Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Archaeolibris

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Total Reviews: 2

Burberry London for Men by Burberry

I confess, I am a bit of a niche perfume snot. I tend not to give highly commercial fragrances much of a chance for fear of being doused by a counter attendant in headache-inducing, 90%-diesel-fuel EDT's that reek mostly of expensive and clueless desperation . . . BUT . . . I was so pleasantly surprised by Burberry London.

It's a laced-up fragrance with a sophisticated and contemporary twist. Right out of the bottle you get a really soft green bergamot and a sagey-dry lavender, soft powdered leather, like Victorian frangiapanni gloves, but with a lot of elegant structure from the sweet tobacco and oakmoss on the bottom. I absolutely love the wonderful solar tobacco accord in this scent which stays on loud and proud through the dry down-- all 6 or so hours of it. It is so warm and bronzed that it almost reads as black tea. The silage is good but not amazing-- not a problem for me since I like to wear scent that stays close to the skin, and I find London to be one of those scents that you wouldn't want to catch wind of unless you were close enough to be dancing, it really requires that underlying warmth of human skin to come off at its best.

My skin tends to sweeten scents that are a bit more masculine, and this scent could be very masculine on some, but I am a woman (who loves ballsy leathery scents and unisex chypres) and I feel very confident wearing this scent out in a elegant vintage 30's dress. It's intellectual but just dissident enough to be both serious and a bit iconoclastic. Some have raved about the port wine note, but it's truly not very prominent on me-- it is not the least bit boozy. I would mention, too that while it seems at first to be a cool-weather favorite, the woody tobacco and mimosa in the drydown actually make it comfortable for warmer weather, it has a bit of a sun-baked dried-hayfield in it, especially when you're warm yourself.

04th May, 2010

Kinmokusei by Ayala Moriel

This is a stunning work and a shimmeringly complex soliflore. It opens with a hypnotic and nectary note that on me smells a bit like the pulp of a fresh fig, this quickly gives way to the very wet and almost cedary osmanthus at its core, and here I can certainly detect the green tea mentioned above. This finally settles into a sweet young tabacco. The whole thing feels dripping wet and foggy. Though on me the citrusy notes that others seem to have picked out are present but far more muted.

I normally will never wear a floral perfume though I appreciate them, gravitating instead to more masculine leathery, green and woody accords (I am a woman who wears Un Homme de Caron as a staple fragrance), but I intend to buy a whole bottle of this-- it is just a beautifully crafted scent. What strikes me most is the balance of the composition: neither too sweet nor too bitter, too floral or too amber, it is undeniably feminine but darkly so. The scent pools in your throat and lungs in a way that's difficult to give words to, except to say that it is precisely the opposite of how the heady and bubbly florals I destest strike my palate. I agree with the first reviewer here that there is something deeply contemplative about it. It is all mystery-- osmanthus plucked by moonlight.

I also found that the dry-down takes on a very different character on different places on my body. On the wrist it lingers florally a while longer, whereas on the neck or chest it cleves to the tabacco basenotes--pleasent either way.
31st March, 2009