Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Wingie

Total Reviews: 65

Hibiscus Palm by Aerin

Hibiscus Palm is a big, gorgeous, creamy, tropical floral. I don't get frangipani, but I do get ylang ylang and what smells like tuberose, and just a hint of coconut in the base. The coconut isn't enough to make this a suntan lotion-type scent, if you're worried about that.

It smells like a lightly whipped, creamier version of Guerlain Terracotta - as if Terracotta and Amouage Love Tuberose had a child. The Guerlain is a fraction of the price, so I would sample it if you've never tried it and are considering buying Hibiscus Palm.
13th April, 2021 (last edited: 14th April, 2021)

Armani Privé Figuier Eden by Giorgio Armani

I get very little fig, and more of a dry, grassy, herbaceous fragrance that leans quite masculine. I gave my sample to my spouse it it smells great on him.
11th April, 2021

Parfum d'Été by Kenzo

Parfum d'Ete is a fresh, crisp, piercing lily of the valley, with lots of green. It's almost too piercing for me. As a white floral, LOTV is a note that if not done with a little bit of softness, like (vintage) Diorissimo, it can tend to smell high-pitched and screechy. Parfum d'Ete just skirts that line for me. I can wear and enjoy it a few times in the Spring when its bracing crispness is welcome, but if I wear it too much, or at the wrong time of year, it smells shrill.

I prefer my LOTV's a little softer and more floral, but I still think this deserves a thumbs up.
20th March, 2021
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Lilac Path by Aerin

Ah, finally - a lilac perfume that doesn’t smell like air freshener!

This is an extremely pretty, high quality blended white floral, with lilac dominating in the notes. Even more impressive, the lilac note isn’t fleeting and lingers well into the drydown.

This is what Luca Turin would call a ‘bloodless’ white floral. It’s almost too angelic - when I wear it I can’t help but feel that I should be wearing a wedding veil. That might make it a pass for me - but a beautiful creation nonetheless.
17th March, 2021

L'Amandière by Heeley

l'Amandiere is a high quality blend of florals, greenery and a light almond note. The greenery is that of grass, not galbanum, and combined with the woodiness in the base it has a very fresh, slightly vegetal, almost mulchy smell, like forest crunching under your feet in early spring.

That's when this fragrance really shines, as it's quite tenacious, not delicate, and slightly angular. It truly sings when the snow is just melting and the crisp cool bite of winter is still lingering in the air.

I have tried both the extrait and the EDP. The extrait is a bit smoother but sits closer to the skin, as one might expect. Both versions have great longevity - several hours.
07th March, 2021 (last edited: 10th March, 2021)

Baiser Volé by Cartier

A very fresh, pretty lily opening: quite green like a florist's shop, a little salty/hammy. However powder soon joins and the lily becomes much more subtle; for me it doesn't carry through enough. The drydown is a soft powdery floral that lacks interest and further on it smells more like laundry musk. Longevity is short - a couple hours at most (maybe it's been reformulated?). I like the opening, but that's it unfortunately.
22nd February, 2021

parfums*PARFUMS Series 1 Leaves: Calamus by Comme des Garçons

Calamus is one of the more unconventional green scents. There’s no galbanum present - this is more of a damp leaves and grass, bamboo-type scent where the green is enveloped in a noticeably milky, slightly sappy accord that is quite unique. It stays relatively linear, and it’s a light fragrance but the composition is different and interesting enough that is doesn’t bore or disappoint. Easily unisex.

A green fragrance for people who don’t normally like green scents. It was composed by Bertrand Duchaufour, who has done a few quirky green scents but probably isn’t known for these as much as some of his other fragrances.
20th February, 2021

Florabotanica by Balenciaga

Easily one of the best bottle designs in recent history - why oh why couldn't the fragrance be a bit more interesting?

The opening is weird and off putting - a bitter green herbal accord, followed by a blend of rose and mint. Kind of feels like two different fragrances, and the rose isn't particularly rosy - it’s more synthetic, clean and washed-over. The florals sweeten up a bit, and later something slightly bitter or spicy lurks under them - maybe that's the carnation. I didn't enjoy smelling like this or wearing this - it just doesn't do anything for me. I also don't think I'm big fan of carnation. Such a shame - that bottle is fantastic.
15th February, 2021

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune by Guerlain

This one's a no-go for me. Turns too sour on my skin and reminds me of household cleaner.
11th February, 2021

Mon Guerlain Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

I find Mon Guerlain a bit dull. It smells like a Guerlain in terms of the quality of raw materials used, but the composition is just not very interesting. Lavender and vanilla, with not much else going on. Guerlain can do much better. Even La Petite Robe Noire, with its syrupy sweet mix of cherry and almonds, has more personality than this one.
10th February, 2021 (last edited: 11th February, 2021)

Paris-Riviera by Chanel

This is the juiciest, most delicious orange, sparkling and so, so pretty. It's a light citrus-floral, focused around petitgrain, neroli, and orange blossom. The scent has the lightness of an eau de cologne and longevity is therefore not great, but this is summer sunshine and happiness in a bottle, Chanel-style.
08th February, 2021 (last edited: 19th February, 2021)

Womanity by Thierry Mugler

Womanity has the distinction of being one of my most hated scents. It's downright gross - as some others have noted, it smells like female bodily fluids. A feminine version of Secretion Magnifiques, though Womanity is actually more offensive to my nose. The bottle is also atrocious - Mugler got this one very wrong and I don't think it's been a big seller for the house. According to Basenotes, Womanity has been discontinued - I'm relieved and hope I never have to smell this on someone in public.

Certainly not what I was expecting from Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin as I love Eau Duelle by Diptyque.
05th February, 2021

Alien by Thierry Mugler

All I get is a light, soapy jasmine scent. This from Mugler?
01st February, 2021
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Angel Muse by Thierry Mugler

This is the first Angel flanker I’ve tried and I did so with some trepidation, since I intensely disliked the original Angel.

I do - thankfully - like it better than the original, but unfortunately that’s all I can say about it. I can’t get past the chocolate/hazelnut note - I just don’t like it, and didn't like it in the original Angel either. That aside, this seems like a well-done fragrance and it clearly has a lot of fans (notwithstanding the small number of reviews currently on BN).

I think the whole Angel line is just not for me, and perhaps I should be thankful, given there are enough flankers to make one dizzy.
31st January, 2021 (last edited: 06th February, 2021)

Misia Eau de Toilette by Chanel

Believe it or not, I actually find Misia EDT similar to Guerlain Insolence. The lychee opening is incredibly loud and fruity, almost too much so for me, and every time I wear it I'm reminded of Insolence EDP's grape-candy opening. Both fragrances have their fruity top notes sit atop a middle base of parma violets. Where the Insolence is more brash, Misia is more behaved, cheerful, winsome and light-hearted. I do find Misia quite a large departure from the other Chanel Exclusifs - not in quality, but in character.

Interestingly, there is no lychee listed in the newer EDP formulation as it appears to have been replaced with raspberry (which, ironically, is also the opening of Insolence EDT). I wonder how much this changes the scent as I get a huge dose of lychee from the EDT.
26th January, 2021 (last edited: 07th February, 2021)

Insolence Eau de Parfum by Guerlain

As a violet lover, it took me way too long to try Insolence. I almost blind bought a bottle as I was sure I would love it - I also own and love Apres l'Ondee, and Insolence got a 5-star review in the Guide and is available for a song at discounters, so how could I go wrong?

Thankfully, I ordered a sample first and it turns out it's just not for me. The grape candy opening is too much and on first wear I actually found it nauseating. The EDT is easier to wear but still not something I could wear regularly. I will stick with the violet fragrances I currently own, but I am still giving Insolence a thumbs up as it's a great release from Guerlain.
26th January, 2021

Bois d'Iris by Van Cleef & Arpels

Lovely, soft iris - cool, just barely sweet, with gentle woody/powdery facets. It strikes me as seasonless, though I have yet to test that theory by wearing it in the summer. It is not a strong fragrance - I'm happy the bottle is 75ml because you could spray this one liberally.

I'm fortunate that I was able to find an online discounter that still had bottles in stock; I have a feeling this is not going to be around much longer. I've now tried three fragrances from this line and liked them all. It's a shame I wasn't able to try Lys Carmin and Muguet Blanc as I bet they are lovely, but now seem impossible to find except on eBay for highly inflated prices.
18th January, 2021

Vivacious by Hiram Green

After a lovely bright, fruity violet opening, carnation completely takes over and has a spicy, sweaty, musty aspect that for me is quite unpleasant. This one is a scrubber for me.

This is really not a violet perfume at all, it's all about carnation. False advertising.
06th October, 2020

Twilly d'Hermès by Hermès

The tuberose is quite fleeting, and replaced by a big lemon note. The fragrance doesn’t last very long on me.
06th October, 2020

FlowerbyKenzo by Kenzo

I first tried Kenzo Flower at Sephora over ten years ago when I was just starting to become seriously interested in perfume. I actually recoiled a bit because of how powdery it was. Now, I love soft powdery scents, thought back to my experience with Kenzo Flower over ten years ago, and sought it out. It can currently be found at discounters for a very reasonable price, and who knows when it may be discontinued? It is 20 years old now, after all.

After several wearings, Flower seems to be a bit of a chameleon. Some days it smells more powdery and insular, other days more fresh and clean. This adds to its complexity and makes it more interesting.
25th September, 2020 (last edited: 09th February, 2021)

She Was An Anomaly by Etat Libre d'Orange

Mostly iris, musk and sandalwood. It's pretty straight forward and linear, and so light you can pretty much douse yourself in it. Functions well as a 'non-perfume'. A very safe fragrance for the office. Other than that it's pretty underwhelming. Not a bad fragrance, but a disappointment coming from ELDO.

I prefer Prada Infusion d'Iris, also by Daniela Andrier. I have to wonder why ELDO would commission in iris scent from Andrier when Infusion d'Iris has become such a cult classic. Comparisons are inevitable and I suspect many may prefer the Prada.

EDIT: I got a decant and am slowly coming around on this one, and changing my rating to a thumbs up. The iris-musk-sandalwood blend is quite pretty, in a simple, understated way. It's not boring me and I enjoy wearing it. It is a light fragrance but not weak - I get several hours of wear, but not a lot of sillage. It's a perfect easy reach for days I want something uncomplicated or don't feel like wearing perfume.
22nd September, 2020 (last edited: 09th March, 2021)

Aura by Thierry Mugler

Because of my intense dislike of Angel, Mugler is a house I have pretty much neglected since I became seriously interested in perfume a little over 10 years ago, which I now realize was a dumb mistake. I recently received an Aura sample with a fragrance purchase, and what an interesting fragrance. On first spray I found it very sweet and got that wintergreen/toothpaste note others have mentioned, but it quickly started to grow on me. I can’t deconstruct this fragrance note by note but it smells like a sweet icy green floral/oriental fragrance. It sounds weird and it is, but it works, and my SO said it smells nice. I don’t have anything else that smells like this.

Aura proves that thankfully there are still designer/mainstream fragrances being made that are interesting, innovative, and a bit strange.

I’ve also tried the EDT and Aura Sensuelle, but found them not nearly as weird and compelling as the original EDP. The original EDP is the only one worth owning IMO.
20th July, 2020 (last edited: 27th January, 2021)

Idylle by Guerlain

Idylle is, in my opinion, one of the prettiest perfumes ever made. It's a lovely floral, with no raspy notes or sharp edges, and better suited to summer and spring wear. I wish I discovered this ten years ago when I started becoming seriously interested in perfume and was still in my 20s. It feels like a younger fragrance, but it’s not like many mainstream releases today that are aimed at young women. It’s classy and sophisticated, and really can be pulled off by a woman of any age, though there’s definitely an innocence to it. This is a perfume that is easy to wear and will offend no one, and is perfect for an office environment. I’m tempted to buy a bottle since it can currently be found at discounters for so cheap, and soon will no longer be available anywhere in the cute gold teardrop-shaped bottle.

I sampled the EDP formulation in the original gold bottle - I would be worried about longevity with the EDT as the EDP has only moderate longevity.
05th July, 2020 (last edited: 14th March, 2021)

Missoni (2006 version) by Missoni

I ordered a few carded samples of this off eBay about ten years ago after reading the review it got in the Guide. The chocolate note unfortunately ruins it for me.
05th July, 2020

Neroli 36 by Le Labo

Neroli 36 is a summer/beachy type scent, but the beachy effect is achieved by combining some pale, wan florals with a strong synthetic-smelling marine/aquatic/salty note that is somewhat harsh and really dumbs the fragrance down, causing it to lack any sophistication whatsoever. It smells like a dime store summer scent, yet is three times the price. This is one of several tropical/beachy type fragrances I test drove and the one I liked the least.
23rd June, 2020

Gucci Bloom by Gucci

The opening is lovely - a fresh, natural, somewhat sweet tuberose/jasmine accord, however I unfortunately don’t get anything close to the longevity others have gotten. This fragrance disappears entirely from my skin in about fifteen minutes.

UPDATE: I sampled this at Sephora and could smell it pretty much all day, so my first sample from eBay must have been off - or fake, which is hard to believe. In any case I am changing my review to give this a thumbs-up. The florals are a lot more lush as well. Nice quality white floral for a designer fragrance.
17th June, 2020 (last edited: 25th September, 2020)

Fire Island by Bond No. 9

This is one of the fragrances I test drove in the search for a great tropical/beachy scent to add to my collection. Unfortunately, it’s a no-go for me. I’m a bit disappointed as I expected a big tuberose note and really don’t get any tuberose. There is a faint neroli, but really all I get from this fragrance is the smell of salty skin. It’s not a bad fragrance for what it is, and it definitely conjures up images of the beach on a hot summer day. But I need something more in a beach scent - either more ylang ylang, more coconut, more of something to add a bit more complexity - I don’t want to just smell like salty skin.

Sillage is quite powerful - one squirt and my spouse smelled it on the other side of the room.
16th June, 2020

Balenciaga Paris by Balenciaga

Despite the list of notes, Balenciaga Paris is a seemingly simple perfume in that there is little else but violet that can be smelled, however if you are a violet lover like me, this perfume is unique because of what it is not. It is not a green earthy violet, nor is it a moody, dusty violet, nor is it a candied, sweet violet. It a light, almost sheer floral violet, slightly cool, with just a tinge of a metallic edge, surrounded by an ever so light musky, woody accord. It is minimalist in character, though far from generic or boring, and to call it 'violet musk' would not be inaccurate. It is both light and expansive; it is one of those fragrance that creates a soft aura around the wearer, and others will often smell it when you think it is not present. It is beautiful to wear in the spring.

So far I have not encountered a violet perfume that satisfies my basic violet itch as well as this one does. It is also approachable, easy to wear, office friendly, and while there's an elegance to it, it can also be worn with jeans and a t-shirt. It may actually be the perfect violet soliflore.

Bonus: this one was composed by Olivier Polge, before he became in-house Perfumer at Chanel.
08th June, 2020 (last edited: 26th January, 2021)

Hana Hiraku by Parfum Satori

Lovely natural melon-centred scent. The melon note is quite full and ripe, not sheer. Could be classified as a fruity-floral but not overly sweet or cloying and a step above most of the other fruity florals available currently. Would be very nice for spring and summer.
21st May, 2020

Totally White / 126 by Parle Moi de Parfum

Is it possible to do a lilac-centred fragrance without it smelling like air freshener?

If so, this isn't it. Almairac was likely going for a minimalist white t-shirt type scent, but to me it just smells like Febreeze, and is slightly headache-inducing.
21st May, 2020