Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

Total Reviews: 2572

Derviche by Rogue Perfumery

Derviche starts off effectively medicinal and kind of apothecarian in order to morph down (relatively) quickly in to a fantastic musky/floral accord of leather and perfumed tobacco leaf. Leather is the main theme and this dominant element smells finally smooth, velvety and suedish. I get resins and animalic patterns along the way. Olibanum in particular is initially detectable on skin. Olibanum is perfectly connected with animalic musk/labdanum, amber, woods and medicinal hesperides in order to exude a wonderful retrò and stuffy atmosphere (like breathing the "mouldy aura" of an old parisian attic full of old books, pipe-tobacco smoke, decrepit fornitures, "potpourry flower pots" and vintage stuffs). Spices, probably dried fruits, vanilla and leather provide effectively this weird final "cherry accord" which is vaguely floral and definitely suedish. Dry down is smooth, natural and intimate, like a quite pleasant floral/suedish olfactory pearl. Suede is well rounded, vaguely rubbery and woody (for a refined combinaton of perfumed tobacco and mild - vaguely pencil-shavings - wood). Derviche is my second Rogue-experience after Tabac Vert and I have to say that my impression is completely positive (this is a super refined suedish-accord civilized by musks, delicate jasmine, vanilla and soft resins, not a complex accord but something incredibly balanced, discreet and well crafted). I detect a vague resemblance with Ambre Narguile but Derviche is definitely woodier and smoother (with its delicate touch of soothing vanilla. Vanilla, supported by musks, is the amalgamative factor connecting all together the diverse elements).
02nd September, 2020

Bois d’Amande by Van Cleef & Arpels

Effective minimalistic combination of woods, fir resins, suede, kind of almond/coconut's balsam and hesperides. This fragrance is a unisex woody-oriental from the V&A Collection Extraordinaire. Woods and lemon are on the stage, providing the central structure of the olfactory fatigue. The aroma is kind of silvan and woodsy-oriental with an almondy twist and a lemony tad of "aromatic metallic". Opening (vaguely liquorous) is mastered by a strong presence of lemon and almond while gradually woodsy resins, musks and soothed woods take the scene. The aroma is basically woody/musky with a tad of fresh/aromatic (slightly metallic) and a semi-oriental soul. Dark, fresh/warm and enigmatic, recommended for all the lovers of masculine oriental boisè.
08th August, 2020 (last edited: 10th August, 2020)

Tabac Vert by Rogue Perfumery

Tabac Vert represents my first approach with the fragrance american brand Rogue Perfumery, a non-IFRA restrictions natural perfume-factory founded by the passionate perfumista Manuel Cross, a creator introducing on the market particularly intense creations rich of natural essential oils. It seems all the Rogue-perfumes are the result of years of olfactory experiments, researching and studying about perfumery principles, history of european perfumery and aroma chemicals. Tabac Vert comes to life while attempting to rework some classic powerhouse's formula, combining the former with the bone-dry woody chypre notes operating in scents as Bogart One Man Show and Krizia Uomo (in order to perform a modern tobacco-oriented woody/aromatic chypre fragrance). This is indeed a modern "old school style green-woody chypre" projecting an olfactory atmosphere of massive fornitures, luxurious tapestries, austere wooden libraries, leather-sofá, fine cigars, bar corners and pure malt liquors. I detect immediately a sort of medicinal naphtalenic/aldehydic/hesperidic green musky presence on skin (a la Areej Le Dore Siberian Musk), something kind of rubbery (boot-polish like), waxy, honeyed and mouldy (with a vague mushroom-like humid atmosphere) with hints of rosey soapiness (I detect hints of leafy carnation as well). A super vintage initial aromatic (vaguely coniferous) accord, initially dense but turning gradually out drier and drier (spicier and earthier). This weird opening atmosphere is kind of "apothecarian" and slightly art nouveau. Along the way tobacco emerges with a well rounded floral aromatic soapiness preceded by a tad of vague immortelle-like faint burnt undertone and laced by a sort of floral creamy woodiness. The piquancy gradually fills the general mossy/rubbery "ambience". Dry down is drier, earthier, woodier and spicier (kind of vaguely rooty/dusty and misty), something effectively conjuring a sort of ideal blend of Guerlain Derby and vintage Tabarome (I even detect vague similarities with the classic Knize Ten). This final outcome is quite gentlemanly and classic, a drier floral evolution of a complex mossy/rubbery blend. Recommended for the lovers of these old school woody chyprè with a mossy aromatic soul.
31st July, 2020 (last edited: 01st August, 2020)
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Mémoire d'une Odeur by Gucci

A chamomille-oriented musky-floral accord with a tad of warm amber/vanilla. A tad Costume National Scent and a tad a Narciso Rodriguez musky creation (Poudree Eau de Parfum for instance). Dry down is kind of musky organic, moody floral and soapy.
20th July, 2020

Au Nom de la Terre by Urban Scents

If you appreciate scents a la Testa Maura Mia Murza or L'Erbolario Ginepro Nero you'd probably not dislike this fragrance (which nevertheless unfolds an its own peculiarity, probably drier and rawer). Au nom de la Terre is definitely not my cup of tea despite I appreciate several of its characteristics. It starts bitter, smoky and rooty disclosing gradually a milder and damper soul (definitely softer, sweeter with hints of hesperides, balsams, amber and spices). This weird and resinous combination of woods and forest-resins is indeed kind of rugged, bitter/sweet (with a sort of bitter rooty herbal vibe) and initially kind of "burnt". I detect a mild and kind of "orangy" resinous background counteracting the botanical drier bitterness. This juice is highly "rural" and raw with dull progression and faint structure. It seems to detect something like immortelle or sticky everlasting, overall enveloped by a mantle of soothing labdanum, seasoned woods (vaguely humid) and balm. Dry down is warm and comforting but still too crude and bucolic (with a bitter/rooty background which is the main earthy trait of this rural accord).
23rd June, 2020

Boss Bottled Tonic by Hugo Boss

The "tonic" side of the moon is definitely provided by a synth spicy accord of girger, aromatics, bitter citrus and musk. Lot of bitter orange and spicy fruity aromatic fizziness (ginger is heady and kind of fruity). The bitter/acid hesperidic presence plus dry vetiver and bitter apple elicit a sort of ostensibly salty/organic vibe throughout (a fizzy/bitter musky twist), which is sporty and dynamic. Dry down conjures me vaguely Ck Eternity for men, I get salty vetiver but mostly spicy (sweeter) sandalwoood and musk. A quite easy dynamic virile fragrance which is mostly suitable for cold seasons and casual outfits.
19th June, 2020 (last edited: 21st June, 2020)

Riflesso Blue Vibe by Trussardi

Speedracer well sums up. While the original Riflesso is a decent composition with an its own olfactive identity this flanker is a sort "adaptation to a trend" (scents with a spicy-floral sugary opening and a sort of woody/leathery dry down with salty-marine elements a la One Million Parfum). Yes, the opening is kind of "YSL La Nuit-esque" or conjuring scents a la Prada Luna Rossa, namely is dusty/sugary (rum and spices), kind of nutty (hazelnut) and woody/spicy (sweet) floral.The transition to drydown is quick and it is kind of sweet musky and woody-leathery with marine elements. Yuzu definitely provides a kind of metallic/marine/green/tea-like effect. Frankly I don't get tobacco while I feel the woody/leathery/metallic long tail. Kind of generic and finally pale and cedary (vaguely pencil shaving).

14th June, 2020

Tobacco d’Harar by Giviemme

Tobacco d'Harar, namely a pillar of the italian historical barber-shop virile perfumery. The Italian perfume brand Gi.Vi.Emme wore the initials of Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone, a famous member of the "milanese" dynasty of Visconti. This fragrance is a rooty-aromatic kind of "dandy" accord of patchouli, tobacco and herbal/hesperidic notes. Overall is kind of dry-barber shop, "stout' and masculine in a charismatic uncompromising way. The fragrance is named after the ancient Ethiopian city of Harar, an important center of the spice, tobacco, and coffee trades. The juice itself is focused on a virile powdery/rooty tobacco-accord surrounded by peppery spices, resins, moss, leather and earthy notes. Opening features a zesty combination of hesperides which soon encounter a rich presence of dry spices and aromatic lavender. Cinnamon and cumin are combined with cloves and powdery carnation in the intellectual core of the formula (the retrò/potpourri heart enriched by rose and jasmine). Leather and tobacco, combined with oakmoss, dry cedar and smoky woods gradually unfold the woodsy stout base of this historical olfactory italian gentlemen-creation (dry, persistent and virile, with leathery tones). This is a "smoker fragrance" since its scent (because of its notes) blends well with tobacco smoke (with more than vague conceptual connections with the classic Aramis, which is equally herbal but less smoky/floral and more properly leathery). This fantastic fragrance is unfortunately discontinued nowadays. Its range used to include after shave lotion and powder as well.
06th June, 2020 (last edited: 08th June, 2020)

Dior Homme Eau de Toilette (2020 version) by Christian Dior

A new Dior Homme (a brand new completely different fragrance rebranded/renamed "Dior Homme"), a completely different peppery virile Francois Demachy's creation newly marketed as the "iconic" fragrance of the maison (bearing its name), the Dior's new idea of contemporary signature masculinity. If you appreciate damp, musky, vaguely agrestic, woody, "rainy" creations a la Terre d'Hermes, L'Erbolario Ginepro Nero, Montale Red Vetyver and Rouge Bunny Rouge Tundra actually this one could bè for you another (smoother, muskier, more urban and "rubbery") take over their humid forest-theme. Dior Homme 2020 (if compared with the superior "old" Dior Homme) is another concept of contemporary man which explores the "deep forest's muskiness-theme" indeed (in a more civilized soothed way if compared with Terre d'Hermes or Tundra, for instance). It smells about musky/resinous (vaguely rubbery and definitely peppery) atlas cedarwood. The latter plus pink pepper and wet sticky vetiver (plus conoferous resins) are definitely central, on a base of synth cashmere woods and iso e super "neutral" kind of vaguely gummy muskiness. The general atmosphere is initially silvan, rooty/hesperidic and decidedly assertive, while finally turning out musky and drier, a quite different stuff if compared with the freshly suedish and frankly more modern concept behind the old glorious iris/vanilla/suede-centered Dior Homme's formulation (which I definitely prefer over the next 2020-version). This recent release is simply another concept of fragrance, less dandy/classy/mondane and more woodsy, virile and moody. Dior Homme 2020 is initially hesperidic, humid, musky, peppery, cedary and boisè (vaguely a la Terre d'Hermes but in a tamed less earthy way), overall gradually soothed by hints of musk and vague synth rubbery suede. Pink pepper is not so piquant but is definitely heady and featuring. Juniper berries, pink pepper, vetiver, fir resins and earthy patchouli are progressively merged in to an enchanted mossy-damp atmosphere of the northern lands' wild woods. The forest-dampness gradually recedes in order to disclose a sort of musky neutral cedary/piquant affair. Not my ideal take on masculine fragrances but a solid choice for the lovers of this peppery woodsy genre. To me the old fabulous Dior Homme is "from another planet".
23rd May, 2020

Eau de Lancaster by Lancaster

I adore this type of classics. Ripe fruits, oakmoss, a tad of spicy rootiness, resins, sandalwoood and stuffy floral notes (with hints of animalics). This little review is for the classic Lancaster eau de concentree. Massive frames, furs, lusty old women, cultural associations and tapestries.... this is the ambience. A formal and slightly retró (vaguely potpourri) composition. A classic floral chyprè (a la Ungaro Diva or Ck Obsession) for a classy refined "posh" mature woman.
18th May, 2020

Vibrant Leather by Zara

Crisp, fruity exotic, smokey, peppery, leathery with a tad of final soothing vanilla and musk. Another Aventus-clone, one of the closest. Bamboo provides a vague tea-like effect a la Bvlgari Pour Homme. Far cheaper than Aventus. Projection and longevity are more than powerful. No more to add.
16th May, 2020

Gocce di Passione by Morris

Gracious languid accord of rosey vanilla and red fruits with a tad of soapy musk and powder. This accord is pretty simple but effective. The rose's neutrality provides balance to the slightly acid fruity twist. Wisteria affords a sort of "victorian" assertive floral herbal vibe which imprints a general aura of maturity (and a spark of romanticism) to this soapy fragrance with a tad of "vintage" but hints of modern fruity/resinous sensuality at same time (like a sort of little Gocce di Napoleon's rebel sensual sister). Today Gocce di Passione could bè like a fall season-exercise of nostalgia.
10th May, 2020

Wonderland by Urban Scents

I really appreciate this little honest niche Berlin-based perfume lab creatively directed by the talented Marie Le Febvre. Urban Scents is an interesting perfume-house full of "silence", kind of eastern (vaguely minimalistic but never simplistic) conceptualism and urban elusive creativity. Wonderland is a modern reinterpretation of a classic 90's-formula (Urban Scents Wonderland starts quite spicy/floral, fizzy, vaguely airy-ozonic and familiar on my skin, like something in the middle between Joop Nightflight, Chopard Heaven and Paco Rabanne Excess but with its own special suedish-cedary and minty-aromatic peculiarity). This is clearly an airy/floral sandalwood-founded watery accord rich of spices and fruity-aquatic patterns. Wonderland is definitely saturnine and poetic. There is a soapy vibe throughout and a sort of nocturnal romantic semi-oriental mysticism talking us about the secrets of a shimmering summer night. This moonlight night is crowded by whispering spirits, flying fairies and humming creatures. Floral notes are variegate and redolent (jasmine, narcissus, lily of the valley, geranium?). Along the way the aroma gradually restrains unfolding a quite virile, aromatic (kind of fougère) and classy spark (modern, sensual, kind of casual, suedish and metropolitan). I get this aromatic virile accord kind of vaguely balsamic but the sandalwoood-dominant dry down is gradually interested by a sort of spark of tonkinian orientalism (with its well calibrated tad of heliotropic balsams and vaguely almondy vanilla), by a soapy muskiness and a twist of soft leather (which gradually takes the scene in its strong fruity-aromatic connection with sandalwoood). Despite its urban soul this fragrance preserves its power of "natural" conjuration (nocturnal fields, whispers of lovers, rattles and hums). An highly recommended soapy-floral (slightly fruity imo) modern fougère with a final semi-oriental twist of poetry.
06th May, 2020 (last edited: 07th May, 2020)
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Sensual Blend by Urban Scents

Urban Scent Sensual Blend is a sparkling, super spicy and charismatic boozy/woody fragrance with a welcoming "splashing" introduction (quite boozy and peppery) and a following strong leather's twist (still fluidy-boozy and definitely woody). You can get immediately the presence of liqueur (providing a quite fizzy light/watery opening a la Mark Buxton Devil in Disguise) while the leathery soul is gradually (by soon) emerging as the main obsessive spicy trait of the olfactory fatigue. I get light resins providing a sort of dusty vaguely sticky consistence, something perfectly calibrated in a general good balance between fluidy and resinous elements (overall enveloped by a sort of leathery blanket). The spicy presence is kind of "overloaded" and (in its combination with leather and woods) imprinting a powerful sort of fizzy intensity. In the same vein as Atelier Cologne Gold Leather (spices, booziness, leather, woods, resins) I find this juice too monolithic in its short evolution and the super intense (kind of "relentless") leathery spiciness. The final intense leather-presence is kind of musky and definitely woody (conjuring me such an intense similar vibe which is present in scents a la Nasomatto Duro and Montale Aoud Musk). I recommend it to all those lovers of straightforward dry leather-based fragrances supported by watery spiciness and woods. Not my genre of fragrance.
02nd May, 2020

Let You Love Me by Blumarine

Blumarine Let you love me is a modern-chic musky/cool "kind of spicy/frozen, vaguely icy/talky and minty/anisic" synth combination of floral notes, star anisic/mentholated "icy" amber, vanillin, patch and orange blossoms (perfectly allined in style with notorious scents a la Very Irresistible and Alien - same cool metropolitan glamour concept). A nice solution for nights out clubbing in the down town. There is a citric/floral slightly metallic twist provided by a combination of lily of the valley and citrus but the main trait is provided by ambery/aromatic lorenox, cool/frozen ambroxan-vanillin, soapy patchouli and kind of mentholated "soapy/cosmetical" spiciness. This fragrance is "spacious" and glamour, kind of juvenile and "mondane". Basically is focused on orange blossoms, ylang-ylang and this glamour "chilly balsamic" icy-spiciness a la Givenchy Ange ou Demon. A nice solution for clubbing in the cold winter nights and for roaming around glamour venues of the frosty night.
29th April, 2020

Cuirs by Carner Barcelona

Mostly sandalwoood, smooth cistus and spices on my skin. Yes Carner Barcelona seems focused on (I'd not say rip-offs but) olfactory uninspired attempts of reinterpretation (in order to bè diplomatic). It is undeniable that in this case scents a la Montale Aoud Musk, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis, Nasomatto Black Afgano and Duro, Tiziana Terenzi Laudano Nero, Marc de la Morandiere Kozmic Oud, Bruno Acampora Nero, Orto Parisi Boccanera and most of all LM Black Oud jump intensely on mind. Carner Cuirs is definitely an accord of musk, cistus, leather and woody resins with a sheer sandalwoood-presence and an intense balmy-spicy core (I get cinnamon, saffron and probably cumin). Yes it smells finally kind of watered down (and this is not straightforwardly a bad news). The opening is by soon kind of smoky, quite woody and vaguely suedish, with mild spices and a sort of balmy/soapy (vaguely gourmandish) background (hints of honey, coffee?). Yes along the way it seems to lose its initial strenght and smells softer, less potent and smoky than "Black Afgano" or I'd say Laudano Nero. I detect creamy woodiness, hints of citrus, synth super spicy resins, patch, woods and soft suede. Cedarwood provides that dry harshness that Alfarom connects partially to Montale Dark Aoud. I agree that Cuirs (despite the cistus-musky presence) lacks that intensely green herbal vibe provided by cannabis that "Black Afgano" unfolds while the woody and smoky parts are present and less vivid. Over the first smoky/woody/citric blast it smells linear (spicy/resinous/woody/musky) to the end. If you wanna find a superior (more elegant and wearable) solution on this "intensely gloomy" genre stick to the great Bruno Acampora Nero. Dry down smells a tad too sweet anyway, my rating is barely medium at moment.

24th April, 2020

Les Copains L'Homme by Les Copains

This review is on the by now discontinued vintage Les Copains Homme which I've tested on skin due to a special vial kindly sent at me by the user (and friend) David. Thank you again my friend. This animalic "dodgy" fragrance opens kind of "stuffy" and intellectually retrò with a blast of piquant dry spices, angular hesperides, dry/leafy floral notes (geranium, carnation, rose?), bitter greens (immortelle?), (styrax?), orris root, moss and woods (perhaps sandalwoood and patchouli). Overall it smells really sharp, almost harsh in this initial phase (but I detect at same time a "fluidy" combination of bitter/leafy florals and faint acid/tart citrus). Over the initial "wet" citric feel a following (stuffy and dry) herbal-dry spicy-woody effect starts indeed jumping up kind of crisp and sharp (a vibrant rugged/crisp "twist" a la vintage Ted Lapidus Pour Homme, Caron Yatagan, Rocco Barocco Per Lui, Benetton Tribù, Dana Tabù or similar stuffs). Along the process of development I begin gradually to detect (as olfactory background) something opulent and classically sophisticated (ylang-ylang/resins/rose/amber/fur/animalics/spices?) to a certain extent "comparable" with glorious feminine (or masculine) masterworks a la La Perla, K by Krizia, V&A First, Fendi by Fendi or Aramis Jhl (which is anyway another "thing"), a sort of "a la Bernard Chant" sleight of hand which is just accessorial and unfortunately ghostly. Dry down is still prevalently dry/woody/leafy floral/bitter herbal. Franky this stout spicy/hesperidic vibe is kind of overly "pronounced" on my skin while I'd have preferred a more developed (sophisticated) resinous/spicy spark which I just get as faint undertone behind the dominant dry spicy/herbal effect. Les copains is a brand somewhat obscure today but once upon a time fashionable especially in the 90's in North Italy (Milano in particular). I see the animalic vibe and the wonderful sophisticated "which I've defined a la Bernard Chant" spark as undertone (an accord of resins, spices, amber, may bè fur and kind of stuffy dry fruity/floral notes" which I detect as well "as main vibe" in glorious scents a la Cinnabar, JHL, First, Fendi or Opium (yes also Caron Nuit de Noel). In this case this "vintage" (more present in various feminine stuffs) vibe is just veiled behind a sort of dominant masculine main " angular and sour spicy acidity" provided by dry spices, citrus and bitter floral leaves (anyway it seems this way at me). This is anyway a great fragrance, no doubts, a classic, masculine and vaguely naif. A quite interesting fragrance "to be retrieved" with a wonderful "mystic" dry down.
19th April, 2020 (last edited: 21st April, 2020)

OJ Perrin for Men by OJ Perrin

Grateful to David for sending me a sample of this hard to find fragrance. Another familiar aroma (I catch a sort of "Guerlinade-vibe" a la Nahema, Heritage or L'Heure Bleue) despite I perceive it kind of washed out on my skin. Lovely fragrance, opens hesperidic, aldehydic, green and aromatic (sage, lavender?) but in a short while it smells dusty/talky, vanillic, woody/cedary, spicy-peppery and tonkinian. I detect patchouli (quite heady alongside vanilla and spices), vanilla, tonka bean (a tad of heliotrope?), sandalwood/cedarwood, oakmoss, floral notes (iris, rose?), hints of leather and lot of piquant/aromatic spices (pepper, cardamom, coriander, cloves or nutmeg etc). Fragrances jumping on mind (close in style) are Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur, vintage Guerlain Heritage but vaguely also Parfums de Nicolai New York, La Martina Cuero, Lalique Pour Homme and really vaguely also vintage Giorgio Beverly Hills and Tiffany for men (each of them for several of their complex characteristics). The OJ Perrin for men's aroma is intellectual, warm, dusty/powdery, assertive and quite exotic. Another great gem to discover.
P.S: the final olfactory evolution, after many hours, is quite close to Ysl Opium Pour Homme Edp's dry down (just kind of softer and more evanescent on my skin).
16th April, 2020 (last edited: 17th April, 2020)

Classic Collection : Pure Cacao by Monotheme

Pure Cacao smells immediately "Indie/agricole-like", boozy, smoky and kind of sugary-(toasted) on my skin. At first it seems to detect a tad of caribbean sugary rhum or spicy liqueur, floral patterns, smoky resins (opoponax?), hints of seasoned woods, may bè heliotrope, something burnt sugary like immortelle (dried fruits?), tonka, labdanum and vanilla (or tolu balsam, something conjuring me vaguely a sort of cappuccino). This Is my first impression about this semi-gourmand Monotheme's appointment. Pure Cacao conjures me scents as Urban Scents Dark Vanilla, L'Artisan Havana Vanille, Spiritueuse Double Vanille (which smells more intense on my skin), Lush The voice of reason which is more vibrant and "vivid". I don't get in particular tobacco (in its classic dry vibe) but more properly a sort of smoky and burnt sugary element which smells particularly dry, organic and toasted (as undertone). A lovely yummy oriental quite erotic and sultry.
16th April, 2020 (last edited: 17th April, 2020)

Les Copains (original) by Les Copains

This vintage fragrance features a weid grassy/salty/floral/acid/aromatic (vaguely marine, seaweeds?) initial feel with spices (pepper, cardamom?) and perhaps galbanum, something "musky/organic" not so distant from what I perceive in several Givenchy Insensé (the original one and Ultramarine), vaguely in Chopard Heaven and partially in a modern scent named Agonist Arctic Jade (which finally follows a diverse evolution). It seems to smell something minty or icy-calonic as well (may bè lavender) and vaguely fruity with a tad of something resinous and warmly manly. I detect floral notes which smell on my skin somewhat leafy and salty (magnolia? Lily?). Dry down smells mostly about cedar and vetiver (a tad of tobacco?), with hints of vanilla, tonka or ambrette seeds and musk. Longevity is good on my skin while projection is moderate or faint. A pleasant spring-time fragrance for casual outdoor occasions.
16th April, 2020 (last edited: 17th April, 2020)

Alix by Grès

Alix is a great classic uncompromisingly feminine, old fashioned, vaguely stuffy and supremely floral. A classic formula performed (each time with faint variations) by many creators and perfumers. Quite familiar (it smells close to one of my mum's old perfumes from the past). Olfactory connections and scents jumping on mind: Caron Fleurs de Rocaille (on my skin it smells exactly the same or really close), some Patou (1000, Joy?), Ysl Paris (which smells more aldehydic on my skin), Guy Laroche Fidji or perhaps Beverly Hills Gale Hayman woman (vaguely V&A First which smells rootier and less floral on me). I detect a classic initial presence of aldehydes, bergamot, a touch of grass (or galbanum) and leafy/bitter floral notes (as magnolia, lilac or gardenia), a central stage intensely floral (may bè with lily of the valley, rose, narcissus, gardenia, ylang-ylang and jasmine) and a classic musky base enriched by amber and woods. Along dry down it seems to detect hints of fur or suede, benzoin (or tonka, may bè a touch of heliotrope) and a tad of resins. Persinstence is faint on my skin but the aroma is glorious.
16th April, 2020 (last edited: 17th April, 2020)

Shooting Stars : Nio by Xerjoff

Simply a citrus-paradise. Just for the lovers of "citrus groves like" creations. I adore the bitter-orange's vibe and the neroli's floral naif aura. Hints of pepper, bitter greens and a cedary woody super balanced base enrich the hesperidic ambience. Excellent and dreamy like being in the middle of a southern citrus grove. Nothing more to add.
15th April, 2020 (last edited: 22nd April, 2020)

K by Dolce & Gabbana by Dolce & Gabbana

Uncompromisingly masculin, astringent, dry floral, citric aromatic, "sporty/aquatic", charming, minimalistic, with a cedary watery base founded of the vetiver/patchouli combo a la Badedas Noir shower gel. Scents a la Perry Ellis 360 for man, PR Invictus Aqua, Bleau de Chanel, Dior Sauvage, Armani Acqua di Giò Absolu, several Montblanc (either Emblem and Explorer) jump on mind since featuring and expressing really similar dynamic characteristics. Opening is quite sharp, crisp and fruity (mostly focused on grapefruit and citrus, with hints of pepper and aromatic spices). I have to say that this citric-vibe (mostly focused on bitter orange) is quite convincing (especially in its evolution and kind of realistic "aplomb") and in a typical italian style (a la Casamorati/Xerjoff for instance -Fiero, Mefisto, Fiore d'Ulivo, Nio). In particular juniper berries, lavender and geranium represent the sporty/muscular core of this "summery" (vaguely exotic) juice (the umpteenth attempt to follow the "taking the world by storm" wake produced years back by Creed Aventus despite the ambroxan usage is in here almost absent). Dry down is somewhat generic (orangy/floral/dry/woody in a synthetically cedary way) but hitting the spot if you are looking for these kind of stuffs (on this unpretentious casual "shampooing" path D&G K is convincing).
15th April, 2020

B. Blumarine by Blumarine

A grapefruit-bomb in the middle of a musky metallic boredom and a tart floral bouquet. The floral leafy tartness (with a heady passionflower) is acid and almost "salty" (or better not properly salty but intensely acid, angular and "edgy"). I don't get sandalwood in particular but mostly "kind of ozonic" musk and cedarwood. There is a tad of vague soapiness along the way providing a sense of body cleanliness. B is a sort of easy-going summer fragrance (for a young bright sensual carefree woman) decent for office-use or outdoor sunny days (perhaps roaming around for fields and farms). Fru frú packaging. Not more to add.
13th April, 2020 (last edited: 14th April, 2020)

L’Eau d’Issey Rose & Rose by Issey Miyake

Quite different from the classic (far drier) original L'Eau d'Issey woman. Fruity and super chic osmanthus (just for a short while sharp and acid) welcomes you immediately in its quite spicy (saffron?) accord with red fruits and resinous rose. There is dry pink pepper (in the "top air") but I mostly detect creamy-rosey saffron (may bè cinnamon) in the nowadays typical spicy accord of rose, saffron and patchouli (Dueto Parfums City Love, Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh and many others). The central stage is supremely rosey (in a spicy/creamy/berrish way). Dry down (the transition to which is pratically inexistent) is creamy, rosey, spicy and resinous. A kind of amberish-resinous (semi-oriental) fruity rose juvenile, soapy and tenacious (so different from the original L'Eau d'Issey, acid, leafy-floral and "metallically aquatic"). Rose&Rose is a solid and balanced alternative to many "niche" spicy resinous roses really expensive and often unbalanced (overly oudish or spicy). Appalling pink bottle (pass by).
11th April, 2020

The Voice of Reason by Gorilla Perfume

The Voice of Reason is a superbly toasted (a tad of coffee beans in the blend?) indie visceral burnt sugary/spicy accord (a la Slumberhouse Jeke or Baque) of rhum agricole, immortelle (or rooty/earthy stuffs like it), caramellous spices, smoke, (tobacco?), grass, roots, woods (Davana?) and resinous balsams. Assertive and "tremendous". It smells piquant, virile and potent. Any animalic pattern in the blend? It seems to detect civet in the middle of the sticky resins. I get the cappuccino's vibe but mostly caramellous smoky spices and dry woods/tobacco. Really "Baton Rouge-like". The aroma's perception is somewhat "natural, crude and realistic" as in the Lush/Gorilla's english-coutryside style. Highly recommended for all the lovers of peppery/boozy accords. This juice is erotic, languidly nostalgic and somewhat relentless. I see Harley Davidsons, high flames, velvety purple tapestries, poisonous writhing snakes, relentless rythms, metalheads, spirits, electric guitars, red/purple lights, clouds of smoke and demonic women eyes wide shot. A quite sexy potion for rock/metallic and a bit coutry-blues (vaguely monstrous) on the road american globetrotters (as the Sex Machine character in the Tarantino's movie From Dusk till Dawn).
03rd April, 2020

The Only One by Dolce & Gabbana

The first blast (by soon focused on almondy orange blossoms, synth musk, floral patterns and benzoin) is a vague olfactory conjuration about old school notorious scents a la JP Gaultier Classique, Rochas Absolu, Cacharel LouLou (which is finally creamier and classier) and something else (but also more recent creations a la Elie Saab Le parfum jump vaguely on mind). The juice is sultry, soapy, spicy and vaguely lactonic (but never overly dense or creamy). Opening is slightly hesperidic and kind of rosey. I detect balmy patchouli, a violet leaves-founded base (I don't get iris to bè honest) with saffron and cedarwood but frankly not coffee. Probably the latter is present in a faint dosage in order to soothe and round up the elements. The aroma is candied and languid along the first stages, definitely pleasant but not particularly impressive (kind of mainstream). Dry down is muskier, warmer and discreet (vaguely assertive and somewhat woody with a cedarwood/violet-founded kind of combo), conjuring me vaguely Elie Saab Le parfum. D&G The Only One is not a particularly structured and elegant creation and could bè intended as a nice easy going solution for casual winter evenings spent at home with friends and the beloved.
02nd April, 2020

This is Her! by Zadig & Voltaire

This is her is a peppery fluidy jasmine/ylang-ylang-dominant accord surrounded by a synth musky fancy aura. The aroma is uncompromisingly feminine and spicy. I get an initial tad of vague fizziness and a slightly fruity (bilberries?) spark with hints of coumarine and lemon. I get a vague orchidee-feel in the general floral accord. This Zadig&Voltaire is a typical modern easy going-carefree young woman-for contemporary creation with any pretentiousness and a dull evolution. Chestnut cream? Oh my God, my profane nose is far to perceive any kind of chestnut's vibe, just a tad of final undiscerned benzoinic soapiness and hints of ambroxide and musk ketone surrounded by isoeugenol to provide a super spicy barely creamy-resinous feel and the illusion of a ylang-ylang's presence. A juvenile spring time little creation with any future and few chances to survive in the pacific ocean of worldwide perfumery.
29th March, 2020

Nomade Eau de Toilette by Chloé

Nomade is a musky-fruity combination of florals and citrus. Angular, vaguely eastern in vibe (a japanese kind of freesia/lychee-centered minimalistic floral/aqueous accord in a sort of L'Eau d'Issey/Crabtree & Evelyn's kind of vest) and super feminine (in a sort of green-acid way). I detect similarities with Chanel Chance as well along the slightly soothed dry down. Opening is almost fizzy and bitter-green (like a sort of "apothecarian" perfumed issue). A green/super floral freesia-dominant accord starts surging up like a relentless musky-floral obsessive persecution (angular, grassy, fizzy-citric and kind of peachy). The fruity vibe is kind of soothing and rounding the elements but the soul of aroma holds on to bè basically dry, tart, fluidy-trasparent (in a sort of japanese silent mood-kind of way) and sharp. Dry down is vaguely smoother and lighter but still pervasive and angular (in a floral leafy-grassy way). Along this stage I detect a sort of modern-chic icy/musky final twist a la Very Irresistible Givenchy. A modern dynamic day-time fragrance for a middle-aged sensual woman in carreer.
21st March, 2020 (last edited: 22nd March, 2020)

cK Everyone by Calvin Klein

Literally a cologne, bright, zesty and mastered by the note of tea as combined with citrus (mostly orange), dry woods and aromatic/spicy notes as oregano and ginger (like an ideal blend of Bvlgari Pour Homme, Roger&Gallet Thé Vert and something like Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet or several Aqua Allegoria). I detect a sort of ozonic sharp-icy undertone a la Bvlgari Aqua as well. The aroma is gentlemanly, dry and dynamic. I find CK Everyone a neo-classic woody/hesperidic creation with a contemporary clean and vaguely salty (metallic) spark. Well made.
12th March, 2020 (last edited: 13th March, 2020)