & Beth62

Total Reviews: 27

Canfield Cedar by Kerosene

It's true to its name - cedar, and not much else. Associations with a hamster cage are unavoidable.
03rd December, 2020

Bee by Zoologist Perfumes

Reading reviews of Bee, both here and the other site which shall remain nameless, the only thing thatís consistent is how wildly inconsistent everyoneís impressions are.

First off, Zoologist Perfume sprayers are the very best Iíve seen. A micro-fine mist that lasts long enough to cover you, throat to bellybutton with a single push, as if it were under pressure.

Iím happily getting all the notes, I love them all. Beautifully distinctive. A few other reviews hint around the edges of a referenced accord with genteel phrases like "not quite anamalic, but......" Or, "I *think thereís a hint of cat pee in there?í

Iím going to come right out and say it. Clean ladybits.
23rd October, 2020 (last edited: 24th October, 2020)

Love & Crime by Ex Idolo

I love gourmands, so this is right up my alley. This would not appeal to anyone who is wishy-washy or fence sits on the subject of sweet perfumes. I find the citrus/sweet/floral balances in equal measure, the cocoa only comes forward once the mandarin orange top note blows off. I like it, but Iím a vanilla fan and I enjoy floral vanilla fragrances. This is very similar to Xerjoff Casamoratti Lira. I bought both at Lucky Scent, Lira 30ml is $105, Love & Crime 30 ml is $120, so they are in the same price range. Iím going to test them side-by-side tomorrow, but my first instinct tells me if you have one, having both would be redundant.

Iíll edit this review if I find that last supposition untrue.
14th October, 2020
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Fidelis by Histoires de Parfums

It appears Iíll be the only nay vote. Iím not getting any distinct notes, only the aftermath of a house fire - smoldering upholstery, hot electrical wiring and incinerated fiberglass insulation. I experienced the same visceral reaction to Purple Love Smoke by Soivohle.
11th September, 2020

Les Exceptions : Ambre Redoutable by Thierry Mugler

Pedestrian. I donít dislike it. I am, however, bored by it. Love or hate a fragrance, be confused or bewildered - all legitimate reactions. But a yawn is just not acceptable.
Starts out just amber with a touch of violet and runs linear. First hint of woods peeks out at ~2 hour mark. Thatís it. Nothing more.
28th August, 2020

Cuir de Russie Eau de Parfum by Chanel

Iím on a big leather bender these days. This leather is soft and lovely. The qualities of the ylang + jasmine + aldehyde blend in this reminds me very much of how Patou balanced on the same tightrope with Joy. Not that the two frags smell at all alike. They donít. But they certainly share a sensibility. Just a hint of anamalic Iíd characterize as kitty pee, but Iím a city girl - I wouldnít know barnyard if it bit me.
11th August, 2020

1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums

Many thumbs up for this blind buy (thank you, ClaireV, AKA Priscilla Queen of the Desert). ClaireVís review is spot-on so all I will do is give it a hearty second, and say I really enjoy this gem. Who knew old lost lipstick could smell so fun?
30th July, 2020

Levant by Ormonde Jayne

After a neutral paper test, I gave this a proper wearing today. I found the opening unpleasant and damp-smelling. Iím struggling to rectify the short notes list comprised of 4 florals with the wet, sour and vaguely citrus experience this scent delivers on my skin. I like a good challenge as much as any BNíer but Iím having a difficult time grasping the creatorís intent.
30th July, 2020

Contre Bombarde 32 by Sauf

Deeply reminiscent of the wooden pews of an old church, warmed by centuries of butts. Slightly papery, but the dryness balances wonderfully with the judicious use of vanilla.

I really like this....

Edit: Tried this on Rick today. Stunning. He smells hymnals, incense and church pew wood.
21st July, 2020 (last edited: 16th August, 2020)

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla by Dame Perfumery

Black Flower Mexican Vanilla is absolutely gorgeous. The vanilla is paired beautifully with the florals and the hint of nutmeg is lovely. The sandalwood and patchouli provide a beautiful backdrop. A stunning vanilla without slipping into sweet. I'm not picking up the citrus, and that's ok - I have Shalimar for that. I was looking for a slightly-floral vanilla and I've found it.

This is a beautifully-woven fragrance.

Thank you ClaireV - you're my heroine!
07th July, 2020 (last edited: 08th July, 2020)

Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford

Thereís a blatant dirty note in this - Iím surprised itís not mentioned more. The first time I tested this on skin, I even went to my kitchen spice rack in the hopes I could identify this almost-but-not-quite sweaty smell. No dice - thyme smells totally different. Iím not able to discern any raspberry (or any other fruity note), no jasmine, either. As it dries down, it becomes very petrochemical and finally I get a clear peek at the leather. The black leather is hard, nothing soft or suede-like (I ride a Harley, and my black leather reference is the smell of my riding chaps). The gasoline smell eventually slides away to leave leather standing alone. Iíve tried this several times now and the conclusion Iíve arrived at is the drydown (just ok, not great) isnít worth what I have to endure to get there.
28th June, 2020

Mťharťes by L'Erbolario

What a lovely cheapie! Iím tickled pink when fragrances deliver beyond their price tag.

Iíll let this one stand on its own, waving off the MR comparisons and say that the warm spicy-sweet nature of this little figgy/nutty/cinnamon gem make it an easy one for me to love. Generally, I find top notes something that must be endured, rarely enjoyed. I am one of those perfume lovers that lives for the dry down. On me, this is very linear, it seems to launch straight into the end game and I love it for that.
11th June, 2020

Santal de Kandy by Boucheron

Lovely! I prefer fragrances that put woods or spices in the drivers seat and let the florals ride shotgun. To me, this is a beautiful sandalwood-first scent. The jasmine doesnít completely drown the violet, which is a pleasant surprise. Iím not picking up the black pepper but thatís no disappointment. Thereís no disappointment anywhere. The cedar is very laid back and blends well with the sandalwood after a few hours.

And glory hallelujah, I finally found a fragrance that my skin doesnít devour in 2 hours or less. Iím very tickled by this one.
27th May, 2020
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Twelve Keys by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

This is..... interesting. Iím getting lavender and a bit of clover right off, and maybe the star anise? This is very difficult to tease apart. The wood accord seems tightly bound to another note I canít identify, to a very chilly effect. Towards the end, the sparest hint benzoin that never develops.

This is a challenging fragrance that is fun on paper.
26th May, 2020

Cabotine by GrŤs

On my skin, the projection of this stuff is positively nuclear, I canít decide if I like it or hate it, itís too loud to hear anything clearly.

But.... on my husband itís not loud or screeching, something is blending into a note thatís reminiscent of lily of the valley cold process soap. A neutral rating seems fair, I suspect this fragrance performs very differently on different skin types so Iím keeping an open mind on this cheapie.
27th March, 2020

With Love by Guerlain

I never met a Guerlain I didn't like, so this was a safe blind buy for me.
Not quite what I am accustomed to but a lovely scent none the less. I like rose, and looking at this pyramid, I have NO idea where the rose is coming from but it is most definitely there. This is a soft, airy, feminine fragrance, perfect for springtime.
26th March, 2020

Velvet Noir by Oscar de la Renta

I have never met an Oscar De La Renta I liked enough to consider wearing, but I was initially surprised by this one. My first test strip held onto a cold, airy note, which led me to a skin test. Unfortunately, that lovely chilly note disappeared almost immediately on my skin. Iím rarely attracted to top notes, and I generally view them as sort of a loss leader.

The drydown is a little staid, nothing brave or original. The middle is comprised of a generic pseudo-rose/amber, vaguely sweet. The rose drops off and little snippets of musk and wood are apparent in the empty spaces and provides just a hint of warmth.

Given the price point, I could recommend this to someone whoís not interested in sharp, edgy or challenging. I think the fragrance would have appealed to me more if it maintained the cooler elements it began with, giving it some consistency across time. If I had to place it into a slice of daily life, Iíd say itís a scent that pairs well with jeans and comfortable flat shoes while running errands.
22nd March, 2020

Gold Sugar by Aquolina

To say itís sweet is painfully obvious, but once it mellowed I could smell each of the notes. They donít blend, rather each stand motionless, side by side in an odd, orderly fashion. I think coconut is the only note in here I donít like, or maybe psychologically I keep expecting an almond that never materializes.
21st March, 2020

Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas / Idylle Love Blossom by Guerlain

Lovely...... A very true and faithful lilac scent and it has enough depth to keep it from being too bouncy. I wore it today for the first official day of spring.
21st March, 2020

Vanille Ambre by Comptoir Sud Pacifique

I am a vanilla lover in all its forms - sweetened, unsweetened, paired with woods, spices, fruits and flowers - I love them all. Almost. Unfortunately, I find this fragrance very chemical, very unnatural-smelling. This doesn't smell like any real vanilla to my nose.
19th March, 2020

Cuir Beurre by Soivohle (Liz Zorn)

My fourth test of this fragrance and I am not able to pick up many of the listed notes. Despite the name and all the ingredients that are credited as leathery, leather seems to take a back seat to smoke. This is predominately smoky (likely from the choya nakh, but I don't have a reference for that aside from written descriptions), and a very strong birch and tar accord. A tiny hint of amber, maybe from the choya ral? If there is vanilla here, I am not able to suss it out - a sad thing for me as I am a diehard vanilla lover.
13th March, 2020

5th Avenue Royale by Elizabeth Arden

Itís simple, itís cheap and itís not pretentious. The raspberry on top is fleeting, and thatís ok - a nice, easy suede is what Iím left with. It hangs very close to the skin so Iím tempted to try this with a bit of Iso E Super, just for fun, to see if I canít push the projection envelope a bit.
08th March, 2020

Midnight Rain by La Prairie

Very sweet - the fruits come off as raspberry to me. I totally see the previous poster who made the connection to one of the CK Euphoria flankers. I can't say much about the dry-down as it doesn't last long enough on me to have an opinion. I find myself wearing it occasionally for daytime when I don't care who smells me and what conclusions they might draw from my fragrance choice. It's teenager fun stuff, nothing serious or sexy, just over-the-top fruit salad. My youngest daughter is just getting into scent, I might bestow a decant on her with a 1-spray rule.

I think if I'd tried this in a store (and saw the retail price) I'd have passed this up without any remorse. However, I tripped onto it (unopened) at a garage sale. And for a few bucks, I figured I could afford to be wrong.
02nd March, 2020

Kenzo Amour by Kenzo

On me, this is a scrubber. Plastic, chemical, horrid. There's a weird chemical/medical smell that is tickling something in my memory bank that I can't quite pull into conscious recall but I've smelled this before, one of those "I opened a box from _____ and smelled THIS smell." I get no florals, no spice, and nothing edible (referencing the rice notes in the pyramid) just something that reminds me of a manufacturing process.
05th February, 2020

Velvet Orchid LumiŤre by Tom Ford

I think Rick likes this on me more than I like it on me. Itís ostensibly a lightweight version of the 2014 TFVO. I have only a vague recollection of the forerunner from a 2-hour duty-free sniffing marathon in Heathrow Airport, killing a layover. It seems very bullish on the jasmine and rose to my nose, completely swamping the top notes, sending any bergamot or mandarin running for cover. I was sure it radiated out 15 feet in all directions, not a positive trait moving amongst Łber-sensitive Denverites who are convinced their wet labradoodle is utterly charming and welcomed in any restaurant, but are equally convinced perfume wearers are slashing their lifespan by half. I got several nods of approval over the course of the day so I can only assume the projection matches what everyone expects from Tom Ford but not quite as nuclear as Iíd feared.

Iím not picking up much of the sweet accords that generates so many polarized reviews of the original TFVO. Several hours in, the sandalwood appears, clinging onto the rose. Sorry to say the vanilla is MIA, I was hoping for a touch of something warm, a bit of sweetness but apparently not.
27th January, 2020

…meraude by Coty

This was my momís signature scent through the 60ís and the 70ís, right up to the moment she received her first bottle of Opium. Iím sure this was better back in its heyday, but I donít judge a scent based on my (possibly faulty) memory. I judge the scent under my nose. I still love It, even todayís drugstore cheap-o. Rather than disrespect it for what itís lost, I love it for what it still has - a nice drydown and nice memories.
08th January, 2020 (last edited: 12th January, 2020)

Libre by Yves Saint Laurent

I expected I would love this fragrance, and was exceedingly confused by my reaction to my first wearing. Upon purchase, I opened it and sprayed both wrists and neck. The mental image I was slammed with for the next several hours was that of a large orchestra, all tuning their individual instruments with the volume knob at 11. That was 6 weeks ago.

In an effort to better understand it, Iím writing this review with a single drop on the back of my hand. Within the first 10 minutes, Iím finding the top notes of black current, neroli and mandarin are unable to assert themselves with any impact, pushed rudely aside by jasmine and a strong, soapy lavender. 60 minutes later the screechy aspect seems to be slowly backing down, a touch of warmth tentatively rising to the surface. Iím hoping for vanilla but I have my doubts.

Cedar and vanilla blend well toward the 3 hour mark and the shrieking aspect has subsided. A faint, vague sweetness has emerged at 5 hours, but zero projection, I am pressing my nose to my hand now. The lavender is still present but now just a barely audible hum.

Final thoughts: The drydown is enjoyable but Iím unwilling to tolerate the fragrance to get there. Because it has a long finish that smooths out significantly better than I originally predicted, I feel itís only fair to offer a neutral rating.

05th January, 2020 (last edited: 12th January, 2020)