Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Darvant

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Total Reviews: 2606

L'Anarchiste by Caron

A complex musky/aromatic/boisé fragrance combining a sort of initial old-school radiant neroli-centered spicy (mostly cinnamon)/waxy-nectarinic/aldehydic/floral accord with a futuristic darker minty-metallic vaguely surgical aura (the central part of the trip) sliding down towards a muskier/woodsier accord quite musky and drier (with a sheer sandalwood-presence). Fresh, apothecarian and vaguely dandish/exotic L'Anarchiste strikes for audacity and peculiarity. Points of olfactive connections with Ck Eternity and Givenchy Insensé but L'Anarchiste tells an its own particular orangy/minty/medicinal story. Dry down pushes up a sort orangy/woodsy vibe with dominant vetiver and hints of suede, powdery tonka and musk. Mint waves throughout around. Perfect for "white-linen" south-american seasons
04th March, 2021

Oriento by Jeroboam

Oriento strikes immediately for its dominant rosey vibe firmly rooted on a bed of spicy/musky resins. Saffron is the absolute protagonist alongside this rosey rose. Oriento is definitely well appointed but basically unoriginal. The "musky-rosey" ideal connection with Montale Black Aoud is evident but while the latter is more properly oudish, mossy and woody (with its initial hardly approachable potpourri/medicinal whiff) Oriento is gentler (though quite powerful) and much more focused on subtle spices and sophisticated fruity floral patterns (which makes sure it turning out kind of modern and more approachable with its super chic saffronish ylang-ylang's spark). The juice is profoundly resinous and amberish (a la Xerjoff Kind of Blue) on my skin (with a secret incensey undertone), overall rosey and kind of lipstick (with a super spicy/floral sophistication which renders it more suitable for a feminine taste unlike the more properly masculine Black Aoud). In particolar styrax exhales this intense balsamic/resinous "steam" (with herbal nuances) which tends to smell delicately sweet, floral and feminine. I detect similarities with scents as Dueto Parfums City Oud (for its main accord of saffron, resins, patchouli, woods and rose) and Tiziana Terenzi Ecstasy (for a quite similar olfactory backbone and for the kind of inebriating spiritual spark). Along the way sandalwood is more promiment. Dry down is extremely rosey/mossy and soapy but still retaining a floral-spicy subtlenness quite glamour and chic (and with a emerging undishernible spicy fruitiness rounding up the whole olfactory fatigue).
03rd March, 2021

Hauto by Jeroboam

Hauto is a powerfully exotic fragrance combining in a markedly sultry accord three main elements: spicy musk, tuberose and pineapple. All the rest is accessorial despite I detect citrus and a rosey whiff along the way. Tuberose in particular is redolent, "kind of almondy" and vaguely minty. I wonder if a touch of heliotrope has been included in the mix. Pineapple is amazing, "sunny", juicy and "bright" (kind of projecting its fruitiness with a long tropical jet). You can figure on mind caribbean shores, floral crowns, dance competitions and exotic coconutty cocktails. Along the way the muskiness smells more and more restrained, warm (with hints of balmy/rosey/woody resins), organic, dry spicy and unisex (while opening smells kind of properly feminine, "old-cologney" and naif with a sort of old-school and vaguely stuffy/chypre floral hesperidic blast). This fragrance finally amalgamates its sexy warmth perfectly with my skin smelling itself properly as a sort of floral organic potion (quite erotic and "tanned as a tanned perfumed skin"). A more than appropriate choice for all those artistic spirits loving shows, nocturnal spectacles, a far lands break-out, summer-resorts and sultry ambiences.
28th February, 2021 (last edited: 01st March, 2021)
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La Panthère Noir Absolu by Cartier

A dark dusty gardenia infused in to a musky/resinous carnal fruity blanket with a final woody/smoky soul. Really a dark and sultry oriental appointed for the oriental (Middle Eastern) market waving out in a smoky mysterious way. This formula adds smoky/dusty mistiness to a classic organic (landmark-La Panthére) exoticism (fruity/musky sultriness). I detect classic chypre elements and a really exotic enigmatic oudish aura. A leafy royal gardenia tames and civilizes (in a classic european way) this purely oriental steamy mélange. Muskiness is kind of warm and carnal but the general structure is wisely balanced by a western classic chypre mastery. A sort of initial soapy-spicy gardenia is quite soon embraced by a warm musky mantle which is finally nuanced by hints of smoky and dry spicy/woody resins plus cooler (lightening and balancing) fruity floral patterns. Pure oriental felíne beauty by the eminent jewelry brand and classy Cartier's craftsmanship.


25th February, 2021

Origino by Jeroboam

Origino represents my first approach with the Jeroboam's olfactory "silent" universe. Inhaling a sniff of Origino from my skin is a supremely musky experience quite sophisticated, dark and enigmatic. Burning aromatic candles and cozy salons overlooking a Venetian canal are "in the air". I have to say that this enigma is not kind of ancestral or spiritual but something significantly urban and glamour in its musky vaguely lipstick fluidy soapiness. There is a silent super chic aura all around, something smelling about museum's halls, lounge refined restaurants, tea salons and posh cultured metropolitan ambiences. I finally imagine dark rooms (inside health clubs) filled by the "elixir" aroma of aromatic candles and soaps. Opening is super spicy (pepper and nutmeg in particular) and "watered" out by hints of citrus and aromatic greens. This cool-fluidy vibe is working throughout. In a while a warmer embrace of precious woods and enigmatic musks takes the scene with its enveloping mysterious soapy/silky blanket. The evolution is not particularly laborious (as usual for super musky accords) while the final twist is more and more subtle and refined. Probably hints of vanilla or balsams are implemented in the spicy/musky recipe. I pick up finally a sort of saffronish rosey nuance in the general aromatic "ambience". Along the dry down a more fluidy/soapy/musky virile woody-aromatic vibe a la Bvlgari Blv PH (but richer and "fuller") waves its twist in the air. Origino is the initial Jeroboam's composition and the original emblem of the brand's supremely musky-urban conceptualism, something vened by quite subtle spicy nuances and a balmy woodsy warmth. Great job by Vanina Muracciole. Thumbs up.
24th February, 2021 (last edited: 03rd March, 2021)

Rosa / Rose by L'Erbolario

Violet leaves (musky, dark and presenceful in its role of co-star) and "haunting" rose mastering a musky vegetal "victorian in style" rich floral bouquet. I don't get in particular jasmine. Freesia and geranium provide structure, assertiveness, "leafiness" and hints of greenness. Incredibly well appointed fragrance for its cheap cost. Sweetness is absolutely balanced. Rose increases gradually its presence along the way. L'Erbolario Rose is a languid super-floral creation really poetic and refined (exuding a deep sense of soapy cleanliness and measured timeless class). Longevity and projection are impressive on my skin. A resolute thumbs up by me.
20th February, 2021

Silver by Louis Cardin

This Louis Cardin's creation is really "way too much". A sort of Paco Rabanne Invictus on steroids with a quite fizzy, soapy/musky and haunting relentless oversized spiciness. Really unbalanced and pungent. Silver is a leathery/musky accord bombed by citrus and spices (supported by floral pattens, geranium, jasmine??) and flanked by a marine sporty synthetic accord (with a gym-like soapy patchouli a la Badedas Noir but far spicier). Synth ambergris provides resinous dusty sweetness (really over sweet) and a manly dynamic spark (a la Prada Luna Rossa or stuffs like that). Sweetness from balmy/dusty ambergris is juxtaposed to a waving salty/floral marine accord. Dry down is bombastically musky with a shower-foam sort of sporty synth soapiness and hints of plastic leather (but the real star is again this atomic citric salty/sweet spiciness). Pass by.
14th February, 2021

Oud & Rose by S.T. Dupont

The Kain's review is exhaustive on this umpteenth Oud&Rose fragrance. All I get is a synth generic saffronish flori-oriental connection of rose and resinous musky/soapy oudh with (minimal) hints of smoke from the woods and a ghostly touch of greenness. Faint evolution, the drydown is pleasant and more subtle (with a spark of floral-spicy-woody sophistication). Kind of "Montale/Mancera" in style (I detect connections with Montale Black Aoud which is muskier and greener). Long duration on skin and more than good projection. Nothing new under the sun, dark spicy rose opening + central rosey/spicy stage with a soapy/creamy oudish-woody drydown
09th February, 2021 (last edited: 10th February, 2021)

Rose des Bois by AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo

A languid rose complemented with green/leafy woodsy elements and yes, several tea-like aspects with hints of lime and may be a jasmine's support. Opening is sharp and green like several Aqua Allegoria from Guerlain or Roger & Gallet's. I detect hints of neroli and probably petitgrain or something similar in vibe. Overall is frankly boring and pale. As the juice enters its middle and final stage I pick up hints of soothing balsams and woods supporting the starring rose. Duration is almost zero on my skin (ten minutes and all is pratically faded). Frankly a poor olfactory experience with this whashed up aromatic water on my skin.
06th February, 2021

Derring-Do for Men by Ineke

Citrus, lavender, pine, aromatic spices, ozonic elements, patch, cedarwood, dry florals and musky synthetic ambergris, we know well this type of formula. Ineke Derring Do for men opens with a typically 90's sparkling "blue" fougère angular spicy/floral/citric semi-ozonic blast a la Byblos Uomo, Aramis New West, Nautica Blue, Chopard Heaven or (partially) Creed Green Irish Tweed (actally being this kind of opening at same time not distant from the one of more contemporary creations a la Bond n.9 Wall Street or Chanel Blue edt) in order (through a fleeting floral transition) to settle finally down in to a (still "sporty but) slightly muskier-sweeter-soapier affair a la Le Beau Male or Bvlgari Blv Pour Homme. Finally the salty note is kind of acid and dirty (kind of warmly organic) and I appreciate its warm virile ambery sensuality (with a minimal hint of leather) despite originality and performances are all in all not at very top.
04th February, 2021 (last edited: 05th February, 2021)

SEPT. 21.1966 by Rundholz Parfums

Rundholtz Sept.21.1966 opens with a fresh/liquid dose of floral resins, citrus, herbal elements and fizzy pepper. This introductive phase is particularly crude, spicy, bright and aqueous (on its fresh pepper/rhubarb-sparkling accord plus herbal maté and citrus) despite you can immediately detect hints of almondy mildness, frankincense and woody resins rising up from the back in order to imprint spicy thickness and woody/musky consistency on the whole olfactory affair. In a while the real melancholic soul of this (in its intimate soul and conceptual approach) "eastern european" Berliner juice emerges with its charge of deep resins, sweet spicinnes and woods (a la Marc de la Morandiere Cozmic Oud, Les Liquides Imaginaires Fortis, Carner Barcelona - Cuirs or Acampora Nero), civilized by spicy floral notes, fluidy/hesperidic/peppery elements and subtle almondy heliotrope. The main woody/resinous accord is not particularly original but definitely well calibrated, balanced and finally "intimate". Dry down is intensely woody/spicy (in a nostalgic melancholic way) but finally rounded out by the sweetness of balsams, exotic heliotrope (in its landmark accord with resins and spices) and spices (I suppose nutmeg and cinnamon). A sandalwood heavyweight. Another introspective creation (mirroring out the brand's urban creative assertiveness) which is finally less saturnine (but equally assertive) and avantgard than the darker (and more original) 03. Apr.1968.
03rd February, 2021

Musk Rose by The Rising Phoenix Perfumery

Indian-distilled champa flower (champaca, noble and royal), rosey indolic rose and natural musk are the main elements of this visceral resinous attar affair. The Rising Phoenix Perfumery Musk Rose attar is a immensely redolent and nuclear "cosmic" musky floral aroma so deep, sensual and inexplorable. You finally end sliding down a profound aromatic chasm of radiant natural muskiness, deep "nectarinic" waxiness, arcane soapiness, softly whispered frankincense, sticky resins and rosey nostalgia. Agarwood oil enhances the general sense of waxy/apothecarian exotic soapiness. Muskiness is supreme and supremely floral. Addle floral serum (super intense) and animalic tales for us. Aphrodisiac and hounting potion. No more to be added.
01st February, 2021 (last edited: 02nd February, 2021)

Mon Paris Intensément by Yves Saint Laurent

Depressive soapy- "pinky" olfactory littleness. I detect raspberry, bulgarian rose, a vaguely tart accord (orange and peony/freesia) and musky vanilla combined in a synth soapy bath-foam like type of formula. A musky-soapy "cosmetical" juice, really overly sultry synthetic and soapy. Mon Paris Intensement opens with blackcurrant and red fruits "from the forest" fading soon into something musky-soapy and jammy-rosey with the dominant raspberry's fruity note in the middle of a musky-soapy vanilla. Frankly is depressive approaching these new generation soapy poor formulas, in the middle between jammy-bubble odours (with zero class and elegance) and bath foam-like structure (which means zero structure). Pass by.

31st January, 2021
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Valentino Uomo Born in Roma by Valentino

Valentino is the italian haute couture top brand, it is based in Roma (Piazza di Spagna the main sartorial head-quarter) and this is a fragrance created in order to celebrate the Ethernal City. The juice is not bad di per sé but is somewhat "common" and easy-going, just another simplistic piece of cedary/aromatic virile accord (woody, salty and cardamomish, a olfactory boredom overly "abused" and redundant today), not enough to enhance and represent the enormous charme of this enchanting worldwide capital (better represented by creations as Valentino Vendetta and Valentino Vendetta Pour Homme - classy, austere, superb, decadent). Valentino Uomo Born in Roma is a decently appointed nowadays mainstream woody/salty/aromatic fragrance based on a main synth salty/cedary/peppery vetiver-theme (with hints of smokiness and aromatic greens) and retracing the aromatic trends orienting the formulas of many previous or following (anyway contemporary) olfactory appointments as the following Boss Bottles Eau de parfum (equally salty but sweeter on spices and earthier), Bottega Verde Nero d'Ambra (equally salty/mineral/woody/aromatic), Azzaro Wanted and many other recent releases. The juice is focused on fresh woody notes surrounded by aromatic spices (ginger and cardamom), hints of acid fruit (green apple), sage and mineral saltiness (a well known recent olfactory twist - woods-cool spices-mineral saltiness). The aroma is virile, spicy-salty-woody, dynamic and elegant, quite urban and perfectly suitable for warmer climates. While longevity is more than good on my skin the projection is in the average.
30th January, 2021

Halston Z-14 by Halston

Halston Z-14 is a darkly virile herbal fougère (along its run longly bitter/hesperific and darkly mossy a la Ferrè Pontaccio 21 which is a darker and more "acrid/bitter" beast). Virile, powerful and crisply herbal this is a cypress-centered glorious spicy/exotic juice with stout bergamot and mossy patchouli and a softer leathery/mossy/cedary sharper base quite balanced and serious. The powerful opening is focused on citrus, culinary vegetables/weeds and fresh spices which gradually, through a central stiffly spicy-floral (mostly geranium)/rooty/smoky phase, open the doors to a mossier/woodier "forest-stage" with leathery/cedary accents (laced with milder spices) which is well balanced and more restrained. There is a slightly medicinal/rubbery/smoky (but never intrusive) herbal bitterness around. Mild spices (cinnamon and cloves) and aromatic spices (coriander as perfectly connected with the herbal/boisé elements) are masterfully laced eachother and connected with the rest of the woodsy elements. This final phase is rich of earthy patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum, citrus and green/herbal notes, overall well balanced, mossy and restrained (in a classic boisé powerhouse way) but soothed and harmonized by hints of tonka. A complex fragrance with a slightly "powerhouse" crisp soul anyway rich of soothing and civilizing boisé/soapy elements. As for the assumed resemblance with Tom Ford Italian Cypress I'd say Z-14 is more complex in its articulation of spices, leather and woody elements while Italian Cypress smelling more properly minty boisé (and more strictly focused on the main coniferous/aromatic note of cypress) on my skin. As for the assumed resemblance with Valentino Vendetta Pour Homme I definitely prefer the great Vendetta on Z-14. Vendetta is more aldehydic, aristocratic and stronger on leather, lavender, resins and sweet spices while Z-14 is wilder and more focused on the note of cypress, the moss and the aromatic spices (coriander), anyway there is a common moody forest-vibe but Vendetta is more sophisticated and "palatine", less woodsy and more properly baroque, kind of "liquorous" (in a semi-oriental way) and decadent.

29th January, 2021

Splendida Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

At first sniff I detect for a while olfactory connections with the great Costume National Scent Intense (in particular on the main - kind of suedish - dark synth patchouli/cashmeran/sambac jasmine/amber-accord) and definitely with the original silky Jasmine Noir (on the main floral chord - sambac jasmine and gardenia - rooted on a silky almondy base of tonka beans and warm cashmeran). Splendida smells muskier (due to cashmeran), warmer and sultrier than the original (more balanced and softly licoricey) Jasmine Noir 2008, in a way I get a more marked resemblance with scents a la Eliee Saab Le Parfum (warm, somewhat cloying and unwearable during the hot seasons of the year). I tend to find the note of cashmeran overly sultry/musky for my "brighter" mediterranean taste, anyway Splendida is after all well appointed by Sophie Labbé and smells sensual, creamy/soapy/suedish and feminine. Better enhanced whether worn along cold seasons and in frosty climates.
28th January, 2021 (last edited: 29th January, 2021)

Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc by Bulgari

Eau Parfumée au Thé Blanc is
a simply perfect accord of light spices, green tea, soapy balsams and white musk. The latter is dreamy and ethereal (kind of victorian, as in a Doris Lessing romance), dominant on the side of a white tea-accord (tea note and soapy resins). A "white linen kind of" fragrance of left back languid english afternoons around the gardens of a royal court, a scent of far southern summers, rich of nostalgia and enchantment. A Jacques Cavallier's sleight of hand for Bvlgari Roma.
27th January, 2021

Sauvage Parfum by Christian Dior

To my nose Dior Sauvage is a pleasant boisterous piece of sport virility full of aromatic/soapy/woody/leafy/herbal synth dynamism but lacking a real spark of class and elegance. Same speech for this even soapier Parfum-version (turned soapier by a enhanced dosage of tonka bean I suppose), which is stronger on the sporty side (I still detect fizzy hesperides, soapy "shower foam like" lavender, pepper, sporty soapy patchouli and ambroxan). The dominant floral note it seems I detect is dry geranium well combined with pepper, acid citrus, lavender and woody ambroxan. Dry down is still "pungent" on spicy fizziness, shower-like sporty soapiness and final woody/"ambroxy" peppery virility. This is finally a likealable "metro-boy" fragrance and not a distinctive aroma under my profane nose.
25th January, 2021

Asja by Fendi

Another olfactory lush giant from the italian maison Fendi Roma (after the unsurpassed Fendi by Fendi). Asja is a sumptuous fruity spicy-oriental rich of palatin Roman class and exotic mystery. Scenarios from La grande bellezza jump immediately on mind by smelling this aristocratic fragrance (atmospheres of luxuriant "Palatin" Roman "decadence " costellated by sweet candles, frescos, bronze armors, chiselled pots, cardinalates, massive frames, bas-reliefs and tapestries). This exotic oriental a la Ysl Opium/Estee Lauder Cinnabar is focused on a central intricate accord of ripe fruit, floral notes, vanillic muskiness and spicy amber. Opening is super spicy and fruity with its intoxicating blast of peachy plumminess, red fruits from the forest, hesperides and cinnamon (in a while quite lush and mysterious). As the evolution enters its central stage a complex bouquet of floral patterns takes the scene with its 70's/80's honeyed elixir-effect a la Ysl Opium but with a vague viney-liquorous ripe "new" vibe in the air. In particular a fruity floral spicy (mostly cinnamon and cloves in a final phase) connection of redberries, apricot and orchid provide a decisive sultry twist in a middle way between scents a la Cacharel Eden and more aristocratic creations a la Fendi by Fendi, Ungaro Diva or Coco Chanel. Anyway, a more properly bitter floral note of carnation affords a sort of more mature "accomplisced" green/leafy balance on this spicy-fruity "crudeness". Dry down is basically oriented on a "Lutenesque" incensey-honeyed amber/patchouli accord well calibrated and more "restrained" over the initial fruity/spicy tornado. In particular the note of patchouli lords on a base of musk, honeyed amber, cloves and sandalwood (quite austere, dry-spicy and "asian"). A classic unfortunately discontinued italian spicy-oriental which is witness of a disappeared "posh/manneristic" italian high class and distinction.
23rd January, 2021 (last edited: 26th January, 2021)

Marbert Man by Marbert

A crisp/leathery spicy aromatic fougère conjuring me masterworks of olfactory perfection a la Guerlain Derby and Aramis by Aramis. Yes old-fashioned and retrò in style with the initial aldehydic blast of basil and lavender, a central rooty/angular virile heart of ambergris, tobacco and green rootiness a la Quorum and with a soapy leathery final accord of moss and stout leather. A fragrance exuding class, "orthodox" manliness and assertiveness, with well calibrated floral accents (mostly a super dry-leafy geranium), hints of greenness and a final super-virile touch of leather and ambergris. An old-school fragrance for a conservative well tailored over 50 man with a passion for leatherwears.
14th January, 2021

Armani Code Profumo by Giorgio Armani

Powdery tonka, hints of aromatic lavender and spicy (somewhat peppery-cinnamonic) amber provide a piquant "dusty" masculine trait while a sort of citric caramellous fruitinness elicits that sort of bubblegum sweetness of which several reviewers are talking about. Drydown smells slightly powdery/sugary (with a synth mandarine-tone) with hints of kind of "pencil-shavings" woods, vanilla and leather. Strong longevity and projection on my skin. A dynamic modern juice which could work either as signature office choice or as a night out olfactory solution. Yes, an exceedingly synthetic laboratory-creation, finally somewhat linear and in line with many spicy/sweet woody-leathery modern creations (Mont Blanc Legend Night or CH Men Privé Carolina Herrera to quote several).
09th January, 2021 (last edited: 10th January, 2021)

Fougère L'Aube by Rogue Perfumery

Rogue Fougère L'Aube is a new appreciable alchemy issued by this american niche lab and a real jump back in to a glorious "barber-shop" past under my vulgar nose. I agree with drseid that this fragrance is a fine example of what a traditional aromatic fougère should smell like (a modern example of the "real deal"), due to the effort of this artisanal perfume house refusing (likewise few others) to comply with the penalizing IFRA guidelines which have finally almost killed and depersonalized the historical olfactory categories. Since the first minutes after the application on skin several classic herbal fougére creations as Trophee Lancome and Trussardi Action Uomo jump more than vaguely on mind with their "legacy" of dry floral notes, aromatic lavender, grass, piquant spices, galbanum, coumarine, juniper berries and moss. I perceive by soon (in the top stage) a certain aromatic/citric grassy piquancy under my profane nose, probably provided by dry/aromatic spicy notes, which are slightly hesperidic (lime, coumarine and bergamot) and quite grassy-minty (fern, mint, angelica?). The grassy notes are vivid, vibrant, vaguely coniferous, kind of "minty/balsamic", lymphatic and definitely aromatic (conjuring the cool "early morning air" on the high mountains). In particular hay, galbanum, petitgrain and camphor produce a dominant sort of bitter/peppery, grassy/resinous, woody/paper and mossy/camphoraceous dryness all around (conjuring me several more recent Testa Maura-creations as Carticasi and Mia Murzia as well), quite notable in the general grassy/leafy atmosphere. The latter is the mossy "field" on which a dry piquant floral tandem (rose/geranium?) at one point settles its roots in the real core of the olfactory performance. As the composition enters its final basic stage than notes as oakmoss, coniferous resins, woods and galbanum (supported by hay, coumarine and grassy aromatic notes) finally cast down the woodsy vivid ambience of this olfactory "silvan" creation. Dry down is somewhat linear, still bitter/peppery, basically mossy-resinous (cistus/labdanum), dry/leafy-floral and definitely grassy. Projection is medium while longevity is above average on my skin. In conclusion Fougère L'Aube could not be defined a real crack but is definitely a more the dignified contemporary "reproduction" of the classic fougère structure by a wise assemblation (in line with a glorious herbal aromatic past) of high quality raw materials and natural ingredients.
13th December, 2020 (last edited: 14th December, 2020)

Tiffany & Co by Tiffany

A translucent aqueous/aquatic calonic super sharp musky eau de parfum by Tiffany&Co, something in the middle between Elisazeth Taylor Love and White Diamonds, Laura by Laura Biagiotti, Chanel Eau Tendre, Reminiscence Rem, Malone Lime, Basil & Mandarin and L'Erbolario Fiore dell'Onda, with a tad of J'adore. There is an extreme acid/metallic aqueous floral sharpness in the general musky atmosphere. All the elements smell kind of pure, classy-chic and transparent in a sort of "enchanted pond-like" fairy ambience. The citric tartness is kind of melancholic and nostalgic while muskiness is finally moody, peppery and slightly green. The floral presence of iris is decidedly sharp, citric, peachy and vaguely acid, with a moody final touch from patchouli, blackcurrant and woodsy elements. A tad of grapefruit? Vague aquatic synth patterns? Lilac, peony? It seems the perfumer Daniela Andrier has been inspired by her passion for the universe of jewelry and precious stones in order to create this "classic in class" modern well-blended fragrance. Well crafted but not original. My medium rating is focused on the general measure and the olfactory musky balance.

P.S: along the late dry down the juice improves and I detect a more "pronounced" blackcurrant-presence, a tad of soothing balsam and a darker floral presence (moody iris and something conjuring me lily of the valley).
08th December, 2020 (last edited: 09th December, 2020)

Ferrari Red Power by Ferrari

Really warm, sporty-classic, piquant and masculine (yet casual and "commonplace"). Opening is "lavender-aromatic" and fizzy hesperidic with lot of cardamom. Bombastically sporty- powerhouse in a modern acceptation. I perceive orange and bergamot in a stout connection. The floral transition is fleeting, severe and dry. Dry down: pungent citrus, "sweaty smell of man" (warm, woody, dry, kind of organic), pepper (in huge amount), harsh "burnt" cedarwood and warm synth musky virile ambergris. One of the most masculine and versatile scents I know. A fragrance for a dynamic yet fancy urban fellow.
05th December, 2020

Boss Bottled Eau de Parfum by Hugo Boss

An Armani Code Profumo/Ysl La Nuit de l'Homme-first cousin and a change in direction if compared with the original (and greater) Boss Bottled EDT formula. A dry fruity opening (in which you could detect the acid/sweet twist from green apple) supported by a huge dose of cardamom and peppery sweet spices (cinnamon/nutmeg) morphing gradually down towards a warmer/earthier woody base really spicy/rooty, with a hint of not listed leather and something kinda nutty (walnuts?). A huge amount of spicy cedarwood (cinnamon/nutmeg) and cardamom are dominant under my profane nose. Boss Bottled Parfum is a woody-spicy masculine fragrance. While the original Boss Bottled edt formula was a more balanced lighter aromatic classic with a lighter woodiness provided by olivewood and a final semi-oriental touch (a brighter fragrance more marked by aromatics, dry floral notes, a softer spiciness and by a soothing final vanillic touch) this Parfum version is drier, dustier, woodier and spicier with no floral frills, much more "pepper", a tiny touch of resins and leather and a stouter piquant woody (vaguely pencil shaving) feel slightly conjuring me up smokier/more somber scents a la Montana Graphite, Gucci Pour Homme I or De Balmain Carbone.
29th November, 2020 (last edited: 30th January, 2021)

Rumz al Rasasi 9325 pour lui by Rasasi

A vibrant and zesty peppery/citric/exotic opening evolving into a sort of Aventus-like final mix of woodsy resinous cedarwood, smoky suede and musky synth ambergris. Actually Rumz Al Rasasi 9325 Pour Lui opens energically on fresh/spicy pineapple and lime and (passing through a dry floral transition) settles down to a mix of fir, lemon (throughout present and heady), cedarwood, fir, leather and synth ambergris. This Al Rasasi fragrance is labelled in terms of cheap Aventus-variant/clone along side with scents as Al Maknoon Silver, Armaf Club de Nuit Intense Man and Vibrant Leather by Zara. Rumz is really close to Aventus but smells fruitier, stronger on lime and hesperidic acid bitterness, less prominent on juicy pineapple (in here smelling drier and no way "ripe"), less smoky and basically softer on my skin (with a less powerful sillage if compared to Aventus). If you can't handle with the "boisterous" Aventus-smokiness (especially the one in some batches of Aventus) than this fragrance could be a valid inexpensive alternative. Lemon is prominent on pineapple (and throughout) and the fruitiness is slightly less peppery. Also in here the smokiness is heady but in a more "balanced" way while the zesty/musky fruitiness (with vague ozonic elements) is the real protagonist of the olfactory performance. Dry down is definitely close to Aventus (especially to several of its batches) and Armaf Club de Nuit but smoother, more lemony, fresher and softer on suede, spiciness, rootiness and smokiness. Performances in general are more than satisfactory. Better to be worn in sultry/humid/exotic climates, tanned skin, unbuttoned shirt, hair pulled back with gel, shiny leather shoes, rugged southern accent. Applied it sparingly on skin, it's powerful.







25th November, 2020 (last edited: 27th November, 2020)

Vulcano L.E. by Urban Scents

Urban Scents Vulcano unveils by soon its vivid rural nature founded on the juxtaposition betweed two diverse elements and their two different olfactory effects. Fresh citrus and burnt/turpentinic woods merge their different natures (fizzy/bracing on one side and smoky/arid on the other one) in order to exude a new weird artistic and bizarre aroma (vaguely fizzy/rubbery, quite particular and intriguing). This perfume conjures me vaguely a "smell from my childhood" (flash back from countryside) exuded by burning peels of orange or mandarine which old people used to torch in order to use it as insects/bugs repellent and air fresheners inside the old country houses and cottages (with the smell of burnt woods in the meanwhile penetrating from outside or from the fireplace). Opening is immediately (for a few seconds) zesty/acid and green (as the aroma of green peels of oranges or mandarines) but in a while it materializes a transition towards a sort of kind of rubbery/smoky effect elicited by burnt woods. Gradually the hesperidic fizziness recedes (but not at all, still leaving its aroma in the air) in order to leave the scene to a drier and smokier woody vibe (kind of burnt, toasted, steamy and vaguely sulphureous). An atmosphere more than a properly accomplisced olfactory alchemy. Really evocative and kind of mystic juice.
21st November, 2020

Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery

Yes, definitely a ambery incensey aromatic forest smell in the same league as Lutens Fille en Aiguilles or to a certain extent Armani Onde Mystere. Grassy resinous frankincense (coniferous resins, dry berries from the forest?), redolent floral leaves, moss and myrrh are the main actors of this "coniferous/stuffy" olfactory fatigue by Rogue. Opening features a bright accord of citrus, aromatics and frankincense supported by cool forest resins and juniper. The note of frankincense smells vaguely barber-shop, mossy-aromatic and kind of "vintage chyprey". In a while, as the composition enters in its central stage, the sweet side of the juice takes off and I get benzoin, spicy/sugary resins and dry floral patterns before the aroma starts developing towards a final drier (still sweet and resinous) woody base in which I detect burnt spices, intense floral notes (lily, jasmine as well?), dry woods, dry leaves (tobacco?) and musk. Ishtar (under my nose) is basically a modern neo-vintage aromatic mild-resinous gentleman’s fragrance with spicy/floral/resinous elements and a "stuffy" chypre undertone ready to unveil its hidden spark. Juniper, citrus and lily (especially in the top stage) support frankincense in order it to turn out bright, soapy, aromatic and lively while benzoin and myrrh afford a sort of oriental soul which (as connected with sandalwood, hesperides, stuffy moss/forest resins and dry leaves) unveil a sort of stuffy/camphoraceous/musky undertone (vaguely a la Acampora Musc). A well blended flory-oriental composition for all the lovers of "gentlemen" sweet dry-mossy olfactory creations.



14th November, 2020 (last edited: 15th November, 2020)

Paradise Found Eau de Parfum for Women by Roberto Cavalli

Cavalli Paradise Found opens with a sort of sophisticated and spicy fruity/exotic twist which is marked on jasmine, neroli and undiscerned exotic patterns (kind of juicy, peppery, fruity and fizzy). The green-floral note of frangipani enhances the general exotic (kind of tropical) vibe. I detect the piquant contribution from pink pepper and probably nutmeg which connect themself to a sort of mellow creamy sensual "basic" sandalwood (which is the main theme of this synth fluity/floral mélange). It seems to detect something like peony or magnolia (providing a tad of floral/leafy tartness) which are anyway here not listed. I detect a really vague "icy/synth/peppery" floral twist slightly conjuring scents a la Givenchy Very Irresistible. I have no references about palm leaf's assumedly exotic smell. In a nutshell the juice is endly modern-chic and vaguely "tropical" in style but I find it finally too flat and poor on its structure.
08th November, 2020

Bottega Veneta Illusione for Him by Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta Illusione for him is a well blended neo-classic woodsy combination of hesperides, cardamom, cedarwood and vetiver. This creation is classy and harmonious with a plain "italian sartorial well-tailored" twist. The composition (once the top notes get fading their initial impact) is subtle and modern (unveiling a sort of apparent tea-like vibe mostly provided by cardamom) despite the main accord tends to retrace classic routes and balances. I see points of sharing with Cartier Declaration which smells spicier and less strong on bitter orange and cedarwood under my fallible nose. Along the way (mostly in the middle stage of developement) the combination of rootiness, hesperides, woodsy elements, "dampness from the forest", piquant spices and cedarwood conjures me significantly the rootier, woodier, wildier and stouter (less tamed by balsams) Terre d'Hermes as well. Opening is a spicy blast of bitter hesperides, green elements and piquant spices. I detect by soon a measured aromatic vibe based on woodsy coniferous elements and a notable presence of rooty vetiver. Along dry down cedarwood (enhancing gradually its strenght) smells dominant (lording) on vetiver and tends to wave around gradually soothed by balsams and tonka. Overall the final effect is satisfactory due its sheer dose of elegance, measure and urban minimalism. Very elegant bottle. A solid italian composition.
05th November, 2020