Perfume Reviews

Reviews by DuNezDeBuzier

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Total Reviews: 161

MAAI by Bogue Profumo

In the home office I share with the better half there is a framed picture of the October ’68 cover of Couture magazine hanging prominently… a beautiful woman modeling a monarch butterfly dress that is simply stunning.

I’ve gotten lost in that picture more than once and each time I wonder what I’d do with that particular form of perfection if I had it in my hands. Where would we go? What would we do? Who’d be around?

Thoughts quickly flitter to the same end, I snap to, and get on back to the life I live. There’s no dispiriting sigh. It simply is what it is.

MAAI – a stunning floral bouquet wrapped in animalic resins.

Classic sights and classic smells do intersect from time to time! Outstanding as it is though this one is similarly not for me. It’s for my favorite robe from time to time and it’s for THAT Lady in THAT dress, pollinating my imagination from time to time.

Give me one ping… one ping only!

p.s. ... from a decant of the initial iteration, I believe.
05th May, 2020 (last edited: 02nd September, 2020)

Un Homme by Charles Jourdan

I once bought some Blend 30 from a generous chap who sent along a nice bit of Jourdan Un Homme.

This, that, and vintage Azzaro pH are the epitome of the masculine aromatic fougere standard set back in the late 70s (to me, at least). If you like the anisic quality turned up to high volume... check some old Captain Molyneux as well.
12th November, 2019

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne

Old school. Mine's an '08 bottle.

Spicy Geranium. Mossy-honeyed-musk to it, remindful of King Kouros at times. Soapy. Versatile.

An undeniable stalwart in masculine fragrance history.
16th October, 2019
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Santalum by Profumum

After assaulting my wallet, Santalum climbs into the front seat, riding shotgun to Santal Noble. Sandalo's in the back seat all by itself. So many in the rear view mirror. Sandalwood and a moonlit drive.
10th October, 2019

Homme de Grès by Grès

Wondering, is Homme de Grès a better fresh leather variant of Eau Sauvage than the actual flanker Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir itself?

Perhaps.
28th May, 2019

Hermèssence Santal Massoïa by Hermès

I don't think I care much for figgy mixes: Had Good Life, meh; Had Dune pH, respect it but never wore it; Close to draining a 4ml wonky tube sample of SM that's simply tubular in its whispy, high-pitch, lactonic, coco-nutty, figgy & sandal-woody ride. Interesting, exceptional, yet prohibitively expensive for me (but perhaps not thee).

p.s. Awesome on M'Lady!
08th April, 2019

Eau Noire Cologne by Christian Dior

I don't much care for gourmands and I don't at all like the everlasting maple syrup character of over-loaded immortelle (vis a vis Sables). That said, Eau Noire comes real close to this point of no return and simply stops. I can't explain it, but the result, the space it occupies, its vibe... is unique, kind of dark, something I'd expect to be radiating off my favored tragically hip musicians & artists, and thereby fit for any of us average superstars as well.

I associate Eau Noire with a holiday nut roll; specifically, the dark filling which (in my family) usually means some dark nougatty combination of walnut, molasses, praline, etc. But Eau Noire's not just nut roll filling... there's dark spice, dark bitter chocolate, dark over-roasted ground coffee bean, and a little anise too. Come to think of it, I'd say it's a much more refined cousin to MPG Eau de Isles of sorts.

Tempered immortelle in a dark gourmand. I like.
06th March, 2019

Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

This is (also) my favorite version of Habit Rouge. I have the Beau Cavalier edition. I don't usually care much about bottles but, once in my hands and with light shining through, this one's clever.

HR with smoothed edges and a dense vanillary. Formal wear. Cool/cold weather.
22nd February, 2019

Gucci pour Homme by Gucci

THE standard cedar (pencil shavings, yes), pepper and incense. If you like things like that, this is a good one to like. Secondary market price inflation since its discontinuation clearly reflect it.
21st February, 2019

Norne by Slumberhouse

The most recent neg review nails it: thick pine sap molasses with big clove sitting somewhere in the pine barrens and on fire. Great description, although I'm not real sure it's on fire. Nevertheless, the good doctor didn't care for that smell at all. It's quirky, yes, but when the time is right... Vive le Slumberhouse!
19th February, 2019

Sex Appeal for Men by Jovan

Meh, not bad, not great. If I'd have received it as a father's day gift 20 years ago or whatever, I certainly wouldn't have binned it. But that's the problem with delving deeper into fragrance as a hobby, no? You quickly learn there are levels of superior choices beyond what was once considered fine and good.

This is a Pierre Cardin doppleganger and not too far removed from the likes of Old Spice. Aldehydes & spice with a bit of amber. I much prefer those with a rougher personality from the category, like Equipage, Havana, and Montana pd'h.
18th February, 2019

Ungaro pour L'Homme I by Ungaro

Definitely one worth the effort to at least try.

I get a low-key yet distinct cedarwood throughout, not a loud pencil shavings type cedar. That, and as others have said: a sugar-cane, rum-like sweetness; dark fruit, almost rotting; tobac, like in a inexpensive drugstore flavored cigarillo. Close to the skin. Pensive. Somber. Dark. Not like dracula-dirtnap dark, but moreso like the stereotypical well-dressed, well-mannered, proprietor / patriarch of the local funeral home kinda dark.

Great stuff but no versatility with my lifestyle this day and age.
18th February, 2019

Moustache by Rochas

As I do with others, pls take my comments with a big grain of salt for they're obviously more about my perceptions and less about the actual juice itself. That said, the two or three differently sourced helpings of the great Moustache <ribbed bottle> I've indulged in over the last half dozen years or so have always left me with the same thought: dreck. Is it the age? Is is the mix? Is it some of both? Don't know, and at this point in the hobby, I don't really care, but I do get aldheyde, I do get a pissy honey, and I do get a little burnt sugar. I don't care for that combination when it's fresh, either. Certainly not with a citrus-prominent.

I dig the classics and will stick with old Eau Sauvage, YSL pH, Homme de Gres, and others to get my citrus on.
18th February, 2019
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Acqua di Selva by Visconti di Modrone

Conifer-centric fougere. Opens with a plastic lime and quickly moves into pine + 4711 territory. Blink too slow and you'll miss it. Good for a barbershop I guess if they can get it at wholesale type pricing, sloppy splash and all, but for me there are better values currently out there in Pino Silvestre and Puig's Aqua Brava I think.

From a 6.8 oz Visconti Di Modrone bottle.
13th February, 2019

Incense Pure by Sonoma Scent Studio

To me it's a linear, dense, syrupy sweet amber, with noticeable resins and frankincense. A choke-out risk for its sweetness, I use it like an attar.
03rd February, 2019

Fireside Intense by Sonoma Scent Studio

Goes on smokey with a slight meatiness. There's something, amber spicy (think kitchen - cumin, fenugreek,) kind of a thick molasses sensation that soon joins up and leads throughout... must be nagarmotha's contribution... coming off to me as a well-blended immortelle (i.e. no pancake syrup here!). The rest of the ride is just that. Linear. Ghostly reappearances. All done in a good way. Wears like a lite attar.

If Tommy Chong were my buddy, this type scent wouldn't be a bad gift for my buddy.

From a "7/2010 dated" sample.
01st February, 2019

Homage Attar by Amouage

Homage & Tribute, Tribute & Homage... BAWK!!!

'Bout as close to one another as a hawk to the moon Alice! I must've not been listening close enough though and tried and tried. Homage simply did not let me in.

Yada, Yada, Something about me in a dream being emperor of new clothes, smellin' like green rose and jasmine, and wondering whether I'd appreciate it any more if it were wafting off my queen and not thee.

Oh well, different strokes I guess... and it's entirely probable this old-school wet-shaver is doing it wrong.
27th January, 2019

Patchouli 24 by Le Labo

"Holy Smoke Batman!"

"NO. Holy L-I-Q-U-I-D S-M-O-K-E(TM) Boy Wonder!"

If'n you're into the eclectic, into everlasting birch tar leather that'll floor some butts if you overdo it... if'n so, check some.
24th January, 2019 (last edited: 16th September, 2019)

Cacharel pour L'Homme by Cacharel

Whispy light citrusy nutmeg throughout for maybe 4-6hrs, with the first 15 minutes remindful of Fruit Loops... cereally! Are minor cogs of vetiver, clean musk, and cedar part of the machinery? Sure, why not. Nothing floral to talk about.

Gotta like nutmeg or I wouldn't bother.

Making my way through the last of my 7.5ml minis. I much prefer Dunhill Edition for these kitchen spicy types... more moving parts, more longevity and more heft. Fans of vetiver and this Cacheral would probably like L'Occitane's Vetyver as well, I'd think.
15th January, 2019

Derby by Guerlain

To the recent forum question "If you could do it all over again..." the enthusiast with thousands of bottles in collection, with decades of experience, and with over a quarter million postings, responded with but a single word: "Derby".

Well, let THAT sink in like the sports rub you used to borrow from your Dad's medicine cabinet.

Probably means something, I would think, and not a bad answer at all, I do think... Eagles & Bees... One of the absolute greats!

09th December, 2018 (last edited: 08th March, 2019)

Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

Moschino pH: spice, leather, moss, amber, resins, with a bit of cedar. The amber is dense and pungent, not syrupy and sweet. It all comes off as a solid, low-broadcasting, scent that a professional type might wear while doing professional type stuff.

Moschino overlaps moreso with Fetish pH <parfum> which overlaps moreso with M which overlaps moreso with BelAmi <older vintage>... to me. This grouping is top shelf and satisfies this guy like no other.
16th April, 2018

Black No. 1 / Blackbird by House of Matriarch

Blackbird.

Take some Black Afgano, Puredistance M, Bulgari Black, Interlude, and L'air d'Marocain. Mix together and give a good shake. Would it approximate the smell of Blackbird? Dunno, but I've thought about it.

Blackbird has its ashy, amber, and oily aspects (e.g. think small machine lubricant... hair clippers, sewing machine, dremel tool, etc.) all coming together to form a long lasting, simple, linear leather that is downright appealing. Slumberhouse-esque, I think.
21st March, 2018

Bois Farine by L'Artisan Parfumeur

If I were a baker my kitchen would have many trays holding the many rising dough balls that would later become my world famous peanut bread. Tubs of freshly slivered almonds and my signature amaretto glaze complete the scene. Bois Farine. The baker owns a bottle but rarely wears it. And when the baker is informed that the master JCE is responsible for both this one and Santal Massoia, he just grunts an unenthusiastic 'that figures' and goes back to baking his world famous peanut bread.

09th March, 2018

Bois Bourbon by Decennial

Spicy sweet booze, dry cedar, and dark rose. A bit jammy, perhaps, but certainly not annoyingly so.

Decennial was apparently created (c.2012) to house just the 4 celebratory scents re LuckyScents' 10 year anniversary.

Glad I sprung for a bottle. Different scents for sure, but I keep it next to Idole edp... same vibe/feel... ideal for night-out, fun-time, with a touch of class.

24th February, 2018

Héritage Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

My comments relate to a 2009 edp, tall bottle, gold cap.

I've grown to appreciate many masculine orientals as special occasion fragrances (e.g. Tiffany for Men, Rochas Lui) and not really suited for office/every day wear. Heritage is one of those.

The overall vibe is one of a primed cedarwood humidor, sans cigars, itself encased in a subordinate powdery vanilla. There's an animalic accord (castoreum would be my guess) throughout, however (other than the arguable assault of an open) that bit is largely noticeable only upon close-up sniffs. Classy and sophisticated. Longevity is good, projection/sillage low.

I believe someone once commented that Heritage is perhaps one of the best uses of vanilla in men's perfumery. No argument here.

Originally posted in edt reviews - 10/16/2016
22nd February, 2018

Knize Ten Golden Edition by Knize

I bought a big bottle of K10GE blind because of my appreciation for regular K10 in all its petroleum leather, jasmine-like floral, and amber glory. To me*, they're close enough to each other to be considered the same scent. Similar performance as well. Mine are all coded CH17### and earlier, presumably much too old to be affected by the presumably relevant birch material restrictions of IFRA 47 taking hold c.2013/14.

*For sure there are those that tend to focus on differences when comparing scents. If you're wired in that way, well YMMV. Me? I focus on similarities.
24th January, 2018

Oud 27 by Le Labo

Dry, dusty paper or parchment scent for most of the wear. Long lasting. Office appropriate if worn under clothing.

Oud? I'd say much closer to the dry & parchy Firmenich Oud blend variety (e.g. Kilian Pure Oud, Dior Leather Oud) rather than the somewhat sweet & peppery Givaudan Black Agar variety (e.g. Bond Harrods Swarovski, TF Oud Wood). Synth just the same. I am not negatively sensitive to barnyard smells... and would not consider Oud 27 overbearing in this regard at all. YMMV.
18th January, 2018

Jules by Christian Dior

Jules is one that straddles the fougere and chypre categories. It's green to the extreme in a high-pitched, bitter, twiggy manner. Galbanum? Certainly! Cyclamen? I don't know but perhaps it's responsible for Jules possessing such a unique smell. Big mossy leather and cedarwood completes the scene.

Jewels for lumberjacks... or, at least, that little bit of lumberjack essence wired into a lot of us!

Older the better with this old school, though all pre-IFRA43 are A-OK by me. A personal top-ten I think, would say, and without any doubt have obviously just wrote.
17th January, 2018

Balenciaga pour Homme by Balenciaga

Anyone else own any masterpieces they hardly ever wear?

Attached to a backbone of honey, moss, and amber there's such an attractive subtle smell of citrus and spices dancing about this oriental. After years of smelling these things I've got to say this is one of the best... but I gravitate towards the mossy leathery chypres I've always liked for the day-to-day and have grown weary of anything with much of a honey element. There are exceptions to that last bit, especially if complex and well made, or possessing some other mitigating factor, and this is one of those. Great to have in the bullpen regardless... Put me in coach!
17th January, 2018

Furyo by Jacques Bogart

Yo! Furious fur here. Good indolic jasmine and a nag champa like incense come across similar to honey. Civet, castoreum, and/or those indoles? Surely something is responsible for its growl! Amber too, and it's one peculiarly attractive oriental. As with other Bogart offerings, Furyo is a great scent to reach for when a 50lb sledge hammer is the right tool for the job. When more refinement is required I reach for Balenciaga pH.
17th January, 2018